By  courtesy  of  the  Outing  Publishing   Co. 

AN    ADIRONDACK    CARRY 


HARPER'S 
CAMPING  AND  SCOUTING 

AN  OUTDOOR  GUIDE  FOR  AMERICAN  BOYS 


CONSULTING   EDITORS 

GEORGE    BIRD    GRINNELL 

EDITOR    "FOREST   AND   STREAM" 

DR.    EUGENE    L.    SWAN 


DIRECTOR   PINE  ISLAND  CAMP,    ETC. 


ILLUSTRATED 


HARPER  <5?  BROTHERS   PUBLISHERS 

NEW    YORK    AND    LONDON 
MCMX 


Harper's  Practical  Books  for  Boys 


A  SERIES  OF  NEW  HANDY -BOOKS  FOR  HOYS 


HARPER'S  CAMPING  AND  SCOUTING 

An  Outdoor  Book  for  American  Boys.  Consult- 
ing Editors,  George  Bird  Grinnell,  Editor  '"'  Forest 
and  Stream  ";  Dr.  Eugene  L.  Swan,  Director  Pine 
Island  Camp,  etc. 

HARPER'S  ELECTRICITY  BOOK  FOR  BOYS 

Written  and  Illustrated  by  Joseph  H.  Adams.  With 
a  General  Chapter  by  Joseph  B.  Baker,  and  a 
Dictionary  ot  Electrical  Terms. 

HARPER'S    HOW    TO    UNDERSTAND     ELEC- 
TRICAL WORK 

By  William  H.  Onken,  Jr.,  and  Joseph  B.  Baker. 

HARPER'S  OUTDOOR  BOOK  FOR  BOYS 

By  Joseph  H.  Adams  and  others 

HARPER'S  INDOOR  BOOK  FOR  BOYS 

By  Joseph  H.  Adams  and  others. 

HARPER'S  MACHINERY  BOOK  FOR  BOYS 
By  Joseph  H.  Adams. 

HARPER'S  HANDY  BOOK  FOR  GIRLS 

Edited  by  Anna  Parmly  Paret. 

THE  STORY  OF  GREAT  INVENTIONS 

By  Elmer  Ellsworth  Burns. 

Each  I'olumt  fully  illustrated  from  pjiotf graphs,  drawings, 

and  dia&*af>ifT.       Unfforln  • ;'«  ptxe   and   appearance. 

CrowttSSfOf  Cloth.  fjfi&Sfft&fXc&t  "  The  Story 

of  Great   Invetiliotfs^  which   is  $1.25. 


NEW  YORK 


PUBLISHED    MA 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

PREFACE.     By  Eugene  L.  Swan,  M.D xi 

INTRODUCTION xiii 

Part    I 
THE  CAMPER'S  OPPORTUNITIES 

CHAPTER  L— WHERE  TO  CAMP.     By  James  Wellman    ...   -      3 
CAMPING   NEAR  HOME — CAMPING   IN   MAINE — CANADA — THE 
ADIRONDACK^ — WEST  AND  SOUTH 

CHAPTER    II.— INDIAN    CAMPS   AT   HOME.     By   Joseph   H. 

Adams n 

Joint  Author  of  Harper's  Outdoor  Book  for  Boys,  etc. 
A  WIGWAM — A  SQUARE  TEPEE — A  RIDGE-POLE  TEPEE 

CHAPTER    III.— TREE    HUTS    AND    BRUSH-HOUSES.      By 

Joseph  H.  Adams 18 

A  Low  TWIN-TREE  HUT — A  HIGH  TWIN-TREE  HUT — A 
SINGLE-TREE  HUT — A  Low  SINGLE-TREE  HUT — A  BRUSH- 
HOUSE — A  BRUSH  "LEAN-TO" 

Part   II 

CAMPING  FARTHER  AFIELD 

By  Joseph  H.  Adams 
(With  the  exception  of  the  first  chapter) 

CHAPTER  IV.— CHOOSING  A  CAMP-SITE 39 

PERSONAL  OUTFIT — CAMPS  ON  LAKES — RIVER  CRUISING — - 
COOKING  UTENSILS — PROVISION  SUPPLY 

V 


255427 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  V.— TENTS  AND  TENT-MAKING 49 

A  TENT  OF  MEDIUM  SIZE — A  LARGE  CAMPING-TENT — FLIES 
AND  CANOPIES — A  HOUSE-TENT — THE  NEW  TENT 

CHAPTER  VI.— HOW  TO  FIT  OUT  THE  CAMP 65 

CANVAS  COTS  AND  HAMMOCKS — TABLES  AND  BENCHES — 
CAMPING  EQUIPMENT — LOCKERS  AND  MESS-KITS 

CHAPTER  VII.— CAMP-FIRES  AND  SIMPLE  COOKING    .     .       75 
STONE    STOVES — OTHER   FIREPLACES — CAMP-COOKING — 
"UNCLE  HARRY'S"  ADVICE 

CHAPTER  VIII.— FISHING  RODS  AND  TACKLE      ....       87 
SPORTSMANLIKE   FISHING — CARE   AND   PATIENCE — TACKLE — 
THE  CHOICE  OF  RODS — LINES  AND  HOOKS — OTHER  TACKLE 
— BAIT-RODS  AND  FLY-RODS 

CHAPTER  IX.— FISHING  WITH  BAIT 98 

A  SEINE  NET — A  BAIT-BOAT — BAITS,  AND  WHERE  TO  FIND 
THEM — A  TRAP  FOR  SMALL  FISH — A  WATER-TURTLE  TRAP 
— AN  EEL-POT — A  SCAP-NET — A  HOOP  DROP-NET 

Part    III 
FLY-FISHING  AND  WILDERNESS   CAMPING 

CHAPTER  X.— HOW  TO  LEARN  FLY-FISHING.     By  Henry 

P.  Wells 117 

Author  of  Fly-rods  and  Fly-tackle,  The  American 

Salmon  Fisherman,  etc. 

PRACTICE  AT  HOME — FIRST  POSITION — THE  BACK  CAST — 
THE  FORWARD  CAST — THE  STRIKE — A  CARDINAL  PRINCIPLE 
— THE  MANIPULATION  OF  THE  FLY — PRACTICAL  CONCLUSION 
— A  FISH  STORY 

CHAPTER  XL— REPAIRS.     By  Henry  P.   Wells 143 

FIRST  PRINCIPLES — THE  INVISIBLE  KNOT — APPLYING  THE 
LESSONS — THE  ANGLER  AND  THE  NOVICE 

CHAPTER  XII.— WILDERNESS  CAMPS  AND  FISHING.     By 

James  Wellman 165 

HINTS  FOR  A  LONG  TRIP — A  FEW  OUTFITTING  POINTS — 
PERSONAL  BELONGINGS — THE  VEXED  QUESTION  OF  GUIDES 
— INSECT  PESTS — WARNINGS  FOR  CAMPERS — CARE  OF  FIRES — 

vi 


CONTENTS 


SOME  FAMILIAR  FISH — BROOK  TROUT — LAKE  TROUT — BLACK 

BASS MUSKALLUNGE PlCKEREL YELLOW  PERCH BURBOT 

OR  CUSK — THE  LEAPING  OUANANICHE 

Part   IV 

ORGANIZED  CAMPS 

By  Eugene  L.  Swan,  M.D. 

CHAPTER  XIII.— THE   GROWTH   OF   ORGANIZED  CAMPS     183 
THE    MOVEMENT    TOWARD    OUTDOOR    LIFE — UNUSUAL    OP- 
PORTUNITIES   FOR    BOYS'    CAMPS — FAMILY    CAMPS — ORGAN- 
IZED CAMPS — ORIGIN — OBJECTS  OF  BOYS'  CAMPS 

CHAPTER  XIV.— HOW  TO  CONDUCT  A  CAMP 189 

TRAINED  DIRECTORS — THE  PROFESSION  OF  CONDUCTING  A 
BOYS'  CAMP — SANITATION — DIETETICS — BOYS'  GROWTH 
— LOCATION  OF  THE  CAMP — PHYSICIAN — SURROUNDINGS — 
SOIL  —  MOSQUITOES  —  PRIVACY  —  TENT  -  PLACING  —  TENT 
MATERIAL — To  ERECT  A  TENT — TENT  POLES — FLOORS  — 
FLOOR  BOUGHS — A  WIGWAM  OR  TEPEE  IN  THE  WOODS — 
SIBLEY  TENTS 

CHAPTER  XV.— THE  BILL   OF  FARE 209 

FOOD  FOR  CANOE  TRIPS — BEVERAGES — POINTERS — RECIPES 
FROM  SOUP  TO  DESSERT — PRACTICAL  HINTS 

CHAPTER  XVL— KEEPING  A  CAMP  CLEAN 228 

CARE  OF  KITCHENS  AND  FOOD — COOKS — LATRINES — LAUNDRY 
AND  CLEAN  CLOTHES — POLICING  CAMPS — TENT  HYGIENE 

CHAPTER  XVII.— HOW  TO   USE  A  CANOE 234 

CANOES  AND  THEIR  COST — REPAIRING  A  CANOE — How  TO 
PADDLE — EQUIPMENT — LOADING — ROUGH  WATER 

CHAPTER  XVIII.— MAKING  A  TEMPORARY  CAMP     ...     244 
UNPACKING — GETTING  FIREWOOD — ARRANGEMENT  OF  COOK- 
ING   DISHES — BUILDING    FIRES — MAKING    FIRES     WITHOUT 
MATCHES — WOODS — BUILDING    FIRES    IN    THE    RAIN  —  To 
LIGHT  THE  FIRE — CAMP  STOVES 

CHAPTER  XIX.— HIKING  OR  TRAMPING 254 

DISTANCE  TO  MARCH — GENERAL  RULES — CLOTHING — OTHER 
EQUIPMENTS — DRINKING-WATER — FOOD — HOURS  OF  REST 

Vii 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  XX.— CAMP  OR  SCOUTING  GAMES 226 

OUTDOOR  GAMES — WAR  GAME  No.  i — THE  BESIEGED  CITY 
GAME — ATTACKING  PARTY  IN  CANOES — ENSAI-TAI  PARTIES 
— CANOE  TAG — CAPTURING  THE  FLAG — INDIAN  GAMES — MAP- 
MAKING — FEET  AND  INCHES — HELPFULNESS  AND  COURTESY — 
SHOOTING  THE  CHUTE — SEEING  AND  REMEMBERING — IDENTIFI- 
CATION— WIND-BALL 

CHAPTER  XXI.— THE  HANDLING  OF  BOATS 280 

CAMP  LIFE  ON  THE  WATER — NECESSARY  KNOWLEDGE — RULES 
OF  THE  ROAD — NAUTICAL  TERMS — MANAGING  SAILS — PRU- 
DENCE AND  CARE — POWER-BOATS — CAMP-YACHTS — NAUTICAL 
SCHOOLS 

CHAPTER  XXII.— IN  CASE  OF  ILLNESS  OR  ACCIDENT  .  287 
TREATMENT  OF  WOUNDS — How  TO  STOP  BLEEDING — DRESS- 
ING WOUNDS — SIMPLE  AND  COMPOUND  FRACTURES — DISLO- 
CATIONS —  SPRAINS  —  DROWNING  —  ARTIFICIAL  RESPIRA- 
TION —  UNCONSCIOUSNESS  --  FAINTING  —  SUNSTROKE  — 
POISONING — MEDICAL  AND  HEALTH  HINTS 


Part   V 
BOY  SCOUTS 

CHAPTER  XXIII.— THE  BOY  SCOUTS  OF  ENGLAND.     By 

Sydney  Brooks 301 

ORGANIZING  THE  BOY  SCOUTS — THE  ENGLISH  SCOUTS'  OATH 
— THE  SCOUT  LAW  IN  ENGLAND — PATROLS  AND  TROOPS — 
TESTS — BADGES 

CHAPTER   XXIV.— THE    BOY   SCOUTS   OF   AMERICA.     By 

John  L.  Alexander .....311 

Acting  Managing  Secretary  of  The  Boy  Scouts  of 

America 

BEGINNING  AND  GROWTH — LEADERS  OF  THE  MOVEMENT — 
WHAT  A  BOY  MUST  Do  TO  BELONG — THE  SCOUT  LAW 

CHAPTER   XXV.— TRAINING   IN    SEEING   CLEARLY.      By 

Eugene  L.  Swan,  M.D 320 

KEEP  YOUR  EYES  OPEN — REMEMBER  WHAT  You  SEE — 
WEATHER  SIGNALS — PROVERBS  ABOUT  THE  WEATHER — 
BIRDS,  FLOWERS,  AND  TREES 

viii 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XXVI.— HINTS  FOR  CAMPERS  AND  SCOUTS.     By 

Eugene  L.  Swan,  M.D 329 

MEASURING  A  TREE'S  HEIGHT — APPROACH  OF  AN  ENEMY — 
TRAILING — FOOTPRINTS — TALKING  WITHOUT  WORDS — WHEN 
LOST  IN  THE  WOODS — DETERMINING  DIRECTIONS 

CHAPTER  XXVII.— SIGNALLING   AND    SIGN    LANGUAGE. 

By  James   Wellman ,     .     342 

THE  MORSE  ALPHABET — OTHER  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION — 
SIGN  LANGUAGE  AMONG  THE  INDIANS — EXAMPLES  FOR  PRAC- 
TICE— WIGWAGGING,  ETC. 

Part    VI 
MOUNTAINEERING   AS  A  SPORT 

By  Garrett  P.  Serviss 
Author  of  Round  the  Year  With  the  Stars,  etc. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.— MOUNTAINEERING  AS  A  SPORT   .     .     351 
IN  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS — AN  ADIRONDACK  ADVENTURE — 
MT.  TACOMA  OR  RAINIER — IN  A  WONDERFUL  FOREST — MID- 
SUMMER SNOWBANKS — THE  HEALTH-GIVING  MOUNTAINS 


Part   VII 
OUTDOOR  LIFE   FOR   GIRLS 

CHAPTER    XXIX.— CAMPING    FOR    GIRLS.     By  Miss  Marie 

J.   Warren 367 

A  DAY'S  PROGRAM — WORK  AND  PLAY — THE  REST -HOUR — 
TAPS — VARIETY  OF  AMUSEMENTS — CAMPING  TRIPS — OUTFIT 
— How  TO  CHOOSE  A  CAMP — COUNSELLORS — ADVANTAGES  OF 
THE  LIFE 

CHAPTER    XXX.— A    CARAVAN    TRIP    IN    ENGLAND.     By 

G.  Phillips        382 

PRINCE  AND  THE  WAGON — THE  START  FROM  BATH — MAKING 
CAMP — A  STRENUOUS  LIFE — SIGHT-SEEING — REST  IN  A  TURN- 
*  PIKE  HOUSE — AFTER  Two  HUNDRED  MILES 

INDEX.     ..,,,,, 395 

ix 


PREFACE 

HAVE  you  ever  sat  in  the  saddle  from  dawn  until  dark, 
and  watched  your  pony  pick  his  steps  up  steeps  where 
a  goat  would  have  difficulty,  and  where  the  trail  winds  about, 
a  foot  or  so  wide,  dropping  sheer  a  thousand  feet  on  one  side, 
and  rising  to  the  white  floating  clouds  on  the  other? 

Have  you  ever  paddled  a  canoe  up  a  winding  river,  where 
the  alders  and  birches  form  a  protecting  arch  that  let  in 
delicious  glimpses  of  blue  upon  you  ?  Have  you  ever  pad- 
dled noiselessly  along  shore  where  the  rushes  nod  and 
whisper,  to  find,  on  suddenly  rounding  some  point,  the  full 
moon  climbing  over  the  hill,  and  where — your  breath  ceasing 
for  a  moment — daintily  comes  a  deer  to  drink,  antlers  and 
body  black  against  the  light  ? 

Possibly  you  know  the  lure  of  the  sea,  and  love  the  sting- 
ing beat  of  the  salt  spray  crusting  your  face  and  lips.  Have 
you  ever  sat  all  day  on  the  rail  of  a  dancing  sloop,  and  beat  to 
windward,  your  lee  rail  awash,  and  then  come  to  anchor  in 
your  safe  harbor,  hung  out  your  riding  light,  and  sat  down 
to  a  meal  that  a  king  might  envy?  You  sit  back  in  lazy 
contentment,  listening  to  the  water  lapping  about  the  bows, 
the  slap  of  the  halyards  against  the  mast,  the  cry  of  some 
distant  water  fowl,  and  you  feel  good  all  through, 

xi 


PREFACE 


Did  you  say  that  you  have  not  the  means  or  the  time  to 
do  such  things,  or  that  you  do  not  know  where  to  go  or  how 
to  go  about?  Nonsense.  There  are  places  within  twenty- 
five  miles  of  New  York  where  you  can  pitch  your  tent  and 
watch  the  sun  go  down  across  wide  stretches  of  woodland 
and  water  that  will  make  you  think  you  are  a  hundred  miles 
from  any  city. 

There  are  white  tents  under  the  Palisades,  where,  under 
canvas,  many  are  gaining  health.  There  are  good  cruises 
and  sailing  in  the  wonderful  waterways  around  New  York. 
The  Sound,  the  river,  and  the  great  bays  on  the  south  shore 
of  Long  Island,  all  offer  pleasant  and  varied  experience. 
The  highways  to  Sleepy  Hollow,  to  the  land  of  Rip  Van 
Winkle,  and  the  sleepy  Dutch  towns  extend  their  invitation 
to  all  who  will  accept. 

Young  man,  get  out  into  the  open.  The  world  demands 
strength  and  staying  qualities.  Do  not,  oh,  do  not,  spend 
your  vacation  time  in  a  hotel,  or  Pullman  car.  It  will  do 
you  more  good  at  twenty  to  sleep  under  boughs  aslant,  by 
a  mountain  lake  with  the  trout  broiling,  than  to  see  the 
Congressional  Library  or  Niagara  Falls. 

The  great  cry  of  "Back  to  Nature"  that  is  spreading 
abroad  over  our  land  is  full  of  deep  significance,  and  the 
heeding  of  Nature's  ever-calling  voice,  and  an  adaptation  of 
our  lives  to  her  laws,  is  going  to  become  a  salvation  of  the 
American  race. 

EUGENE  L.  SWAN. 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  popularity  of  Harper's  Practical  Books  has  brought 
many  suggestions  and  inquiries  for  a  guide  to  camp- 
life  which  should  be  modern  and  comprehensive,  but  at  the 
same  time  simple  and  explicit.  The  aim  of  the  books  in 
this  series  is  self-development.  They  show  how  to  do  things 
instead  of  dealing  in  description.  This  idea  of  doing  for 
one's  self  is  the  keynote  of  this  book  of  camping,  woodcraft, 
and  various  phases  of  the  outdoor  life  which  has  grown  so 
enormously  in  favor  of  recent  years.  It  does  not  deal  in 
description  of  scenery  or  tales  of  outdoor  experiences,  and 
its  information  will  be  found  of  immediate  practical  value 
whether  the  reader  is  a  member  of  any  organization  or 
not.  This  is  an  American  book,  intended  to  show  American 
boys  and  girls  how  to  make  camps  at  their  own  homes  or 
abroad,  how  to  prepare  for  outdoor  life,  where  to  go,  how 
to  choose  a  camp-site  and  make  camp,  how  to  live  in  camp, 
how  to  dress  and  cook  and  eat,  how  to  amuse  themselves, 
how  to  take  care  of  themselves  in  the  woods  and  on  the 
trail  or  river,  and,  together  with  these  general  subjects, 
there  are  explanations  adapted  to  the  very  different  kinds 
of  camps  which  appear  throughout  our  country  every 
summer.  There  are  boys  and  girls  who  find  infinite  pleasure 

xiii 


INTRODUCTION 


in  pitching  home-made  tents  in  the  lee  of  their  own  houses, 
or  in  building  shelters  or  tree-huts  in  their  own  grounds. 
Here  are  helpful  suggestions  for  them  as  well  as  for  those 
who  camp  farther  afield. 

While  no  exact  estimate  is  possible,  it  has  been  said  that 
over  one  hundred  thousand  boys  and  girls  go  into  camps 
for  a  longer  or  shorter  time  every  summer.  There  are  the 
camps  of  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Associations,  Fresh  Air  Camps,  camps 
for  invalids,  school  camps,  military  camps,  individual  camps, 
camps  on  Western  ranches  and  mountains,  and  camp-life 
on  beaches,  on  house-boats  and  with  caravans,  and  also  the 
immense  and  significant  development  of  private  camps  for 
boys  and  girls,  a  subject  hitherto  so  inadequately  treated 
that  the  special  attention  of  parents  as  well  as  younger 
readers  may  be  called  to  the  part  of  the  book  in  which 
Dr.  Eugene  L.  Swan  draws  upon  the  stores  of  his  experience 
in  his  treatment  of  private  summer  camps. 

With  all  this  increase  in  outdoor  life  there  has  naturally 
come  an  increased  supply  of  equipments.  Some  of  the  older 
books  contain  directions  for  making  fishing-rods  and  ham- 
mocks, but  to-day,  in  view  of  the  number  and  range  of 
prices  of  such  articles  which  are  easily  accessible,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  spend  the  time,  although  some  hints  in  this 
direction  are  afforded.  Nevertheless  it  is  essential  to  be 
guided  by  accurate  knowledge  in  making  selections  of  outfit 
or  supplies.  The  vast  number  of  canned  goods  and  pre- 
pared foods  simplifies  the  work  of  the  commissary  depart- 
ment in  one  sense,  and  yet  renders  a  discriminating  choice 
more  than  ever  necessary.  The  danger  now  is  of  being  led 
away  by  the  temptations  of  patented  but  experimental 

xiv 


INTRODUCTION 


equipments,  by  the  attractive  exteriors  of  superfluous  and 
occasionally  worthless  articles,  and  by  mere  novelties  in 
the  way  of  prepared  foods.  Without  any  argument  for 
the  primitive  simplicity  of  a  Maine  "cruiser's"  outfit,  it 
is  safe  to  say  that  the  great  majority  of  camping-parties  are 
overloaded  with  superfluities. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  the  equipment  for  a  hunting-trip 
in  Mississippi  or  Louisiana  cane-brakes  differs  radically 
from  the  outfit  for  a  camp  in  the  Adirondacks,  just  as  very 
different  provision  is  needed  for  a  pack-train  outfit  in  Mon- 
tana or  Wyoming  and  a  fishing-camp  in  Maine,  New  Bruns- 
wick, or  Quebec.  Local  conditions  are  naturally  dealt  with 
only  in  a  general  way,  but  there  are  plenty  of  matters  of 
universal  consequence  which  should  be  made  clear  to  boys 
and  girls  in  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and,  for  that 
matter,  to  a  large  proportion  of  older  readers. 

For  example,  after  outfit  and  place  are  settled  upon,  there 
is,  in  many  cases,  a  question  of  guides,  and  it  must  be  con- 
fessed that  with  the  growth  of  extravagant  taste  and  of  the 
tipping  habit  and  the  establishment  of  luxurious  hotels  in 
proximity  to  camping-grounds  many  guides  have  become 
enervated,  greedy,  and  inefficient.  This  is  a  matter  of  which 
a  modern  camping-book  must  take  cognizance,  just  as  some- 
thing must  be  said  of  commercially  organized  private  camps 
for  boys  where  the  supervision  is  more  or  less  irresponsible. 

Subjects  like  the  considerations  governing  the  exact  choice 
of  a  camp-site,  questions  of  drainage,  water,  etc.,  are  ex- 
plained as  a  matter  of  course,  but  there  are  other  things 
which  must  be  dealt  with  as  frankly  as  the  matter  of  guides, 
among  them  the  necessity  of  "policing"  a  camp  effectively, 

xv 


INTRODUCTION 


the  removal  and  burial  of  tin  cans  and  rubbish,  a  regard  for 
trees  and  natural  beauties — in  short,  sanitation  and  a  regard 
for  the  amenities  of  outdoor  life,  as  well  as  the  elementary 
and  obvious  precautions  against  fires.  The  need  of  em- 
phasis upon  such  points  has  been  shown  too  often  among 
adults,  noticeably  in  some  phases  of  military  camp -life. 
This  book  includes  some  of  the  newer  lessons  drawn  from 
military  experience. 

There  are  few  boys  who  are  not  followers  of  Izaak  Walton 
when  the  chance  is  offered,  and  this  book  affords  them  prac- 
tical general  suggestions  and  counsel  which  are  based  upon 
a  long  experience.  Fly-fishing  is  naturally  placed  first  as  the' 
most  sportsmanlike  and  delightful  way  of  matching  one's 
wit  against  game  fish.  While  trout-fishing  takes  prece- 
dence, there  are  adequate  general  explanations  of  fishing  for 
bass  and  ouananiche  and  also  pickerel  and  other  fish. 
And  one  point  which  the  authors  of  this  book  impress  upon 
their  readers  is  true  sportsmanship.  Never  kill  for  the  sake 
of  killing.  Never  catch  more  fish  than  can  be  used.  These 
are  homely  maxims,  but  they  are  to  be  reiterated  until  the 
"trout-hog"  disappears.  Fortunately,  there  is  a  better 
spirit  in  outdoor  life  to-day,  and  among  other  phases  of  this 
more  humane  attitude  is  the  substitution  of  the  camera  for 
the  indiscriminate  use  of  gun  or  pistol  upon  squirrels  and 
birds  in  the  woods. 

The  subject  of  woodcraft  is  explained  simply  and  natu- 
rally. It  is  an  American  inheritance.  A  knowledge  of  wood- 
craft was  enforced  upon  the  first-comers  to  this  continent, 
and  "Nessmuk,"  and  others  who  have  aided  in  adapting 
this  knowledge  to  modern  use  have  helped  the  education 

xvi 


INTRODUCTION 


of  American  boys  and  girls.  England  has  approached 
certain  phases  of  outdoor  life  from  a  different  point  of 
view.  In  this  book  the  simpler  essentials  of  woodcraft 
and  certain  desirable  phases  of  "scouting"  are  explained 
without  any  desire  to  impose  arbitrary  rules  or  to  increase 
youthful  self-consciousness. 

Subjects  like  personal  care  in  camp,  illness,  accidents, 
first  aid,  protection  against  insects,  and  many  others  re- 
ceive proper  attention,  and  some  space  is  devoted  to  camp 
cookery  and  camp  receipts. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  Dr.  George  Bird  Grinnell,  the  out- 
door literature  published  by  the  Forest  &  Stream  Company 
has  been  generously  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  publishers, 
and  it  is  a  pleasure  to  make  acknowledgment  of  the  aid 
afforded  through  comparison  and  selection  in  the  case 
of  the  books  of  "Nessmuk"  and  others.  The  effort  of  the 
editors  has  been  to  bring  together  a  consensus  of  the  opinions 
and  experience  of  experts  in  the  various  phases  of  the  modern 
outdoor  life  which,  happily,  is  assuming  such  large  conse- 
quence on  this  continent. 


Part  I 
THE    CAMPER'S    OPPORTUNITIES 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 

Chapter  I 

WHERE    TO    CAMP 

OUMMER  and  outdoor  life  in  the  middle  of  the  nine- 
O  teenth  century  and  later  consisted  very  largely  of 
visits  to  summer  hotels.  Very  fortunately  now,  although 
too  many  of  our  houses  and  public  buildings  are  overheated 
and  badly  ventilated  in  winter,  the  virtues  of  fresh  air  and 
outdoor  life  are  generally  recognized.  We  see  pictures  of 
outdoor  schools  with  the  children  studying  in  a  snowstorm. 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  find  sleeping-pavilions  arranged 
on  the  roofs  or  extensions  of  city  houses,  and  loggias,  or 
sleeping-porches,  are  constantly  in  use  in  country  houses. 
These  and  a  hundred  other  manifestations  of  the  fresh -air 
spirit  are  good,  but  for  the  boy  or  man,  girl  or  woman  who 
has  never  known  genuine  camp  life  the  fullest  enjoyment  is 
yet  to  come. 

Camping  near  Home 

For  the  great  majority  of  boys  and  girls  camping  is  a 
question  of  a  month  or  two  in  summer.  Obviously,  very 
few  need  to  be  guided  to  autumn  camps  in  the  North  in  pur- 

3 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


suit  of  moose,  or  winter  camps  in  Florida  or  California,  or 
such  long  journeys  as  that  which  begins  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Misstassini  and  includes  the  southern  shore  of  Hudson  Bay, 
or  the  old  Telegraph  Trail  to  Alaska.  For  some,  camp  life 
may  mean  simply  a  tent — perhaps  home-made — pitched 
within  easy  reach  of  home  comforts.  Home  camping  is 
explained  at  length  in  later  chapters.  Of  camping  on  farm 
lands  or  in  the  neighborhood  of  houses  there  is  this  to 
be  said:  First  make  sure  of  the  permission  and  approval 
of  the  owner  of  the  land.  Secondly,  respect  his  rights  in 
every  way.  Cut  no  trees  without  his  consent.  Don't  knock 
down  fences  or  walls,  or  trample  growing  crops.  If  you  let 
down  bars  or  open  gates,  close  them  after  you.  Never  take 
fruit  or  corn  without  permission.  Watch  your  fire  with  the 
utmost  care.  Keep  your  camp  clean  and  dispose  of  all 
rubbish  before  leaving.  Every  summer  there  is  much 
damage  done  and  much  hostility  aroused  by  campers 
regardless  of  the  rights  of  others.  With  a  little  thought 
and  trouble  all  this  can  be  avoided  and  the  next  camper  will 
be  sure  of  a  welcome.  Unfortunately,  there  are  boys  who 
seem  to  feel  that  camping  means  license  and  rowdyism.  On 
the  contrary,  camp  life  is  the  test  of  the  gentleman.  The 
camper  has  a  responsibility  to  the  owner  of  the  land  and  to 
those  who  come  after  him.  One  primary  obligation  wher- 
ever the  camp  may  be  is  not  to  spoil  natural  beauties. 

Camping  in  Maine 

As  to  camping-places  farther  afield,  in  a  section  which  re- 
tains more  or  less  of  the  wilderness  character,  the  State,  of 

4 


CAMPING    AT    ROCKAWAY    BEACH,    LONG    ISLAND 


CAMPING    UNDER    THE    PALISADES    OF    THE    HUDSON 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Maine  comes  naturally  to  mind  as  perhaps  the  most  inviting 
of  the  Eastern  States  for  the  fisherman.  It  has  a  vast  area 
of  unsettled  territory  rich  in  lakes,  rivers,  mountains,  and 
forests,  all  excellently  mapped.  Camp  life  is  a  business  in 
Maine  which  involves  both  advantages  and  disadvantages, 
but  it  is  easy  to  obtain  information  through  local  guide- 
books and  railroad  publications.1  The  State  Fish  and 
Game  Commission  in  Maine,  as  in  other  States,  is  usually 
able  to  indicate  sources  of  knowledge  regarding  local  sub- 
jects. In  all  these  cases  the  glittering  promises  of  railroad 
literature  and  local  books  regarding  fishing  may  be  accepted 
only  with  some  allowances.  It  is  always  desirable  to  obtain 
an  impartial  opinion  from  some  one  who  has  actually  cov- 
ered the  ground  in  person.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
August  is  in  almost  every  trout  region  a  poor  month  for  fly- 
fishing, and  it  is  a  question  of  finding  some  small  lake  with 
cold  water  where  the  trout  come  to  the  surface  even  in  hot 
weather.  The  Maine  guides  furnish  their  own  canoes  and 
their  personal  camp  outfit  and  cooking  utensils,  and  receive 
three  dollars  a  day  each.  There  are  many  regular  trips, 
most  of  which  involve  additional  charges  for  transportation 
across  portages,  steamboat  fares,  and  the  influence  of  the 
guides  is  sometimes  thrown  strongly  in  favor  of  nights  at 
public  camps.  All  these  extras  should  be  taken  into  account 
in  making  arrangements.  But  the  beauty  of  the  Maine 
woods  and  rivers  continues  in  spite  of  the  inroads  of  water- 


1  The  Boston  &  Maine,  Maine  Central,  and  Bangor  &  Aroostook  rail- 
roads publish  suggestive  advertising  literature.  Messrs.  Loring,  Short  & 
Harmon,  of  Portland,  could  furnish  information  regarding  local  guide- 
books and  maps. 

6 


Outing  Publishing  Co. 

A  WOODLAND  CAMP  NOT  FAR  FROM  HOME 


By  courtesy  ul  tlic  Outing  Publishing  Co. 

A    WILDERNESS    CAMP    IN    BRITISH    COLUMBIA 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


power  and  wood-pulp  companies,  and  the  invigorating  tonic 
of  the  Maine  air  may  be  accepted  without  any  reservations. 
In  New  Brunswick  and  Quebec  the  salmon  rivers  are 
leased,  and  very  definite  information  as  to  the  possibilities 
for  trout-fishing  should  be  obtained  in  advance.1  At 
Roberval,  on  Lake  St.  John,  the  headwaters  of  the  Sague- 
nay  in  Quebec,  visitors  are  outfitted  for  ouananiche-fishing, 
which  is  uncertain.  But  if  the  ouananiche  is  found  and 
hooked  there  is  no  keener  sport  for  the  fisherman.  These  are, 
of  course,  merely  illustrations  of  the  endless  opportunities  for 
outdoor  life  offered  by  the  great  empire  of  Canada  nearly 
all  the  way  from  Labrador  to  the  Pacific  and  far  to  the 
north. 

The  Adirondacks 

So  far  as  trout-fishing  is  concerned  Maine  leads  the  Eastern 
States,  but  there  is  trout-fishing  and  lake-fishing  to  be  had 
in  the  other  New  England  States,  particularly  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Vermont,  both  of  which  in  their  beautiful  lake 
and  mountain  scenery  offer  ample  inducements  to  outdoor 
life.  In  New  York  the  famous  Adirondack  region  has  un- 
dergone a  transformation  since  it  was  exploited  to  former 
generations  by  "Adirondack"  Murray.  The  multiplication 
of  great  hotels,  elaborate  private  camps,  and  the  control  of 
large  tracts  by  private  individuals  and  clubs  have  taken 
away  much  of  the  wilderness  character,  and  made  it  neces- 

1  The  advertising  literature  of  the  Intercolonial,  Quebec  &  Lake  St. 
John,  Grand  Trunk  and  Canadian  Pacific  railroads  will  afford  helpful  hints. 
By  writing  to  the  passenger  departments  of  these  railroads,  and  asking 
specific  questions,  additional  information  may  be  obtained. 

8 


WHERE    TO   CAMP 


sary  to  obtain  exact  information  as  to  what  can  and  cannot 
be  done.  But  there  are  ample  opportunities  for  canoemen 
and  campers.1  Many  regular  trips  have  been  mapped  out 
across  the  Adirondack  region,  and  State  control  has  pre- 
served for  the  public  a  magnificent  outdoor  playground. 
The  southern  Catskills  and  Sullivan  County  are  also  centres 
of  outdoor  life.  For  Eastern  anglers  the  Beaver  kill  is  a 
familiar  name.2  And  continuing  farther  south  into  Pennsyl- 
vania there  is  the  bass  fishing  of  the  Delaware  3  and  the 
trout  of  Pike  County. 

West  and  South 

These  few  suggestions  serve  to  point  the  way  to  natural 
opportunities  which  range  from  Texas  and  the  Ozark 
Mountains  of  Missouri. to  the  upper  Michigan  peninsula,  the 
lakes  of  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota,  the  mountains  and  parks 
of  Colorado,  Wyoming,  and  Montana,  the  foothills  of  the 
Sierras  in  California,  and  the  -magnificent  mountain,  lake, 
and  forest  regions  of  Oregon  and  Washington. 

Railroad  literature,  correspondence  with  State  Fish  and 
Game  Commissions,  and  local  guide-books  are  all  helpful. 
But  the  actual  experience  of  those  who  have  tried  the 

1  The  passenger  department  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Railroad  at 
Albany  publishes  a  guide-book    entitled  "A  Summer  Paradise"  which 
will   be   found   useful.     The   passenger   department   of   the   New   York 
Central  lines  at  New  York  issues  literature  and  maps  useful  for  camping 
or  canoe  trips.     The  secretary  of  the  Adirondack  Guides  Association  can 
be  addressed  at  Saranac  Lake,  New  York. 

2  The  passenger  department  of  the  Ontario  &  Western  Railroad  can 
furnish  information. 

3  The  Erie  Railroad  issues  some  helpful  publications. 

9 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ground  for  themselves  is  best  of  all.  Therefore,  when  con- 
sidering the  multitude  of  advertisements  which  every  spring 
invite  the  lover  of  outdoor  life  to  Maine  or  Canadian  camps 
or  to  pack-train  expeditions  in  the  Northwest,  remember 
that  it  is  always  prudent  for  a  boy  or  for  his  father  to  obtain 
and  utilize  specific  references.  Details  as  to  places  are  ob- 
viously impossible  in  a  book  which  is  a  guide  to  the  general 
principles  and  best  methods  of  outdoor  life. 

From   this   preliminary  outline  of   possibilities  we   shall 
return  to  our  real  starting-point — the  home. 


Chapter  II 

INDIAN  CAMPS   AT  HOME 

OINCE  home  is  the  natural  centre  of  life,  it  will  be  most 
O  helpful  if  we  find  out  what  we  can  do  just  outside 
the  house.  In  large  cities  there  is  usually  no  front  yard, 
and  even  where  such  space  exists  its  use  as  a  play-ground 
is  apt  to  be  undesirable.  But  the  back  yard  even  in  cities 
often  affords  some  chances  not  only  for  gardening  on  a 
small  scale  but  also  for  making  and  using  a  variety  of 
things  which  will  furnish  constant  amusement. 

A  Wigwam 

For  boys  who  like  to  "  play  Injun"  in  the  back  yard,  here 
are  some  ideas  for  tepees  and  wigwams  that  may  easily  be 
followed  out  at  a  very  small  cost  for  the  poles  and  canvas. 

Canvas  can  be  bought  at  a  dry-goods  or  country  store, 
and  poles  may  be  cut  in  the  woods;  or  one-and-one-half- 
inch-square  spruce  sticks  may  be  purchased  at  a  lumber- 
yard and  dressed  round  with  a  draw-knife  and  plane.  When 

ii 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


cutting  poles  for  a  wigwam  it  is  necessary  to  select  very 
straight  ones,  preferably  of  pine,  for  crooked  or  knotty 
poles  are  unsightly  and  make  an  uneven  exterior. 

The  real  Indian  tepee  is  made  from  buckskin  or  other 
strong  hides  lashed  together  with  rawhide  thongs;  but  as 
this  covering  is  beyond  the  reach  of  the  average  boy,  the 
next  best  thing  to  use  will  be  heavy  twilled  canvas  or  stout 
unbleached  muslin  that  can  be  had  for  about  ten  cents  a 
yard.  The  regulation  wigwam  is  perhaps  the  most  satis- 
factory kind  of  a  tent,  for  it  is  roomy,  will  shed  water,  and 
it  is  about  the  only  tent  in  which  a  fire  may  be  built  without 
smoking  out  the  occupants.  The  tepee  will  not  blow  over 
if  properly  set  up  and  stayed  with  an  anchor-rope,  and  it  is 
easily  taken  down  and  moved  from  place  to  place. 

For  a  party  of  three  or  four  boys  the  wigwam  shown  in 
Fig.  i  will  afford  ample  room,  and  it  is  not  so  large  as  to 
be  unhandy.  Select  thirteen  straight  poles,  not  more  than 
two  inches  thick  at  the  bottom,  and  clear  them  from  knots 
and  projecting  twigs.  They  should  be  ten  feet  long  and 
pointed  at  the  bottom  so  as  to  stick  into  the  ground  for  a 
few  inches.  Tie  three  of  them  together  eighteen  inches 
from  the  top,  and  form  a  tripod  on  a  circle  five  feet  and  six 
inches  in  diameter.  Place  the  other  poles  against  this  tri- 
pod to  form  a  cone,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  lash  them  fast 
at  the  top  with  a  piece  of  clothes-line.  From  unbleached 
muslin  or  sail-cloth  (light  weight)  make  a  cover  as  shown 
in  the  diagram  Fig.  3.  Lay  out  a  sixteen-foot  circle  on  a 
barn  floor,  or  the  grass,  with  chalk,  and  indicate  an  eigh- 
teen-inch  circle  at  the  middle.  Around  the  outer  circle  or 
periphery  measure  off  nineteen  feet  and  chalk -mark  the 

12 


A    WIGWAM 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


space.  From  these  marks  to  the  centre  of  the  circle  draw 
straight  lines,  and  within  these  limits  the  area  of  the  wig- 
wam cover  will  be  shown.  It  should  correspond  with  the 
plan  drawing  in  Fig.  3.  The  muslin  should  be  three  feet 
wide  and  with  it  this  area  can  be  covered  in  any  direction, 
sewing  the  strips  together  to  make  the  large  sheet;  or  the 
muslin  may  be  cut  in  strips  three  feet  wide  at  one  end  and 
tapering  to  a  few  inches  at  the  other,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4, 
the  seams  running  up  and  down  the  canvas  instead  of  across 
it.  The  outer  edge  of  the  canvas  cover  should  be  bound 
with  clothes-line  or  cotton  rope,  sewed  securely  with  waxed 
white  string;  then  thirteen  short  ropes  should  be  passed 
over  this  rope  so  that  the  canvas  may  be  lashed  fast  to  the 
foot  of  each  pole  to  hold  the  cover  in  place.  The  doorway 
flaps  are  formed  by  stopping  the  lacings  three  feet  up  from 
the  ground.  With  short  ropes  and  rings  sewed  to  the  cover 
the  flaps  may  be  tied  back,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i. 

The  real  Indian  wigwams  are  decorated  with  all  sorts  of 
emblems,  for  even  the  uncivilized  red  men  had  their  crests 
and  totems,  and  the  boys  who  make  these  tepees  can  easily 
invent  some  mark  which  will  distinguish  their  tent  abode 
from  all  others.  The  ornamentation  should  be  done  with 
paint  and  should  be  carried  out  before  the  canvas  covering 
is  stretched  over  the  poles. 

A  Square  Tepee 

A  square  tepee,  as  shown  in  the  illustration  Fig.  5,  is 
another  form  of  rear-yard  tent  that  is  easily  made.  Twelve 
poles  are  selected  and  four  of  them  are  lashed  fast  and  spread 


INDIAN   CAMPS   AT   HOME 


apart  on  a  square  of  six  feet.  Two  poles  are  added  to  each 
side  and  all  are  lashed  together  at  the  head.  Four  pieces 
of  canvas  or  heavy  unbleached  muslin  are  cut  and  made  on 
the  plan  as  shown  in  Fig.  6,  the  strips  being  cut  from  goods 
a  yard  wide.  These  pieces  are  six  feet  long,  one  foot  wide 


at  the  head,  and  six  feet  at  the  foot.  The  seam  through  the 
middle  of  one  piece  is  left  open  for  three  feet  to  form  the 
doorway  flaps;  then  the  four  sides  are  securely  sewed  to- 
gether with  waxed  white  string.  This  cover  is  slipped 
about  the  pole  frame,  tied  at  the  front,  and  held  down 
by  means  of  short  ropes  that  are  lashed  fast  to  the  foot  of 
each  pole.  The  cover  is  decorated  with  paint  to  give  it 
the  Indian  appearance,  and  when  the  flaps  are  tied  back  it 
is  easy  to  go  into  and  come  out  of  the  tepee, 

A  Ridge-pole  Tepee 

A  ridge-pole  tepee  is  shown  in  Fig.  7,  and  is  a  very 
easy  and   simple   one  to  make,  for   it  is  of  one  piece  of 
2  15 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


canvas  with  two  flaps  sewed  at  each  side  to  form  the 
ends. 

One  ridge  and  two  upright  poles  make  the  framework, 
and  they  are  held  in  place  by  the  canvas,  which  is  drawn  and 
lashed  fast  to  stakes  driven  in  the  ground,  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  drawing.  The  ridge-pole  is  eight  feet  long,  one  and 


a  half  inches  thick,  and  four 
inches  wide.  Two  inches 
from  either  end  a  half -inch 
hole  is  bored  to  receive  the 
iron  pins  that  are  driven 
Q  in  the  ends  of  the  uprights 
as  shown  at  Fig.  8  A  and 
B.  The  upright  poles  are  eight  feet  long,  and  when  set 
one  foot  of  the  lower  end  should  be  embedded  in  the 

16 


INDIAN    CAMPS   AT    HOME 


ground.  The  sides  are  in  one  piece  of  muslin  made  by 
sewing  widths  of  it  together.  The  sheet  measures  seventeen 
feet  long  and  eight  feet  wide;  and  when  stretched  over  the 
ridge-pole  and  fastened  down  at  both  sides  an  inverted 
shape  will  be  the  result.  It  is  ten  feet  across  at  the  bottom, 
seven  feet  high,  and  eight  feet  long  at  each  side.  For  the 
back  it  will  be  necessary  to  make  a  triangular  piece  of  can- 
vas the  right  size  to  fit  the  opening,  or  two  flaps  may  be 
cut,  divided  at  the  middle,  and  tied  back,  or  laced,  to  close 
the  tent.  The  apron  or  part  enclosure  at  the  front  is 
formed  from  pieces  of  canvas  two  feet  wide  sewed  along 
the  edges  and  caught  together  at  the  middle  over  the 
opening. 

Ten  pegs  eighteen  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide  are 
cut  from  hard -wood  as  shown  at  Fig.  8  C.  These  are 
driven  in  the  ground  at  an  angle  and  ropes  attached  to  the 
lower  edges  of  the  canvas  sidings  are  lashed  fast  to  them. 
This  tepee  is  long  enough  to  swing  a  hammock  from  pole 
to  pole,  and  on  a  warm  summer  night  makes  an  ideal  place 
for  sleeping  out-of-doors.  The  covering,  like  that  of  the 
other  wigwams,  may  be  decorated  with  Indian  emblems, 
and  if  a  party  of  boys  are  going  to  camp  in  the  back  yard 
their  tepees  can  be  inscribed  with  different  crests  and  to- 
tems to  indicate  individual  ownership. 


Chapter  III 
TREE    HUTS   AND    BRUSH-HOUSES 


'""PHE  most  delightful  season  in  the  woods,  throughout 
1  the  northern  and  middle  parts  of  the  United  States,  is 
during  the  summer  months,  and  in  the  South  right  up  to 
Christmas;  while  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  through 
southern  Texas  and  California,  the  woods  are  attractive  all 
through  the  year. 

Brush-houses,  sylvan  retreats,  and  tree  huts  of  various 
kinds  are  made  by  boys  all  over  the  country,  and  some  very 
unique  and  original  ones  are  often  constructed  from  simple 
and  inexpensive  materials.  Everything  from  the  back-yard 
"lean-to"  and  the  tent  of  sheets  to  the  tree  huts  that  are 
inaccessible  when  the  rope-ladder  is  drawn  up  may  be  made 
by  boys  who  are  at  all  handy  with  tools,  and  a  well-built 
tree  hut  is  an  ideal  place  in  which  to  spend  one's  vacation 
days. 

The  following  ideas  and  suggestions  may  be  of  service, 
and  they  have  all  been  tested  in  practical  experience. 

A  Low  Twin-tree  Hot 

A  very  serviceable  twin-tree  hut  is  shown  in  Fig.  i,  and 
it  can  easily  be  constructed,  at  a  small  cost,  from  ordinary 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 


boards  and  timbers.  If  it  is  built  high  up  in  the  trees  it 
is  doubly  secure  from  invasion,  for  the  ladder  can  be  drawn 
up  when  the  owners  are  at  home  and  it  will  be  a  difficult 
matter  for  outsiders  to  enter. 

To  properly  build  this  hut  select  a  location  between  two 
trees  six  to  eight  feet  apart.  The  trees  should  have  com- 
paratively straight  trunks  at  least  fifteen  inches  in  diameter, 
and  no  cavities  at  the  base  nor  indications  of  decay. 

With  an  axe  clear  off  the  brush  and  small  branches  for 
twenty  feet  up  from  the  ground  at  the  inside  of  the  trunks, 
or  where  the  hut  is  to  be  located.  From  a  lumber-yard 
obtain  four  or  five  pieces  of  spruce  or  other  timber  two 
inches  thick,  eight  inches  wide,  and  sixteen  feet  long.  Saw 
off  and  nail  two  of  these  pieces  to  the  trunks  of  the  trees 
eight  feet  above  the  ground,  first  cutting  away  some  of  the 
bark  and  wood  of  the  trunk  to  afford  a  flat  surface  for  the 
timbers  to  lie  against  on  each  side.  Six-inch  steel-wire  nails 
will  be  required  for  these  anchorages,  and  under  the  timbers 
and  lying  flat  against  the  tree-trunks  bracket-blocks  two- 
by-eight  inches  and  fifteen  inches  long  are  securely  spiked 
to  lend  additional  support  to  the  cross-timbers. 

Cut  two  timbers  six  feet  long  and  two  others  the  length 
of  the  distance  between  tree-trunks.  In  the  six-foot  pieces 
cut  notches  at  the  under  side  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  C  C.  Into 
these  the  ends  of  bracket-timbers  D  D  will  fit.  Cut  the 
ends  of  the  timbers  forming  the  square  frame  so  that  they 
will  dovetail  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  Spike  the  six-foot  timbers 
to  the  tree-trunks  so  that  they  will  rest  on  the  first  two 
timbers  that  were  nailed  to  the  trees,  and  from  the  two-by- 
eight-inch  wood  cut  four  brackets  D  D,  and  spike  them 

19 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


fast  under  each  cross-timber  so  each  tree  will  appear  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Place  the  remaining  two  timbers  in  posi- 
tion so  that  the  ends  will  fit  into  those  fastened  to  the  trees, 
and  nail  them  fast  as  shown  in  Fig.  4. 

In  Fig.  5  the  first  timbers  can  be  seen  spiked  to  the  tree- 
trunks,  where  they  are  supported  by  the  fifteen-inch  blocks 
nailed  fast  below  them.  The  cross-timbers  are  shown  at 

20 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 


A  A,  and  the  last  ones,  forming  the  frame  that  are  let  into 
dove-tailed  joints  at  the  ends,  are  shown  at  B  B.  Cut  two 
more  timbers  E  E,  and  lay  them  across  the  supporting 
timbers,  nailed  to  the  tree,  so  they  will  fit  inside  the  front 
and  back  timbers  B  B,  where  they  are  to  be  well  secured 
with  long  nails.  The  floor  frame  will  then  be  complete. 

From  two-by-three-inch  spruce  construct  a  frame  seven 
feet  high  at  the  front,  six  feet  at  the  back,  and  spike  the 
side  timbers  F  F,  forming  the  top,  to  the  inside  of  the  tree- 
trunks  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  bottom  of  the  uprights  are 
to  be  mounted  on  the  corners  of  the  floor  frame  as  shown  in 
Fig.  4,  where  four  long  nails  will  hold  them  securely  in  place. 

Cut  two  timbers  and  arrange  them  in  an  upright  position 
at  the  front  thirty  inches  apart,  where  the  door  will  come, 
then  half-way  between  the  floor  and  top  of  the  framework 
run  a  timber  all  around  except  between  the  door  timbers. 
This  will  add  a  strengthening  rib  to  which  the  sheathing 
boards  can  be  nailed,  and  will  also  make  one  more  anchorage 
to  the  tree-trunks.  The  side-rails  should  be  spiked  to  the 
tree-trunks  in  a  corresponding  manner  to  that  of  the  top  or 
roof -strips.  From  a  lumber-yard  obtain  some  four,  six,  or 
ten  inch  matched  boards,  planed  on  both  sides,  and  use 
them  for  the  floor  and  sheathing. 

The  roof  may  be  made  from  the  same  kind  of  boards,  and 
over  them  a  thickness  or  two  of  tarred  paper  is  to  be  laid 
and  fastened  down  at  the  edges  and  seams  with  small  metal 
washers  and  nails  that  can  be  had  where  the  paper  is  pur- 
chased. This  will  make  the  roof  water-tight,  for  a  season 
at  least ;  and  if  it  is  given  one  or  two  coats  of  paint  it  will 
preserve  the  paper  so  that  it  may  last  for  several  years. 

21 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Two  or  three  windows  twenty-four  inches  square  may 
be  placed  in  the  back  and  sides  of  the  hut  above  the  middle 
rib;  and  a  door  of  boards  held  together  with  battens,  as 
shown  in  the  illustration,  is  to  be  made  and  hung  with  long, 
stout  strap-hinges.  A  knob  lock  or  a  hasp  and  padlock  will 
keep  the  door  closed  when  the  hut  is  unoccupied.  When  in 
use,  a  wooden  button  will  hold  the  door  shut  from  the 
inside. 

A  ladder  of  hickory  poles  and  cross-sticks  should  be  made 
twenty  inches  wide  and  provided  with  loops  at  the  top  that 
will  fit  over  large  nails  driven  in  the  door-sill,  so  as  to  keep 
it  from  slipping  when  it  bends  under  the  weight  of  a  boy. 

Where  the  rungs  join  the  side-rails  of  the  ladder  the  union 
is  made  by  lashing  the  cross-sticks  fast  with  tarred  rigging 
or  stout  cotton  line.  If  a  flexible  ladder  is  preferred  ropes 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  side -rails  to  which  the  rungs  are 
lashed  fast.  When  the  owners  are  at  home  the  ladder  can 
be  drawn  up  and  hung  on  nails  driven  in  the  front  edge  of 
the  roof.  If  a  rope-ladder  is  used  it  can  be  drawn  in  and 
rolled  up. 

Inside  of  the  hut,  at  either  end,  a  seat  eighteen  inches 
wide  should  be  built  in  about  sixteen  inches  up  from  the 
floor.  These  seats  can  be  used  as  bunks  if  desired.  Some 
narrow  shelving  should  be  arranged  over  the  windows  and 
fastened  there  with  brackets,  on  which  small  things  may  be 
kept. 

A  small  table  may  be  made  from  some  ends  of  the  sheath- 
ing boards  and  two-by-three-inch  spruce  sticks ;  and  boxes 
may  be  used  for  seats,  or  small  benches  can  easily  be  knocked 
together  as  shown  in  Fig.  6  A.  Under  the  table  a  ledge 

22 


A    HIGH    TWIN-TREE    HUT 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


twelve  inches  wide  is  to  be  attached  to  the  lower  cross-rails 
that  connect  the  legs  as  shown  at  Fig.  6  B. 

A  wall-nest  may  be  made  from  a  shoe-case  in  which  four 
or  five  shelves  are  arranged  as  shown  in  Fig.  6  C.  A  door 
made  from  the  box-cover  is  attached  with  hinges,  and  a 
catch  or  hasp  will  keep  it  closed. 

A  High  Twin-tree  Hut 

Twelve  or  fifteen  feet  above  the  ground,  and  built  in 
between  the  trunks  of  two  stout  trees,  a  high  tree  hut  is 
shown  in  Figv  7.  Larger  and  more  substantial  trees  must 
be  selected  to  build  this  hut  in  than  the  ones  for  the 
low  hut,  and  as  a  rope-ladder  will  probably  be  used  a 
landing -deck  or  piazza  should  be  built  at  the  front  of 
the  hut. 

While  this  hut  is  built  between  two  trees  it  is  also  built 
against  them,  as  the  trunk  of  each  tree  can  be  partially 
enclosed  in  the  hut.  The  under  cross-timbers  that  support 
the  floor  frame  are  to  be  attached  to  the  trees  the  same  as 
described  for  the  low  tree  hut,  and  on  these  the  other  tim- 
bers are  laid  and  fastened  as  shown  in  Fig.  8.  The  main 
timbers  extend  beyond  the  outside  of  the  trunks,  and  the 
supporting  and  floor  timbers  enclose  each  trunk.  At  the 
front  the  frame  is  carried  forward  two  feet  more  than  at  the 
back,  allowing  this  much  for  the  width  of  the  deck.  The 
uprights  are  arranged  somewhat  differently  also,  as  they  are 
bound  at  the  top  to  scantlings  that  butt  into  the  trunks. 
Fig.  8  A  A. 

Instead  of  a  flat  roof  like  the  low  hut,  this  one  is  to  have 

24 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 

a  pitched  roof,  the  supporting  timbers  of  which  are  attached 
to  the  ridge-poles  B  B,  which  are  fastened  to  the  tree-trunks 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  under  cross-timbers.  This  con- 
struction is  clearly  shown  in  Fig.  8,  where  the  location  of 
each  upright  and  cross-piece  is  indicated. 

A  rail  is  run  along  the  front  and  one  end  of  the  deck,  and 
is  fastened  at  the  top  of  four  uprights  of  two-by-three-inch 
spruce,  the  lower  ends  of  which  are  securely  nailed  to  the 
front  stringers  as  the  illustration  shows. 

In  place  of  the  supporting  brackets  D  D  that  are  let  into 
the  timber  C  at  Fig.  2,  longer  brackets  or  props  are  caught 
under  the  floor  timbers  and  braced  at  the  lower  end  against 
the  trunks,  where  an  additional  anchorage  or  support  is 
made  by  a  stout  block  which  is  securely  spiked  to  the  trunk 
underneath  each  bracket  end  as  shown  in  Fig.  8  C  C.  The 
frame  is  then  enclosed  as  described  for  the  low  hut,  and 
windows  and  a  door  are  mounted  as  shown. 

A  long,  stiff  ladder  may  be  used  to  climb  up,  but  a  more 
interesting  ladder  can  be  made  of  rope  and  hickory  rungs. 
By  means  of  a  thin  rope  attached  to  the  bottom  rung  the 
ladder  can  be  hauled  up  to  the  deck  so  that  it  is  out  of  the 
reach  of  other  boys;  and  being  fastened  at  the  top,  no 
one  can  remove  it  or  pull  it  away  as  they  could  a  stiff 
ladder. 

A  rope-ladder  is  made  of  stout  clothes-line  and  hickory 
rungs  lashed  together  securely  with  strong  line  as  shown  in 
Fig.  9.  The  rungs  are  of  straight  hickory  with  or  without 
the  bark  on,  one  inch  and  a  quarter  thick  and  twenty-four 
inches  long.  Near  the  end  of  each  rung  a  notch  is  cut  on 
both  sides  for  the  rope  to  lie  in,  as  shown  at  the  upper  end 

25 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


of  Fig.  9,  and  each  union  is  to  be  very  securely  bound  with 
the  line  so  as  to  prevent  slipping. 

The  ladder  is  hung  on  stout  wooden  pegs  driven  into  the 
deck  through  holes  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter.  An 
extra  rope  is  to  be  carried  from  the  top  rung  up  over  the 
pegs  and  down  again,  where  a  wrap  is  taken  over  one  or  two 


rungs ;  then  it  is  lashed  fast  to  the  other  ropes  with  the  stout 
line  as  shown  in  Fig.  10. 

Bunks  and  furniture  can  be  made  for  the  interior,  and 
any  other  convenient  accessories  to  the  comfort  and  pleasure 
of  the  boy  owners  may  be  added  as  need  arises. 

26 


FIG.   1 1 — A    SINGLE-TREE    HUT 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


A  Single-tree  Hut 

In  the  spreading  branches  of  a  large  oak-tree  a  very  snug 
roost  can  be  made  high  above  the  ground  as  shown  in  Fig. 
ii. 

This  single-tree  hut  is  twenty-five  feet  above  the  ground, 
and  below  it  is  a  landing  from  which  the  rope-ladder  is 
dropped.  From  this  landing  to  the  piazza  or  deck  of  the 
hut  a  stiff  ladder  is  made  fast  both  at  top  and  bottom,  and 
an  opening  in  the  floor  of  the  deck  will  allow  room  to  climb 
up  on  the  deck. 

As  very  few  trees  are  alike  it  would  be  difficult  to  give  a 
plan  for  the  floor  timbers  among  the  out-spreading  branches ; 
but  from  the  plans  shown  for  the  twin-tree  hut  some  idea 
of  the  construction  can  be  had  for  single-tree  huts. 

The  main  tree-trunk  will,  of  course,  have  to  project  up 
through  the  hut,  and  the  location  in  the  tree  should  be 
selected  so  that  out-spreading  branches  will  form  a  support 
to  the  lower  edges  of  the  floor  frame  as  may  be  seen  in  Fig. 
12,  the  plan  of  a  low  tree  hut. 

A  peaked,  a  mansard,  or  a  flat  roof  can  be  placed  on  the 
hut,  depending  on  the  main  trunk  to  give  it  support ;  and 
if  the  space  in  the  tree  will  permit,  a  deck  across  the  front 
and  both  sides  will  be  found  useful.  The  floor  timbers 
should  be  well  braced  to  the  main  trunk  of  the  tree  with 
long  and  short  bracket-pieces  or  props.  These  will  help 
greatly  in  making  the  hut  steady  in  the  tree,  and  where  the 
lower  ends  are  attached  to  the  trunk  large  spikes  should  be 
well  driven  in.  Cleats  or  blocks  can  be  nailed  fast  under  the 

28 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 

ends  also,  as  they  will  help  to  support  and  strengthen  the 
anchorage. 

Water  and  food  can  be  kept  cool  by  suspending  them  in 
a  shady  place.  Water  in  a  porous  jug  or  earthen  pitcher 
will  keep  very  cold  if  hung  in  the  tree  branches  where  the  air 
can  freely  circulate  around  it.  Keep  fire  away  from  the 
tree  huts,  and  do  not  light  any  matches  nor  burn  candles, 
for  if  once  a  fire  is  started  nothing  will  save  your  hut.  It 
is  too  high  to  reach  with  a  bucket,  and,  located  as  it  is,  a 
perfect  draught  will  fan  a  small  flame  into  a  raging  fire  in 
no  time. 

A  Low  Single-tree  Hot 

It  is  not  always  best  to  build  a  hut  in  high  trees,  nor 
is  it  possible  to  do  so  in  every  case,  because  there  may  not 
be  any  high,  large  trees  at  hand  strong  enough  to  support  a 
hut.  For  younger  boys  a  low  tree  hut  is  preferable,  so 
that  if  a  possible  misstep  should  result  in  a  fall  it  would  be 
less  harmful  than  from  a  high  tree.  An  apple  or  maple  tree 
often  affords  a  good  support  for  a  low  tree  hut,  and  if  the 
trunk  is  substantially  heavy  a  house  similar  to  the  one 
shown  in  Fig.  12  (page  26)  can  easily  be  constructed.  The 
tree  should  be  large  enough  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  house 
without  straining  it,  particularly  in  a  storm  or  high  wind. 

The  general  construction  of  the  frame  is  shown  in  Fig.  12. 
The  frame  should  be  of  two-by-three-inch  spruce  and  the 
flooring  beams  can  be  of  two-by-four-inch  spruce  or  other 
timber.  One  or  two  windows  and  a  door  may  be  arranged 
in  the  hut,  and  tar-paper  tacked  on  the  roof  will  make  it 
water-proof. 

29 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Access  to  the  hut  can  be  had  by  means  of  a  ladder  made 
from  two-by-three-inch  spruce  rails  with  hickory  rungs,  or 
two-by-one-inch  hard-wood  sticks  securely  nailed  to  the 
rails. 

A  Brush-house 

In  nearly  every  part  of  the  country  where  there  is  low 
ground  one  may  generally  find  a  high  growth  of  plant  life 
having  a  long  stalk,  with  the  greatest  number  of  leaves  at 
or  near  the  top.  Artichokes,  cat-tail  reeds,  wild  sunflower, 
and  the  stronger  species  of  flag  have  stalks  and  reeds  suffi- 
ciently strong  from  which  to  make  the  sides  and  roof  of  a 
hut  or  small  house  such  as  Fig.  13  depicts. 

This  growth  is  often  ten  feet  high,  and  will  have  a  straight 
and  uniform  reed  at  least  seven  or  eight  feet  up  from  the 
ground  before  the  thick  top  foliage  reduces  it  in  size.  This 
last  should  be  cut  away  and  the  smaller  under  branches  and 
leaves  trimmed  off,  leaving  a  comparatively  straight  shaft 
from  six  to  eight  feet  long.  This  will  be  limber  enough  to 
be  woven  basket-fashion,  and  quite  stiff  enough  to  hold  the 
thatching  of  meadow-grass  or  cat-tail  reeds. 

To  build  a  brush-house  like  the  one  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion, four  sticks  are  to  be  set  in  the  ground  about  six  feet 
apart,  forming  a  square.  These  should  be  eight  feet  long 
and  sunk  two  feet  into  the  ground,  the  upper  ends  being 
bound  together  with  rails  two  inches  wide  and  an  inch 
thick. 

A  pitch  can  be  given  to  the  roof  by  cutting  off  the  rear 
posts  six  inches  and  leaving  six  inches  more  of  the  front 
posts  out  of  the  ground,  thereby  allowing  a  pitch  of  one  foot 

30 


A    BRUSH-HOUSE 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


to  the  six-foot  length  of  roof.     This  slant  is  not  necessary, 
however,  and  the  roof  may  be  flat  if  it  is  easier  to  make. 

From  the  reeds  a  basket  framework  with  eight -inch 
meshes  is  to  be  woven,  as  the  boys  are  doing  in  Fig.  14. 
Three  of  these  frames  are  to  be  made  for  the  sides  and  rear 
of  the  hut,  and  at  the  front,  above  the  doorway,  a  smaller 
one  is  to  be  made  to  cover  the  space  between  the  front  posts. 


Fig.  15 


Fig.  16 


Fig.  17 


The  ends  of  the  cross-reeds  are  to  be  bent  around  the  end 
upright  reeds  as  shown  in  Fig.  1 5 ,  where  they  can  be  bound 
with  string  or  tied  with  grass.  The  window  openings  in  the 
side  frames  are  made  by  cutting  out  a  section  of  one  or  two 
uprights  and  turning  the  cross-reeds  back  and  tying  them. 
At  the  doorway  two  upright  sticks  are  driven  into  the  ground 
and  a  rail  nailed  across  their  upper  ends. 

To  this  wooden  frame  the  front  reeds  may  be  attached, 
and  the  skeleton  hut  or  house  is  then  ready  to  be  thatched 

32 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 

with  long,  dry  grass  or  dried  cat-tail  reeds.  The  thatching 
is  done  by  interweaving  long  grasses  or  reeds  between  the 
cross-reeds  in  a  vertical  position  as  shown  in  Fig.  16.  The 
thatching  material  should  be  from  eighteen  to  twenty -four 
inches  long  so  that  it  can  be  interwoven  between  three  cross- 
reeds  as  shown  in  Fig.  17,  where  a  few  strands  of  grasses  are 
placed  in  position  to  give  an  idea  of  how  to  weave  the  grass. 
Timothy  or  straw  can  be  used  to  good  advantage  for 
thatching  material,  and  if  it  is  employed  it  should  be  woven 
with  the  heads  up  and  not  too  close  together,  as  the  air 
should  get  through  the  thatching  to  keep  the  occupants  of 
the  hut  cool.  Of  course  a  house  may  be  made  larger  or 
smaller  than  the  one  described,  but  the  principle  of  good 
construction  is  the  same.  Never  depend  on  the  four  sides 
to  hold  together  without  the  corner-posts,  as  the  first  good 


33 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


wind  that  happened  along  would  blow  it  flat,  and  perhaps 
beyond  the  possibility  of  repair. 

The  edges  of  each  side  are  lashed  fast  to  the  corner-posts 
with  grass  or  string,  and  when  the  roof  is  made  it  should  be 
lashed  fast  to  the  top  of  the  sides  and  front  with  long  reeds 
or  grass. 

The  roof  is  woven  the  same  as  the  sides  but  is  thatched 
closer;  and  about  four  inches  of  the  roof  should  extend 
over  the  sides,  front,  and  rear. 


A   Brash   "  Lean-to " 

The  general  lines  of  a  miniature  barn  are  shown  in  the 
illustration  of  a  brush  "lean-to"  (Fig.  18).     This  is  con- 


',«,iuiitl //,/!¥  V» 


Fig.  19 


structed  in  nearly  the  same  manner  as  the  brush-house,  and 
thatched  with  grass  or  reeds  as  shown  in  Figs.  16  and  17. 

34 


TREE   HUTS   AND   BRUSH-HOUSES 

The  corner-posts  are  three  feet  high,  the  ridge-pole  seven 
feet  and  six  inches  above  the  ground,  and  the  hut  may  be 
from  five  to  eight  feet  square  or  made  oblong,  as  a  matter 
of  choice. 

A  frame  of  scantling  should  be  made  for  this  lean-to  the 
same  as  if  a  wooden  structure  were  to  be  built,  and  it  must 
be  nailed  together  well  to  stand  the  strain  of  the  wind  blow- 
ing hard  against  it.  In  general  construction  the  frame 
should  appear  like  Fig.  19;  and  to  the  sticks  the  edges  of 
the  thatched  framework  of  reeds  is  to  be  lashed  fast  with 
grass,  either  before  or  after  the  thatching  is  done. 

A  brush-house  or  any  hut  built  on  or  near  the  ground  is 
not  so  cool  to  stay  in  as  one  in  the  trees,  but  it  is,  of  course, 
much  easier  to  construct,  as  the  boy  builders  do  not  have  to 
move  about  so  carefully  when  at  work,  and  their  materials 
can  be  picked  up  quickly. 

Brush  huts  and  houses  can  be  built  on  the  plains  where 
trees  are  scarce,  but  in  a  country  rich  in  woods  and  forests 
the  boys  prefer  the  tree  huts,  not  only  for  their  cool  location, 
but  on  account  of  the  romance  involved  in  the  climbing  up 
to  an  inaccessible  eyrie. 


Part  II 
CAMPING   FARTHER   AFIELD 


Chapter  IV 

CHOOSING   A   CAMP-SITE 

THIS  chapter  is  written  for  those  who  may  be  termed 
domestic  campers  —  that  is,  the  small  parties  of  twro, 
three,  or  four  boys  whose  plans  do  not  extend  to  long  jour- 
neys and  wilderness  camp  life.  There  are  thousands  of 
them  who  leave  their  homes  in  towns  or  villages  for  a  trip 
of  perhaps  only  a  few  miles  to  some  lake  or  river,  where 
they  make  camp  and  enjoy  a  simple,  wholesome  outdoor 
life  which  has  the  advantage  of  being  near  supplies.  Such 
boys  will  find  plenty  of  useful,  detailed  suggestions  in  other 
chapters.  For  example,  while  Dr.  Swan's  practical  advice 
in  the  section  devoted  to  organized  camps  is  intended  par- 
ticularly for  the  organized  camps  which  house  large  groups 
of  boys,  yet  every  domestic  or  neighborhood  camper  should 
read  everything  that  he  says  about  camp-sites,  camp  sani- 
tation, and  kindred  subjects. 
I 

Personal  Outfit 

Later  on,  in  his  chapter  on  "Hiking,"  Doctor  Swan  de- 
scribes serviceable  clothing,  blankets,  etc.  Either  military 
khaki  or  the  heavier  Dux-bax  will  be  serviceable.  But  two 

39 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


pairs  of  strong  trousers  of  any  kind  will  serve,  with  two 
flannel  shirts,  a  sweater,  two  suits  of  underwear,  four  pairs  of 
woollen  stockings,  two  pairs  of  reasonably  heavy  shoes  suit- 
able for  tramping,  one  pair  of  thick-soled  sneakers  for  camp 
wear,  with  pajamas,  toilet  articles,  a  drinking-cup,  towels, 
soap,  a  pocket  mirror,  a  soft-felt  hat,  a  rubber  coat  or  oil- 
skins, and  two  pairs  of  medium-weight  woollen  or  mixed 
blankets,  and  a  rubber  blanket  to  spread  underneath.  A 
very  convenient  way  of  carrying  one's  personal  belongings  is 
borrowed  from  the  sailor's  ditty-bag.  In  its  simplest  form 
this  is  merely  a  large  canvas  bag,  water-proofed  with  linseed- 
oil,  which  is  tied  up  at  the  neck.  Regular  camping  bags  of 
this  general  description  can  be  bought  at  sporting  -  goods 
and  department  stores.  Often,  however,  the  handles  are 
flimsy  and  should  be  replaced  with  leather.  As  a  general 
rule,  it  is  well  to  test  one's  purchases,  as  far  as  possible, 
whether  it  is  a  question  of  fly  rod,  or  bait  rod,  or  gut  leaders, 
or  other  articles.  And  it  is  desirable  not  to  be  led  away  by 
newly  patented  artificial  baits,  or  cheap  flies,  or  the  super- 
ficial attractions  of  very  cheap  split  bamboo  rods.  Sound 
ash  and  lancewood  rods,  or,  in  some  cases,  greenheart  are 
more  reliable,  unless  one  selects  a  better-class  split  bamboo 
and  understands  how  to  care  for  it.  A  camera,  a  field- 
glass  for  watching  birds,  and  many  other  articles  are  ques- 
tions of  personal  tastes. 

The  selection  of  a  suitable  spot  in  which  to  build  a 
permanent  camp  is  a  matter  of  great  importance,  as 
its  situation  has  much  to  do  with  determining  the  com- 
fort and  success  of  the  camp.  We  should  advise  that  a 
camp  be  located  near  some  body  of  water,  unless  in  a  very 

40 


CHOOSING   A   CAMP-SITE 


wild  region  or  existing  for  the  special  purpose  of  studying 
Nature  in  some  of  her  many  branches.  The  usefulness  of 
the  gun  and  rifle  in  camps  nowadays  is  decidedly  small, 
the  responsibility  of  supplying  the  larder  falling  principally 
upon  the  rod,  thus  rendering  the  proximity  of  a  lake  not  * 
only  an  advantage  but  a  necessity.  There  is  also  a  con- 
stant need  of  water  for  washing  and  cooking  purposes,  and 
it  would  be  a  great  inconvenience  to  carry  water  from  any 
distance  to  meet  these  demands.  And  what  would  life  in 
camp  be  without  the  morning  plunge  in  the  cool  waters  of 
the  lake  ?  or  at  close  of  day  the  moonlight  paddle  and  song 
far  out  on  its  quiet  bosom  ? 

Camps  en  Lakes 

The  success  of  a  camp  is  not  in  proportion  to  the  size  of 
the  lake.  We  passed  three  most  enjoyable  summers  on 
the  shores  of  a  pond  five  miles  long  and  half  as  wide.  On  a 
very  large  lake  a  high  wind  will  blow  up  a  sea  which  renders 
cruising  in  a  light  boat  or  canoe  both  difficult  and  dan- 
gerous. This  extreme  roughness  lasts  often  for  several  days, 
and  in  such  an  event  a  party  encamped  on  an  island,  unless 
provided  with  a  launch  or  stanch  rowboat,  would  be  tem- 
porarily shut  off  from  all  communication  with  the  main- 
land. Again,  the  difficulty  of  locating  and  becoming  fa- 
miliar with  good  fishing-grounds  or  ledges  in  a  large  lake  is 
very  great  at  first,  but  with  local  guidance  and  careful  ex- 
perimenting much  can  be  learned.  This  is  a  matter  of  great 
importance  to  campers,  who  necessarily  depend  upon  fishing 
to  a  considerable  extent  for  pleasure  and  maintenance ;  and 

41 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


one  may  as  well  fish  on  dry  land  as  cast  his  line  at  random 
in  a  fresh-water  lake. 

On  the  other  hand,  a  large  body  of  water  has  its  ad- 
vantages. The  many  islands  and  channels  afford  excellent 
opportunities  for  exploring  expeditions,  which  are  always 
acceptable  features  of  camp  life,  while  occasional  visits  to 
the  towns  and  villages  which  border  on  many  of  our  larger 
lakes  tend  to  break  the  pleasant  monotony  of  a  total  iso- 
lation from  the  outside  world. 

The  desirability  of  camping  near  a  town  is  often  ques- 
tioned. We  advise  pitching  the  tent  at  that  end  of  the 
lake  farthest  from  the  village.  With  the  exception  of  neces- 
sary visits  two  or  three  times  a  week  for  mail  and  provisions, 
and  on  Sundays,  campers  have  no  business  in  town.  They 
should  rely  upon  their  own  resources  for  amusement,  and 
all  food  outside  of  those  staple  articles  which  they  cannot 
reasonably  be  expected  to  provide.  It  is  desirable,  how- 
ever, that  the  camp  be  situated  but  a  few  minutes'  walk 
from  some  farm-house,  in  order  that  it  may  be  furnished 
each  day  with  fresh  milk  and  eggs.  The  inclination  to  scoff 
at  any  introduction  of  home  comforts  into  a  camp,  and  the 
heroic  determination  to  subsist  on  frogs'  legs  and  condensed 
milk,  are  impracticable,  and  extremely  prosy  in  the  reality. 

One  cannot  advise  in  the  selection  of  a  particular  spot  'for 
a  camp  as  in  the  choice  of  a  rod  or  gun.  Pick  out  some  flat 
elevated  spot  free  from  dampness  but  near  the  shore  of 
the  lake.  If  possible,  pitch  your  tent  near  a  grove  of  hem- 
locks or  pines,  for  the  dead  branches  are  indispensable  as 
fuel,  while  the  green  tips  of  hemlock  twigs,  when  stuffed 
into  old  mattress  tickings,  make  excellent  beds. 

42 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


River  Cruising 

One  of  the  pleasantest  and  most  profitable  ways  to  camp 
out  is  to  cruise  *  the  entire  length  of  some  attractive  river. 
Since  much  of  the  pleasure  in  such  a  trip  lies  in  the  ever- 
changing  scenery,  the  occasional  visits  to  the  towns  and 
villages  through  which  the  river  flows,  and  the  preparation 
of  the  evening  meal,  it  is  not  necessary  to  select  a  river 
noted  for  its  wildness. 

Our  smaller  rivers  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  the 
muddy  and  the  sandy  bottomed.  There  is  a  monotony 
about  a  river  of  the  former  class  as  it  takes  its  wind- 
ing course,  almost  hidden  by  immense  marches  of  sedge- 
grass.  Here  the  boat-tailed  blackbird  builds  his  nest  and 
the  muskrat  constructs  his  house  well  out  of  reach  of  the 
spring  freshets.  There  is  nothing  to  break  this  monotony 
except  now  and  then  a  strip  of  woods  or  a  muddy  bank 
bristling  with  forked  sticks  left  by  some  midnight  pout- 
fisher.  The  current  is  sluggish,  but  extremely  hard  to 
paddle  against.  There  are  no  rapids  worth  mentioning, 
but  numerous  rocks  just  showing  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  invariably  covered  with  small  turtles.  There 
are;  only  two  redeeming  features  to  such  a  river — its  lilies 
and  its  fish. 

In  strong  contrast  to  this  class  is  the  sandy  river  which 
rushes  over  a  pebbly  bottom  often  at  a  depth  not  exceeding 
a  few  feet,  now  flowing  placidly  along,  on  the  one  side  a 
heavily  wooded  bank,  on  the  other  waving  meadows  ex- 

1  See  Doctor  Swan's  detailed  explanations  of  canoeing,  Chapter  XVII. 

44 


CHOOSING    A    CAMP-SITE 


tending  back  to  the  distant  hills.  Short  sets  of  rapids  are 
numerous,  not  heavy  nor  rough,  for  the  water  scarce  reaches 
one's  waist,  but  with  just  that  spice  of  danger  which  renders 
running  them  exciting.  As  the  river  widens  and  the  cur- 
rent lessens,  announcing  the  approach  of  a  dam,  pickerel  and 
perch  may  be  taken  out  with  a  spoon -hook. 

If  possible,  select  a  river  that  takes  its  rise  in  a  large  lake 
or  flows  into  another  river.  Thus  one  may  start  within  a 
few  miles  of  home,  and  after  a  river  cruise  of  ten  days  go 
into  permanent  camp  one  hundred  miles  away.  For  ex- 
ample, we  started  within  fifteen  miles  of  Worcester,  Massa- 
chusetts, and  after  a  one-hundred-and-ten-mile  paddle  on 
the  Nashua  and  Merrimac  rivers,  went  into  camp  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  New  Hampshire. 

The  selection,  of  a  suitable  place  in  which  to  pass  the 
night  while  on  a  river  cruise  is  a  matter  of  considerable  im- 
portance, since  much  of  the  real  camp  life  is  included  in  the 
preparation  of  the  evening  meal  and  camp  for  the  night. 
This  selection  should  not  be  delayed  too  long,  lest  you  find 
yourselves,  with  twilight  fast  coming  on,  hurriedly  paddling 
along,  looking  eagerly  for  any  place  where  you  may  haul 
out  your  canoes  for  the  night.  Often  during  the  afternoon 
you  will  pass  an  attractive  spot  or  deserted  building  on  the 
shores  of  the  river;  then,  if  the  day  be  not  too  early,  stop 
and  make  your  camp.  Time  is  not  so  valuable  to  the  canoe- 
ist but  that  two  or  three  hours  can  be  sacrificed  for  a  com- 
fortable camp  at  night. 

Perhaps  a  few  words  in  regard  to  running  rapids  will  be 
a  fitting  close  to  this  article.  In  running  down  a  set  of 
rapids  bear  in  mind  that  unless  you  move  more  rapidly  than 

45 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


the  current  you  can  have  no  control  over  your  craft.  Kneel 
down  in  your  canoe,  and  having  determined  your  course, 
which  will  naturally  be  in  the  channel  or  quieter  part  of  the 
river,  enter  the  rapids  at  full  speed.  On  striking  a  rock, 
unless  you  can  instantly  free  yourself,  jump  into  the  river, 
or  your  canoe  will  swing  broadside  in  the  current  and  cap- 
size. Always  jump  out  above  the  canoe  or  it  will  sweep 
down  upon  you  with  unpleasant  results.  On  encountering 
a  long  set  of  rapids  while  cruising  up  a  river,  where  a  ' '  carry  " 
is  impossible,  don  your  bathing-suit  and  prepare  for  the  worst. 

The  domestic  camping,  which  is  the  subject  of  this  section, 
usually  means  access  to  fresh  milk  and  other  home  supplies. 
Therefore,  it  is  not  necessary  to  consider  the  question  of 
supplies  so  carefully  as  in  the  case  of  a  wilderness  trip  which 
is  planned  for  in  the  list  given  below.  But  it  will  be  con- 
venient to  have  some  suggestions  at  the  outset  before  we 
enter  upon  the  details  of  camp  cookery  which  are  explained 
for  domestic  campers  later  in  Chapter  VII,  and  for  organ- 
ized camps  and  wilderness  camps  in  Part  IV. 

The  list1  given  below  is  useful  as  indicating  amounts,  and 
also  in  the  main  necessities. 

Cooking  Utensils 

If  you  are  to  hire  a  guide,  he  will  supply  all  the  kitchen 
utensils,  but  when  you  expect  to  do  your  own  cooking  the 
following  list  of  dishes  will  be  found  sufficient  to  prepare  all 
meals  for  three  men  on  a  month's  trip: 

1  From  Camp  Fires  in  the  Wilderness,  by  E.  W.  Burt,  Forest  and 
Stream  Publishing  Co. 

46 


CHOOSING   A   CAMP-SITE 


Two  frying-pans.  These  can  be  fitted  with  two  rings 
under  the  handle,  in  which  a  stick  can  be  inserted  to  reach 
over  a  hot  fire. 

Two  granite  iron  saucepans.  Never  take  a  tin  saucepan, 
as  the  fire  will  melt  the  solder. 

Two  granite  iron  coffee-pots,  one  for  making  coffee,  the 
other  for  tea. 

Three  large  iron  spoons,  six  teaspoons,  four  knives  and 
forks,  one  wire  broiler,  six  tin  cups,  six  tin  plates,  one  buck- 
wheat spade,  salt  and  pepper  shakers,  one  small  lantern  to 
use  around  camp,  six  candles,  one  kerosene-oil  can,  one  cook- 
oven,  called  a  ''Dutch  oven."  This  is  the  only  thing  you 
can  make  bread  with  by  an  open  fire.  It  is  made  of  zinc, 
V-shaped,  about  eighteen  inches  long,  with  shelf  containing 
a  shallow  pan.  These  ovens  are  faced  toward  the  fire,  and 
the  heat  from  hot  ashes  will  soon  make  very  good  bread. 
Two  tin  pails  are  very  useful  around  camp  for  carrying 
drinking-water.  It  is  much  better  to  broil  meat,  fish,  or 
bacon,  rather  than  to  fry  it,  as  greasy  cooking  is  unhealth- 
ful  and  soon  becomes  distasteful,  while  a  nicely  broiled 
steak  with  a  little  butter  is  always  acceptable. 

Provision  Supply 

Of  all  his  problems,  that  of  the  provision  supply  is  the 
hardest  for  the  camper  to  solve,  but  after  many  trips  I  have 
been  able  to  make  a  list  of  the  supplies  that  would  be  con- 
sumed by  two  men  and  one  guide  on  a  two-weeks  trip,  and 
one  can  add  to  the  list  as  he  may  choose.  Of  course,  the 
amount  to  be  taken  depends  upon  the  means  of  transporta- 
4  47 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


tion  and  upon  possible  additions  to  the  supply  en  route  by 
hunting  and  fishing.  As  a  rule,  only  plain,  substantial  food 
should  be  taken.  That  is  the  kind  you  will  need.  Deli- 
cacies should  be  left  at  home.  Pie  and  cake  are  not  food 
for  hill  -  climbing.  Bread,  meat,,  vegetables,  and  fruit  are 
what  you  need,  and  these  should  be  of  the  best  quality. 
Evaporated  fruits  are  so  good  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  buy 
canned  goods  and  fill  up  space  with  tin  and  water.  Best  of 
all  will  be  found  the  famous  Boston  canned  beans. 

All  provisions  should  be  carried  in  strong  canvas  bags, 
tied  at  the  top  with  a  string.  Never  risk  carrying  them  in 
paper  bags. 

LIST  FOR  THREE  MEN  ON  A  TWO-WEEKS  CAMPING  TRIP 


15  pounds  hard  bread 
15  pounds  bacon  in  bag 
3  pounds  dried  apples 
2  pounds  dried  prunes 

2  pounds  salt  in  bag 
5  pounds  sugar 

5  pounds  coffee  in  tight  can 
\  pound  tea  in  can 

5  cans  condensed  cream 

6  cans  Boston  baked  beans 

3  cans  chicken 

5  pounds  butter 
5  pounds  lard 


5  pounds  white  flour 
10  pounds  Indian  meal 

2  packages  buckwheat  flour 

2  packages  oatmeal 

\  bushel  potatoes 
10  pounds  onions 

i  pound  baking-powder 

\  pound  pepper 

1  quart  vinegar 

2  gallons  maple  syrup 

1  jar  pickles 

2  bottles  ketchup 
2  dozen  eggs 


The  cost  of  these  supplies  should  amount  to  about  twenty 
or  twenty-five  dollars. 


Chapter  V 

TENTS   AND   TENT-MAKING 

A~3.MY  tents,  only  slightly  defective,  may  be  bought 
from  dealers  in  second-hand  government  supplies. 
They  are  made  of  lo-ounce  double-filling  army  duck,  which 
is  the  strongest  material,  and  this  is  the  most  serviceable 
cloth  if  one  wishes  to  make  one's  own  tent,  which  should 
be  10  x  12  for  a  party  of  four. 

The  tent  is  the  all-important  thing,  and  to  make  one  large 
enough  for  two  or  three  boys  is  not  a  difficult  matter.  What 
the  boy  does  not  know  on  his  first  camping  expedition, 
necessity  will  teach  him,  and  much  satisfaction  may  be  had 
in  constructing  bunks  and  tables  and  the  other  varied  parar 
phernalia  of  camp  life. 

A  Tent  of  Medium  Size 

Fig.  i  shows  a  serviceable  and  roomy  tent  and  fly  of 
medium  size,  which  measures  eight  feet  wide,  ten  feet  long, 
and  seven  feet  high  to  the  peak  or  ridge.  The  side  drops  or 
aprons  are  thirty  inches  high,  and  against  them  on  both 
sides  of  the  tent  cots  may  rest  on  the  ground  as  shown  in 
the  illustration. 

49 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


The  fly  is  ten  feet  wide  and  fifteen  feet  long,  and  is  an 
extra  covering  for  the  tent  in  case  of  a  hard  rain-storm; 
while  in  clear  weather  and  with  another  ridge-pole  and  up- 
right, it  can  be  used  to  lengthen  the  tent  by  extending  it 
out  beyond  the  front,  where  it  is  to  be  held  fast  with  stakes 
and  stanchion-ropes. 

The  plan  shown  in  Fig.  2  gives  the  dimensions  of  canvas, 
and  when  the  final  sewing  is  done  the  edges  C  C  at  both 
ends  of  the  tent  are  brought  together  and  securely  overcast 
with  stout  waxed  cord. 

The  only  openings  are  at  front  and  back,  and  they  can  be 
closed  by  means  of  tabs  and  button-holes  at  one  side,  and 
large  bone  buttons  made  fast  to  the  other  edge  in  a  corre- 
sponding position  to  the  tabs. 

Where  the  iron  pins  of  the  uprights  project  through  the 
canvas,  make  a  circular  patch  at  least  six  inches  in  diameter 
with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  the  canvas,  and  sew  it  fast 
both  at  the  hole  and  around  the  outer  edge.  This  will 
strengthen  the  canvas  at  the  most  vital  point,  and  pre- 
vent it  from  tearing  if  a  heavy  wind  should  strain  the 
tent. 

Twilled  cotton  sail-cloth  is  the  proper  material  of  which 
to  make  the  tent,  but  if  this  cannot  be  had,  then  a  stout 
quality  of  unbleached  muslin  will  answer  very  well  for  clear 
weather;  but  in  wet  weather  it  will  not  shed  the  water  so 
well  as  the  twilled  duck.  The  seams  can  be  sewed  on  a 
machine,  but  they  will  be  much  stronger  if  sewed  by  hand 
with  white  cotton  cord  well  waxed.  All  the  edges  of  the 
cloth  should  be  bound  with  rope  about  the  size  and  strength 
of  clothes-line,  so  that  any  attachments  made  to  the  edges 

5° 


/vCT.2 


A  TENT    OF    MEDIUM    SIZE 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


will  be  borne  by  the  rope  instead  of  all  the  strain  coming  on 
the  canvas. 

On  the  dotted  lines  D  D  in  the  plan,  which  indicates  the 
inner  edges  of  the  aprons,  one-inch  harness-rings  are  to  be 
sewed  on  the  straps,  through  which  to  reave  the  guy  and 
stanchion  ropes.  There  should  be  four  straps  to  this  tent, 
making  five  strips  of  canvas  two  feet  wide;  and  these 
strengthening  straps  are  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  width, 
and  made  by  lapping  the  canvas  over  and  sewing  it  along 
both  edges  as  shown  in  the  little  diagram  marked  E  below 
the  plan  in  Fig.  2. 

If  a  closed  end  is  preferred  instead  of  the  flaps  at  the 
rear  of  the  tent,  a  back,  in  one  piece,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  can 
be«made  and  sewed  all  around  the  edges,  bringing  the  edges 
A  A  against  the  edge  B,  and  joining  the  vertical  edges  C  C 
to  the  ends  of  the  side  aprons  on  the  main  sheet. 

For  ventilation,  a  flap  opening  may  be  made  at  the  top 
of  this  end  as  you  can  see  in  Fig.  3;  and  with  tabs  and 
buttons  this  can  be  closed  when  necessary,  or  tied  back 
with  strings,  either  to  the  inside  or  outside  of  the  tent, 
where  they  should  be  caught  to  small  harness -rings  sewed 
to  the  canvas. 

The  fly  is  bound  with  rope  all  around  the  outer  edge, 
from  which  ropes  extend  out  from  each  end,  so  that  in  hot 
weather,  if  the  sun  plays  on  the  tent,  it  may  be  kept  cool 
by  raising  the  outer  ends  of  the  fly  and  propping  them  up 
with  poles  at  the  four  corners,  and  perhaps  one  extra  one 
at  the  middle  of  each  side.  (See  the  illustration  for  the 
canopy  over  the  table  and  seats,  Fig.  10). 

The  ridge-pole  to  hold  up  this  tent  is  of  pine  or  spruce, 

52 


TENTS    AND   TENT-MAKING 


ten  feet  long,  one  inch  and  a  half  thick,  and  four  inches 
wide.  The  uprights  are  two  inches  square,  with  the  sharp 
corners  planed  off,  making  them  octagonal  in  shape,  and 
they  should  be  from  seven  to  nine  feet  in  length.  The 
upper  ends  of  the  uprights  are  bound  with  cord  or  an  iron 
band  to  prevent  them  from  splitting  when  the  iron  pin  is 
driven  in  place.  They  are  to  be  bored  to  receive  a  half- 
inch  pin,  so  that  eight  inches  of  it  will  project  above  the 
top  of  the  upright  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Five-eighth-inch 
holes  are  bored  in  the  ridge-pole  one  inch  and  a  half  from 
each  end,  and  through  these  the  pins  in  the  uprights  will 
pass. 

The  stanchion-ropes  are  caught  around  the  heads  of  long 
pegs  or  stakes,  twenty-four  inches  long,  two  inches  wide, 
and  one  inch  in  thickness,  with  a  notch  cut  three  inches 
from  the  top  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Cleats  four  inches  long, 
two  inches  wide,  and  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  are 
provided  with  two  holes  through  which  the  stanchion-ropes 
pass,  and  they  are  used  to  draw  the  ropes  taut,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  5,  where  the  strain  on  the  long  rope  pulls  the  short  end 
down  and  chocks  the  rope. 

The  stakes  are  to  be  driven  into  the  ground  so  that  but 
five  or  six  inches  of  them  project.  The  lower  they  are  the 
better  purchase  they  get  in  the  ground  and  the  more  securely 
the  tent  is  anchored. 

The  extra  ridge-pole  for  the  fly  can  be  cut  at  one  end  so 
that  it  will  lap  in  a  corresponding  manner  on  the  front  end 
of  the  tent  ridge-pole  as  shown  in  Fig.  6.  For  long  tents, 
where  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  sticks  in  short  lengths,  for 
convenience  in  carrying  them,  the  ridge-pole  can  be  in  two 

53 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


or  three  pieces,  lapped  together  at  the  ends  as  shown  in 
the  figure  drawing,  so  that  the  pin  in  the  upright  will  com- 
plete the  union. 

When  erecting  the  tent,  dig  two  holes  for  the  uprights 
to  rest  in,  and  embed  them  so  that  seven  feet  of  pole  will  be 
above  the  ground,  on  which  the  ridge-pole  will  rest,  and  in 
turn  the  canvas  covering.  The  stakes  are  driven  three  feet 
out  on  either  side  of  the  aprons  so  that  the  stanchion-ropes 
will  line  with  the  pitch  of  the  tent. 

A  Large  Camping-tent 

For  a  company  of  boys  numbering  from  four  to  eight  a 
large  camping-tent  is  shown  in  Fig.  7. 

If  it  is  made  twenty  feet  long,  ten  feet  wide,  and  eight 
feet  high  to  the  ridge-pole,  it  will  accommodate  six  cots  and 
two  hammocks  swung  from  the  ridge-pole. 

A  plan  by  which  to  cut  the  cloth  and  make  the  tent  is 
shown  in  Fig.  8,  and  in  Fig.  9  the  plan  for  the  back  is  given. 
If  an  open  back  be  preferred,  the  flaps  shown  at  the  bottom 
of  Fig.  8  may  be  duplicated  at  the  rear  of  the  tent. 

This  tent,  when  erected,  is  twenty  feet  long  and  eight 
feet  high  from  the  ground  to  the  ridge-pole,  with  the  aprons 
at  the  sides  three  feet  high  instead  of  thirty  inches  as  in  the 
smaller  tent.  Three  uprights  two  inches  and  a  half  square 
support  the  ridge-pole,  which  for  convenience  of  transporta- 
tion may  be  in  two  pieces  and  lapped  at  the  middle  as  shown 
in  Fig.  6. 

This  tent  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  the 
smaller  one,  and  a  fly  twenty-two  feet  long  and  eighteen  feet 

54 


TENTS    AND    CANOPIES 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


wide  is  supported  over  the  tent  where,  in  clear  weather,  it 
can  be  propped  up  at  the  outer  edges  as  shown  at  the  left 
side  of  the  illustration.  The  fly  is  drawn  back  at  the  right 
side  to  show  how  the  guy  and  stanchion  ropes  are  attached 
to  the  stakes,  so  as  to  prevent  the  wind  from  blowing  the 
tent  backward  and  forward  as  well  as  from  side  to  side. 

A  flag-pole  four  feet  high  may  be  erected  on  the  middle 
upright  by  leaving  the  pin  at  the  top  longer,  so  that  it  will 
extend  up  and  into  a  hole  bored  in  the  lower  end  of  the  flag- 
pole. The  lower  end  of  the  pole  must  be  bound  with  cord 
or  wire  to  prevent  splitting.  A  small  pulley  at  the  top,  and 
a  set  of  halyards,  will  make  it  possible  to  raise  a  club  flag 
or  pennant. 

All  around  the  lower  edge  of  the  tent  one-inch  galvanized 
rings  should  be  sewed  fast  about  twelve  inches  apart. 
Through  these  the  apron  and  ends  may  be  tied  fast  to  short 
stakes  or  wooden  pins  driven  in  the  ground.  This  will  be 
quite  necessary  in  the  event  of  a  storm  or  strong  wind,  as 
otherwise  the  lower  part  of  the  tent  will  blow  up  and  flap 
around  in  a  disagreeable  manner. 

When  erecting  a  tent  of  this  size,  care  should  be  taken  to 
anchor  it  securely  and  brace  it  well  with  the  stanchion  and 
guy  ropes,  for  its  size  offers  considerable  resistance  to  a 
strong  wind.  A  little  care  and  forethought  will  sometimes 
avert  a  catastrophe  with  a  tent,  and  when  erecting  one  do 
not  trust  anything  to  luck,  but  snug  your  tent  and  keep 
ropes  taut. 

If  it  is  possible  to  get  some  boards  and  a  few  joist,  it 
would  be  well  to  make  a  flooring,  if  you  are  to  stay  in  one 
place  for  any  length  of  time. 

56 


TENTS  AND   TENT-MAKING 


Always  select  a  level,  dry  place  for  the  tent,  and  if  possi- 
ble erect  it  on  ground  that  is  slightly  higher  than  that 
around  it  so  as  to  drain  the  surface-water  away. 

Flies  and  Canopies 

Every  camping-tent  should  have  a  fly — that  is,  an  extra 
canvas  roof — for  no  matter  how  good  the  canvas  of  which 
it  is  made,  it  will  become  thoroughly  soaked  in  a  heavy 
rain;  but  if  protected  by  a  fly  the  latter  will  lead  the  water 
off  and  receive  the  greater  part  of  the  wetting.  Such  a 
fly  is  shown  clearly  in  the  illustration  of  the  large  camping- 
tent.  Fig.  7. 

The  fly  should  always  be  a  trifle  wider  than  the  tent  is 
long,  and  in  length  it  should  be  long  enough  to  cover  the 
roof  of  the  tent  and  extend  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  be- 
yond the  sides,  where  it  rests  on  the  stanchion-ropes  and  is 
lashed  fast  to  pegs  in  the  ground.  The  overhang,  or  ex- 
tension, leads  the  water  out  beyond  the  apron  of  the  tent 
and  prevents  the  ground  from  becoming  wet  close  to  the 
tent. 

Another  use  for  this  overhang  is  to  prevent  the  rain  driv- 
ing against  the  aprons  of  the  tent  and  wetting  them  close  to 
the  cots.  In  fair  weather,  when  it  is  possible  to  dine  out- 
side the  tent,  the  fly  can  be  used  as  a  canopy,  if  drawn  over 
a  ridge-pole  and  held  up  at  the  ends  by  means  of  poles  and 
stanchion-ropes. 

A  canopy  of  this  kind  is  shown  in  Fig.  10,  where  it  is 
erected  over  a  table  and  seats.  It  is  always  well,  indeed,  to 
have  two  flies  to  a  tent,  so  that  one  can  be  used  for  a  canopy 

57 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


or  an  auxiliary  tent,  under  which  a  fire  can  be  built  and 
meals  cooked  and  eaten  when  it  is  raining. 

For  a  small  camp  a  fly  or  canopy,  twelve  feet  wide  and 
eighteen  feet  long,  will  prove  very  useful  in  many  ways ;  but 
for  a  larger  camp  it  should  measure  fifteen  by  twenty-five 
feet.  Under  one  of  this  size  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  people 
can  be  comfortably  seated,  with  plenty  of  room  all  around. 

Flies  or  canopies  should  be  bound  with  rope  all  around 
the  edges,  and  at  distances  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart  three-quarter-inch  galvanized  rings  should  be  made 
fast.  Through  these  stanchion-ropes  may  be  reared  wherever 
it  is  necessary  to  attach  the  sheet  to  branches  or  poles  set  in 
the  ground. 

A  House-tent 

One  of  the  latest  features  in  the  modern  camp  is  the 
house-tent,  in  which  the  lower  part  is  floored  and  boarded 
half-way  up,  while  the  balance  of  the  sides  and  the  roof  are 
of  canvas.  This  style  of  camp-tent  has  become  very  popu- 
lar in  California  and  through  the  Southwest,  where  at  least 
six  months  of  each  year  are  spent  out-of-doors.  For  the 
boys  who  are  about  to  build  a  permanent  camp  for  several 
years'  use,  a  house-tent  such  as  shown  in  Figs,  n  and  12 
will  prove  very  satisfactory,  and  more  desirable  than  the 
plain  pitched  tent. 

Fig.  ii  shows  the  house-tent  closed  in  stormy  weather 
or  at  night,  while  in  Fig.  12  the  house  is  open  for  fair- 
weather  living.  One  wooden  side  is  let  down  to  form  a 
piazza,  and  the  canvas  side  above  it  is  propped  out  with 
poles  so  as  to  act  as  a  canopy  or  sunshade. 

58 


TENTS    AND    TENT-MAKING 


The  frame  is  twelve  feet  long,  eight  feet  wide,  and  nine 
feet  high  from  the  roof  to  the  peak.  The  wood  sides  are 
three  feet  and  six  inches  above  the  floor,  and  out  beyond 
the  sides  of  the  house  the  joist  may  extend  to  support  one 
or  both  of  the  wooden  sides,  which  can  be  let  down  by  means 
of  hinges  along  the  bottom.  When  the  sides  are  lowered 


they  act  as  piazzas  and  nearly  double  the  floor  space  of  the 
house-tent ;  while  the  canvas  sides,  when  propped  out  with 
long,  slim  poles,  add  equally  to  the  roof  area  in  the  way  of 
sunshades. 

In  Fig.  13  a  clear  idea  is  given  for  the  framing,  which  is 
of  spruce  planed  on  the  four  sides.  The  uprights  and 
rafters  are  of  two-by-three-inch  stock,  while  for  the  under 
timbers  two-by-four  or  preferably  two-by-six  rough  stock 
can  be  used.  The  joist  or  flooring  beams  rest  on  the  ends 
of  posts  embedded  two  feet  in  the  ground,  to  which  they  are 
spiked  with  long,  steel-wire  nails.  The  flooring,  of  four-inch 
matched  boards,  is  laid  on  the  space  within  the  four  corner 
uprights,  and  the  same  or  wider  boards  may  be  employed 
for  the  sheathing. 

59 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


If  both  sides  are  to  let  down,  a  window  can  be  set  only 
at  the  back  of  this  house-tent;  but  if  only  one  side  lets 
down  the  window  may  be  arranged  at  the  enclosed  side  be- 
tween uprights  the  same  as  the  rear  window  is  placed. 

The  triangular  end-pieces  of  canvas  are  attached  to  the 
frame  with  copper  or  tinned  tacks,  so  that  they  will  not 
rust,  arid  the  roof  and  both  sides  are  of  one  piece  made  by 
sewing  together  lengths  of  canvas  or  twilled  sheeting.  At 
the  front  and  back  it  is  drawn  over  the  edges  of  the  end 
rails,  forming  the  roof,  and  tacked  to  hold  it  in  place. 

At  the  front,  on  either  side  of  the  doorway,  the  canvas 
may  be  arranged  to  roll  up  in  clear  weather.  The  rolls  are 
held  to  the  upper  frame-bar  with  cord  or  straps  as  shown 
in  Fig.  12. 

The  front  door  is  thirty  inches  wide  and  is  made  from 
boards  and  battens,  and  provided  with  a  knob  lock  by 
means  of  which  it  can  be  opened  from  either  side. 

The  side  that  lets  down  to  form  the  piazza  is  battened  on 
the  outside,  as  may  be  seen  in  Fig.  n  where  the  house  is 
closed.  When  the  side  is  down  the  battens  drop  in  between 
the  extended  floor  joist  or  beams. 

Folding-cots  can  be  used  in  this  house,  or  bunks  may  be 
built  in  against  the  side  and  end — two  at  the  side  and  one 
at  the  end  under  the  window.  When  the  drop-side  is  up 
and  fastened  for  the  night,  another  cot  can  be  placed  at 
that  side,  while  from  corner  to  corner  a  hammock  may  be 
swung. 

When  camp  is  broken  up  in  the  fall  the  canvas  is  to  be 
removed  from  the  framework  and  kept  for  next  season, 
but  the  frame  may  be  left  standing.  It  would  be  better  to, 

So 


TENTS   AND   TENT-MAKING 


remove  the  door  and  sashes  and  slide  them  under  the  floor, 
for  they  would  offer  too  much  resistance  to  the  wind  if  left 
standing  in  place,  and  might  break  or  cause  the  framework 
of  the  house  to  rack  and  become  rickety  during  the  winter 
storms  and  high  winds. 

A  coat  or  two  of  paint  on  the  wood- work  will  improve  its 
appearance  greatly  and  preserve  the  wood,  if  the  house  is  to 
be  used  for  a  number  of  seasons. 

The  New  Tent 

One  great  drawback  to  the  pitched  or  army  tent  is  that 
in  wet  weather,  when  one  has  to  stay  in-doors,  it  is  not 
a  comfortable  abode  unless  you  sit  down  or  keep  close  to  the 
ground,  for  there  is  little  or  no  head  room. 

In  the  illustration  of  the  new  tent  with  French  roof  (Fig. 
14)  you  can  readily  see  the  great  advantage  of  this  new 
method  of  construction,  for  it  affords  a  great  deal  of  head 
room.  , 

Two  uprights,  three  ridge-poles,  and  four  angle-bars  will 
be  required  for  the  frame,  and  some  long,  slim  poles  with 
crotched  ends  can  be  cut  to  prop  the  guy -ropes  out  from 
the  tent  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  For  a  party  of  three 
or  four  boys  this  tent  should  measure  seven  feet  and  six 
inches  high,  six  feet  and  six  inches  broad  at  the  top,  eight 
feet  at  the  bottom,  and  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep.  The  sides 
and  top  are  in  one  piece,  twenty-one  feet  long  and  ten  or 
twelve  feet  wide.  The  rear  end  is  made  in  one  piece  and 
sewed  fast  to  the  edges  of  the  sides  and  top. 

At  the  front  two  flaps  are  sewed  to  the  top  and  sides. 

6 1 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


They  each  measure  seven  feet  and  six  inches  long  at  the 
inner  edge,  four  feet  across  the  bottom,  three  feet  and  five 
inches  at  the  top,  and  seven  feet  long  at  the  outer  edge. 
They  are  cut  as  shown  in  Fig.  15  A,  and  when  the  tent  is 
set  up  the  canvas  will  appear  as  shown  in  Fig.  15  B. 

The  frame  is  composed  of  two  uprights  two  inches  square 
and  nine  feet  long,  eighteen  inches  of  which  is  set  into  the 
ground.  There  are  three  ridge-poles  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter and  ten  feet  long;  and  four  brace -bars  two  inches 
square,  four  feet  and  three  inches  long,  bevelled  at  the  lower 
ends  to  fit  against  the  upright  post  as  shown  at  Fig.  16  A. 
An  iron  pin  (Fig.  16  D)  is  driven  in  the  top  of  each  upright 
and  at  the  outer  ends  of  the  brace-bars  over  which  the  ridge- 
poles fit,  they  having  been  provided  with  holes  for  the  pur- 
pose. Angle-irons  are  screwed  fast  to  the  bevelled  ends  of 
the  brace -bars,  and  a  collar  of  iron  is  made  and  screwed  to 
the  uprights  so  that  the  tongue  end  of  the  angle-irons  will 
fit  in  them  as  shown  at  Fig.  16  B.  Stout  screw-eyes  and 
wire  hold  the  braces  in  position  at  the  top,  as  shown  at  Fig. 

1 6  C,  and  so  prevent  the  outer  ridge-poles  from  straining  the 
canvas. 

One  of  the  best  anchorages  for  the  guy-ropes  of  a  tent  is 
made  with  the  lock-stake  and  deadeye  cleat  shown  at  Fig. 

17  A.     A  stake  with  a  notch  to  hold  the  rope  is  driven  into 
the  ground,  and  another  notched  stake  is  driven  in  close  to 
the  head,  so  that  when  in  far  enough  the  notch  in  the  latter 
will  hold  the  head  of  the  former  as  shown  at  Fig.  17  B. 
The  deadeye  cleat  is  cut  from  hard-wood  seven-eighths  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  is  two  inches  wide,  six  inches  long,  and 
provided  with  two  holes  three  inches  apart.     At  one  end  a 

62 


THE    NEW    TENT 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


jaw  is  cut,  so  that  a  rope  may  be  caught  in  it  as  shown  in 
Fig.  17  A.  Steel- wire  nails  are  passed  through  the  holes 
indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  170,  and  riveted  at  the 
point  ends  to  strengthen  the  deadeyes. 

The  manner  in  which  it  is  used  is  shown  at  Fig.  17  A,  and 
if  the  holes  are  made  the  same  size  as  the  diameter  of  the 
rope,  the  harder  you  pull  on  the  tent  end  of  the  rope,  the 
more  securely  the  deadeye  cleat  holds,  and  the  loose  end 
of  the  rope  caught  first  in  the  jaw  can  be  given  a  turn  or 
two  around  the  cleat  to  make  it  fast. 

The  double -peg  anchorage  is  better  than  a  single  one, 
and  with  this  new  rope -fastener  it  will  be  an  easy  matter 
to  stay  a  tent  to  withstand  any  wind-storm. 


Chapter  VI 

HOW   TO    FIT    OUT   THE   CAMP 

IF  there  are  balsam  trees  near  camp  the  majority  of  old 
campers  will  recommend  a  bed  of  small  balsam  boughs, 
neatly  and  smoothly  thatched,  with  the  points  toward  the 
head.  Over  this  put  a  rubber  blanket  and  one  woollen 
blanket.  A  strong  pillow-case  can  be  stuffed  with  balsam 
twigs,  hay,  or  anything  suitable.  Sleeping-bags  are  not 
recommended  for  summer  camping. 

But  cots  are  very  useful.  Folding  cots  can  be  bought,  or 
cots  may  be  made  either  of  canvas  and  poles  or  of  boughs  and 
leaves.  The  canvas  cot  may  seem  to  some  more  comfort- 
able than  boughs,  but  it  is  not  always  available. 

A  simple  canvas  cot  is  easily  made  from  two  pine  or  spruce 
sticks  seven  feet  long,  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  free  from 
knots  or  sappy  places.  A  piece  of  light  canvas  or  twilled 
cotton  duck  fifty-four  inches  wide  and  seventy-two  inches 
long  is  sewed  together  so  as  to  form  a  cylindrical  case 
thirty- six  inches  wide  and  seventy-two  inches  long.  Lay 
it  flat  and  crease  it  along  the  edges,  then  run  two  or  three 
lines  of  stitching  along  both  sides  four  inches  in  from  the 
edges.  This  forms  the  sleeve  through  which  the  poles  are 
to  be  passed. 

65 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Crotched  sticks  are  to  be  embedded  in  the  ground  to  sup- 
port the  ends  of  the  poles  as  shown  in  Fig.  i .  These  are 
to  extend  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  above  the  ground,  and 
should  be  three  inches  in  diameter  and  quite  strong,  so  as 
to  avoid  breakage  and  a  possible  fall. 

If  a  folding-cot  with  portable  ends  is  desired,  it  can  be 
made  to  appear  as  shown  in  'Fig.  2  by  constructing  two 
folding  ends,  a  middle  pole,  and  four  iron  brace-hooks. 

To  make  the  cot  twenty-six  inches  wide,  procure  the  can- 


Fig.5 


HOW   TO   FIT   OUT   THE    CAMP 

vas  and  poles  as  directed  for  the  first  cot.  Bind  the  ends 
of  the  poles  with  wire  or  have  a  blacksmith  band  them  with 
iron  ferrules,  then  bore  the  ends  and  drive  threaded  pins  in, 
having  nuts  at  the  ends  as  shown  at  Fig.  3  A.  From 
maple  or  oak  two  inches  wide  and  an  inch  thick  cut  four 
legs  thirty-two  inches  long,  and  bore  holes  at  one  end  and 
midway  between  ends,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3  B,  to  receive  the 
bolt  ends  in  the  poles.  Bevel  off  the  lower  ends  of  the  sticks 
and  place  them  in  opposite  directions,  so  that  when  opened, 
in  the  form  of  an  X,  the  ends  will  lie  flat  on  the  ground  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  From  pine  or  spruce  cut  a  stick  two  inches 
square,  and  provide  the  ends  with  bolts  and  nuts  as  shown 
in  Fig.  3  C.  This  is  for  the  under  brace,  and  extends  from 
end  to  end  where  the  bolt  passes  through  both  legs,  and  is 
attached  with  a  nut  and  washer. 

From  iron  an  inch  wide  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness  have  a  blacksmith  cut  four  hook-braces  eigh- 
teen inches  long  with  a  hole  at  one  end  and  a  notch  at  the 
other.  With  round-headed  screws  attach  two  of  the  braces 
near  each  end  of  the  pole,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3  C,  so  that 
when  the  cot  is  set  up  the  notches  will  hook  over  screws 
driven  in  the  upper  edge  of  each  leg  near  the  bottom  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  These  will  steady  the  cot,  and  prevent 
it  from  rocking  from  end  to  end  as  it  would  do  if  not 
braced. 

A  hammock  that  can  be  swung  between  the  uprights  of  a 
tent  is  made  of  canvas  thirty  inches  wide  and  seventy-two 
inches  long.  It  is  lapped  over  at  the  ends  and  sewed  with 
several  lines  of  stitching,  so  as  to  receive  a  two-inch  bar  to 
which  the  three  ropes  are  made  fast  as  shown  in  Fig.  4. 

67 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


The  end  ropes  should  be  twenty-four  inches  long  and  the 
middle  one  eighteen.  From  the  bars  at  each  end  they  are 
brought  together  and  bound  to  rings  which  slip  over  hooks 
made  fast  to  the  tent  uprights,  or  they  can  be  lashed  fast 
to  the  uprights.  Any  number  of  these  hammocks  may  be 
made  and  easily  carried,  as  they  roll  up  snugly  and  occupy 
very  little  room  in  a  bedding-kit.  They  are  much  easier  to 
handle  than  a  woven  or  braided  hammock,  the  strands  of 
which  are  forever  catching  in  everything  and  anything  with 
which  they  come  into  contact. 

When  making  a  cot  of  boughs  the  most  satisfactory  and 
comfortable  affair  is  the  basket-woven  or  lattice  mattress  of 
small,  pliable  saplings  trimmed  and  interwoven  as  shown 
in  Fig.  5.  The  long  pieces  should  be  alternated  so  that  the 
large  end  of  one  stick  will  be  next  the  small  end  of  another, 
and  thus  distribute  the  strain  evenly  over  the  lattice.  This 
arrangement  applies  also  to  the  shorter  or  cross-pieces,  and 
when  finished  the  mattress  is  laid  on  a  pair  of  poles  supported 
with  crotched  sticks,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i,  but  without  the 
canvas. 

Over  this  lattice  short  twigs  with  clusters  of  leaves  are 
spread,  to  make  a  soft  mattress,  and  on  these  in  turn  a 
blanket  or  two  can  be  spread  and  tied  down  at  the  corners, 
so  that  the  leaves  may  not  become  dislodged. 

Tables  and  Benches 

Every  boy  should  know  how  to  make  a  table  from  some 
fence  boards,  a  rail  or  two,  and  stakes  for  the  legs.  The 
table  shown  in  Fig.  6  is  made  from  three  boards  about 

68 


HOW   TO   FIT   OUT   THE   CAMP 

eight  inches  wide  and  five  feet  long  battened  together  at 
the  ends  and  across  the  under  side  of  the  middle. 

A  rail  is  nailed  across  two  tree-trunks  thirty-two  inches 
from  the  ground,  to  which  one  end  of  the  boards  are  at- 
tached. Two  stakes  three  inches  thick  are  driven  in  the 
ground  four  feet  from  the  trees,  and  across  the  upper  ends 
of  them  a  rail  is  nailed  fast  to  support  the  other  ends  of  the 
boards. 

A  larger  table  is  shown  in  Fig.  7,  and  like  the  smaller  one 
it  is  built  against  two  trees.  The  boards,  three  or  four  in 
number,  should  be  from  six  to  eight  feet  long.  They  are 
nailed  fast  to  four  or  five  inch  rails  attached  to  the  tree- 
trunks  and  to  stout  posts  embedded  in  the  ground.  The 
middle  of  the  table  is  supported  by  a  batten,  or  rail,  which 
is  nailed  fast  to  the  top  of  a  post  embedded  under  the  centre 
of  the  table. 

Chairs  made  for  camp  life  from  rustic  wood  and  pieces  of 
board  need  not  be  so  well  constructed  that  any  great  amount 
of  time  should  be  expended  on  them,  but  they  should  be 
strong  and  serviceable. 

A  simple  chair  that  any  boy  can  make  from  branches  or 
small  tree-trunks,  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  is  shown 
in  Fig.  8.  The  seat  is  eighteen  inches  high,  sixteen  inches 
square,  and  the  back  posts  are  thirty-six  inches  high.  Two 
pieces  of  wood,  eighteen  inches  long,  are  cut  as  shown  at 
Fig.  9  A,  and  two  more,  thirty-six  inches  long,  are  cut  as 
shown  at  B.  The  laps  are  cut  out  with  saw  and  chisel  so  as 
to  receive  the  seat-rails,  the  braces,  and  the  back  board, 
which  are  made  fast  with  steel- wire  nails  as  shown  at  C. 
The  seat  is  made  of  ordinary  boards  nailed  to  the  top  edges 

69 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Fig.  9 


of  the  rails  all  around,  and  if  the  edge  is  smoothed  off  there 
will  be  less  liability  to  tear  one's  garments. 

In  the  illustration  of  a  canopy  (Fig.  10,  page  55),  a 
table  and  benches  are  shown.  The  table  is  thirty  inches 
wide  and  five  feet  long,  and  it  can  be  built  either  detached 
or  fast  to  the  ground.  If  the  corner-posts  are  embedded  a 
foot  or  eighteen  inches  in  the  ground  it  will  make  the  table 
firmer  and  less  liable  to  rack  than  if  built  loose  or  detached. 

Two  benches  running  the  length  of  the  tables  are  made 
in  a  similar  manner  to  the  chairs,  but  if  the  corner-posts  or 
legs  are  to  be  embedded  in  the  ground  the  side  braces  will 
not  be  necessary.  The  seat  should  be  eighteen  inches  high, 
sixteen  inches  wide,  and  from  five  to  eight  feet  long,  as  occa- 
sion requires,  and  with  a  middle  brace  it  will  appear  as 
shown  in  Fig.  10. 

70 


HOW   TO    FIT    OUT   THE    CAMP 


Camping   Equipment 

In  fitting  out  for  a  camping  expedition  it  is  always  best 
to  make  a  memorandum  of  the  things  you  will  need  some  time 
before  you  start,  for  so  surely  as  you  do  not  do  this  there 
will  be  some  important  things  forgotten.  The  stuff  that 
will  fill  an  ordinary  clothes-basket  should  be  enough  for  a 
company  of  four  boys,  but  for  a  greater  number  the  supply 
must  be  increased  accordingly. 

In  this  list  there  must  be  included  a  kettle,  two  pans,  tin 
or  enamelled  dishes,  a  frying-pan  or  two,  a  broiler,  a  wooden 
pail  for  water,  and  smaller  tin  pails;  a  lantern,  candles, 
matches  in  tin  boxes,  hatchet  or  axe,  blankets,  knives  and 
forks,  spoons,  and  a  few  other  culinary  accessories.  The 
dry  groceries  will  have  to  be  taken  from  home,  unless  they 
can  be  purchased  near  the  camp  or  from  some  farm-house. 
From  the  latter  it  is  generally  possible  to  obtain  butter, 
milk,  eggs,  a  chicken  or  two,  and  other  food  that  you  may 
stand  in  need  of  if  hunting  or  fishing  fail  you. 

In  Fig.  n,  showing  a  corner  of  the  tent,  a  portable 
table  is  supporting  some  of  the  things  it  would  be  well 
to  have  in  camp,  and  while  a  boy  may  think  that  he 
knows  what  is  wanted,  it  would  be  well  for  him  to  take 
his  mother's  or  older  sister's  advice  on  the  subject. 

Lockers  and  Mess-kits 

Lock-boxes  with  handles,  in  which  to  store  dry  groceries 
and  foods,  and  mess-kits  for  the  kitchen  and  dining  ware, 
are  among  the  most  important  parts  of  the  camping  outfit. 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


They  may  be  made  from  ordinary  well-constructed  boxes, 
and  provided  with  hinged  lids,  a  hasp  and  padlock,  and 
handles  at  either  end  by  means  of  which  they  may  be  carried 
easily. 

The  lock-box  shown  in  Fig.  12  A  is  eighteen  inches  wide, 
twenty-four  inches  long,  and  twelve  inches  deep,  and  with 
two  thin  boards  four  compartments  are  made  as  shown  in 
Fig.  12  A.  A  lid  is  made  of  three  boards  and  two  battens, 
and  securely  attached  to  the  box  with  strap  hinges. 

A  hasp  and  padlock  as  well  as  two  handles  can  be  pur- 
chased at  a  hardware  store  and  screwed  fast  to  the  chest. 

A  mess-kit  may  be  made  of  a  box  with  both  lid  and  bottom 
nailed  on  securely.  It  is  then  sawed  around  three  inches 
from  one  side,  dividing  it  so  that  quite  a  little  of  the  wood 
is  fast  to  both  sides.  With  hinges  these  are  fastened  to- 
gether like  a  Gladstone  bag,  and  on  the  inside,  pockets  and 
straps  can  be  arranged  to  accommodate  cooking-utensils 
and  food-stuffs.  Fig.  12  B  shows  this  kit,  and  with  a  trunk- 
strap  and  a  rope  it  can  be  easily  carried  from  place  to  place. 

For  knives,  forks,  spoons,  kettle-lids,  and  other  small  para- 
phernalia of  the  camping  outfit  a  nest  of  pockets  may  be 
made  from  denim  or  unbleached  muslin,  like  the  one  shown 
hanging  on  the  wall  in  Fig.  1 1 .  The  pockets  are  commodi- 
ous and  will  accommodate  many  little  things,  and  the  nest 
can  be  folded  over  and  tied  at  the  corners  with  stout  cord. 
A  nest  of  this  description  should  be  three  feet  long,  thirty 
inches  high,  and  with  three  lines  of  pockets  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  The  sewing  should  be  done  by  hand  with 
heavy  linen  or  carpet  thread,  so  that  the  stitching  will  not 
break. 

72 


HOW   TO   FIT   OUT   THE    CAMP 


Fig.  13 

^ 


A  carry-all  (Fig.  13)  is  made  of  denim  or  light  sail-cloth, 
and  will  be  found  the  most  convenient  sort  of  a  catch-all, 
for  it  may  be  folded  over  and  rolled  up,  then  bound  with  a 
shawl-strap  to  carry  it  easily. 

73 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


A  piece  of  denim  a  yard  wide  and  forty-two  inches  long 
is  folded  at  the  dotted  lines  A  A  as  shown  in  the  plan  (Fig. 
14) .  The  edges  will  then  reach  the  lines  B  B.  Sew  the  flaps 
at  the  two  ends  and  divide  the  long  pockets  into  smaller 
ones  as  shown  in  Fig.  13.  Knives,  forks,  spoons,  and  a 
variety  of  small  things  can  be  kept  in  this  nest  of  pockets, 
and  when  in  camp  it  may  be  hung  from  one  end  by  rings,  so 
that  the  pockets  occupy  a  horizontal  position  and  the  con- 
tents can  be  easily  gotten  at. 


Chapter  VII 

CAMP-FIRES    AND    SIMPLE    COOKING 

HERE  is  a  simple  camp  range  which  "Nessmuk"  and 
many  others  have  approved.  Two  logs  six  feet  long 
and  eight  inches  thick  are  laid  side  by  side  some  eight  or 
ten  inches  apart  at  one  end  and  four  at  the  other.  They 
are  bedded  firmly,  flattened  on  the  inside,  and  levelled  on 
top.  A  forked  stake  is  driven  in  at  either  end  of  the  space, 
and  a  cross-pole  laid  on  for  kettles.  Start  the  fire  with  fine 
kindling  and  dry  hemlock  bark,  keep  it  up  with  short  sticks 
of  black  birch,  hickory,  sugar  maple,  yellow  birch,  or  red  birch. 

The  permanent  camper  can  make  a  stone  stove  similar 
to  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  i .  This  holds  the  fire  within  the 
stone  enclosure,  and  retains  the  greater  part  of  the  heat. 

Flat  stones  should  be  used  in  the  construction  of  this 
stove,  and  if  it  is  possible  to  get  some  clay  from  the  bed  of  a 
brook  it  can  be  used  in  place  of  cement  for  sealing  the  joints. 
This  of  course  will  make  the  fire  burn  better,  as  the  only 
draught  will  then  enter  at  the  bottom,  or  doorway,  through 
which  the  sticks  are  fed  to  the  fire. 

These  doorways  or  draught-holes  should  be  made  on 
two  or  three  sides  of  the  stove,  and  when  one  is  in  use 
the  other 3  may  be  closed  or  left  open,  according  to  the 

75 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


strength  of  the  wind  and  the  direction  from  which  it  is 
blowing. 

The  pot  should  be  hung  on  the  ridge-pole  so  that  it 
touches  the  top  of  the  stove  and  holds  in  the  heat..  Fish 
may  be  fried  in  a  pan  or  broiled  much  better  than  over  an 
open  fire,  and  water  can  be  boiled  quicker  and  coffee  made 
easier. 

This  stove  can  be  made  either  round  or  square,  and  if 
bricks  are  available  for  use  they  will  be  better  than  stones 
as  the  joints  are  closer  and  they  are  not  so  ungainly  to 
handle.  Over  the  stove  a  ridge-pole  or  bar  should  be  sup- 
ported on  a  yoked  stick  at  one  end  and  a  twin-stick  tripod 
at  the  other.  The  yoked  or  crotched  stick  is  embedded  in 
the  ground,  or  it  can  be  the  sawed-off  stump  of  a  small  tree. 
The  lower  ends  of  the  twin  sticks  should  be  let  into  the 
ground  for  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches,  so  that  the  ridge-bar 
can  be  removed  without  its  supports  falling  over. 

Always  build  a  fire  or  a  stove  in  the  shade,  for  it  will  not 
burn  so  well  if  the  sun  plays  on  it.  In  rainy  weather  a 
canopy  over  this  stone  stove  will  keep  it  dry  and  cause  it  to 
burn  better  than  if  exposed  to  the  elements. 

Here  are  some  other  ideas  for  camp-fires  proper.  Let 
us  suppose  that  the  party  is  provided  with  the  neces- 
sary utensils  for  camp-cooking — a  camp-kettle,  coffee-pot, 
frying-pan,  saucepan,  and  some  sort  of  baking-pan.  These 
should  prove  sufficient,  unless  the  party  intends  having  quite 
elaborate  menus.  If  it  is  intended  to  remain  at  the  camp 
only  while  cooking  one  or  two  meals,  make  your  fire  in  this 
manner:  Cut  two  green  poles  about  five  or  six  inches  thick 
and  about  two  feet  long.  In  these  cut  notches  about  a  foot 

76 


CAMP-FIRES    AND    SIMPLE    COOKING 

apart.  Level  the  ground  where  you  intend  to  build  your 
fire,  and  lay  these  poles  down  with  the  notches  up  and  about 
three  feet  apart.  Now  cut  two  or  three  poles  about  four 
feet  long  and  lay  them  in  these  notches.  Gather  a  good 


Fig.  3 


Fig.   1 


Fig.   4 

77 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


supply  of  dry  wood,  grass,  bark,  or  chips,  and  make  your 
fire  on  the  ground  between  the  poles.  The  air  will  circulate 
under  and  through  the  fire,  and  the  poles  will  prove  just 
right  to  set  your  cooking-utensils  on.  Do  not  pile  on  wood 
by  the  armful.  Add  a  little  at  a  time,  and  you  will  find  you 
can  cook  rapidly  and  well,  and  not  burn  your  face  and  hands 
while  attending  to  your  cooking. 

If  it  is  intended  to  remain  several  meals  at  the  camp  it 
will  pay  to  put  up  a  crane.  This  is  built  in  this  manner: 
Cut  two  green  posts  two  or  more  inches  thick  and  three  feet 
long,  having  forks  at  one  end.  Drive  these  into  the  ground 
at  each  end  of  your  fire.  Cut  another  green  pole  the  same 
diameter  and  long  enough  to  reach  between  the  forks. 
Flatten  the  ends  so  that  they  will  set  snug  in  the  forks. 

The  poles  should  be  driven  into  the  ground  so  that  when 
the  bail  of  the  kettle  is  slipped  on  the  crane  the  bottom  of 
the  kettle  will  just  clear  the  fire. 

If  the  camp  is  to  be  of  a  permanent  nature,  or  it  is  expect- 
ed to  remain  there  for  some  days  or  weeks,  it  will  be  well  to 
arrange  for  a  better  kitchen  that  will  not  be  affected  by  the 
winds,  the  bete  noire  of  camp-cooking.  Dig  a  trench  (cutting 
the  sides  square)  as  long  as  the  distance  between  your  up- 
rights, and  about  eighteen  inches  wide  and  a  foot  deep. 
Make  your  fire  in  this  hole,  on  the  ground,  and  you  will  find 
that  the  wind  will  not  worry  you  one-half  as  much  as  before 
(Fig.  2).  If  you  wish  to  take  the  trouble,  and  the  material 
is  handy,  the  plan  in  Fig.  4  is  a  most  excellent  one  to  follow. 
Wall  up  the  sides  of  the  trench  with  brick,  add  a  little 
chimney  at  one  end,  and  get  several  iron  "S"  hooks  from 
which  to  suspend  your  kettles.  This  will  save  the  lifting  of 

78 


CAMP-FIRES    AND    SIMPLE    COOKING 

the  crane  every  time  you  wish  to  handle  the  kettles  suspend- 
ed over  the  fire.  By  this  method  you  will  economize  on  fuel 
and  save  heat. 

The  plan  used  in  the  army  for  camp-cooking  and  described 
below  is  the  best  for  all-around  work.  To  make  this 
kitchen  takes  more  time  and  a  little  more  labor,  but  in  the 
end  the  laborers  will  be  well  paid  for  their  work.  It  is  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  clayey  soil.  Dig  a  hole  about  three 
feet  square  and  two  feet  in  depth,  generally  in  the  slope  of  a 
hill.  On  one  side  run  a  shaft  laterally,  about  one  foot  square 
and  six  feet  in  length,  and  one  foot  from  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  At  the  extreme  end  sink  a  shaft  vertically  and 
form  a  chimney,  and  at  equidistances  pierce  holes  of  suffi- 
cient diameter  to  prevent  the  kettles  from  slipping  through. 
By  this  mode  the  kettles  can  be  placed  over  the  fire  to  boil, 
or  on  the  side  to  simmer,  with  less  difficulty  than  by  any 
other  means.  Fig.  5  A  and  B. 

I  want  to  tell  the  young  camper  how  to  bake  his  own 
bread  in  camp,  so  if  he  camps  far  from  a  store  or  house 
where  he  can  buy  his  bread  he  will  not  have  to  eat  crackers, 
or  those  indigestion-producers,  flapjacks,  that  the  youthful 
camper  knows  how  to  make,  or  thinks  he  does.  I  have 
eaten  many  a  one  in  my  young  days  before  putting  on  the 
"army  blue,"  but  their  weight  in  gold  would  not  induce  me 
to  eat  some  that  I  swallowed  as  a  boy  and  thought  "fine." 
We  will  assume  that  before  going  into  camp  your  dear 
mother  has  taught  you  how  to  mix  a  batch  of  dough  or  a 
pan  of  biscuit.  We  will  now  make  an  oven  in  which  to  bake 
the  bread  or  biscuit.  A  bank  from  four  to  six  feet  is  the  best 
for  the  purpose.  Dig  down  the  bank  to  a  vertical  face,  and  at 
6  79 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


the  base  excavate  a  hole,  say  three  to  four  feet  horizontally, 
care  being  taken  to  keep  the  entrance  as  small  as  possible. 
Hollow  out  the  sides  of  the  excavation  and  arch  the  roof, 


Fig.   6 

till  the  floor  of  the  oven  is  about  two  feet  wide  and  the  arch 
about  sixteen  inches  at  the  centre.     Fig.  6  A  and  B. 

Now  carefully  "tap"  the  back  end  for  the  chimney,  and 
insert  a  piece  of  stove-pipe  if  handy.  A  hole  from  four  to 
six  inches  will  give  a  good  draught.  Wet  the  inside  of  the 

80 


CAMP-FIRES   AND   SIMPLE   COOKING 

oven,  and  smooth  over  the  walls  so  that  the  mud  presents  a 
hard  finish,  and  leave  to  dry  for  a  day.  When  you  are  ready 
to  bake,  build  a  good  fire  in  the  oven,  and  when  it  is  well 
heated  remove  the  fire,  scrape  out  all  ashes,  and  place  the 
pans  of  dough  inside.  Close  up  the  entrance  with  a  board, 
and  cover  with  mud  so  as  to  keep  in  all  the  heat.  With 
proper  care  this  oven  will  last  several  weeks. 

A  bank  may  not  be  handy  in  which  to  build  an  oven  of  the 
kind  described  above;  if  such  proves  the  case,  it  is  not  a 
difficult  matter  to  construct  a  good  oven  on  the  level  ground 
by  following  the  method  below.  If  a  flour-barrel  is  handy, 
use  it;  if  not,  make  use  of  willow  twigs  stuck  in  the  ground 
and  bent  over  so  as  to  form  a  mould.  Over  the  barrel  or 
willow  mould  plaster  a  stiff  mortar  made  of  mud,  commenc- 
ing at  the  base.  Lay  it  on  about  six  inches  thick.  Allow 
it  to  dry  for  a  day  or  two,  and  when  nearly  dry  cut  out  a 
door  at  one  end  and  the  flue  at  the  other.  A  small  mud 
chimney  will  increase  the  draught  if  a  piece  of  stove-pipe  is 
not  at  hand.  If  a  barrel  has  been  used  as  the  mould  it  may 
be  burned  out  without  danger  to  the  oven.  Carefully 
remove  all  dirt,  and  keep  up  a  fire  for  half  a  day  before 
attempting  to  bake.  Fig.  3.  (See  page  77.) 

Camp-cooking 

Even  the  finest  of  camps  is  a  dreary  place  unless  the  com- 
missary department  is  well  organized.  "  Uncle  Harry,"  who 
is  an  old  and  experienced  camper-out,  gives  some  useful  sug- 
gestions to  his  nephews,  and  other  boys  will  doubtless  appre- 
ciate bis  lectures  on  things  culinary. 

Si 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


"Let  us  suppose,"  begins  Uncle  Harry,  "that  you  have 
gotten  the  camp  into  ship -shape  order,  and  after  your  hard 
day's  work  are  ravenously  hungry  and  very  impatient  for 
supper,  or  rather  dinner,  for  the  last  meal  of  the  day  in 
camp  is  always  the  most  important  one.  We  will  appoint 
Aleck  as  cook,  and  while  he  is  busy  over  the  fire  neither  of 
the  others  shall  interfere  with  him  or  his  duties,  for  no  axiom 
is  more  true  than  that  *  too  many  cooks  spoil  the  broth.' 

"Ben  and  Bob  must  see  that  the  cook  is  well  supplied 
with  water  and  has  plenty  of  small-split  firewood  close  at 
hand.  Then  Bob  will  set  the  table,  while  Ben  goes  a-fishing 
and  catches  half  a  dozen  trout  or  other  small  fry  from  the 
lake.  In  the  mean  time  Aleck  has  pared  and  washed  a  dozen 
potatoes.  These  are  placed  in  a  kettle  nearly  full  of  water, 
and  hung  over  the  fire  half  an  hour  before  supper- time.  He 
will  keep  them  boiling  furiously  until  he  can  run  a  sliver  of 
wood  easily  through  the  largest  one.  Then  the  water  must 
be  drained  from  them,  and,  still  in  the  kettle,  they  must  be 
set  aside,  but  near  enough  to  the  fire  to  keep  hot  until 
wanted. 

"Ben's  fish  all  weigh  less  than  a  pound,  and  so  are  too 
small  to  do  anything  with  but  fry.  After  they  are  cleaned, 
Aleck  rolls  them  in  corn-meal  and  lays  them  carefully  in  the 
frying-pan,  which  is  already  on  the  stove,  and  in  which  a 
small  quantity  of  cotton-seed  oil  is  sizzling  merrily.  If  you 
should  have  no  oil,  pork  fat  will  do  nearly  as  well,  only  have 
it  boiling  hot  before  placing  the  fish  in  it. 

"Aleck  has  heard  of  half  a  dozen  methods  of  making 
coffee,  and  hesitates  before  deciding  which  to  try.  He  has 
been  told  to  put  his  coffee  in  cold  water  and  let  it  come  to  a 

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CAMP-FIRES   AND    SIMPLE    COOKING 

boil,  and  that  the  coffee  must  not  see  the  water  until  it  is 
boiling;  he  has  heard  that  coffee  must  never  be  boiled,  and 
that  the  only  way  to  extract  its  strength  is  to  boil  it ;  and  so 
in  thinking  it  all  over  he  is  much  perplexed.  Finally  he  re- 
members a  method  which  his  old  uncle  who  is  in  the  army 
has  mentioned  to  him,  and  decides  to  try  it." 

"Oh,  Uncle  Harry,  you  are  not  a  bit  old,'*  interrupts 
Aleck. 

"In  preparing  coffee  by  his  old  uncle's  method,"  con- 
tinues Captain  Archer,  only  noticing  the  interruption  with 
a  smile,  "Aleck  fills  the  coffee-pot  with  water,  and  sets  it  on 
the  broiler  wires,  which  he  has  laid  across  from  one  log  to 
the  other  of  the  stove.  While  it  is  coming  to  a  boil  he  meas- 
ures out  his  coffee  at  the  rate  of  a  heaping  table-spoonful  for 
each  cup  to  be  made,  puts  it  into  his  tin  cup,  pours  in  all 
the  hot  water  it  will  hold,  and  sets  it  in  a  warm  place  on  the 
stove.  As  soon  as  the  water  in  the  coffee-pot  boils,  he  pours 
off  some,  so  as  to  leave  the  pot  about  three-quarters  full,  and 
empties  in  his  cupful  of  soaked  coffee.  Setting  the  pot  back, 
he  allows  its  contents  to  again  come  to  a  boil,  and  then  lifts 
it  from  the  fire.  He  pours  out  a  tin  cupful  of  the  coffee,  and 
pours  it  slowly  back  into  the  pot,  throwing  away  the  residue 
of  grounds  that  remain  in  the  cup.  For  about  a  minute,  or 
while  the  rest  of  the  dinner  is  being  served,  the  coffee-pot 
stands  in  a  warm  place  near  the  fire,  and  then  its  contents 
are  ready  for  drinking. 

"  If  either  of  you  had  wanted  tea,  Aleck  would  have  put  in 
the  pot  a  teaspoonful  of  tea  leaves  for  each  cup  to  be  made, 
poured  boiling  water  over  it,  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  two 
or  three  minutes,  and  it  would  have  been  ready  for  you. 

83 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


"  Here  you  have  a  plain,  easily  cooked  dinner  of  fried  fish, 
boiled  potatoes,  and  coffee,  to  which  you  can  add  from  your 
supplies  bread  and  butter,  or  crackers,  pickles,  condensed 
milk,  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar.  I  think  you  will  find  it 
enough  for  a  first  experiment. 

"For  breakfast  next  morning  you  will  have  coffee,  fried 
potatoes  and  breakfast  bacon,  and  griddle-cakes." 

"  Oh,  Uncle  Harry,  I  can't  make  griddle-cakes,"  exclaimed 
Aleck. 

"I  think  you  can,  if  I  tell  you  how,  and  you  try  hard. 
At  any  rate,  you  had  better  try,  for  they  enter  largely  into 
the  composition  of  camp  meals.  To  make  the  simplest  flour 
griddle-cakes,  put  into  a  pan  a  quart  of  your  prepared  flour, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  handful  of  corn-meal,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  brown  sugar,  two  eggs,  if  you  have  them,  and  mix 
with  cold  water  into  a  batter.  Stir  thoroughly  until  no 
lumps  are  left,  and  then  fry  on  a  hot  griddle.  In  frying  use 
as  little  grease  as  possible.  More  griddle-cakes  are  spoiled 
by  the  use  of  too  much  grease  in  frying  than  in  any  other 
way.  A  bit  of  pork  rind  or  an  oiled  rag  rubbed  over  the 
griddle  is  sufficient.  Take  turns  in  frying  the  cakes,  so  that 
two  of  you  can  be  eating  them  as  fast  as  they  are  done. 
They  are  only  fit  to  eat  when  hot  from  the  griddle. 

"The  cold  boiled  potatoes  left  from  dinner  the  night  before 
may  be  cut  up  and  fried  with  half  a  dozen  slices  of  breakfast 
bacon,  and  when  all  is  ready  you  will  have  a  breakfast  to 
which  I  think  three  hungry  boys  will  do  ample  justice. 

"When  you  become  tired  of  fish,  catch  frogs.  They  are 
considered  delicacies  on  first-class  tables,  and  add  a  pleasant 
variety  to  a  woodman's  fare.  Catch  them  with  a  light  rod, 

84 


CAMP-FIRES   AND   SIMPLE    COOKING 

short  line,  and  small  hook  baited  with  a  bit  of  scarlet  flannel, 
or  at  night  by  use  of  a  jack-light.  Stupefied  by  its  glare, 
they  will  let  you  pick  them  up.  Kill  your  frog  by  a  tap  on 
the  head,  cut  off  his  thighs  and  hind-legs,  skin  them,  roll 
them  in  Indian-meal,  and  fry  brown  in  hot  oil  or  pork  fat. 

"You  will  also  probably  have  an  opportunity  of  adding 
squirrels  to  your  bill  of  fare.  When  you  have  got  your 
squirrel,  chop  off  his  head,  feet,  and  tail,  cut  the  skin  cross- 
wise of  the  back,  and  strip  it  off  in  two  parts,  fore  and  aft; 
also  cut  the  body  crosswise  into  two  parts.  Throw  them 
into  a  kettle,  and  let  the  hind-quarters  parboil  until  tender. 
Then  fry  them,  until  of  a  rich  brown,  in  oil  or  pork  fat,  hiss- 
ing hot.  Use  the  fore-quarters  for  a  stew. 

"To  make  a  stew  use  almost  any  kind  of  flesh  or  fowl. 
The  chief  thing  to  be  remembered  in  making  a  stew  is  to 
stew  it  enough.  An  old  camp  jingle  runs  thus : 

" '  A  stew  that's  too  little  stewed 
Is  understood  to  be  no  good.' 

"Let  your  meat  boil  for  more  than  an  hour,  or  until  it 
begins  to  fall  from  the  bones.  Add  potatoes,  pared  and 
quartered,  an  onion  sliced,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  thickening 
made  of  flour  and  melted  butter,  to  be  stirred  in  gradually. 

"  In  making  a  meat  soup  provide  plenty  of  meat,  and  do 
not  be  afraid  to  let  it  boil.  It  is  hard  to  boil  it  too  much, 
and  three  hours  is  not  too  long.  When  nearly  done,  scrape 
a  potato  into  the  soup  for  thickening,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper. 

"To  cook  rice,  let  a  cupful  soak  overnight.  In  the  morn- 
ing pour  off  the  water  in  which  it  has  soaked,  place  it  in  a 

85 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


kettle  of  cold  water,  and  boil  it  slowly,  without  stirring, 
until  the  kernels  are  soft.  Remember  to  salt  it.  Rice  is 
good  with  condensed  milk,  sugar,  butter,  or  syrup.  It  is 
good  to  add  to  your  soups  and  stews,  and  it  is  particularly 
good  when  added  to  the  batter  from  which  you  make  your 
griddle-cakes. 

"To  make  mush  stir  corn-meal  into  boiling  water;  season 
with  salt.  Eat  hot  with  syrup.  Save  what  is  left  over,  and 
fry  it  next  morning.  The  same  rule  applies  to  hominy. 

"These  are  the  rudiments  of  camp-cookery.  Not  an  ex- 
tended bill  of  fare,  but  I  think  you  will  find  it  appetizing 
and  nourishing." 

And  the  boys  agreed  with  him. 


Chapter   VIII 

FISHING    RODS    AND    TACKLE 

EVERY  boy  knows  how  to  go  a-fishing,  but  an  intelli- 
gent boy  is  not  long  in  learning  that  the  mere  getting 
of  a  lot  of  fish  is  a  small  part  of  the  pleasure.  That  is  why 
he  prefers  the  rod  to  the  seine,  one  big  fish  to  many  smaller 
ones,  one  cunning  old  trout  or  pickerel  outwitted  to  a  basket 
of  stupid  fish  that  contended  for  the  bait.  Presently  he 
begins  to  desire  more  delicate  tackle,  and  understands  that 
he  is  fishing  for  sport,  not  fish. 

Sportsmanlike   Fishing 

To  begin  with:  The  chief  things  that  make  a  fish  desir- 
able, in  the  sense  of  a  game  or  sport  fish,  are  that  it  shall 
be  good  food,  not  too  common,  and  not  too  easily  caught. 
If,  besides,  it  be  beautiful  and  found  in  beautiful  places,  so 
much  the  better.  It  happens  that  by  common  consent  cer- 
tain fish — salmon  and  trout  and  their  kindred — are  in  Europe 
and  America  esteemed  above  all  others,  but  the  opportunity 
to  angle  for  them  is  not  open  to  every  one,  and  most  boys 
must  get  their  sport  with  other  less-esteemed  kinds.  "Boys' 
fish"  they  are  sometimes  slightingly  called,  but  they  have 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


lots  of  sport  to  give  to  the  boy  who  knows  how  to  get  it, 
and  he  will  get  more  sport  if  he  takes  pains  to  make  the 
fish  better  worth  catching  and  better  worth  having  after 
it  is  caught.  It  is  better  worth  having,  for  instance,  if  you 
have  caught  it  from  the  cleanest  water  you  have  access  to. 
Clean  water  makes  sweet  fish.  If  a  fish  is  to  be  kept,  kill 
it  at  once  by  a  blow  upon  the  back  of  the  head  where  the 
backbone  joins  it.  This  is  not  only  more  merciful,  but 
makes  firmer  meat.  If  one  is  fishing  from  a  boat  or  not 
moving  about  much  the  fish  may  be  kept  alive  in  a  floating 
live-box  or  basket,  and  at  the  end  of  the  fishing  the  best 
may  be  chosen  for  keeping  and  the  rest  let  go.  Fish  are 
sweeter,  too,  if  cleaned  as  soon  as  possible;  besides,  the 
cleaning  is  done  more  easily  if  done  early.  Learn  to  do  it 
well  yourself,  and  try  to  be  at  home  in  time  to  do  it  before 
supper.  Cleaning  fish  by  candlelight  goes  far  to  spoil  the 
sport  of  a  pleasant  day.  Do  not  clean  fish  with  your  pocket- 
knife.  Have  in  your  kit  a  stout  one  for  the  purpose  which 
will  also  cut  bait.  Such  knives,  made  expressly,  are  sold  for 
a  small  sum,  but  a  veteran  kitchen-knife  or  a  broken  table- 
knife,  if  kept  in  order,  will  do  excellent  service. 

Care  and   Patience 

Now,  how  are  you  to  increase  the  sport  of  the  catching  ? 
Of  course  you  want  the  largest  fish,  and  these  are  usually  the 
oldest  and  most  wary.  This  wariness  you  do  not  expect 
to  change,  but  you  hope  to  defeat  it.  Study  the  habits  of  the 
fish,  where  and  when  and  upon  what  it  feeds  or  what  it 
seeks.  Let  your  fishing  be  governed  by  your  discoveries, 

88 


FISHING  RODS   AND   TACKLE 

And  while  you  are  offering  him  what  he  wants  and  when  and 
where  he  wants  it,  remember  these  old  fellows  are  fussy 
about  their  table-service.  They  do  not  feel  hungry  if  a  boy 
throws  his  shadow  across  their  table,  or  shakes  it  by  rushing 
up  to  it.  Stalk  your  fish,  then,  as  quietly  as  you  are  able, 
and  if  you  have  alarmed  it  in  any  way  stay  out  of  sight 
and  remain  as  quiet  as  possible  for  a  long  time  until  your 
clumsiness  is  forgotten,  and  then  let  your  lure,  whether  bait 
or  fly,  drift  into  the  fish's  sight  as  if  you  had  nothing  to 
do  with  it. 

You  want  also  as  good  a  fight  as  you  can  get.  Remember 
that  the  fighting  qualities  of  fish  are  as  a  rule  best  developed 
in  those  which  live  in  rapid  and  turbulent  water,  and  in  those 
which  pursue  their  prey  and  catch  it  by  their  own  nimble- 
ness.  But  any  fish  will  fight  better  if  you  make  the  struggle 
more  even  by  using  delicate  tackle.  You  win  then  only  by 
dexterity  of  handling,  which  is  one  of  the  great  charms  of 
angling,  and  about  the  only  one,  as  regards  the  mere  catch- 
ing of  fish,  on  which  the  experienced  angler  sets  much 
value.  The  secret  of  success  with  delicate  tackle  may  be 
told  in  two  words — care  and  coolness.  Care  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  tackle,  coolness  in  handling  it. 

Tackle 

When  you  put  your  tackle  together  you  will  make  it  far 
safer  if  you  consider  it  as  one  apparatus  or  machine  from 
hook  to  reel  and  if  you  let  the  rod  top,  or  "tip,"  be  the 
weakest  point  of  all,  because  by  it  you  can  best  determine 
the  strain  upon  the  whole  gear.  For  instance,  a  good  line 

89 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


for  fresh-water  fishing  will  usually  lift  at  least  ten  pounds, 
a  good  snell  at  least  three  pounds  if  new,  the  hook  more 
than  the  snell,  while  the  top  of  an  ordinary  light  rod  will 
rarely  bear  more  than  two  pounds  of  dead  weight,  so  that 
you  may  know  by  the  strain  upon  the  top  joint  just  what 
the  tackle  is  bearing;  and  if  the  joint  is  safe  the  whole  is 
likewise  safe. 

By  testing  your  tackle  you  raise  your  fishing  from  a  rough- 
and-ready  guesswork  to  something  like  certainty,  the  one 
point  of  doubt  being  always  the  security  of  the  hook  in  the 
fish's  mouth,  and  even  of  this  you  soon  acquire  the  power 
of  judging.  But  this  testing  is  not  done  once  for  all.  Good 
tackle  which  is  put  away  wet  to  mildew,  or  gut  which  is 
frayed  or  put  in  the  sun  to  rot,  does  not  long  remain  sound. 
Therefore  dry  your  line,  carefully  unwinding  it  from  the 
reel  if  you  have  one  and  winding  it  upon  a  chair-back,  for 
instance,  when  you  come  home.  Look  over  and  test  your 
tackle  every  time  you  are  going  fishing — yes,  and  every  time 
it  gets  caught  on  a  stone  or  stump  or  in  the  bushes — if  you 
wish  to  escape  the  loss  of  your  best  fish. 

The  strain  upon  the  tackle  is  equalized  by  the  elasticity 
of  the  rod,  which  to  some  extent  makes  up  for  want  of 
dexterity.  But  never  have  a  rod  so  flexible  that  it  will  not 
control  the  tackle,  and,  above  all,  avoid  one  which  is  weak 
in  the  middle. 

Lastly,  let  the  fish  do  the  pulling  if  you  wish  to  safely 
handle  it.  No  angling-tackle  is  as  strong  as  a  boy.  But 
if  the  rod  be  so  held  that  its  spring  keeps  the  line  taut  and 
a  gentle,  steady  pull  upon  the  fish  the  latter  soon  exhausts 
himself  fighting  this  elasticity.  Any  excess  of  line  not  easily 

90 


FISHING    RODS   AND    TACKLE 


controlled  by  the  rod  alone  should  be  at  once  taken  up  by 
the  reel.  Draw  the  tired  fish  out  gently,  without 4 '  yanking, ' ' 
or,  if  heavy,  lead  it  into  the  landing-net. 

The  Choice  of  Rods1 

Rods  vary  according  to  the  kind  of  fishing,  and  the  "all- 
round"  fisherman  will  probably  have,  without  being  finicky, 
as  many  rods  as  a  golf-player  has  clubs.  But  the  boy  for 
whom  this  is  written  must  make  his  pocket-money  go  as  far 
as  possible,  and  he  will  probably  have  but  one.  Rod-making 
is  an  interesting  amusement,  but  it  would  better  be  deferred 
until  one  knows  fairly  well  the  use  of  a  rod  and  just  what 
kind  he  wants.  The  making  of  rods  is  not  very  economical, 
since  nowadays  factories  turn  out  really  good  ones  at  prices 
little  above  what  one  must  pay  for  reliable  rod-wood. 
Roughly  speaking,  there  are  two  kinds  of  rods,  bait-rods 
and  fly-rods.  Bait-rods  are  nearly  always  stiffer  than  fly- 
rods  ;  the  latter  must  have  sufficient  flexibility  and  elasticity 
to  throw  a  line  quite  a  distance,  often  several  times  the 
length  of  the  rod.  But  in  choosing  a  bait-rod  a  different 
selection  will  be  made  according  to  the  particular  sort  of 
fishing  within  reach.  Thus,  if  one  fishes  ponds  or  wide 
streams  from  the  bank,  a  rod  a  dozen  feet  long  would  not 
be  too  long;  but  if  from  a  boat,  a  shorter  rod,  not  above 
ten  feet,  will  be  more  convenient.  Still,  shorter  rods  are 
better  if  bait  is  to  be  cast  long  distances,  as  is  done  in 
minnow-fishing  or  some  kinds  of  sea-fishing.  A  jointed  rod 

1  Mr.  Henry  P.  Wells's  book,  Fly-rods  and  Fly-tackle,  furnishes  a  de- 
tailed study  of  the  subject. 

91 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


is  convenient  for  carrying,  but  if  one  lives  within  walking 
or  driving  distance  of  his  fishing  a  rod  in  one  piece,  such 
as  is  easily  made  from  a  slender  bamboo  with  an  elastic 
tip  of  good  wood  spliced  on,  is  as  good  for  bait-fishing  as 
any.  If,  besides  bait-fishing,  one  desires  to  use  the  fly, 
then  the  best  rod  is  a  rather  stout  fly-rod  about  ten  feet  in 
length,  because  it  can  be  used  for  bait-fishing,  while  a  bait- 
rod  cannot  be  used  to  cast  a  fly. 

Beautiful  and  excellent  rods  are  made  of  split  bamboo, 
and  some  of  moderate  cost ;  but  avoid  very  cheap  ones.  But 
for  beginners'  use  the  writer  prefers  a  solid-wood  rod  of 
good  quality,  because  it  is  less  liable  to  injury  and  because 
of  the  greater  ease  with  which  it  is  repaired;  the  boy  him- 
self may  do  it  if  he  be  handy.  Whatever  rod  you  have, 
let  the  line-guides  be  of  the  sort  known  as  "standing- 
guides"  rather  than  rings,  if  you  have  the  choice. 

Lines  and  Hooks 

Lines  should  be  sound  and  strong,  but  not  too  heavy 
for  the  rod;  twisted  lines  are  more  easily  found  of  good 
quality,  but  braided  lines  kink  less.  Twenty  yards  are 
quite  enough  for  any  fishing  of  the  kind  we  are  considering, 
and  half  as  much  would  usually  suffice.  In  fly-fishing  for 
large  trout  or  bass  the  reel  usually  carries  forty  to  fifty  yards. 

Hooks  should  be  of  the  best  quality  to  be  had.  Good 
hooks  are  still  practically  all  made  in  England.  Shapes 
which  have  received  names  are  many,  and  most  of  them 
have  advantages  for  particular  kinds  of  fishing.  Among 
the  best  are  Q'Shaughnessy,  Limerick,  Sneckbend,  Aber- 

9* 


FISHING   RODS   AND    TACKLE 

deen,  and  Sproat.  The  last-named  we  think  will  meet  more 
kinds  of  need  than  any  other  one.  As  to  size,  it  should  be 
remembered  that  the  hook  is  to  fit  the  bait,  not  the  fish's 
mouth;  a  very  small  fish  can  take  any  ordinary  hook. 

Other  Tackle 

A  reel  is  not  so  absolutely  necessary  as  the  rod,  line,  and 
hook,  but  it  is  a  prime  convenience.  A  well-made  single- 
click  reel  is  better  than  any  multiplier  except  for  the  one 
matter  of  making  long  casts  from  the  reel,  which  a  beginner 
is  not  likely  to  do. 

For  fly-casting  a  leader  or  casting-line  of  gut  between 
the  fly  and  the  main  line  is  necessary  for  making  a  light  cast, 
but  for  ordinary  bait-fishing  the  gut-snells  which  are  now- 
adays so  generally  sold  attached  to  hook  are  bottom  line 
enough.  If,  however,  you  can  <get  some  white,  gray,  or 
cream-colored  hairs  from  the  tail  of  a  young  stallion  you 
can  make  bottom  lines  or  leaders  for  light  fishing  without 
expense. 

A  gaudy  float  is  pretty  sure  to  form  part  of  the  first 
angling  outfit,  and  it  is  useful  to  keep  the  bait  out  of  the 
weeds  and  to  notify  the  inexperienced  angler  that  a  fish  is 
biting.  Choose  one  that  is  slender  in  shape  and  not  large. 
A  dry  stick  makes  a  good  enough  extemporaneous  float, 
and  if  fish  are  shy  may  be  better  than  a  more  showy  one. 

For  sinkers,  split  shot  BB  size  and  buckshot  or  strips  of 
thin  lead,  such  as  comes  from  tea-chests,  wound  around  the 
line  are  as  good  as  any  and  very  easily  gotten. 

Do  not  buy  a  bait-box.  It  is  not  so  good  as  a  bag  with  a 

93 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


drawstring,  which  will  allow  your  hand  to  be  inserted  and 
will  also  close  the  aperture  snugly.  The  same  string  will 
serve  to  fasten  the  bag  to  your  buttonhole  or  creel-strap. 
The  bag  is  best  made  of  flannel.  Wash  it  after  using. 

Worms  are  much  better  if  dug  a  day  or  two  before  using 
and  ''scoured"  by  putting  them  into  soft  moss  wrung  out 
of  water.  They  become  brighter  and  firmer  by  scouring 
and  are  more  attractive  to  fish.  If  live  minnows  or  small 
fish  are  used  for  bait,  of  course  they  must  be  kept  in  water, 
which  must  be  changed  from  time  to  time.  A  pail  is  the 
most  convenient  vessel  to  carry  them  in. 

A  landing-net  is  convenient  if  you  fish  for  game  which 
is  heavy  in  proportion  to  your  tackle— say  for  fish  upward 
of  a  pound  in  weight  with  a  light  rod.  Very  low-priced 
ones  are  now  sold  in  the  shops  and  sufficiently  good  ones 
can  be  made  at  home. 

We  give  no  details  about  flies,  as  their  name  is  legion.  A 
beginner  would  better  have  but  few  kinds  and  of  moderate 
size;  a  dozen  or  two  will  do  for  the  simple  camp  life  we 
are  considering.  For  trout,  the  flies  should  include  the 
Montreal,  Professor,  Dusty  Miller,  Parmachenee  Belle, 
Brown  and  Black  Hackle,  Coachman  and  a  few  others, 
the  choice  of  course  to  be  guided  by  local  requirements. 

Probably  most  boys  are  too  sensible  to  fall  into  the  error 
which  seems  to  beset  many  adults — namely,  that  the  posses- 
sion of  tackle  makes  an  angler.  It  is  necessary  to  know 
how  to  use  it. 

Begin  by  putting  your  rod  together  properly;  put  the 
tip  into  the  middle  first,  and  then  the  middle  into  the  butt. 
See  that  the  ferrules  are  well  "home"  and  that  the  guides 

94 


FISHING   RODS   AND    TACKLE 

are  all  on  the  same  side,  so  that  the  line  will  run  freely. 
Place  the  reel,  if  you  have  one,  in  the  reel-seat  and  see  that 
the  reel-bands  are  snug  and  will  not  slip.  Then  lead  off  the 
line  through  the  rings  and  the  tip-ring.  These  details  are 
the  same  whatever  kind  of  fishing  is  in  hand;  the  others 
depend  upon  what  is  to  be  done. 

Let  us  suppose  that  you  are  to  fish  with  bait  and  that 
bait  a  worm.  If  you  have  a  short  gut  line — two  or  three 
feet  long — it  will  be  well  to  fasten  it  to  the  end  of  the  line 
and  to  the  other  end  of  the  gut  attach  the  snell  of  the  hook. 
But  when  seeking  many  fish  which  are  not  very  shy  the 
snell  may  be  fastened  directly  to  the  line.  In  fishing  in  a 
gently  moving  stream  no  lead  may  be  needed;  if  the  cur- 
rent be  too  quick  a  little  will  probably  be  required  to  keep 
the  bait  near  the  bottom.  In  pond-fishing  or  reaches  of  a 
stream  which  are  very  quiet  a  float  as  well  as  lead  may  be 
convenient.  Some  veteran  anglers  still  enjoy  the  bobbing 
of  the  float.  The  hook  may  be  put  into  the  side  of  the 
worm  as  shown  at  A,  or  into  the  head  as  at  B  (Fig.  i).  A  is 
rather  more  attractive  to  the  fish;  B  more  likely  to  be  taken 
in  such  a  way  as  to  insure  that  the  hook  is  in  the  fish's 
mouth.  When  the  worm  is  dead  or  has  slipped  down  into 
a  bunch  at  the  bend  of  the  hook  no  fish  that  you  want  will 
be  likely  to  take  it. 

Now,  do  not  make  a  splash  when  you  put  it  into  the  water. 
If  you  have  to  cast  it  out  into  still  water  do  not  use  your 
rod  and  line  as  if  it  were  a  thresher's  flail.  Holding  your 
rod  nearly  straight  up,  give  the  line  a  gentle  swing  forward, 
and  when  the  bait  has  swung  well  out  reach  after  it  with  the 
rod  so  that  the  bait  (and  float,  too,  if  there  be  one)  shall  fall 
7  95 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


drawstring,  which  will  allow  your  hand  to  be  inserted  and 
will  also  close  the  aperture  snugly.  The  same  string  will 
serve  to  fasten  the  bag  to  your  buttonhole  or  creel-strap. 
The  bag  is  best  made  of  flannel.  Wash  it  after  using. 

Worms  are  much  better  if  dug  a  day  or  two  before  using 
and  "scoured"  by  putting  them  into  soft  moss  wrung  out 
of  water.  They  become  brighter  and  firmer  by  scouring 
and  are  more  attractive  to  fish.  If  live  minnows  or  small 
fish  are  used  for  bait,  of  course  they  must  be  kept  in  water, 
which  must  be  changed  from  time  to  time.  A  pail  is  the 
most  convenient  vessel  to  carry  them  in. 

A  landing-net  is  convenient  if  you  fish  for  game  which 
is  heavy  in  proportion  to  your  tackle— say  for  fish  upward 
of  a  pound  in  weight  with  a  light  rod.  Very  low-priced 
ones  are  now  sold  in  the  shops  and  sufficiently  good  ones 
Can  be  made  at  home. 

We  give  no  details  about  flies,  as  their  name  is  legion.  A 
beginner  would  better  have  but  few  kinds  and  of  moderate 
size;  a  dozen  or  two  will  do  for  the  simple  camp  life  we 
are  considering.  For  trout,  the  flies  should  include  the 
Montreal,  Professor,  Dusty  Miller,  Parmachenee  Belle, 
Brown  and  Black  Hackle,  Coachman  and  a  few  others, 
the  choice  of  course  to  be  guided  by  local  requirements. 

Probably  most  boys  are  too  sensible  to  fall  into  the  error 
which  seems  to  beset  many  adults — namely,  that  the  posses- 
sion of  tackle  makes  an  angler.  It  is  necessary  to  know 
how  to  use  it. 

Begin  by  putting  your  rod  together  properly;  put  the 
tip  into  the  middle  first,  and  then  the  middle  into  the  butt. 
See  that  the  ferrules  are  well  "home"  and  that  the  guides 

94 


FISHING   RODS   AND   TACKLE 

are  all  on  the  same  side,  so  that  the  line  will  run  freely. 
Place  the  reel,  if  you  have  one,  in  the  reel-seat  and  see  that 
the  reel-bands  are  snug  and  will  not  slip.  Then  lead  off  the 
line  through  the  rings  and  the  tip-ring.  These  details  are 
the  same  whatever  kind  of  fishing  is  in  hand;  the  others 
depend  upon  what  is  to  be  done. 

Let  us  suppose  that  you  are  to  fish  with  bait  and  that 
bait  a  worm.  If  you  have  a  short  gut  line — two  or  three 
feet  long — it  will  be  well  to  fasten  it  to  the  end  of  the  line 
and  to  the  other  end  of  the  gut  attach  the  snell  of  the  hook. 
But  when  seeking  many  fish  which  are  not  very  shy  the 
snell  may  be  fastened  directly  to  the  line.  In  fishing  in  a 
gently  moving  stream  no  lead  may  be  needed;  if  the  cur- 
rent be  too  quick  a  little  will  probably  be  required  to  keep 
the  bait  near  the  bottom.  In  pond-fishing  or  reaches  of  a 
stream  which  are  very  quiet  a  float  as  well  as  lead  may  be 
convenient.  Some  veteran  anglers  still  enjoy  the  bobbing 
of  the  float.  The  hook  may  be  put  into  the  side  of  the 
worm  as  showrn  at  A,  or  into  the  head  as  at  B  (Fig.  i).  A  is 
rather  more  attractive  to  the  fish;  B  more  likely  to  be  taken 
in  such  a  way  as  to  insure  that  the  hook  is  in  the  fish's 
mouth.  When  the  worm  is  dead  or  has  slipped  down  into 
a  bunch  at  the  bend  of  the  hook  no  fish  that  you  want  will 
be  likely  to  take  it. 

Now,  do  not  make  a  splash  when  you  put  it  into  the  water. 
If  you  have  to  cast  it  out  into  still  water  do  not  use  your 
rod  and  line  as  if  it  were  a  thresher's  flail.  Holding  your 
rod  nearly  straight  up,  give  the  line  a  gentle  swing  forward, 
and  when  the  bait  has  swung  well  out  reach  after  it  with  the 
rod  so  that  the  bait  (and  float,  too,  if  there  be  one)  shall  fall 
7  95 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


as  lightly  as  possible.  Do  not  be  in  too  great  a  hurry  to 
change  its  place.  If  you  are  fishing  in  running  water,  drop 
the  bait  quietly  into  the  water  and  so  manage  the  rod  that 
it  shall  neither  hasten  nor  hinder  the  movement  of  the  bait, 
which  should  travel  as  nearly  as  possible  as  it  would  if  it 


were  not  upon  a  hook.  All  the  time  you  are  to  keep  as 
much  as  possible  out  of  sight.  When  you  feel  the  pluck  of 
the  fish  drop  the  point  of  your  rod  and  wait  a  second  or  two 
before  you  attempt  to  strike  the  hook  into  the  flesh. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  place  you  wish  to  fish  is  so 
encumbered  with  bushes  that  it  cannot  be  approached.  In 
such  a  case,  if  you  cannot  find  an  opening  in  the  bushes  you 
may  get  at  the  water  by  shortening  the  line  and  winding 
what  is  left  around  and  around  the  top  of  the  rod.  Then 
pass  it  through  the  opening,  and,  reaching  out  over  the 
water,  roll  the  rod  over  and  over  in  the  hands  until  the  line 

96 


FISHING    RODS    AND    TACKLE 

is  unwound  and  the  bait  goes  dropping  down  to  the  water, 
as  a  spider  lets  himself  down  from  his  web.  If  you  have  a 
bite,  give  the  fish  time  to  make  sure  of  the  bait.  Strike, 
and,  when  you  can,  shorten  your  line  still  farther  if  neces- 
sary and  draw  your  fish  out. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  in  a  fairly  open  place  you  wish  to 
reach  a  point  at  some  distance,  you  may  throw  your  bait 
out  by  pulling  sufficient  line  from  the  reel,  and,  gathering  it 
in  coils  upon  the  left  hand,  swing  the  bait  out  with  sufficient 
force  to  carry  the  coils  of  line  after  it  and  so  reach  the 
desired  point. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


seine  describes  a  semicircle  between  the  boats.  As  the 
shore  is  approached  each  boat  closes  in,  thereby  causing  the 
two  staffs  to  meet  and  imprison  all  the  fish  that  have  come 
within  the  bounds  of  the  seine.  When  one  person  works 
the  seine  one  of  the  staff  lines  is  tied  to  a  rock  or  stake  on 
the  shore  and  the  other  line  is  taken  into  a  boat,  or  the 
operator  wades  out  and  causes  his  end  of  the  seine  to 
describe  a  circle  until  the  two  shafts  meet.  Great  care  must 
be  taken  to  keep  the  lead  line  close  to  the  bottom,  otherwise 
the  fish  will  escape.  In  the  selection  of  the  seining-ground 
always  avoid  stony  bottoms,  snags,  and  brush,  which  will 
cause  the  seine  to  "roll  up"  and  tear. 

The  cost  of  the  above-described  seine  ranges  from  three 
to  four  dollars,  and  is  capable  of  lasting  two  seasons  if  care- 
fully handled  and  spread  out  on  the  grass  to  dry  after  using 
it.  A  much  superior  article  to  mosquito-net  is  bobinet, 
which  will  last  several  seasons. 

A  Bait-boat 

Fig.  2  is  a  bait-boat  for  keeping  the  bait  alive.  It  is 
towed  behind  or  kept  by  the  side  when  fishing.  The  top 
and  bottom  pieces  consist  of  half -inch  pine :  in  the  centre  of 
each  piece  square  openings  are  cut;  that  on  the  top  is  pro- 
tected by  a  door  made  of  wire-cloth  or  quarter-inch  mesh 
fastened  to  two  small  staples  which  answer  the  purpose  of 
hinges;  over  the  opening  in  the  bottom  piece  wire-cloth  is 
nailed  to  admit  of  a  free  circulation  of  water.  Under  the 
back  end  of  the  top  piece  a  cleat  is  nailed,  also  two  cleats  on 
the  bottom  piece  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  At  the  bow  of 

100 


FISHING    WITH    BAIT 


the  boat  an  upright  piece  of  wood  is  fastened  to  the  top  and 
bottom  of  the  bait-boat  by  means  of  screws.  The  sides  of 
the  boat  consist  of  one  piece  of  wire-cloth,  the  ends  of  which 
meet  at  the  upright  piece  of  wood  at  the  bow  and  are  nailed 


Fig.  2 


with  broad-headed  galvanized  nails.  The  top  and  bottom 
of  the  wire-cloth  are  also  fastened  with  nails  to  the  edges  of 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  boat  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
A  tow-line  is  fastened  to  the  bow  and  the  boat  is  complete. 

When  handling  the  bait  a  small  hand-net  (Fig.  3)  is  used, 
consisting  of  a  stout  piece  of  wire  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
The  straight  parts  of  the  wire  are  bound  together  with 
fishing-line  and  constitute  the  handle;  to  this  frame  netting 
is  sewed  to  form  the  net-bag. 

For  a  makeshift  float  nothing  is  better  than  a  good-sized 
bottle-cork  into  which  a  cut  has  been  made  with  a  sharp 
knife  or  razor  extending  from  the  side  to  the  centre  of  the 
cork.  Into  this  cut  the  line  is  drawn  as  shown  in  Fig.  4  A. 


101 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Sheet-lead  is  always  a  useful  aid  in  makeshift  fishing- 
tackle,  and  for  light  lines  makes  excellent  sinkers  when  bent 
and  compressed  around  the  line  as  shown  at  Fig.  4  B. 

For  cleaning  out  a  boat  a  stiff  whisk-broom  made  of  fine 
birch  twigs  bound  together  with  wire  or  fishing-line,  as 
shown  at  Fig.  5,  will  be  found  very  useful. 

Fig.  6  A  and  B  are  hand-made  sinkers  beaten  and  carved 
out  of  old  lead  pipe.  The  carved  one,  B,  is  first  roughed  out 
with  a  jack-knife  and  finished  up  with  fine  emery  or  sand 
paper.  A  is  beaten  into  shape  with  a  railroad  spike  on  an 
anvil  or  smooth  stone.  This  beating  and  carving  of  lead 
is  very  pleasant  work,  the  lead  being  of  such  an  easy  and 
good-natured  temper. 

For  a  cheap  and  easily  obtainable  bailer  make  use  of  an 
empty  tomato  or  corned-beef  can  as  shown  in  Fig.  7.  A 
hole  sufficiently  large  to  admit  of  the  handle  is  punched  in 
the  side  of  the  can ;  the  inside  of  the  handle  is  chamfered 
off  so  as  to  fit  close  to  the  inner  side  of  the  can.  Through 
the  can  and  into  the  end  of  the  handle  a  stout  nail  is  driven 
as  at  A. 

A  good  bait  for  large  fish  is  a  strip  cut  from  the  under  side 
of  a  small .  pickerel,  perch,  or  sunfish,  which  is  placed  on 
the  hook  as  shown  in  Fig.  8. 

Baits,  and  Where  to  Find  Them 

As  a  rule,  the  young  fisherman  naturally  considers  the 
angleworm  to  be  the  only  bait  he  need  have  when  he  goes 
fishing,  and,  taking  a  spade,  he  seeks  a  moist,  loamy  spot  in 
the  garden  and  proceeds  to  fill  his  box.  \  But  there  is  a 

IO2 


Fig.  3 


Fig.  6 


Fig.  4 


Fig.  6 


Fig.  8 


SOME    USEFUL    HINTS 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


choice  even  in  worms,  and  those  of  a  clear,  dark-amber 
color  are  the  best. 

Just  at  night,  and  after  a  soft,  warm  rain,  worms  of  the 
size  of  a  lead-pencil  will  be  found  crawling  over  the  ground. 
These  are  excellent  bait  for  bass,  chub,  perch,  and  large 
trout  early  in  the  season.  If  you  step  very  lightly,  so  as 
not  to  jar  the  ground,  you  can  easily  pick  up  a  box  of  these 
large  fellows. 

It  is  well  enough  to  have  worms  with  you  on  all  occasions, 
but  there  are  many  other  baits.  Frogs,  crabs,  grubs,  dob- 
sons,  minnows,  June-bugs,  grasshoppers,  and  crickets,  as 
well  as  artificial  baits,  are  more  successful  lures  with  certain 
fish.  A  few  words  telling  where  to  find  these  baits  and  the 
proper  manner  of  keeping  them  fresh  and  lively  may  prove 
of  value. 

Frogs  are  most  plentiful  on  the  shores  of  ponds  or  streams 
filled  with  plant  growth,  and  in  low,  moist  places  in  meadows. 
In  searching  for  them  in  grass,  wait  till  you  see  one  jump, 
then  catch  it  in  your  hands.  They  are  not  so  easily  gotten 
from  the  shores,  as  they  are  apt  to  take  to  the  water  at  the 
first  alarm. 

Crabs  are  usually  found  under  stones  along  the  shores  of  a 
stream  or  pond,  and  in  some  localities  in  low,  moist  places  in 
grass-lands.  Seize  the  crab  back  of  the  pincers  and  it 
cannot  nip  you. 

Dobsons  are  only  found  under  mossy  stones  in  swift- 
running  waters.  They  are  of  a  dark-gray  color,  have  many 
legs,  and  when  fully  grown  are  about  three  inches  long. 
The  head  is  shield-shaped  and  armed  with  good,  stout 
pincers;  so  handle  the  dobson  as  you  would  a  crab.  The 

104 


FISHING   WITH   BAIT 


best  way  to  get  a  supply  of  dobsons  is  to  have  some  one 
hold  one  edge  of  a  fine-meshed  net  on  the  bottom  of  the 
stream  while  you  turn  over  the  stones  above  the  net  with 
a  hoe.  The  dobsons,  loosing  their  hold  on  the  bottom, 
will  be  carried  by  the  current  into  the  net.  Put  frogs, 
crabs,  and  dobsons  into  a  pail  with  plenty  of  grass  and  some 
water.  If  you  are  to  keep  them  for  some  time  change  the 
water  occasionally. 

Grubs  are  excellent  bait  for  trout  early  in  the  season. 
They  are  found  in  partially  decayed  tree-trunks,  stumps, 
and  old  timbers  left  in  moist  places.  Cut  into  the  wood 
with  an  axe,  and  if  you  find  it  full  of  holes  of  the  size  of  a 
lead-pencil,  knock  it  to  pieces  and  pick  out  the  'grubs. 
Put  them  in  a  tin  bait-box  with  some  of  the  rotten  wood 
you  found  them  in. 

Minnows  of  a  size  suitable  for  perch  and  bass  fishing  can 
usually  be  procured  from  a  spring  hole  or  the  pools  of  a 
small  stream.  Take  a  rather  baggy  net  with  a  small  mesh, 
and  after  setting  it  at  one  end  of  the  pool  drive  the  minnows 
into  it  by  striking  on  the  water  with  a  pole  and  punching 
about  on  the  bottom.  If  you  stir  up  the  water  the  little  fish 
will  drive  more  easily.  If  your  supply  must  be  procured 
from  a  lake  or  pond,  look  among  the  shallows  close  inshore 
until  you  have  found  a  school,  then  draw  a  small  seine 
around  them.  Large  minnows  for  pickerel  or  pike  fishing 
can  be  caught  with  a  hook  and  line.  Those  you  are  to  use 
for  skittering  had  better  be  packed  in  salt.  The  minnows 
you  would  keep  alive  should  be  put  into  the  bait-pail  as 
soon  as  caught.  Bait-pails,  as  usually  made,  consist  of  one 
pail  freely  perforated  with  holes  to  be  set  into  a  tight  outer 

105 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


pail.  By  this  arrangement  the  water  can  be  changed  fre- 
quently without  inconveniencing  the  little  fellows.  If  the 
bait  is  to  be  carried  some  distance,  and  there  is  no  chance  to 
change  the  water,  pack  the  space  between  the  two  pails 
loosely  with  grass.  The  water  trickling  down  through  the 
grass  will  take  up  the  air  needed  by  the  fish. 

Crickets  are  to  be  found  under  stones,  loose  sods,  and  old 
planks.  Select  the  largest  you  can  find.  June-bugs,  some- 
times called  May-bugs,  hide  through  the  heat  of  the  day 
among  the  leaves  of  the  trees,  and  sometimes  by  shaking  a 
tree  quite  a  number  will  fall  to  the  ground.  Grasshoppers 
are  plentiful  in  meadow  and  pasture  lands,  and  may  easily 
be  caught  in  the  hands.  Put  June-bugs,  crickets,  and  grass- 
hoppers in  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  loosely  stuffed  with  grass. 
Do  not  cork  the  bottle  tight. 

I  never  esteemed  artificial  baits,  such  as  the  rubber  frog 
and  crab,  very  highly.  It  is  impossible  to  give  the  semblance 
of  life  to  them  in  the  water,  and  most  game  fish  prefer  live 
food  to  dead.  The  spoon-hook  and  the  artificial  fly,  how- 
ever, have  proved  their  worth.  The  spoon  should  be  of  a 
size  in  keeping  with  the  size  of  the  game  fished  for,  and  it  is 
well  enough  to  have  two — one  bright,  for  use  early  in  the 
morning  and  late  in  the  afternoon  and  on  dark  days,  the 
other  dull-colored,  for  use  in  the  brightest  part  of  the  day. 
It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  bait  a  spoon-hook  with  a  large 
worm,  a  minnow,  or  a  piece  of  meat ;  then  if  the  fish  strikes 
and  misses  the  hook  it  may  get  a  portion  of  the  bait,  and 
will  strike  again  with  truer  aim. 

There  are  many  other  things  that  can  be  used  for  bait, 
which  are  to  be  found  only  in  your  locality.  What  they  are 

106 


FISHING    WITH    BAIT 


you  can  learn  by  observation  and  experiment.  One  can 
always  learn  something.  Only  recently  I  discovered  that 
bass  were  fond  of  darning-needles. 

Sometimes  the  fish  have  very  fickle  appetites,  and  it  is 
well  to  have  as  many  kinds  of  bait  as  you  can  conveniently 
carry.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  open  the  stomach  of  the 
first  fish  you  catch,  and  offer  to  its  companions  the  same 
kind  of  food  found  inside  of  it. 


A  Trap  for  Small  Fish 

I  always  found  that  the  scoop-net  which  we  use  to  catch 
the  fish  with  is  good  enough  for  certain  kinds  of  minnows, 
but  there  are  others  which  are  too  lively  or  too  shy  to  be 
caught  in  that  way;  so  I  set  to  work  to  devise  some  plan 
for  their  capture.  I  claim  no  originality  for  this  trap — it  is 
hundreds  of  years  old ;  but  as  it  answered  my  purpose  better 
than  anything  else,  I  used  it.  The  way  I  made  it  was  as  follows : 


-3ft. 


Fig.  9 

I  took  a  piece  of  wire  netting  about  three  feet  square  and 
bent  it  so  as  to  form  a  tube  three  feet  long  and  about  one 
foot  in  diameter  (Fig.  9).  I  then  took  two  other  strips  of 

107 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


wire  netting,  three  feet  long  at  the  top,  one  foot  wide,  and 
two  feet  at  the  bottom  (Fig.  10) ;  these  I  bent  into  funnel 
shape.  I  sewed  one  funnel  in  about  the  middle  of  my  cylin- 
der and  another  in  one  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  9,  strengthen- 


Fig.  10 

ing  them  in  their  position  with  strings  from  the  small  ends 
to  the  sides  of  the  cylinder.  The  other  end  of  the  cylinder 
I  closed  with  a  piece  of  strong  bagging  so  sewed  on  that 
there  was  a  space  left  at  one  side  which  could  be  untied 
when  I  wished  to  empty  the  trap. 

The  manner  of  setting  the  trap  is  as  simple  as  its  manu- 
facture. A  handful  of  clams  or  mussels,  crushed  so  that 
the  minnows  can  get  at  the  flesh,  is  thrown  in  between  the 
first  and  second  funnels.  The  fish,  little  crabs,  small  eels 
and  the  like  go  in,  and  when  they  try  to  get  out  they  find 
it  much  easier  to  swim  through  the  second  funnel  than  to 
find  the  small  hole  in  the  first.  I  have  had  several  of  these 
traps,  or  "pots,"  as  the  fishermen  call  them,  in  operation 
at  one  time,  and  have  caught  as  many  as  half  a  bushel  of 
small  fish  in  one  night. 

The  trap  can  be  made  by  making  a  frame  of  hoops  and 

sol 


FISHING   WITH    BAIT 


lath  and  covering  it  with  mosquito-netting,  but  it  is  not  so 
desirable  as  the  fine  wire,  being  more  easily  torn. 

A  Water-turtle  Trap 

Some  time  ago,  while  spending  the  summer  in  the  country, 
I  began  the  pleasing  amusement  of  making  an  aquarium. 
I  used  various  methods  to  procure  the  inmates  of  the  great 
glass  box  which  I  had  made  for  the  purpose,  and  was  success- 
ful, except  that  I  could  not  get  a  water-turtle.  There  they 
would  lie  on  logs  in  the  pond  sunning  themselves,  but  the 
moment  I  came  within  reaching  distance,  plump  they  would 
go  into  the  water.  At  last  I  took  an  old  soap-box,  and  after 
carefully  removing  one  end  I  nailed  on  the  cover.  I  then 
fastened  the  end  to  the  cover  by  hinges,  so  that  it  would 
swing  inward,  and  after  throwing  in  a  few  bones  and  scraps 
of  meat  I  sunk  the  box  in  the  pond  close  beside  a  big  log 
where  the  turtles  were  accustomed  to  sun  themselves.  I 


Ffff.lt 

put  a  heavy  stone  on  the  box,  so  as  to  keep  it  steady,  and 
awaited  the  next  morning  for  developments.     Fig.  n. 

Here   T   may  say  that  this  trap  takes  advantage  of  a 
peculiarity  in  the  nature  of  the  water-turtle—namely,   if 

109 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


there  is  a  log  or  stone  that  he  cannot  get  under,  that  is  just 
the  place  that  he  wants  to  get;  and  I  calculated  that  the 
slight  resistance  offered  by  my  swinging  door  would  be  just 
enough  to  make  the  turtles  determined  to  get  into  my  box. 
The  next  morning  when  I  went  to  my  trap  I  found  several 
turtles  of  all  sizes,  from  one  tiny,  yellow-spotted  fellow,  or 
mud-turtle,  not  larger  than  a  half-dollar,  to  an  ugly,  great 
snapper  as  big  as  your  hat,  and  so  ill-tempered  that  I  let 
him  go  again,  glad  enough  at  having  got  rid  of  so  trouble- 
some a  visitor.  After  that  I  set  my  trap  several  times  and 
caught  a  number  of  turtles.  The  smaller  ones  furnish  a 
charming  addition  to  an  aquarium,  and  the  larger  ones,  if 
properly  dressed,  make  a  capital  stew. 

An  Eel-pot 

All  along  the  Atlantic  coast  eel-pots  are  made  on  the 
same  general  plan,-  a  bottle-shaped  basket  having  a  funnel 
fitted  at  the  bottom  and  provided  with  a  hat  that  is  held 
on  by  two  straps  of  green  oak. 

Three  forms  are  used  on  which  to  build  up  the  basket- 
work.  The  large  form  is  usually  ten  inches  in  diameter  and 
shaped  down  to  eight  inches  at  the  top  or  neck.  This  form 
is  two  feet  long  and  has  a  round  stick  driven  in  the  small 
end.  This  in  turn  rests  in  a  hole  bored  in  a  solid  piece  of 
plank,  so  that  it  is  held  in  an  inverted  position  and  revolves 
in  the  hole.  Green  oak  is  used  for  the  ribs  and  bands. 
This  is  cut  as  straight  and  free  from  knots  as  possible,  and 
is  soaked  in  water  for  weeks  before  it  is  split  and  slivered. 
Green  oak  will  sliver  in  an  even  and  uniform  manner  if  it  is 

no 


FISHING   WITH   BAIT 


started  right,  and  from  the  trunk  of  an  oak-tree  six  inches 
in  diameter  enough  material  can  be  had  to  make  several 
dozen  eel-pots.  The  ribs  are  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
wide  and  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  while  the 
bands  are  a  trifle  thinner  and  wider.  A  number  of  the 
ribs  are  tied  around  the  form  as  shown  in  Fig.  12,  and  be- 
ginning at  the  bottom  the  bands  are  woven  in  and  out 
around  the  form,  turning  it  as  the  work  progresses  so  that 
the  immediate  parts  are  always  in  sight.  Where  the  ends 
join  they  are  shaved  down  thin  so  that  one  laps  over  the 
other;  then  the  weaving  continues  until  the  top  is  reached. 
The  ends  of  the  ribs  are  then  shaved  thin  and  bent  back 
and  slipped  under  some  of  the  straps.  A  thin  ribbon  of  the 
oak  is  sewed  over  and  over  around  the  edge  to  finish  it. 
The  top  or  small  end  of  the  basket  is  finished  in  a  similar 
manner. 

The  cone  or  funnel  form  is  fifteen  inches  long,  nine  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  large  end,  and  tapers  down  to  two  inches 
at  the  bottom,  as  shown  in  Fig.  13.  Ribs  are  tied  to  this 
form  the  same  as  in  the  case  of  the  large  one,  and  the  weav- 
ing begins  at  the  bottom  and  is  carried  to  the  top,  where  the 
ends  of  the  ribs  are  shaved  and  turned  in  as  before  described. 
The  bottom  or  small  end  of  the  funnel  is  the  trap,  and  here 
the  long,  thin  ends  of  the  ribs  are  left,  so  that  the  eel,  when 
he  goes  through  the  funnel  and  into  the  pot,  cannot  get 
back  again. 

The  hat  is  woven  the  same  as  a  basket,  by  crossing  the 

ribs  and  adding  a  half-rib  from  the  centre  anywhere  on 

the  circle,  so  as  to  make  an  uneven  number  of  ribs;    thus 

the  weaving  will  not  duplicate  after  the  first  turn  around  the 

8  in 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


circle.  This  extra  rib  is  shown  at  A  in  Fig.  14.  A  hat  form, 
shown  in  Fig.  15,  is  made  of  wood  and  mounted  on  a  block 
so  that  it  will  revolve  the  same  as  the  other  forms.  When 
a  part  of  the  hat  is  woven  it  is  placed  on  the  form  and  two 
small  nails  driven  through  the  ribs  into  the  form  to  hold  the 


Fig.  12 


weaving  in  place.  It  is  then  shaped  down  over  the  rounded 
edges  of  the  form  and  carried  one  or  two  inches  below  the 
form  so  the  lower  edges  of  the  ribs  can  be  shaved  and  bent 
easily.  A  long  strap  of  the  green  oak  is  passed  under  one 
of  the  ribs  in  the  hat  and  caught  under  bands  of  the 


112 


FISHING   WITH    BAIT 


body,  as  shown  in  the  drawing  of  a  complete  eel  -  pot. 
Fig.  i 6. 

The  funnel  is  sewed  to  the  bottom  edge  of  the  body  with 
thin  bands.  As  soon  as  the  pots  are  finished  they  should 
be  sunk  in  shallow  water  to  keep  them  wet  and  get  them 
thoroughly  water-soaked. 

Stakes  or  poles  are  to  be  driven  or  worked  down  into  the 
bottom  of  the  bay  and  the  eel-pots  made  fast  to  them  with 
ropes.  To  bait  an  eel-pot  crack  some  hard-shell  crabs  or 
shrimp  or  put  some  pieces  of  fresh  raw  meat  within  the  pot 
and  drop  it  overboard.  Run  the  pots  morning  and  night, 
and  remove  the  eels  by  unstrapping  the  cap  and  dumping 
them  into  a  barrel  which  may  be  carried  on  the  boat. 

A  Scap-net 

A  scap-net  for  crabbing  or  landing  fish  on  a  hook  may 
be  made  from  a  ring  of  heavy  galvanized  iron  driven  into 
the  end  of  a  hardwood  stick.  Scap-net s  may  be  purchased 
in  almost  any  general  store  near  a  bay  or  pond,  but  the  in- 
genious boy  can  make  one  himself  from  a  hoop  and  a  ball 
of  cotton  twine.  Hang  long  pieces  of  string  over  the  ring 
and  tie  them  fast  with  a  square  knot.  Then  tie  one  string 
with  its  next  neighbor  all  around  the  circle.  Begin  lower 
down  and  tie  them  again,  and  continue  in  this  manner  until 
the  net  resembles  Fig.  17.  When  it  is  seven  or  eight  inches 
deep  begin  to  shape  it  in  at  the  bottom  by  making  the 
meshes  or  openings  smaller,  so  that  it  will  have  a  rounded 
bottom.  The  ends  of  the  string  should  be  tied  together  or 
over  a  small  galvanized  iron  sail-ring.  All  the  strings  should 

113 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


be  tied  in  square  knots  so  that  they  will  not  become  undone 
after  the  net  has  been  used  for  a  while. 


A  Hoop  Drop-net 

A  hoop  drop-net  such  as  shown  at  Fig.  18  may  easily  be 
made  from  three  galvanized-wire  rings  and  a  mesh  of  tied 
string  as  described  for  the  scap-net.  The  hoops  should  be 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter  and  separated  ten  inches,  thus 
making  a  net  twenty  inches  deep.  A  mesh  is  to  be  formed 
across  the  bottom,  and  at  the  top  six  small  ropes  are  tied  and 
the  ends  brought  together  fifteen  or  twenty  inches  above 
the  top  ring. 

Place  some  crushed  crab  or  any  good  bait  in  the  bottom 
of  the  net  and  slowly  lower  it  until  the  rings  rest  on  the 
bottom  of  the  bay  or  pond,  but  keep  the  small  ropes  clear 
from  the  net.  Watch  through  the  wrater  for  visitors,  and 
when  the  right  subject  is  at  the  bait  and  within  the  rings 
give  a  quick  jerk  and  pull  the  net  rapidly  to  the  surface. 
If  fish  are  to  be  caught  in  this  manner  the  hoops  should  be 
larger  and  one  more  added  to  the  net,  making  it  thirty  inches 
deep.  Fish  are  cunning  and  swift,  and  will  often  dart  up 
and  over  the  top  hoop  faster  than  you  can  haul  it  up. 


Part    III 
FLY-FISHING   AND   WILDERNESS   CAMPING 


Chapter  X 

HOW   TO   LEARN   FLY-FISHING 

EVERY  book  on  angling  contains  directions  for  acquiring 
this  art,  almost  universally  prefaced  by  the  statement 
that  little  can  be  learned  from  them.  Without  calling  in 
question  the  advantage  of  practical  instruction  by  an 
expert,  still  it  is  believed  no  little  progress  can  be  made 
in  its  absence. 

Assuming  the  possession  of  the  required  implements, 
the  next  essential  in  learning  to  cast  without  a  master  is 
companionship.  Thus  one  can  rest  and  encouragi  the 
other,  and  each  observe  and  coach  his  friend  during  his 
innings  at  the  rod.  In  nothing  does  the  old  adage,  ''the 
outsider  sees  most  of  the  game,"  more  directly  apply. 
Unconscious  faults  are  instantly  noted  by  "the  coach" 
and  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  caster,  as  well  as  the 
greater  or  less  degree  of  success  which  may  attend  effort 
to  correct  these.  The  innings  should  not  exceed  five  minutes 
each,  for  they  should  be  made  a  pleasure  and  not  a  toil. 

Access  to  water  is  quite  unnecessary — I  question  whether 
it  is  even  desirable.  In  the  city,  the  house-roof  may  be 
the  practice-ground;  in  the  country,  any  grass-plot  or  a 
snow-field.  Mark  your  stand,  and  measure  from  it  about 

117 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


twenty-five  or  thirty  feet.  There  place  a  folded  newspaper, 
retaining  it  in  position  by  stones  or  similar  weights  placed 
on  the  corners.  Let  this,  your  target,  be  about  eighteen 
to  twenty-four  inches  square,  and  of  several  thicknesses, 
so  that  a  hit  may  at  once  be  distinguished  from  a  miss 
by  the  rustle  of  the  line  on  the  paper.  Use  a  cheap  linen 
line  for  practice,  E  in  size,  and  without  leader  or  flies. 
A  braided  line  is  to  be  preferred.  This  will  perfectly  serve 
the  purpose,  and  save  whipping  out  the  more  expensive 
water-proof  line  you  will  employ  in  actual  fishing. 

To  acquire  a  proper  back  cast — throwing  the  line  behind 
preparatory  to  the  forward  cast — usually  gives  the  beginner 
the  most  trouble.  He  cannot  see  behind  him,  and  though 
he  fully  appreciates  that  his  forward  cast  is  a  botch,  he 
cannot  locate  the  difficulty,  and  knows  neither  to  what  it 
is  due  nor  how  it  is  to  be  overcome.  Here  the  eyes  of  his 
friend  supplement  those  of  the  caster.  Let  the  coach  make 
some  comment  on  every  cast  made,  as,  for  example,  "Your 
back  cast  was  too  low,"  "Your  line  did  not  straighten  out 
behind,"  "Your  forward  cast  was  too  quick,"  "Keep  your 
body  still,"  "Keep  your  elbow  to  your  side,"  "There,  that 
back  cast  was  all  right — try  to  repeat  it,"  etc.,  etc.,  remem- 
bering to  approve  the  good  as  well  as  condemn  the  bad; 
for  the  very  object  in  view  is  to  inform  the  caster  what  to 
cultivate  as  well  as  what  to  avoid. 

I  confidently  believe  that  two  persons  of  ordinary  clever- 
ness each  thus  aiding  the  other  can,  in  two  weeks'  time, 
with  say  one  hour's  daily  practice,  learn  to  cast  a  very 
fair  fly  and  in  an  easy  and  graceful  manner.  If  a  really 
experienced  instructor  can  be  had,  all  the  better;  but  the 

118 


Fig.  1 

[Note  that  the  illustration  shows  only  a  portion  of  the  rod] 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


supervision  of  a  self-taught  caster  of  limited  experience, 
who  insists  on  being  guided  solely  by  that  experience,  is 
to  be  avoided. 

First  Position 

The  coach  taking  his  stand  abreast  of  and  on  the  right 
of  the  caster,  and  at  such  a  distance  as  conveniently  to 
observe  every  motion,  let  the  latter  withdraw  from  the 
reel  line  equal  in  length  to  about  one  and  a  half  times  the 
length  of  his  rod.  The  thumb  of  the  casting  hand  must 
not  be  closed  up  on  its  fingers,  but  be  extended  and  bear 
upon  the  rod  itself.  Now  throw  the  tip  of  the  rod  upward 
and  behind  a  little,  but  only  a  little,  beyond  the  perpen- 
dicular. 

The  illustration  (Fig.  i)  from  a  photograph  from  life 
shows  the  extreme  limit  of  this  movement,  a  limit  by  no 
means  to  be  exceeded,  while  it  may  well  be  somewhat 
abridged. 

In  actual  fishing  the  casting  elbow  is  always  and  invari- 
ably to  be  held  quite  close  to  the  side,  and  the  forearm 
should  not  be  raised  beyond  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees 
with  the  horizon.  The  wrist,  however,  is  to  take  a  farther 
bend  upward  and  as  far  as  possible,  for  from  the  action 
of  this  joint  should  the  impulse  of  the  cast  be  almost  ex- 
clusively derived. 

I  am  aware  that  I  am  at  variance  with  the  precepts  of 
many  writers,  as  well  as  with  the  practice  of  many  excel- 
lent anglers,  in  the  direction  that  the  elbow  is  invariably 
close  to  the  side.  Some  cast  at  arm's-length,  and  largely 
with  the  shoulder- joint.  This  is  a  thoroughly  bad  method, 

I2Q 


HOW   TO   LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

fatiguing,  inefficient,  and  rivalling  in  grace  a  duck  on  land. 
Others  cast  with  the  elbow  to  or  near  the  body,  but  just 
before  the  flies  light  extend  the  arm  to  its  full  length,  as 
though  they  were  about  to  impale  something  on  the  point 


Fig.  2 

of  the  rod.  This  method  is  used  by  many  anglers  whom  I 
freely  acknowledge  to  be  my  superiors.  Notwithstanding, 
I  am  convinced  that  it  serves  no  useful  purpose  (except 
in  casting  for  distance  only)  not  otherwise  readily  attain- 
able, while  it  certainly  looks  labored  and  awkward.  The  one 
method  resembles  the  postures  of  a  trained  athlete,  no  por- 
tion or  member  of  his  body  in  motion  except  those  in  actual 
use;  the  others  approximate  in  greater  or  less  degree  to  the 
contortions  of  the  greenhorn,  every  limb  pawing  the  air. 
Though  the  elbow  partakes  slightly  at  the  beginning 

121 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


of  both  the  cast  and  recover,  still  it  is  the  wrist  that  is 
really  the  motive  power  in  casting.  The  illustrations  are 
taken  from  photographs  from  life.  Fig.  2  represents  the 
position  of  the  wrist  when  on  the  back  cast;  Fig.  3  the  wrist 
on  the  forward  cast.  Note  the  position  of  the  thumb. 

The  position  should  be  an  easy  one,  and  the  body  and 
the  unemployed  arm  should  be  kept  perfectly  still.  No 
habit  is  worse  in  casting  than  unnecessary  contortions  of 
the  one  or  flourishes  of  the  other.  Not  only  is  it  exceed- 


Fig.3 


ingly  awkward,  but  it  is  injurious  as  well,  since  it  is  motion 
rather  than  the  mere  sight  of  an  object  which  demoralizes 
the  fish. 

The  Back  Cast 

The   coach   will   pay   particular   attention   to   the   back 
cast,  for  if  this  is  mastered  all  else  follows.    It  is  the  secret 

122 


HOW   TO   LEARN   FLY-FISHING 

of  success.  In  practice,  the  end  of  the  line,  when  behind 
him,  should  in  no  case  fall  below  the  level  of  the  caster's 
head;  everything  below  that  should  be  regarded  as  a  fault. 
There  is  nothing  in  fly-fishing  which  so  promptly  grades 
an  angler  as  a  high  back  cast,  when  circumstances  permit 
its  use,  while  nothing  will  more  prejudice  reputation  for 
skill  than  the  habit,  even  when  sitting  in  a  boat,  of  allowing 
the  flies  to  touch  the  water  behind  the  caster.  Therefore 
cultivate  a  high  back  cast  with  the  utmost  assiduity.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  acquire  at  the  beginning,  though  this 
is  no  longer  the  case  when  another  and  different  habit  has 
been  formed. 

The  secret  of  this  is  to  throw  the  rod  but  little,  if  any, 
beyond  the  perpendicular  on  the  back  cast.  The  first 
illustration  (Fig.  i)  indicates  the  extreme  limit.  While 
the  butt-joint  is  nearly  upright,  the  upper  portion  of  the 
rod  will  bend  backward  still  more.  Rods  of  varying  flex- 
ibility vary  somewhat  in  this  respect.  The  stiff er  may. 
be  thrown  a  little  farther  back,  and  still,  since  they  bend 
less,  give  the  line  the  required  upward  direction.  I  trust 
I  have  emphasized  the  importance  of  this  sufficiently, 
as  well  as  made  clear  the  method  by  which  it  may  be 
attained. 

The  coach  must  next  see  to  it  that  the  caster  by  no 
means  begins  the  forward  impulse  until  the  line  has  extended 
behind  to  the  limit  of  its  length. 

Ignore  the  front  cast  altogether  in  the  first  lessons,  con- 
sidering it  merely  as  a  necessary  preparation  for  the  back 
cast,  and  as  otherwise  of  no  consequence  whatever.  Con- 
centrate the  attention  on  these  two  features  of  the  back 

123 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


cast  altogether  (except,  of  course,  to  insist  that  the  Unh- 
and unemployed  arm  are  motionless,  and  that  the  impulse 
proceeds  from  the  wrist).  Hang  to  these  two  points  as  if 
they  were  all  there  was  to  fly-casting,  for  really  this  as- 
sumption will  be  but  little  wide  of  the  truth. 

Having  given  the  backward  impulse  to  the  line,  it  will 
be  found  that  an  interval  must  intervene  between  this  and 
the  forward  impulse,  during  which  the  line  is  occupied  in 
straightening  itself  out.  This  pause  is  absolutely  essential, 
and  an  undue  abridgment  of  its  duration  is  the  most  com- 
mon of  all  faults.  It  varies,  of  course,  with  the  length  of 
line  used;  and  since  the  caster  cannot  see  behind  him, 
that  he  may  know  when  the  exact  moment  for  the  forward 
impulse  has  arrived,  he  must  use  the  eyes  of  another,  or 
experiment  in  the  dark. 

A  sensitive  hand  can  feel  a  drag  on  the  tip  when  the 
line  has  extended  properly  on  the  back  cast,  and  thus  tell 
when  to  begin  the  forward  movement,  no  matter  what 
length  of  line  may  be  in  use.  The  beginner  should  be  alert 
to  perceive  this,  for,  if  he  can,  it  will  materially  expedite 
his  progress. 

The  coach  will  therefore  watch  the  line,  and  when  it 
has  thus  extended  its  full  length  give  the  word  "Now!" 
Thereupon  let  the  caster  at  once  give  the  forward  impulse. 
It  will  require  a  little  practice  on  the  part  of  the  former 
to  give  the  word  at  the  proper  moment,  and  on  the  part 
of  the  latter  promptly  to  respond,  but  this  will  be  soon 
overcome. 

By  a  rigid  adherence  to  this  method  of  coaching  and 
practice,  a  high  back  cast,  and  the  allowance  of  the  proper 

124 


HOW   TO   LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

interval  for  the  line  to  straighten  out,  will  soon  become 
purely  automatic — a  mere  matter  of  instinct  adjusting 
itself  to  whatever  length  of  line  may  be  in  use,  without  a 
thought  or  an  effort  on  the  part  of  the  caster. 

When  this  is  accomplished,  and  stick  to  it  until  it  is,  the 
game  is  in  your  own  hands,  for  everything  else  follows 
almost  of  itself. 

The  Forward  Cast 

Now  some  attention  may  be  profitably  given  to  the 
forward  cast.  That  the  line  shall  fall  gently  upon  it,  the 
end  reaching  the  level  of  the  mark  first,  are  the  desiderata. 
To  accomplish  this,  throw  the  rod  forward,  remembering 
to  derive  the  impulse  from  the  wrist,  until  it  assumes  the 
position  shown  by  Fig.  4. 

Cast  not  at  the  mark,  but  as  though  an  object  three  or 
four  feet  above  it  were  the  bull's-eye.  Then  when  the  line 
has  unfolded  almost  its  entire  length,  raise  the  point  of 
the  rod  a  couple  of  feet  or  so.  This  will  turn  the  line  point 
foremost,  and  cause  the  end  to  alight  first.  If  the  force  of 
the  impulse  is  justly  proportioned  to  the  distance  to  be 
covered,  the  line  will  fall  by  its  own  gravity  alone  upon  the 
paper;  but  if  too  much  power  has  been  applied  it  will 
strike  hard,  or  recoil  and  fall  short  of  the  mark.  That 
cast  is  the  most  perfect  in  which  the  minimum  of  force  is 
employed,  and  the  beginner  must  make  constant  effort 
to  see  with  how  little  exertion  he  can  accomplish  the  result. 
He  will  find  that  very  little  power  is  required  even  for  quite 
a  long  line — say  fifty-five  feet — and  that  the  line  falls  most 
lightly  and  straightest  in  those  casts  where  the  power  is 

I25 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Fig.  4 

[Note  that  the  illustration  shows  only  a  portion  of  the  rod] 

justly  proportioned,  and  not  in  excess  of  the  work  to  be 
done. 

After  about  a  week's  daily  practice  has  given  consider- 
able skill  to  the  right  hand,  and  the  habit  of  a  high  back 

126 


HOW    TO    LEARN    FLY-FISHING 


fly  and  the  pause  is  pretty  well  formed,  begin  to  educate 
the  left  hand  as  well,  and  after  that  practice  both  alter- 
nately. To  be  able  to  use  either  hand  indifferently  is  a  great 
accomplishment.  Whatever  is  worth  doing  is  worth  doing 
well.  Begin  and  continue  your  practice  with  the  fixed 
intention  to  become  second  to  none  in  skill,  and  educate 
the  left  hand,  with  the  right,  as  one  of  the  steps  in  that 
direction. 

Experience  by  this  time  will  have  taught  that  the  line 
must  be  so  thrown  behind  on  the  back  cast  as  neither  to 
strike  the  caster  nor  the  rod  in  its  flight. 

When  the  overhead  cast  is  mastered,  and  you  can  get 
out  fifty-five  to  sixty  feet  of  line  fair,  straight,  and  light, 
and  without  much  conscious  exertion  of  force,  and  this  with 
a  high  back  fly  and  the  proper  pause,  then  you  are  ready 
for  another  step  forward.  Practise  casting  over  the  left 
shoulder  for  two  or  three  lessons,  and  then  casting  side- 
ways— i.e.,  moving  the  rod  horizontally  or  nearly  so.  The 
same  principles  govern  success  in  these  as  in-  the  overhead 
cast.  But  first  thoroughly  master  the  overhead  cast; 
these  modifications  will  then  seem  a  mere  bagatelle. 

Permit  me  to  caution  you  in  the  most  decided  manner 
not  to  strive  after  a  long  cast,  for  this  is  the  sure  way  never 
to  attain  it.  Let  this  take  care  of  itself.  By  no  means 
attempt  thirty-five  feet  until  thirty  can  be  cast  without 
perceptible  effort,  and  that  in  good,  cleanly  fashion.  Do 
your  practising,  after  you  have  attained  the  complete 
mastery  of  forty  feet,  at  that  distance.  At  the  end  of  the 
lesson  take  a  couple  of  innings  or  so  at  forty-three  to  forty- 
five  feet,  thus  making  your  distance  practice  an  entirely 
<)  127 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


separate  and  distinct  thing.  Hang  to  that  distance  until 
you  master  it  completely  and  with  perfect  ease,  and  then, 
and  not  till  then,  add  two  or  three  feet  and  not  more.  Pro- 
ceed in  this  way,  adding  but  two  or  three  feet  at  most  at 
each  increase,  and  sticking  to  that  until  you  master  it 
completely  before  attempting  more.  At  over  forty-five  feet 
you  should  devote  at  least  a  week  to  the  next  additional 
three  feet,  without  a  thought  of  anything  beyond.  Fifty 
feet  is  about  the  maximum  fishing  distance  ordinarily 
employed;  but  by  rigid  adherence  to  these  rules  you  will 
easily  acquire  command  of  seventy  feet,  provided  you 
master  the  high  back  cast  and  the  pause.  Otherwise  you 
will  never  be  able  to  do  fifty-five  feet  decently. 

The  Strike 

In  swift  water  the  fish  generally  hook  themselves,  but 
not  so  in  still  water.  Here  the  strike  must  follow  the  rise, 
as  its  shadow  -follows  a  cloud.  This,  too,  may  be  acquired 
without  approaching  the  water,  and  must  be  practised 
until  purely  automatic.  To  acquire  this  the  caster  must 
cast,  draw  his  line  toward  him,  trailing  it  on  the  ground, 
and,  at  the  word  "Strike!"  from  the  coach,  retrieve  the  line 
at  once.  The  coach  should  use  care  to  give  the  word  at 
irregular  times,  so  that  the  caster  may  not  anticipate  him. 
When  considerable  skill  and  promptness  in  response  has 
been  acquired  the  coach  should  abandon  giving  the  word 
and  signal  the  proper  moment  by  dropping  a  pebble  on 
the  paper,  standing  close  to  it  for  this  purpose.  The  instant 
the  pebble  falls  the  strike  should  follow.  Strike  lightly 

128 


HOW    TO   LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

if  you  can,  but  at  all  events  strike  quickly.  Many  of  the 
angling  books  direct  that  the  strike  be  made  from  the  reel — 
that  is,  with  the  line  perfectly  free  to  render  except  for 
such  resistance  as  the  click  of  the  reel  may  impose.  Thus, 
if,  in  his  anxiety  to  strike  quickly,  the  angler  strikes  too 
hard,  the  surplus  force,  in  theory  at  least,  is  expended  in 
drawing  line  from  the  reel,  instead  of  being  transmitted 
to  the  leader  or  flies  to  the  peril  of  their  hold  upon  the  fish. 
This  theory,  like  many  others,  is  not  independent  of  cir- 
cumstances. When  a  very  fine  leader  is  in  use,  together 
with  flies  so  small  that  the  least  effort  will  bury  them  over 
the  barb,  this  is  without  doubt  the  proper  practice.  But 
it  is  obvious  that  where  the  hooks  are  larger,  the  water  free 
from  current,  and  a  long  line  is  in  use,  there  is  more  work 
to  be  done  in  striking  than  with  small  flies  and  on  quick 
water  where  the  current  buoys  up  the  line.  The  object  is 
to  transmit  the  strike  to  the  taken  fly  with  the  least  possible 
delay.  Therefore  a  degree  of  force  which  would  be  more 
than  ample  in  the  one  case  may  be  quite  inadequate  in  the 
other. 

For  small  fish  or  small  flies  a  mere  turn  of  the  wrist  is 
the  proper  and  artistic  thing,  but  for  larger  ones  this  method 
is  a  delusion.  Then  you  must  ''sock  it  to  them,"  with  the 
line  firmly  held  under  the  first  finger  of  the  casting  hand, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Indeed,  after  the  beginner  has  gained 
some  command  of  his  nerves,  so  that  while  striking  quickly 
he  can  graduate  his  energy  to  the  size  of  his  flies,  the  length 
of  line  he  has  on  the  water,  and  the  magnitude  of  the  fish, 
I  am  not  sure  that  this  is  not  the  best  method  at  all  times. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  without  relaxing  the  grip  of  the  rod 

129 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


the  line  may  be  firmly  nipped  or  allowed  to  render  freely 
from  the  reel  by  simply  closing  or  slightly  raising  the  first 
finger.  Then  if  it  is  desired  to  fish  over  more  water  than 
would  be  possible  if  the  rod  alone  was  relied  on  to  move 
the  fly,  the  rod  may  be  gradually  raised  to  the  most  advan- 
tageous angle  for  the  strike  and  kept  in  that  position,  while 
the  movement  of  the  fly  is  continued  by  drawing  in  the 


Fig.  5 

line  with  the  free  hand,  raising  the  finger  while  the  line  is 
drawn  in,  and  closing  the  finger  down  on  the  line  and  rod 
handle  when  the  free  hand  has  drawn  in  all  the  line  it  can 
and  must  reach  up  for  a  fresh  hold.  Thus  the  fly  can  be 
well  fished  over  all  the  water  between  the  caster  and  the 
extreme  limit  he  is  able  to  cast.  This  method  is  very  advan- 
tageous in  fishing  still  water,  or,  indeed,  all  water  where  a 
rise  may  happen  at  any  part  of  the  path  the  fly  so  handled 
may  traverse.  Personally  I  employ  this  method  constantly 

130 


HOW    TO    LEARN    FLY-FISHING 


in  my  own  fishing,  using  the  reel  comparatively  little.  If 
I  fasten  a  fish,  I  let  the  line  run  out  between  the  thumb 
and  first  finger  of  the  free  hand — the  hand  that  is  not  holding 
the  rod — pressing  the  line  more  or  less  according  to  the 
resistance  it  seems  advisable  to  impose  upon  the  fish. 
When  fishing  from  a  canoe  or  boat  I  allow  the  line  to  drop 
upon  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  at  my  feet  as  I  draw  it  in, 
being  careful,  however,  not  to  step  on  it.  If  wading,  the 
loop  of  the  line  falls  in  the  water  and  runs  down  with  the 
current.  If  fishing  from  the  bank  the  length  of  the  loop  is 
so  limited  that  it  shall  not  reach  the  ground,  lest  it  either 
catch  on  something,  or  sand  adhere  to  the  wet  line  and  so 
be  drawn  into  the  reel  when  the  line  is  ultimately  wound 
up  on  it. 

A  Cardinal  Principle 

This  method  has  a  further  advantage:  The  cardinal 
principle  in  playing  a  fish  is  to  get  it  away  from  the  place 
where  it  was  fastened  and  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  where 
one  can  watch  its  pranks,  as  soon  as  possible.  The  reasons 
for  this  are  threefold  and  obvious.  Trout  love  cover,  and 
the  place  where  they  harbor  is  apt  to  be  snaggy.  To  foul 
a  snag  when  a  decent-sized  fish  is  on  is  to  abandon  hope 
in  nine  cases  out  of  ten.  Again,  where  one  fish  is  hooked 
others  are  apt  to  be,  and  further  sport  may  be  reasonably 
looked  for  provided  suspicion  is  not  aroused  by  the  gyra- 
tions of  the  fish  already  fastened.  Furthermore,  hidden 
dangers  are  those  most  to  be  dreaded,  since,  while  we  may 
by  skill  and  good  judgment  avoid  those  we  can  see,  we 
must  trust  to  blind  luck  to  escape  those  we  cannot  see. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Now  any  trout,  I  care  not  what  its  size  may  be,  can  be 
dragged  quite  a  distance  from  the  place  where  it  was  hooked 
with  no  more  resistance  than  if  it  were  inert,  provided 
the  angler  begins  to  drag  on  it  the  instant  it  is  fastened. 
It  seems  as  if  they  did  not  realize  for  the  moment  what  had 
happened  to  them.  The  secret  is  to  get  a  move  on  them 
at  once  and  to  keep  them  moving.  The  ordinary  reel  is 
not  quick  enough,  and  the  automatic  reel  is  too  weak  to  do 
this.  But  by  the  method  just  described  I  have  done  it 
time  and  time  again,  with  never  a  failure,  in  water  so  ob- 
structed that  no  other  course  afforded  reasonable  prospect 
of  ultimate  success. 

But  to  return  to  the  strike:  Promptness  to  respond 
to  a  rise  without  a  suspicion  of  hesitancy  is  practically  the 
important  point.  I  have  found  it  far  more  difficult  to  induce 
the  many  beginners  it  has  been  my  privilege  to  instruct 
to  strike  promptly  than  to  cast  a  very  decent  fly.  One  and 
all,  especially  ladies,  seem  to  act  as  though  they  simply 
could  not  strike  until  the  fish  was  felt.  Then,  of  course, 
barring  accidents,  it  is  too  late.  If  the  beginner,  when  he 
sees  the  commotion  of  a  fish  near  the  fly,  will  only  try  to 
snatch  it  away  so  quickly  that  the  fish  cannot  reach  it,  he 
will  do  just  what  he  ought  to  do  and  just  what  the  experi- 
enced angler  does. 

I  have  here  laid  out  what  I  take  to  be  about  two  months' 
to  two  and  a  half  months'  work.  Certainly  it  can  be  com- 
passed in  a  single  close  season.  Access  to  water,  I  believe, 
will  prove  rather  a  drawback  than  an  advantage,  tending 
to  distract  the  attention  from  the  main  object  in  view, 
the  formation  of  a  correct  habit. 

132 


HOW   TO   LEARN   FLY-FISHING 


At  the  expiration  of  that  period,  I  believe  that  two  per- 
sons of  average  adaptability,  each  aiding  the  other,  can 
with  patience  and  perseverance,  and  by  strictly  following 
the  directions  contained  in  this  chapter,  become  proficient 
in  casting  the  fly  to  a  degree  not  by  any  means  common 
even  among  experienced  anglers.  True,  this  is  not  all  of 
fly-fishing ;  but  then  the  attention  is  thereafter  free  to  devote 
itself  to  those  lessons  learned  only  from  Nature's  book, 
face  to  face  with  Nature  herself.  Then  what  the  mind  di- 
rects, that  the  muscles  can  execute,  and  thus  the  experience 
of  years  can  be  compressed  into  a  comparatively  brief 
period. 

The  Manipulation  of  the  Fly 

But  casting  is  by  no  means  all  of  fly-fishing.  It  is  an  art, 
and  one  not  easy  to  acquire  in  perfection;  but  the  greater 
part  of  the  difficulty  usually  experienced  is  due  to  a  faulty 
beginning,  and  to  vicious  and  pertinacious  habits  thus 
unconsciously  formed. 

Some  act  and  talk  as  though  casting,  were  the  entire 
art  of  fly-fishing,  and  grade  an  angler  solely  by  the  distance 
he  can  cover  with  his  flies.  This  is  a  great  mistake  and 
pernicious  in  its  influence.  Casting  is  but  a  method  of 
placing  the  fly  before  the  trout  without  alarming  it,  and 
within  its  reach.  It  is  merely  placing  food  before  a  guest. 
The  selection  of  such  food  as  will  suit,  and  so  serving  it  as 
to  please  a  fastidious  and  fickle  taste,  still  remain  indis- 
pensably necessary  to  induce  its  acceptance. 

But  the  manipulation  of  the  fly  after  it  has  touched  the 
water  is  quite  another  matter.  Without  undue  violation 

133 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


of  the  proprieties  it  may  be  considered  a  part  of  the  cast, 
and  it  is  proposed  so  to  treat  it. 

Nothing  during  the  past  season  has  more  impressed  me 
than  the  fact,  if  fact  it  be,  that  in  no  single  point  in  fly- 
fishing was  error  more  common  than  in  this.  Not  so  much 
where  a  strong  current  lends  instant  aid  to  the  angler  is 
this  apparent;  as  in  the  fishing  of  pools  and  of  still  water 
— the  very  places  where  the  best  fish  are  usually  to  be 
found.  Nor  is  it  a  fault  of  the  beginner,  but  rather  of  those 
whose  proficiency  is  otherwise  considerable. 

To  such,  if  any,  who  with  limited  practical  experience 
may  become  facile  casters  by  following  the  precepts  of  this 
chapter,  a  careful  consideration  of  the  following  problem 
is  recommended,  for  they  stand  in  a  position  of  special 
danger.  The  problem  is: 

i  st.  To  place  the  fly  within  reach  of  the  trout  without 
alarming  it. 

2d.  So  to  handle  it  as  to  simulate  a  living  creature,  and 
one  tempting  to  its  appetite. 

3d.  To  do  this  in  such  a  manner  that,  if  the  fly  is  touched, 
the  trout  shall  infallibly  be  fastened. 

It  is  neither  to  the  first  nor  to  the  second  of  these  points 
that  I  would  call  attention.  But  the  third  is  well  worthy 
the  study  of  every  angler,  old  or  new. 

Confining  our  attention  to  pool  and  still-water  angling, 
it  is  rare  that  a  trout,  unless  gaunt  with  famine,  takes  a 
fly  the  moment  it  touches  the  water,  and  then  only  when 
the  stratum  which  intervenes  between  it  and  the  fly  is 
shallow.  Taking  any  season  through,  and  I  am  inclined 
to  think  that  at  least  ninety-nine  out  of  every  hundred 


HOW   TO    LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

trout  captured  in  such  water  will  be  found  to  have  taken 
the  fly  after  it  has  been  moved  from  the  place  where  it 
first  fell.  It  is  also  true  that  in  such  water  some  demon- 
stration on  the  part  of  the  angler  is  usually  necessary  to 
fasten  the  hook  after  the  fly  has  been  taken,  or  it  will  be 
rejected  and  the  opportunity  lost;  also  that  the  interval 
during  which  this  may  successfully  be  done  is  brief. 

Now  it  is  mathematically  certain  that  when  the  rod  is 
at  a  right  angle  with  the  line  a  given  movement  of  the 
tip  of  the  rod  will  transmit  its  impulse  with  the  greatest 
rapidity,  and  with  the  maximum  of  effect,  through  the 
line,  since  then  there  is  the  least  possible  lost  motion.  It 
is  also  certain  that  when  the  rod  and  line  form  one  straight 
line  a  very  considerable  upward  movement  of  the  tip  is 
followed  by  but  slight  retraction  of  the  line;  there  is  then 
much  lost  motion,  and  consequently  the  impulse  is  tardily 
conveyed  to  the  hook. 

It  is  equally  indisputable  that  when  the  rod  is  so  raised 
that  the  line  is  parallel  with  it,  or  nearly  so,  all  command 
over  the  former  is  gone;    the  rod  has  already  shortened 
the  line  all  it  possibly  can,  and  the  power  to  strike  is  lost. 
The  problem  is  a  most  simple  one. 

Let  us  suppose  the  tip  of  the  rod  to  be  pointing  at  an 
object  exactly  forty  feet  distant  from 'it.  Now  suppose 
the  tip  to  be  raised  three  feet,  the  end  describing  in  so 
doing  the  arc  of  a  circle  of  which  the  hand  is  the  centre, 
as  in  actual  fishing.  Clearly,  now,  that  end  is  more  distant 
from  the  assumed  point  than  before,  and  more  line  would 
be  required  to  reach  it;  or,  in  other  words,  the  line,  if  it 
did  not  break,  must  either  stretch  or  move  that  difference. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Thus  a  theoretical  measure  of  the  efficiency  of  the  "strike" 
at  any  angle  of  the  rod  may  be  obtained.  Construction  of  the 
proper  diagrams  will  also  show  that  the  strike  becomes  less 
and  less  efficient  as  the  length  of  the  line  increases,  and  also  as 
the  hand  actuating  the  rod  approaches  the  level  of  the  water. 

I  have  said  a  theoretical  measure,  and  advisedly,  since 
we  have  been  treating  the  fly-rod  as  though  it  were  as  stiff 
as  a  telegraph-pole.  Clearly  we  must  take  its  flexibility 
into  account,  since  before  the  movement  of  the  tip  can 
overcome  the  inertia  of  the  line  and  the  friction  of  the  water 
upon  it  the  rod  must  bend  until  the  tension  of  its  elas- 
ticity is  in  excess  of  that  inertia  and  friction  combined. 
Thus  we  see  that  another  deduction  must  be  made  from 
the  efficiency  of  the  strike,  one  rapidly  increasing  in  amount 
as  the  length  of  line,  and  its  consequent  inertia  and  friction 
from  contact  with  the  water,  increases. 

Based  upon  these  considerations  was  the  suggestion 
heretofore  made  that  a  cast  of  five  and  a  half  times  the 
length  of  the  rod  approximated  closely  to  the  extreme 
efficient  limit  in  practical  fly-fishing — assuming  the  caster 
to  be  wading  knee-deep  or  sitting  in  a  fairly  high-sided  boat. 
A  quick  eye  and  a  prompt  hand,  trained  by  long  practice, 
may  extend  this  distance  somewhat,  but  I  believe  not  much. 
The  stiffness  of  the  rod  used  is  also  a  variable  factor  effecting 
the  result.  I  therefore  personally  prefer  a  rod  as  stiff  as  is 
consistent  with  pleasurable  casting. 

Practical  Conclusion 

If  our  mathematics  are  correct,  the  following  practical 
conclusions  would  seem  necessarily  to  follow: 

136 


HOW    TO    LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

i  st.  -Invariably  use  as  short  a  line  as  circumstances  will 
permit. 

2cL  If  it  has  not  been  done  in  the  cast  itself,  at  once 
elevate  the  tip  of  the  rod  until  it  forms  an  angle  with  the 
line,  and  let  that  angle  be  as  near  a  right  angle  as  the 
length  of  line  in  use  and  the  reserved  movement  of  the  rod 
required  to  manipulate  and  retrieve  the  flies  will  permit. 

3d.  By  no  means  draw  the  flies  so  far  toward  you  as 
seriously  to  impair,  much  less  altogether  to  lose,  the  power 
to  strike.  In  either  case  you  will  almost  certainly  lose 
your  fish,  and  in  the  latter  your  rod  will  probably  be  shat- 
tered. 

The  fault,  or  I  should  say  faults,  for  there  are  two  in 
number,  notice  of  the  prevalence  of  which  impelled  me  to 
add  to  this  chapter,  are: 

ist.  A  tendency  to  use  an  altogether  unnecessary  length 
of  line;  or,  in  other  words,  to  shirk  good  water,  within 
distances  in  which  the  advantage  would  be  with  the  angler, 
to  fish  more  distant  and  less  promising  places  at  a  dis- 
advantage. 

2d.  Postponing  the  back  cast  until  the  power  to  strike 
is  nearly  or  quite  lost. 

I  repeat,  that  he  who  has  acquired  the  knack  of  casting 
with  facility,  without  other  and  further  knowledge  of  the 
art,  is  almost  sure  to  err  in  these  respects.  I  cannot  too 
strenuously  urge  this  upon  the  attention  of  the  beginner. 
If  the  fish  are  very  shy,  the  pool  promising,  and  to  be  fished 
from  the  bank,  cut  a  bush  your  own  height;  approach 
the  pool  slowly,  holding  it  between  you  and  where  you 
suppose  the  trout  to  lie,  and  when  you  have  reached  your 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


station  rest  the  butt  end  on  the  ground,  supporting  your 
blind  with  the  left  hand.  When  a  fish  is  fastened  get  him 
into  barren  water  as  soon  as  possible,  following  him  still, 
if  you  can,  under  cover  of  your  blind.  A  very  slight  cover 
and  the  avoidance  of  quick  motion  are  sufficient  to  insure 
success,  if  the  fish  are  disposed  to  feed. 

In  regard  to  the  second  fault  in  our  enumeration,  that 
of  postponing  the  back  cast  till  the  power  to  strike  is  im- 
paired, there  is  a  way  to  surmount  it,  which,  though  it 
may  be  in  common  use  in  some  localities,  I  have  never  seen 
employed  except  by  the  gentleman  from  whom  I  borrowed 
it.  For  it  may  well  happen  that,  when  the  angler  would 
prefer  to  take  his  flies  off  the  water,  he  has  reason  to  suppose 
a  trout  is  on  the  way  to  them.  If  the  fish  is  a  large  one, 
the  probability  of  coaxing  a  second  rise  may  be  doubtful. 
It  is  not  wise  to  arrest  the  motion  of  the  fly,  since  one  has 
been  found  that  is  attractive,  and  who  can  tell,  if  it  halts, 
whether  he  will  not  follow  suit  ?  So  the  temptation  to  post- 
pone the  back  cast  becomes  almost  irresistible,  usually 
entailing  the  consequences  of  yielding  to  temptation. 

I  can  give  a  case  in  point,  and  from  my  own  past  experi- 
ence. 

A  Fish   Story 

It  was  September  and  was  decidedly  an  off  month  in 
Maine  waters.  The  weather  held  on  warm,  and  the  cus- 
tomary cold  rains  held  off,  in  a  most  exasperating  manner. 
So  the  big  fish  held  off  too.  John  and  I  made  up  our  minds 
to  follow  them  to  where  they  lived.  It  was  a  tough  job, 
involving  lots  of  hard  work,  poling  a  light  canoe-shaped  boat 
over  rapids,  paddling  it  over  pools,  and  lifting  it  over  or 

138 


HOW   TO   LEARN    FLY-FISHING 

crowding  it  under  the  numerous  giants  of  the  forest,  which 
the  winter  gales  of  years  had  uprooted  and  thrown  into  the 
stream.  Thus  we  traversed  some  three  miles  of  a  river 
which,  as  far  as  known,  had  been  fished  but  once  before, 
and  that  five  years  previously.  It  was  the  perfection  of  a 
trout-stream — clear  and  cold,  a  succession  of  deep  pools 
alternated  with  rapids,  while  the  primeval  forest  through 
which  it  took  its  way  shaded  the  waters,  and  furnished 
with  its  ruins  abundant  cover.  Above  and  below  I  knew 
the  stream  well,  and  hundreds  of  trout  had  taken  my  flies 
therein. 

The  descending  sun  warned  us  that  we  would  be  benighted 
in  the  woods  before  we  could  regain  our  camp,  as  we  entered 
the  foot  of  the  pool  which  we  determined  should  mark  our 
return.  Yet  not  even  one  single  rise  had  I  had  all  day. 
It  may  be  they  had  abandoned  that  portion  of  the  river 
on  the  way  to  their  spawning-beds,  or  they  may  have  taken 
a  pledge  of  total  abstinence;  but  whatever  the  cause,  such 
was  the  result,  and  a  sufficiently  aggravating  result  it  was. 
For  we  had  footed  it  four  miles  through  the  woods,  and  had 
forced  a  boat  through  some  six  or  seven  miles  of  quick 
water,  the  latter  part  greatly  obstructed,  and  had  cast  all 
day  long  at  every  available  opportunity,  and  had  as  yet 
caught  nothing.  A  like  return  intervened  between  us  and 
both  food  and  shelter. 

We  entered  the  pool,  the  canoe  gliding  slowly  over  its 
placid  surface  under  the  impulse  of  John's  skilful  paddle. 
The  still  water  was  perhaps  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long, 
some  seventy-five  feet  wide,  and  of  unknown  depth.  Over 
and  among  "coarse  rocks"  the  river  poured  in  a  heavy 
rapid  into  its  upper  end,  and  left  it  in  the  same  manner. 
Surely  few  pools  approach  more  closely  the  angler's  ideal. 
The  overhanging  forest  forced  us  to  take  pretty  well  to 
the  middle,  that  there  might  be  room  for  the  back  cast, 
and  the  position  of  the  canoe  compelled  a  cast  somewhat 
ahead  rather  than  abeam,  in  order  that  the  fly  should  light 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


where  the  trout,  if  any,  might  be  expected  to  lie.  The 
motion  of  the  boat  in  the  direction  of  the  cast  continually 
tended  to  slacken  the  line,  for  which  compensation  had  to 
be  made  by  abbreviating  the  time  during  which  the  fly 
was  allowed  to  remain  on  the  water,  by  accelerating  the 
motion  of  the  rod  when  moving  it,  and  by  abridging  the 
length  of  the  cast. 

At  last  I  saw  a  gleam  of  gold  down  in  the  depths,  and 
a  trout  appeared  wagging  his  way  upward  toward  my 
fly,  with  the  deliberation  characteristic  of  trout  of  size 
in  those  waters.  As  he  approached  the  surface  his  vivid 
colors  proclaimed  his  sex  through  the  crystal  water,  and 
I  was  enabled  to  gauge  his  weight  at  about  five  pounds. 
Clearly  he  was  a  nice  fish,  and  I  assured  myself  of  from 
twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour  of  sucti  sport  as  would 
fully  make  good  the  labors  and  disappointments  of  the  day. 

But  the  time  for  the  back  cast  had  come,  and  he  had 
not  reached  the  fly.  What  was  to  be  done?  If  it  were 
taken  from  the  water,  and  he  turned  to  go  back  after  seeing 
me,  as  he  must  do,  and  especially  after  seeing  the  motion 
incident  to  the  back  cast,  there  would  not  be  one  chance 
in  ten  of  coaxing  him  up  again.  So,  hoping  that  he  would 
take  it  before  the  power  to  strike  should  be  utterly  gone, 
I  reduced  the  motion  of  the  fly  to  the  minimum,  and  awaited 
the  event. 

At  last  he  reached  it,  and  the  fly  vanished.  Then  I  struck 
with  the  vigor  rendered  necessary  by  the  disadvantage 
that  I  was  under,  and  stimulated  by  the  consciousness  that 
I  had  committed  a  stupid  blunder.  He  turned  downward, 
the  bamboo  doubled  up,  and  the  reel  sang.  In  a  moment 
the  sound  ceased,  the  rod  straightened  itself,  the  fly  came 
back  to  me  empty-handed,  and  he  was  gone. 

No  offer  could  have  been  fairer,  and  I  could  not  for  a 
moment  blind  myself  to  the  fact  that  the  loss  was  clearly 
my  own  fault.  So  I  fell  to  abusing  myself  in  no  measured 
terms.  Now,  when  a  man  attacks  himself  he  is  sure  to  get 

.  140 


HOW    TO   LEARN   FLY-FISHING 

the  worst  of  it;  so  John,  who  at  heart  was  doubtless  as  much 
disappointed  as  I,  came  to  the  rescue,  and  exercised  his 
ready  wit  in  the  invention  of  excuses.  But  I  silenced  him 
with,  "John,  you  know  you  are  just  as  much  disgusted 
with  me  as  I  am  with  myself.  You  know  that  that  fish 
was  lost  by  my  own  gross  stupidity;  there  is  really  no 
excuse  for  it,  not  even  that  I  knew  no  better.  There,  let 
us  drop  the  subject  and  go  back  to  camp.  I  am  through 
fishing,  at  any  rate  for  to-day." 

Emergencies  of  this  character  arise  continually  in  the 
experiences  of  every  angler,  especially  if  he  fishes  much 
in  strange  waters  where  he  seeks  to  locate  the  trout  by 
casting  from  a  moving  boat.  The  following  is  a  remedy: 

The  rod  should  be  so  held  that  the  line  leads  from  the 
reel  over  all  the  fingers  of  the  hand  employed,  except  the 
first.  Under  that  finger  it  passes,  so  that  it  may  be  com- 
pressed against  the  handle  of  the  rod  and  checked  at  will, 
or  relaxed,  and  allowed  to  render  from  the  reel,  by  partially 
opening  or  tightly  closing  that  finger. 

Now,  when  the  angler  has  reason  to  believe  a  rising 
fish  will  not  reach  his 'fly  before  it  ought  to  be  taken  off 
the  water,  or  when  he  has  overcast  a  choice  spot,  and 
cannot  draw  his  flies  across  it  without  wholly  or  in  part 
losing  the  power  to  strike,  if  he  will  arrest  his  rod  when 
in  the  most  favorable  position,  and  then,  seizing  the  line 
with  his  left  hand  near  the  lower  ring  of  the  rod,  draw  it 
through  the  rings,  being  careful  always  to  nip  it  with  the 
first  finger  of  his  right  hand  when  he  shifts  his  left  for  a 
fresh  hold,  he  can  thus  keep  his  fly  still  in  motion,  even  to 
the  extent  of  all  the  line  he  has  out,  and  at  the  same  time 
always  retain  unimpaired  the  power  to  strike.  After  the 

141 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


fish  is  fastened,  he  may  be  played  upon  the  slack-line  hang- 
ing between  the  lower  ring  and  the  reel,  by  allowing  it  to 
render  between  the  thumb  and  finger  of  the  left  hand,  thus 
keeping  up  the  required  tension.  In  this  manner  he  may 
be  brought  to  the  net  if  small;  while  if  of  such  size  that 
a  protracted  contest  is  to  be  expected,  the  slack-line  will 
probably  be  wholly  taken  up  by  his  first  dash,  and  the 
angler  will  have  him  upon  the  reel,  thereafter  to  be  played 
in  the  usual  manner. 


Chapter  XI 

REPAIRS 

THIS  chapter  has  been  written  on  the  assumption  that 
the  reader  is  utterly  ignorant  of  this  most  important 
branch  of  the  art.  That  such  actually  is  the  case  with 
altogether  too  many  who  are  otherwise  experts  we  all 
know.  That  such  should  not  be  the  case  we  are  also  aware. 
Nothing  in  relation  to  the  art  will  better  repay  the  beginner, 
and  those  who  lack  this  information,  than  a  careful  study 
— not  merely  reading  over,  but  careful  study  in  the  scholar's 
sense  of  the  term— of  this  chapter.  For  to  say  nothing  of 
benefit  to  yourself  at  a  crisis,  what  pleasure  can  be  greater 
than  to  be  able  to  rescue  a  brother  angler  from  the  conse- 
quences of  disaster  to  his  tackle,  and  to  receive  thanks 
which  you  know  are  really  sincere  and  heartfelt?  At  the 
expense  of  a  little  trouble,  nay,  rather  while  amusing  your- 
self, you  have  at  the  same  time  made  a  friend,  and  put  him 
on  the  watch  for  opportunity  to  requite  the  obligation. 

Many  think  this  art  hopelessly  intricate,  and  are  dis- 
couraged from  any  effort  to  acquire  it;  but  this  is  a  great 
mistake,  for  there  is  nothing  in  it  insurmountable  to  the 
humblest  mechanical  skill.  The  most  common  error  is  to 
attempt  the  result  while  utterly  ignoring  the  means  by 

10  143 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


which  the  result  is  to  be  obtained — as  though  a  man  should 
wish  to  keep  books  without  first  learning  how  to  write.- 

First,  acquire  a  few  very  simple  principles,  and  the  rest 
follows  ''like  rolling  off  a  log." 

At  the  foundation  of  the  majority  of  repairs  lies  covering 
and  strengthening  the  injured  part  with  a  layer  of  silk 
thread,  tightly  wrapped  around  it.  It  is  thus  that  rings 
are  secured  to  rods,  and  breaks  repaired. 

Do  you  know  how  to  wind  a  string  around  a  stick  ?  That 
is  what  we  are  about  to  do.  But  if  you  really  wish  to  learn 
from  what  follows — if  you  really  wish  for  success — you 
must,  as  in  your  every-day  life,  accept  the  conditions  of 
success. 

As  to  knots,  and  manipulations  of  that  kind,  the  con- 
dition of  success  is  this:  Actually  try  each  step  with  the 
book  before  you,  and  following  its  directions;  be  sure  you 
understand  that  step  before  you  essay  the  next.  Thus  you 
will  be  led  to  the  goal  as  easily  as  you  walk  from  your  parlor 
to  your  dining-room,  with  hardly  an  appreciable  effort. 
But  if  you  attempt  to  cover  the  ground  in  either  case  with 
a  leap,  you  court  and  will  meet  failure. 

First  Principles 

Now  to  our  lesson  (see  Fig.  i). 

Take  a  round  cane  and  a  piece  of  fish-line,  or  string 
of  similar  size.  Wax  your  string.  It  will  facilitate  you. 
Hold  the  cane  in  your  left  hand,  knuckles  up  and  thumb 
to  the  right.  Place  the  end  A  on  top  of  the  cane  some- 
where near  the  middle,  and  nip  it  at  B  with  the  thumb 

144 


•    REPAIRS 

to  keep  it  in  place.  Bring  the  end  C  over  the  cane  on 
the  side  toward  you,  and  downward;  next  under  the  cane, 
and  upward,  but  on  the  side  away  from  you;  then  over 
the  top  of  the  cane  and  the  end  A,  and  hold  C  in  your  right 

C 


Fig.  J 

hand.  In  brief,  you  have  wrapped  the  part  C  once  around 
the  cane  and  over  the  part  A,  confining  that  part  to  the  cane. 
Now,  placing  some  part  of  the  cane  to  the  right  of  where 
you  have  begun  to  wind,  behind  anything,  E,  against  which 
you  can  pull,  .proceed  to  turn  the  cane  around  on  the  axis 
of  its  length,  keeping  a  steady  strain  on  the  end  C  with  your 
right  hand.  You  thus  roll  the  line  upon  the  cane,  just  as 
thread  is  rolled  on  a  spool,  or  a  rope  on  a  windlass,  drawing 
your  right  hand  up  to  the  cane,  unless  you  allow  the  line 
to  slip  through  your  fingers.  You  will  have  no  difficulty  in 
guiding  the  part  C,  so  that  each  turn  shall  lie  in  close  con- 
tact with  its  predecessors. 

You  have  rolled  on  four  complete  turns,  which  envelop 
the  cane  and  the  part  A  (Fig.  2),  confining  the  latter  to  the 
cane.  Now  shift  your  left  thumb  over  upon  and  nip  the 
coils  you  have  just  made,  c,  so  they  cannot  unwind,  Seize 

MS 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


the  end  A  and  draw  the  slack  of  the  first  turn,  b,  up  to 
and  against  the  others.  Then  continue  your  winding  for 
any  desired  length,  always  doing  this  by  using  the  cane  as 
a  roller,  turning  it  from  you.  You  will  make  each  succeed- 
ing turn  lie  more  neatly  against  its  predecessor  if  you  allow 
your  right  hand  to  be  drawn  up  to  the  cane,  rather 
than  permit  the  line  to  slip  through  your  fingers.  When 
shifting  the  right  hand  backward  for  a  fresh  hold  on  the 
part  C,  nip  the  turns  you  have  completed  with  the  thumb 
of  your  left  hand,  lest  they  unwind;  as,  indeed,  you  will 
do  in  any  case  when  you  wish  to  free  your  right  hand  for 
the  moment. 

We  have  now  completed  the  first  step.    You  see  that  it 

is  a  simple  matter,  and  one  within  the  scope  of  the  most 

B 


limited  mechanical  ability.  Notwithstanding,  repeat  this 
at  least  four  times  more,  winding  an  inch  and  a  half  each 
time,  before  proceeding  to  the  next  step. 

This  is  to  fasten  off  the  end  C,  for  we  cannot  hold  it 
forever. 

The  Invisible  Knot 

There  are  two  methods  of  accomplishing  this — one  easily 
acquired,  but  of  more  limited  applicability;    the  other  a 

146 


REPAIRS 

little  more  difficult,  but  at  the  same  time  equal  to  every 
emergency. 

The  first  consists  merely  in  this — that  instead  of  placing 
the  end  A  as  before,  you  double  it  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  placing 
the  bight  a  where  the  end  A  was  in  the  former  case,  and 


Fig.  3 


letting  the  actual  end  A  extend  at  least  three  or  four  inches 
to  the  left  of  where  you  wish  to  wind.  Having  completed 
your  winding,  nip  the  coils  with  the  right  thumb.  Then 
with  the  left  hand  pull  on  the  end  A  until  you  have  reduced 
the  bight  a  to  very  small  dimensions — say  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  or  less.  Now  with  the  right  hand  cut  the  part  C 
about  two  inches  in  length,  and  insert  the  end  through  the 
bight  a  close  to  the  winding.  Then,  seizing  the  end  A, 
draw  the  bight  a  through  and  under  the  winding,  which 
will  of  course  carry  the  end  C  with  it,  and  confine  it  under 
the  coils.  Then  cut  off  the  ends  close,  and  the  job  is  com- 
plete. Try  this  at  least  four  times,  and  then  proceed  to 
the  next  step. 

This  is  the  real  "invisible  knot,"  and  a  knowledge  of  it 
should  be  considered  absolutely  indispensable  to  the  angler. 
Begin  as  before.  Having  wrapped  four  or  five  times  over 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


the  end  A,  so  that  it  is  perfectly  secured,  cut  it  off  as  close 
as  you  can  to  the  wrapping,  so  that  you  have  only  the  end 
C  remaining.  Now  proceed  with  the  winding  until  within 
four  turns  of  as  far  as  you  wish  it  to  extend;  then  nip  the 
coils  already  made  with  the  left  thumb  so  they  cannot 
unwind,  cutting  off  the  end  C,  so  that  it  is  about  a  foot  long. 
Now  drop  it  down  between  you  and  the  cane,  next  under 
and  then  upward  behind  the  cane,  so  as  to  form  a  loop,  say, 
three  inches  across,  hanging  below  the  cane.  (Fig.  4.) 

If  you  meet  any  difficulty  at  all  with  this  knot  it  will 
be  here.    Remember  the  end  C  passes  downward  on  the  side 

toward  you,  and  upward  on  the  side  away  from  you.     Hold 
C 


Fig.  4 

the  cane,  as  soon  as  you  nip  the  coils  with  your  left  thumb, 
so  that  hand  points  to  the  right,  and  the  first  and  second 
fingers  are  free.  Throw  the  large  loop  over  those  fingers 
to  keep  it  open.  Then  make  three  or  four  turns  of  the  end 
C  between  the  point  where  the  large  loop  meets  the  cane 
a,  and  the  windings  you  wish  to  fasten,  6,  winding  toward 
the  latter.  You  will  find  this  operation  facilitated  by  throw- 
ing the  end  C  at  every  turn,  after  making  the  large  loop, 
between  the  first  and  second  fingers  of  the  left  hand,  holding 

148 


REPAIRS 

it  thus  until  you  can  reach  over  the  cane  with  the  right  hand, 
and  draw  the  end  C  through  the  loop.  Now  pass  the  end  C 
to  the  left,  under  the  left  thumb,  and  hold  it  down  on  the 
windings  already  made,  b;  then  hook  your  right  first  finger 
in  the  large  loop,  and,  putting  a  strain  on  it,  revolve  the  cane 
and  proceed  with  the  winding  as  at  first.  You  will  thus 
wind  on  as  many  turns  over  the  end  C  as  you  made  between 
a  and  6,  and  in  close  contact  with  those  you  wish  to  fasten. 
For  every  wind  you  so  add  you  will,  if  you  have  followed 
the  directions  carefully  and  correctly,  see  one  of  those 
between  a  and  b  unwind,  and  will  at  length  have  the  result 
shown.  (Fig.  5.) 

Now  seize  the  end  C  and  draw  up  the  slack  of  the  large 
loop  until  it  lies  in  close  contact  with  the  windings  you  are 


Fig.  5 

fastening.    Cut  off  the  end  as  close  as  you  can,  and  it  is  done. 

Repeat  this  until  firmly  fixed  in  your  mind,  and  you  have 

made  an  acquisition  that  will  many  times  repay  the  trouble. 

Now  let  us  apply  this  lesson,  taking  at  the  same  time  another 

step  forward. 

SCENE. — Trout-stream. 

ANGLER,  meeting  a  very  melancholy-looking  individual  with  the  frag- 
ments of  a  trout-rod  in  his  hands;  NOVICE,  equipped  for  fishing, 
but  with  a  broken  rod.  Time,  8  A.M. 

ANGLER.  Good-morning,  sir;   what  luck? 
NOVICE.  The  trout  are  rising  fairly  well;    I  have  caught 

149 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


a  few  nice  ones.  But  I  have  just  had  the  misfortune  to 
break  my  middle  joint  about  a  foot  below  the  smaller  end. 
I  have  come  a  long  distance  to  enjoy  a  couple  of  days' 
fishing,  and  my  opportunities  are  few;  and  as  I  have  no 
spare  piece  to  take  its  place,  I  am  afraid  my  fishing  is  at 
an  end  unless  I  take  to  bait,  and  for  that  I  have  little  taste. 
So  I  suppose  I  may  say  I  have  had  poor  luck. 

ANGLED.  How  did  it  happen  ? 

NOVICE.  It  may  be  that  I  was  using  too  long  a  line  for 
the  distance  I  wished  to  cover.  I  saw  a  nice-looking  spot, 
and  when  I  cast,  my  flies  reached  the  water  considerably 
beyond  it.  Instead  of  shortening  my  line,  I  undertook  to 
draw  my  flies  across  the  spot ;  and  when  my  rod  was  nearly 
upright,  a  nice  fish  struck  my  drop-fly,  and  you  see  the 
result.  I  am  but  a  beginner,  having  fished  with  the  fly 
but  a  few  times  before,  and  am  self-taught.  I  suppose  I 
must  expect  to  make  mistakes,  but  it  is  none  the  less  pro- 
voking to  lose  all  the  sport  which  I  had  anticipated  with  so 
much  pleasure. 

ANGLER.  Many  a  good  rod  is  broken  in  that  way.  Let 
me  see  the  break.  Why,  this  is  not  so  bad.  Why  don't 
you  splice  it  ? 

NOVICE.  I  don't  know  how. 

ANGLER.  Have  you  silk,  wax,  and  a  file  in  your  fly-book  ? 

NOVICE.  No,  I  have  nothing  of  the  kind,  I  am  sorry  to  say. 

ANGLER.  It  will  make  no  difference,  for  I  have  them. 
And  since  you  say  you  are  a  beginner,  I  will  repair  this 
accident  for  you,  and  at  the  same  time  give  you  a  few  hints 
which  may  be  of  value  in  the  future. 

NOVICE.  I  shall  be  very  much  obliged  if  you  will  be  so 
kind. 

ANGLER.  It  is,  or  should  always  be,  a  pleasure  for  one 
angler  to  help  another;  so  look  and  listen,  and  if  there  is 
anything  you  do  not  understand,  stop  me  at  once.  But 
first  I  would  say,  never  go  on  a  stream  again  without  plenty 
of  silk,  of  the  sizes  known  in  the  stores  as  A  or  B,  in  your 

150 


REPAIRS 

fly-book,  together  with  a  little  cobbler's  wax  flattened  out 
between  the  folds  of  a  piece  of  an  old  kid  glove.  A  quantity 
of  wax  which,  if  spherical,  would  measure  half  an  inch  in 
diameter  is  about  the  thing.  Also  you  should  have  a  flat 
file  of  rather  coarse  cut,  and  with  the  blade  from  five  to 
six  inches  long  and  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  wide,  like  this.  You  see  the  tang  is  broken  off  the  file, 
and  thus  shortened  I  can  carry  it  in  my  fly-book,  and  never 
know  it  is  there  till  I  need  it  for  use. 

Now  see:  I  take  my  pocket-knife  and  cut  a  long  slope 
on  each  of  the  broken  ends,  being  careful  to  make  them 
incline  in  different  ways,  and  of  such  slope  that  when  they 
are  laid  together  the  rod  will  not  be  larger  than  before.  I 
also  see  to  it  that  the  splice  is  so  situated  that  the  rings 
on  the  two  pieces  will  be  in  line  when  they  are  united. 
There,  I  have  finished  cutting,  and  you  see  when  I  place 
the  pieces  together  the  rings  are  in  line;  but  you  also  notice 
that  the  joint  is  not  a  very  good  fit.  Now  we  will  resort 
to  the  file.  You  notice  that  I  lay  the  file  down  and  place 
the  splice  upon  it;  and  while  rubbing  the  joint  to  and  fro 
on  the  file  I  press  the  wood  down  upon  it  with  the  fingers 
of  my  left  hand.  From  time  to  time  I  look  at  the  splice, 
and  see  how  the  filing  progresses.  (Fig.  6.) 


Fig.  6 

A  B,  portions  of  broken  joint;  C,  splice. 

The  file  will  cut  most  rapidly  where  the  pressure  is  great- 
est, so  that  by  varying  the  pressure  with  a  little  judgment 
the  splice  is  soon  made  perfectly  true,  as  I  have  done  this. 
Now  we  will  finish  the  other;  so,  there  they  are  complete. 
Now  place  them  together  and  see  what  you  think  of  it. 

NOVICE.  They  fit  perfectly.  The  rod  is  not  enlarged  and 
the  rings  are  in  line.  I  am  astonished  that  it  could  be  done 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


in  so  short  a  time,  and  by  means  so  simple.  I  really  believe 
I  could  do  it  myself.1 

ANGLER.  Without  the  slightest  doubt.  In  mechanics, 
as  in  life,  skill  consists  in  adapting  your  means  to  your  end ; 
the  desired  result  then  almost  necessarily  follows.  You  see 
that  when  I  rubbed  the  splice  on  the  file  only  the  high  places 
touched.  Of  course  these  were  soon  cut  away,  and  the 
surface  became  even  of  itself,  so  to  speak. 

Now  we  have  to  unite  the  splice,  and  you  will  then  be 
ready  to  continue  your  sport.  If  this  was  in  the  evening 
I  should  melt  some  fresh  glue — fish-glue  (or  isinglass  as  it 
is  sometimes  called)  if  it  could  be  had.  Having  completely 
melted  some  of  this  in  sufficient  water,  so  that  it  felt  between 
the  thumb  and  finger  as  if  it  had  considerable,  but  not  too 
much,  body,  I  should  apply  it  to  each  surface,  bring  them 
together,  wrap  them  tightly  with  a  dry  string,  then  wet  the 
string  with  warm  water  to  swell  it  and  make  it  still  tighter, 
and  set  it  away  till  morning.  Then  you  would  hardly  have 
been  able  to  find  where  the  wood  was  joined  together. 

NOVICE.  I  have  tried  to  use  glue,  but  could  never  make 
it  stick  any  to  speak  of. 

ANGLER.  Considerable  art,  or,  I  should  say,  a  little  knowl- 
edge, is  required  to  use  glue  successfully.  In  the  first  place, 
where  all  possible  strength  is  required,  as  in  fishing-rods, 
the  glue  used  should  be  perfectly  fresh.  By  that  I  mean 
glue  that  has  never  been  melted  before.  It  should  by  no 
means  be  too  thick,  since  then  it  rapidly  gelatinizes,  and  in 
this  condition  it  has  no  adhesive  power.  The  best  test  is 
to  try  a  drop  between  the  finger  and  thumb;  if  it  feels 
slightly  unctious,  it  is  thick  enough.  Then  warm  the  sur- 
faces to  be  united,  apply  the  glue,  and  tie  them  together  as 

1  Tf  the  means  or  the  skill  to  make  a  perfect  fit  are  wanting,  the  splice 
should  be  so  made  that  the  joint  is  there  enlarged ;  otherwise  it  may  be  "  soft " 
at  the  splice — i.e.,  inferior  to  the  neighboring  parts  of  the  rod  in  stiffness — 
when  it  will  almost  certainly  give  way  again.  Subsequently,  and  under  more 
favorable  circumstances,  the  splice  can  be  taken  apart,  properly  fitted,  and 
permanently  repaired  with  glue. 


REPAIRS 

described,  and  you  will  have  no  difficulty.  Fish-glue  is  to  be 
preferred,  particularly  that  known  as  " Russian  isinglass," 
since  it  has  more  strength  in  the  first  place,  and  that  strength 
is  not  so  apt  to  become  impaired  by  time;  but  it  must  be 
handled  promptly,  since  it  soon  jellies,  in  which  condition  it 
will  not  stick  at  all.  Some  advocate  adding  a  drop  or  two 
of  nitric  acid  to  the  melted  glue,  or  melting  the  glue  in 
vinegar,  either  of  which  will  destroy  this  gelatinizing  prop- 
erty, so  you  can  take  your  time  in  uniting  the  fragments; 
and  they  insist  that  this  does  not  impair  the  strength  of  the 
glue.  While  this  seems  to  be  true,  these  liquid  glues  have 
one  very  serious  defect  not  to  be  overlooked,  the  more  par- 
ticularly since  they  may  now  be  bought  at  almost  any 
hardware  shop,  and  their  always-ready  character  makes 
them  so  convenient  to  use.  They,  one  and  all,  as  far  as  I 
have  ever  seen,  are  prone  to  absorb  moisture  if  given  the 
opportunity,  and  so  loose  their  grip.  Good,  ordinary  glue, 
well  applied  in  the  ordinary  way,  will  resist  unimpaired 
many  times  an  exposure  fatal  to  the  liquid  glues.  They  are, 
therefore,  in  my  judgment,  unfit  for  rod  work.  Some 
prefer  to  melt  it  in  skimmed  milk,  since  glue  so  prepared 
is  insoluble  in  water  after  it  dries.  Some,  again,  soften  the 
glue  by  soaking  it  over  night  in  cold  water.  The  next  day 
it  will  resemble  a  stiff  jelly,  though  retaining  its  original  form. 
These  pieces  are  then  dried  with  a  cloth,  and  melted  in 
boiled  linseed-oil,  and  thus  another  waterproof  glue  can  be 
made.  This  last  is,  however,  a  tedious  drier.  But  I  have 
always  feared  to  try  these  when  anything  depended  on  the 
result,  and  so  cannot  speak  of  their  respective  merits  from 
my  own  knowledge.  One  thing,  however,  I  do  know,  that 
if  your  joints  fit  and  are  tightly  brought  together,  so  as  to 
squeeze  out  all  the  glue  possible,  it  will,  even  with  ordinary 
glue,  take  hours  of  soaking  in  water  and  the  subsequent 
application  of  considerable  and  continued  heat  before  they 
can  be  separated. 

But  this  repair  must  be  made  on  the  spur  of  the  moment, 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


so  gluing  is  out  of  the  question.  You  see  I  warm  the  splices 
and  my  cobbler's  wax  and  coat  both  the  former  with  the 
latter.  I  now  place  them  together  in  the  position  in  which 
they  are  to  remain,  squeeze  them  tightly  together  so  the 
layers  of  wax  between  will  coalesce,  and  hold  them  in  that 
position  a  moment  for  the  wax  to  stiffen  a  little.  I  now  wind 
this  string  around  them  for  about  half  their  length  to  hold 
them  in  position,  and  they  are  ready  to  wrap  with  silk. 
Having  waxed  my  silk  well  with  the  cobbler's  wax,  I  wind 
it  on,  as  you  see,  as  tightly  as  the  strength  of  the  silk  wrill 
well  bear,  being  careful  that  each  turn  shall  lie  close  beside 
its  predecessor.  I  have  wound  up  to  the  string,  which  may 
now  be  removed,  since  the  wrappings  already  on  will  steady 
the  splice;  and  now  I  have  wrapped  the  splice  its  whole 
length,  and  it  only  remains  to  fasten  the  winding,  and  we 
are  through.  Watch  me  closely.  You  will  notice  I  cut  the 
silk  so  I  have  about  a  foot  of  end.  I  hold  the  windings 
already  made  in  place  with  my  left  thumb,  pass  the  end 
of  the  silk  downward  between  me  and  the  rod,  under  it, 
upward  on  the  other  side,  and  then  over  the  rod.  Thus  I 
make  a  large  open  loop,  within  which  I  take  three  or  four 
turns  of  the  end  around  the  rod,  and  running  toward  the 
completed  winding  that  I  am  holding  with  my  left  thumb. 
To  these  two  points  I  wish  particularly  to  call  your  atten- 
tion, since  if  you  make  no  mistake  here  you  will  have  no 
difficulty  in  mastering  this  knot.  I  then  finish  thus,  and  cut 
off  the  end  as  close  as  I  can.  You  see  it  requires  close  inspec- 
tion to  discover  how  the  silk  is  fastened,  so  neat  is  the 
finish.  This  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  acquisitions  an 
angler  can  make,  for  without  this  knot  I  could  not  have 
securely  repaired  your  rod.  As  soon  as  you  conveniently 
can,  cover  the  winding  with  two  or  three  coats  of  shellac, 
or,  better  still,  some  oil  varnish,  if  you  can  wait  for  it  to  dry, 
and  your  rod  will,  if  you  meet  with  no  further  accident, 
last  for  years.  Now  put  it  together  and  try  it.  How  does 
it  feel? 


REPAIRS 

NOVICE.  It  seems  a  little  stiffer,  and  lighter  in  the  hand 
than  before. 

ANGLER.  Both  necessarily  follow  from  shortening  the 
rod,  which  of  course  cannot  be  avoided  in  making  a  splice. 
But  I  notice  a  ring  is  missing  from  your  rod.  Bring  it  to 
me  this  evening  at  the  farm-house  where  I  am  lodging 
and  I  will  replace  it. 

NOVICE.  I  am  a  thousand  times  obliged  to  you  for  your 
kindness. 

ANGLER.  Not  at  all.  Only  remember  never  to  go  fishing 
again  without  silk,  wax,  a  knife,  and  a  file;  for  with  these 
you  can  repair  on  the  spot  most  of  the  accidents  to  which 
an  angler  is  liable,  while  without  them  you  will  be  helplessly 
crippled.  Good-day,  and  good-luck! 

TIME,  evening;  same  characters. 

NOVICE.  Good-evening!  You  see  I  have  brought  my  rod 
as  you  suggested. 

ANGLER.  You  have  done  well.  What  luck  did  you  have 
after  we  parted  this  morning? 

NOVICE.  Oh,  not  so  bad.  But  it  is  not  essential  to  my 
enjoyment  of  stream  fishing  that  I  take  a  trout  every  five 
minutes.  The  cool,  fragrant  air,  the  music  of  the  running 
water,  and  the  beauties  of  the  trees  and  flowers  which  shade 
and  grace  the  stream — these,  together  with  the  constant 
endeavor  to  improve  my  cast,  and  the  sense  that  my  efforts 
were  not  in  vain,  made  the  day  one  constant  pleasure, 
though  I  caught  but  few  fish  and  those  not  large. 

ANGLER.  You  have  the  true  angler's  spirit,  and  this  makes 
it  a  double  pleasure  to  assist  and  instruct  you. 

NOVICE.  Before  we  enter  on  new  ground,  I  should  like 
to  ask  you  one  or  two  questions  about  mending  broken  rods. 
How  long  should  the  splice  be  by  which  the  fragments  are 
united?  For  it  seems  to  me  that  a  short  splice  can  hardly 
stand  the  strain  inseparable  from  use;  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  an  excessive  length  unnecessarily  shortens  the  rod. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ANGLER.  The  question  is  very  pertinent.  The  length  of 
the  splice  should  be  at  least  twelve  times  the  diameter  of 
the  joint  at  the  break,  perhaps  even  a  little  more  if  the  rod 
is  very  dense  in  the  grain.  It  is  well  in  such  case  to  roughen 
the  surfaces  you  propose  to  unite,  or  to  score  them  obliquely 
and  in  a  criss-cross  manner.  (Fig.  7) .  But  these  scores 
should  be  very  oblique  and  very  shallow  or  you  may  divide 


Fig.  7 

A,  joint;  B,  splice,  scored. 

and  so  lose  the  strength  of  some  of  the  fibres.  The  purpose 
is  to  give  a  better  hold  to  whatever  adhesive  substance  you 
use  to  unite  the  parts. 

NOVICE.  It  has  occurred  to  me  that  the  method  you 
showed  me  this  morning  is  not  applicable  to  a  break  close 
to  a  ferrule,  for  there  is  then  nothing  to  form  one  part  of 
the  splice  from.  What  course  should  then  be  followed? 

ANGLER.  This  is  either  one  of  the  most  difficult,  or  one 
of  the  simplest,  of  emergent  repairs,  according  to  the  con- 
struction of  the  rod.  If  the  rod  is  united  by  simple  ferrules 
without  dowels,  and  if  the  ferrules  are  merely  cemented 
in  place  instead  of  fastened  by  a  pin,  then  the  repair  is  a 
trifling  matter.  And  after  balancing  all  I  have  heard  or 
can  imagine  on  all  sides  of  the  question,  I  cannot  but  think 
that  both  the  dowel  and  the  fastening  pin  should  be  excluded 
from  fly-rods.  I  have  been  driven  to  this  conclusion  not 
merely  because  of  difficulty  of  repair,  but  by  other  considera- 
tions of  equal  or  even  greater  force,  into  the  discussion  of 
which  we  will  not  enter  now. 

When  the  rod  gives  way  at  the  ferrule,  the  break  is 
always  short  across.  If  you  have  no  dowels  to  consider, 
trim  the  broken  end  square  with  your  knife,  warm  the 
ferrule  and  push  out  the  broken  portion,  and  replace  the 
ferrule  on  the  joint,  using  some  of  your  gobbler's  wax  to 

'56 


REPAIRS 

:ement  it  in  place.  But  if  your  rod  has  dowelled  ferrules — 
by  which  I  mean  those  in  which  the  upper  ferrule  is  provided 
kith  a  tenon  to  enter  and  fit  a  hole  in  the  joint  below — then, 
|f  your  rod  is  a  fine  one,  you  are  indeed  in  trouble.  Let  us 

;ume  the  break  to  be  above  the  male,  or  entering,  ferrule, 
l/ou  have  now  the  accident  in  its  least  embarrassing  form, 
ror  if  you  have  means  at  hand  to  drive  out  the  fastening  pin, 
kou  can  burn  out  the  broken  piece,  and  proceed  as  before, 
construction  of  a  new  dowel  from  the  body  of  the  joint 
tself  should  never  be  attempted,  since,  aside  from  the 
lifficulty  of  making  it  perfectly  central  and  a  good  fit, 
t  shortens  the  rod  to  a  degree  not  to  be  thought  of,  except 
In  case  of  absolute  necessity.  The  maker  will,  on  your 
•eturn  home,  insert  a  new  piece,  and  the  loss  will  be  only 
[qual  to  the  length  of  your  ferrule. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  break  is  below  the  female,  or 
mtside,  ferrule,  the  accident  is  more  serious.  Assuming 
have  cleared  the  ferrule  of  the  broken  portion,  and  can 
replace  it  as  before,  how  are  you  to  bore  the  hole  to  receive 
tnd  fit  the  dowel?  This  clearly  requires  a  special  tool 
I  lot  readily  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  most  trout  streams, 
"he  only  practical  recourse  is,  then,  to  cut  off  the  dowel 
irom  the  male  ferrule,  replace  the  female  ferrule  as  before, 
md  use  your  rod  without  the  dowel,  until  you  can  put  it 
In  the  maker's  hands. 

If  the  dowel  seems  part  of  the  metal  of  the  male  ferrule, 
is  generally  the  case  in  fine  rods,  you  must  file  or  saw  it 
)ff  only  as  a  very  last  resort.  It  is  usually  only  united  to 
he  ferrule  by  soft  solder,  and  if  you  heat  it  well  you  can 
msolder  and  remove  it  without  injury. 

Some  rods,  however,  are  mounted  with  ferrules  the  bore 
|>f  which  is  smaller  at  the  mouth  than  within.  In  such  the 
jiowel  is  absolutely  indispensable,  since  it  alone  steadies  the 
of  the  entering  joint  and  prevents  it  from  shaking.  I 
cannot  but  think  this  a  vicious  construction,  if  for  no  other 
I'eason,  because  it  offers  not  the  slightest  advantage  over  the 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


cylindrical  ferrule,  while  a  break  of  the  kind  under  considera- 
tion at  once  disables  the  rod  beyond  immediate  repair. 

NOVICE.  One  other  question:  bamboo  is  so  dense  and 
flinty  that  I  should  think  it  difficult  successfully  to  mend 
such  a  rod  by  splicing.  Am  I  correct  in  this? 

ANGLER.  Partly  so.  Tips  may  be  repaired  without 
difficulty,  and  a  break  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  second 
joint  is  not  hopeless.  But  I  have  never  been  able  to  make 
a  splice  in  the  lower  half  of  such  a  rod,  though  I  have  tried 
repeatedly.  The  splices  must  then  be  made  extra  long, 
and  well  scored;  and  with  this  the  user  must  rest  content 
until  he  can  replace  the  broken  joint  by  a  new  one.  His 
rod  will  then  hang  together  and  can  be  fished  with,  but  he 
will  find  its  action  so  impaired  that  its  use  will  give  little 
pleasure.  Does  any  other  question  occur  to  you? 

NOVICE.  No,  I  think  of  nothing  more. 

ANGLER.  Then  let  us  replace  that  ring  on  your  rod.  But 
I  see  you  have  lost  the  end  ring  from  your  tip  as  wTell. 

NOVICE.  Oh,  never  mind  that;    I  have  another  one. 

ANGLER.  We  may  just  as  well  do  both,  and  then  at 
some  future  time  you  will  be  able  to  aid  or  instruct  some 
brother  angler  in  both  of  these  particulars. 

If  we  had  some  spare  rings,  or  even  some  small  copper 
or  brass  wire,  it  would  help  matters;  but  as  neither  of 
these  is  at  hand  we  must  resort  to  pins  for  our  material. 
You  see  I  insert  the  points  of  these  pins  in  a  stick,  and 
heat  them  red-hot  in  this  lamp,  for  a  pin  as  it  comes  from 
the  manufacturer  is  too  stiff  for  our  purpose.  Now  that 
the  points  are  cool,  I  cut  off  the  heads  and  insert  those  ends 
in  the  stick,  and  repeat  the  process.  Now  they  are  annealed, 
and  we  can  proceed.  I  take  a  small  round  stick — a  match 
will  do — and,  applying  it  to  the  middle  of  the  pin,  bend  the 
latter  around  it,  thus  forming  a  loop.  (Fig.  8.) 

I  now  insert  the  loop  in  a  crack  in  the  floor  or  in  a  cleft 
stick  to  serve  as  a  vise  (since  we  have  neither  the  latter 
nor  a  pair  of  pincers),  and  twist  the  ends  of  the  pin  around 

158 


REPAIRS 

till  they  are  at  a  right  angle  with  their  former  position. 
We  now  have,  in  effect,  a  straight  wire  provided  with  a  loop 
at  a  right  angle  in  its  middle.  I  then  file  the  two  ends,  top 
and  bottom,  tapering  them  gradually  away  from  the  loop 
to  a  sharp  edge  at  each  extremity.  I  now  wind  this  on  with 
waxed  silk  in  its  proper  place,  and  it  is  finished.  (Fig.  9.) 

NOVICE.  I  am  very  much  obliged;  but  had  I  not  been 
so  anxious  to  learn  this  I  should  not  have  permitted  you 
to  trouble  yourself  over  so  trifling  a  matter. 

ANGLER.  You  must  not  think  so.  A  rod  should  be  pro- 
vided with  plenty  of  rings,  since  they  equalize  and  distribute 
the  strain  over  the  whole  length  of  the  rod.  Thus,  while  its 
aggregate  may  be  great,  it  will  at  no  one  place  reach  the 
breaking-point.  And  while  I  would  not  recommend  you 


A 

6'  — 


Fig.  8  Fig.  9 

,A,  body  of  pin;  B,  loop  made  A,  body  of  pin,  showing  sharpened 

in  middle  of  pin;  c  and  d,  ends      ends;  B,  loop, 
of  pin. 

to  suspend  fishing  at  a  favorable  moment,  merely  because  a 
single  ring  became  detached,  still  you  should  replace  it 
before  the  next  day. 

Now  let  us  put  a  new  end  on  your  tip.  I  bend  the  second 
pin  around  the  match  as  before.  I  then  thin  the  ends  in 
the  same  manner,  omitting,  you  notice,  to  twist  the  loop. 
I  now  bring  the  ends  together,  thus,  in  the  form  of  a  tuning- 
fork,  give  a  slightly  wedge-shape  to  the  end  of  the  tip, 
insert  it  in  the  fork  of  the  tip  end,  and  wind  it  on  with  silk. 
It  will  not  be  amiss  to  give  the  loop  a  bend  toward  the  ring 
side  of  the  tip,  since  then  the  line  will  render  better.  (Fig. 
10.) 

NOVICE.  But  I  notice  that  in  this  case  you  did  not  make 
your  "invisible  knot"  in  the  way  you  showed  me.  This 
seems  much  simpler. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ANGLER.  The  principle  is  exactly  the  same.  In  the  case 
to  which  you  allude  it  was  tied  in  the  middle  of  a  joint, 
and  under  such  conditions  it  must  be  made  in  the  way 
shown  you.  But  here  there  is  no  long  piece  extending 
B 


Fig.  10 

beyond  where  the  knot  is  to  be,  and  we  can  take  advan- 
tage of  this  circumstance.  I  will  repeat  the  knot  for 
your  benefit.  Having  wound  as  far  as  we  wish,  I  make 
the  loop  C,  holding  the  windings  already  made  firmly 
with  my  left  thumb,  exactly  as  before.  Having  first  cut 
off  the  silk  so  as  to  leave  me  about  a  foot  of  end,  A,  I  place 
this  end  upon  the  windings,  and  hold  it  there;  I  then  pro- 
ceed to  wind  over  it,  A,  exactly  as  if  it  were  not  there,  and 
as  though  I  were  merely  extending  my  winding;  and  this 
to  the  extent  of  four  turns  or  so.  If  in  so  doing  the  silk  has 
fouled  the  ring  D,  I  clear  it;  and  you  see  I  have  the  end  A 
projecting  toward  the  left  and  fastened  by  some  turns  of 
silk  over  it,  and  a  loop,  C,  on  the  right.  (Fig.  n.)  Now 
when  I  pull  on  the  end  A  the  loop  C  diminishes  in  size,  until 


it  disappears  altogether,  and  the   fastening  is   complete. 

This  knot  is  the  one  with  which  the  heads  of  flies  are  finished. 

NOVICE.  You  seem  so  willing  to  give  information  that  I 

should  like  to  ask  you  a  few  more  questions.    This  evening 

1 60 


REPAIRS      

I  could  hardly  get  my  rod  apart;  the  ferrules  stuck  so 
tightly;  yet  they  went  together  easily  enough  in  the  morn- 
ing. Is  there  a  remedy  for  this? 

ANGLER.  Yes,  and  a  most  simple  one.  If  you  will  tallow 
or  oil  your  ferrules,  and  then  wipe  them  dry  before  you  joint 
your  rod,  you  will  never  be  troubled  that  way;  and  this 
should  be  repeated  every  third  or  fourth  day,  if  the  rod 
is  left  together  so  long.  But  if  you  have  neglected  this  pre- 
caution, and  the  ferrules  stick  fast,  do  not  call  a  friend  and 
go  at  the  joints  as  though  you  were  wringing  clothes;  but 
warm  the  obstinate  ferrule  over  a  lamp  chimney,  and  it  will 
easily  separate.  You  must  remember  that  the  object  is 
to  expand  the  outer  before  the  heat  reaches  the  inner  ferrule ; 
and  to  do  this  the  heat  must  be  applied  but  for  a  few  seconds, 
turning  the  ferrule  constantly  so  that  all  parts  may  receive 
their  due  proportion,  and  then  try  to  separate  it.  If  it 
refuses,  repeat  the  operation  until  it  consents. 

Heat,  properly  and  continuously  applied,  is  extremely 
efficacious  when  opposed  to  obstinacy  of  any  form — a 
principle  well  known  even  prior  to  the  Middle  Ages,  though 
its  highest  development  was  then  reached.  If,  however, 
the  angler  seizes  one  joint  and  his  friend  the  other,  a  sudden 
and  powerful  jerk  will  often  separate  ferrules  which  have 
obstinately  resisted  both  torsion  and  a  steady  pull. 

NOVICE.  Here  is  a  fly,  the  only  one  of  the  kind  I  have. 
The  trout  seemed  to  have  a  decided  preference  for  this 
to-day,  but  the  gut  is  so  frayed  that  I  fear  to  use  it  to- 
morrow. Can  it  be  repaired? 

ANGLER.  Yes;  it  will  not  look  very  well,  but  it  may  be 
used.  Let  me  see  the  fly.  Have  you  a  spare  piece  of  gut, 
or  if  not,  a  spare  leader,  from  which  we  can  cut  a  foot  or  so  ? 

NOVICE.  Here  is  a  leader. 

ANGLER.  First  we  will  soak  it  in  tepid  water  till  it  is  soft; 
then,  saving  the  looped  end  intact,  we  tie  a  hard  knot  in 
the  other  end  to  prevent  its  slipping;  then  we  wrap  it 
above  the  knot  with  well-waxed  silk  onto  the  upper  side 

161 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


of  the  hook,  just  below  the  body,  and  over  the  tail;  then 
part  the  wings  with  a  pin,  and  lay  the  gut  in  the  division 
and  upon  the  upper  side  of  the  body,  and  fasten  it  again 
with  silk  over  the  wing  fastening.  Now  we  catch  the  hook 
in  or  around  anything  that  will  hold,  take  a  good  pull  on 
the  gut  to  be  sure  it  will  stand,  and  it  is  complete. 

NOVICE.  Are  there  any  other  accidents  likely  to  happen 
to  the  angler  which  you  have  not  mentioned,  and  which 
admit  of  repair? 

ANGLER.  We  have  certainly  covered  almost  all — and  I 
can  think  of  no  others.  You  see  the  "invisible  knot"  lies 
at  the  foundation  of  all  these  repairs,  so  be  sure  to  perfect 
yourself  in  it. 

It  sometimes  occurs  that  an  angler  buys  a  new  rod,  or 
a  new  reel,  and  finds  the  one  will  not  fit  the  other;  but  he 
can  tie  the  reel  to  his  rod  with  a  string,  or,  better  still,  a 
leather  thong,  and  it  will  work  just  as  well. 

It  may  happen  that  he  frays  his  line  on  a  sharp  stone 
or  otherwise,  so  that  he  thinks  it  no  longer  safe.  In  this 
case,  if  unprovided  with  a  spare  line,  he  may  cut  out  the 
doubtful  part,  melt  his  wax,  or  at  least  make  it  quite  soft 
so  that  it  will  penetrate  well  into  the  line,  coat  about  an 
inch  of  each  end  well  with  the  wax,  lap  and  squeeze,  and 
sew  them  together  with  a  fine  needle,  and  then  wrap  tightly 
with  well-waxed  silk,  and  thus  remedy  the  defect.  If  it  is 
an  enamelled  waterproof  line,  the  ends  may  be  scarfed  a 
little  with  the  file  to  roughen  them,  and  give  the  wax  a 
better  hold.  This  splice,  if  neatly  made,  will  render  through 
the  rings  very  well,  but  a  test  strain  of  at  least  six  pounds 
should  be  applied  before  using  it ;  for  if  it  will  not  hold  it  is 
better  to  know  it,  and  repeat  the  operation. 

He  may  forget  or  lose  his  landing-net.  In  stream-fishing 
he  can  then  land  his  fish  on  the  bank,  if  it  is  sloping,  or  if  not, 
slide  his  hand  down  the  leader  and  grasp  the  fish  by  the  gills. 
In  either  case  he  should  play  his  fish  until  quite  exhausted. 
Then,  throwing  his  rod  behind  him  and  over  his  shoulder, 

162 


REPAIRS 

grasp  the  leader  with  his  left  hand,  carry  the  part  seized 
to  his  right  hand,  which  holds  the  rod,  there  take  it  between 
his  thumb  and  finger,  holding  it  so  he  can  at  once  let  go  if 
the  fish  shows  signs  of  activity,  and  repeat  this  until  the 
fish  is  quite  close.  But  during  this  delicate  operation  there 
must  not  be  the  slightest  approximation  to  a  jerk;  every- 
thing must  proceed  quietly  and  by  an  even,  steady  motion. 
He  can  then  slide  his  hand  down  the  leader  and  grasp  the 
trout,  in  which  he  will  be  much  aided  by  a  thread-glove 
with  the  fingers  cut  off;  or  he  can  lead  the  fish  toward  the 
bank,  and  by  a  sudden  but  steady  increase  of  force  throw 
him  out. 

Any  effort  to  lift  or  throw  the  trout  out  by  the  rod  will 
probably  be  followed  by  disaster.  Not  that  the  rod  will 
break,  but  the  weight  of  the  fish  in  air  so  exceeds  that  in 
water  that  the  impulse  given  will  carry  it  but  a  short  dis- 
tance on  the  shore ;  and  when  it  strikes  the  ground  it  unhooks 
itself  with  the  first  flop,  while  the  angler  performs  like  a 
cat  on  a  stove  in  the  vain  endeavor  to  kick  it  higher  up  on 
the  bank.  I  have  seen,  nay,  I  have  myself,  lost  many  good 
fish  in  this  way. 

If  he  is  to  fish  from  a  boat,  and  no  landing-net  can  .be 
borrowed,  let  him  make  a  gaff  out  of  a  piece  of  telegraph 
or  other  stiff  wire,  or  tie  three  or  four  hooks,  the  largest 
that  can  be  had,  on  a  stick,  and  use  that  for  the  same 
purpose. 

Occasionally  the  screws  of  a  reel  show  a  tendency  to 
work  loose,  caused  by  the  jar  of  the  click  and  indifferent 
fitting.  The  remedy  is  simple:  withdraw  the  screw,  and 
insert  a  waxed  thread  to  the  bottom  of  its  hole;  enter 
the  screw  beside  the  thread,  and  about  three-quarters  of 
its  length;  then  cut  off  the  projecting  end  close,  and  turn 
the  screw  down  to  its  head. 

Broken  rods,  when  the  break  is  in  the  upper  half,  may 
be  temporarily  repaired  much  more  speedily  than  by  the 
method  I  showed  you,  though  not  so  well.  All  that  is  neces- 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


sary  is  a  piece  of  twine  and  a  rubber  band  or  two — those 
about  half  an  inch  wide  are  best — and  as  long  as  possible. 
Cut  the  rubber  band  so  as  to  form  a  strap,  lap  one  part  of 
the  break  over  the  other  without  any  trimming,  wrap  the 
rubber  band  around  the  lap,  stretching  the  rubber  well 
when  so  doing,  and  tie  its  end  down  with  the  twine  so  that 
it  cannot  unwind.  The  lap  should  be  covered  with  at  least 
a  double  layer  of  well-stretched  rubber,  using  one  or  more 
bands  as  may  be  required. 

Breaks  in  the  upper  half  of  a  tip  may  be  very  nicely 
repaired  with  a  quill.  The  quill  is  to  be  soaked  in  water, 
preferably  warm,  until  quite  soft.  It  is  then  to  be  split 
lengthwise  on  one  side,  flattened  out,  and  one  edge  trimmed 
until  it  just  fits  when  wrapped  over  the  break.  When  so 
fitted  the  quill  is  to  be  wrapped  over  the  break  and  tightly 
wound  with  silk  its  whole  length.  Then  it  is  allowed  to 
dry  thoroughly  so  as  to  regain  its  pristine  stiffness,  and 
well  varnished. 

There,  I  think  I  have  covered  all  the  repairable  contin- 
gencies. 


Chapter  XII 

WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 

T  ET  us  consider  a  few  details  connected  with  a  long  camp- 
le ing  trip  when  one  cuts  loose  from  the  base  of  supplies. 
In  the  preceding  parts  of  this  book  we  advanced  from  back- 
yard camping  to  camping  away  from  home,  but  camping, 
nevertheless,  of  a  domestic  character,  since  it  implies  a  fixed 
camp  usually  within  reach  of  such  luxuries  as  fresh  milk  and 
vegetables.  At  the  end  of  Chapter  IV  a  list  of  supplies  was 
given  which  indicates  the  essentials  for  wilderness  camping. 

A  Few  Outfitting  Points 

While  supplies  can  be  taken  from  reliable  grocery  stores 
near  home,  there  are  almost  always  dealers  near  the  ap- 
proaches to  the  camping-grounds  who  specialize  in  outfitting. 
For  example,  in  the  Moosehead  Lake  region  of  Maine  there 
are  storekeepers  at  Greenville  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  and  at 
Kineo.  They  are  accustomed  to  outfit  logging-camps  as 
well  as  sportsmen.  Tents  and  blankets  can  be  rented,  and 
the  guides,  in  addition  to  canoes,  have  cooking  utensils.  The 
prices  at  such  places  are,  of  course,  higher  than  at  city  stores 
so  far  as  the  staples  are  concerned.  Outfits  can  be  obtained 

165 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


in  Portland  and  Bangor  for  Maine  trips  or  in  Halifax  if 
the  camper  has  Nova  Scotia  in  mind,  or  at  St.  John  if  it 
is  a  question  of  New  Brunswick,  or  at  Quebec  or  Rober- 
val  for  ouananiche  fishing,  or  at  St.  John's,  Newfound- 
land, for  a  trip  on  that  island,  or  at  Montreal,  Toronto, 
Winnipeg,  or  usually  wherever  the  nearest  important  point 
of  departure  may  be.  In  other  words,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  burden  one's  self  with  staples  carried  from  home.  In 
Canada,  the  stores  of. the  Hudson  Bay  Company  can  be 
depended  upon  for  reliable  supplies.  But  bear  in  mind  that 
while  it  is  desirable  to  have  something  acid,  like  pickles  and 
a  few  lemons,  and  also  something  sweet,  in  addition  to  the 
pork,  bacon,  flour,  etc.,  which  are  the  foundation,  all  these 
things  must  be  transported  in  a  canoe,  and  often  by  hand, 
and  superfluities  are  to  be  avoided. 

Personal  Belongings 

Bear  in  mind,  also,  that  everything  must  be  packed, 
usually  in  water-proof  canvas  bags  or  tins,  so  that  the  sup- 
plies will  keep  dry  and  be  carried  readily.  Wet  blankets 
and  wet  flour  have  been  the  bane  of  many  a  camping  trip. 
As  to  one's  own  outfit,  whatever  the  choice  of  clothing  may 
be — Dux-bax,  khaki,  or  wool,  oil-skin  suit  or  rubber  coat, 
moccasins  with  stout  insoles,  hunting-boots,  or  strong  walk- 
ing-shoes— it  is  essential  that  clothing,  underwear,  and  toilet 
articles  should  be  kept  dry.  A  wilderness  camp  is  no  place 
for  dress-suit  cases.  In  the  water-proofed  ditty-bag  or 
reinforced  camping-bag  described  on  page  40  can  be  placed 
small  bags  of  denim  or  any  strong  material,  one  to  contain 

166 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 

toilet  articles  and  pocket-mirror,  another  underwear,  etc.,  so 
that  these  more  personal  articles  may  be  kept  by  themselves. 
There  should  also  be  a  large  water-proof  bag  for  blankets. 
Water- proof  cans  or  boxes  for  matches,  a  guard  on  hatchet 
or  axe,  a  well-protected  and  reliable  compass  are  among  the 
things  which  are  so  obvious  that  they  are  frequently  over- 
looked. In  addition  to  the  usual  strong  pocket-knife,  a 
good  sheath-knife  will  often  prove  useful.  Mr.  Kephart's 
"Check  List"  in  his  Book  of  Camping  and  Woodcraft  is 
worth  consulting,  although  written  for  men  and  largely  with 
a  view  to  hunting  trips. 

For  a  wilderness  trip  it  is  well  to  take  three  rods — are- 
liable  split  bamboo  fly-rod,  an  ash  and  lancewood  or  well- 
tested  greenheart  or  bethabara  rod  with  interchangeable 
butts  and  tips  which  can  be  used  either  for  bait  or  fly  fishing, 
and  a  stout  wooden  trolling-rod,  if  it  is  likely  to  be  used. 
This  implies  a  fifty- yard  braided-silk  water-proofed  line  for 
fly-fishing,  and  reel,  and  a  trolling-line  of  double  the  length, 
and  a  multiplying  reel.  Flies  and  trolling  gear  are  to  be 
selected  according  to  the  best  advice  to  be  had  regarding  the 
particular  trip  to  be  undertaken. 

The  Vexed  Question  of  Guides 

This  advice  should  include  everything  attainable  in  re- 
gard to  guides.  It  must  be  confessed  that  the  old-fashioned, 
simple,  thorough-going  woodsman,  with  his  heart  in  his  out- 
door life,  too  self-respecting  to  be  looking  for  tips  and  * '  soft 
snaps,"  is  not  common  to-day.  The  advent  of  wealthy 
sportsmen  everywhere  has  wrought  many  changes — often  not 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


for  the  better.  With  the  increasing  number  of  public  sports- 
men's camps,  of  public  conveyances  on  carries  or  portage 
paths,  of  logging  steamers  on  lakes  which  will  transport 
canoes,  and  other  aids  to  ease,  the  camper  is  obliged  to  con- 
sider a  rapidly  mounting  bill  for  expenses  in  addition  to  three 
dollars  a  day  each  for  the  guides  and  the  cost  of  the  outfit. 
Many  campers  are  emphatically ' '  tenderfeet . ' '  Of  these  many 
guides  will  take  full  advantage.  This  is  not  an  agreeable 
subject,  but  it  happens  too  often  that  the  camper  from  the 
city  is  regarded  as  simply  the  summer  harvest  for  the 
lumberman,  farmer,  or  whoever  it  may  be  who  seeks  to 
glean  this  harvest  in  the  capacity  of  guide.  In  Maine  and 
in  the  Adirondacks  and  some  other  places  there  are  asso- 
ciations of  licensed  guides,  and  their  secretaries  may  be  con- 
sulted. But  the  best  plan  in  choosing  guides,  as  in  choosing 
the  route  for  a  camping  trip,  is  to  obtain  personal  references 
and  verify  them  carefully.  Get  the  experience  of  those  who 
have  tried  the  men.  And  this  counsel  applies  emphatically 
to  camping  trips  in  the  West,  especially  in  the  case  of  more 
elaborate  journeys  with  horses  and  pack-trains. 

Secondly,  after  verifying  the  quality  of  a  guide,  have  a 
clear  understanding  at  the  outset  as  to  your  wishes  and  plans, 
the  rate  of  travel,  the  time,  the  chances  for  sport,  questions 
of  expense  and  extras,  and,  finally,  as  to  the  disposition  of 
supplies  at  the  end  of  the  trip.  It  is  all  very  well  to  present 
unused  supplies  to  a  guide  if  one  wishes.  It  is  quite  another 
matter  for  a  guide  to  disappear  silently  with  a  quantity  of 
supplies,  many  unopened,  as  happened  to  the  writer  at  the 
end  of  a  recent  trip  in  the  Moosehead  Lake  region.  When 
guides  make  their  headquarters  at  large  hotels  or  sporting 

168 


WILDERNESS   GAMPS   AND   FISHING 

camps,  the  proprietors  would  do  well  to  exercise  a  closer 
supervision  than  they  are  usually  inclined  to  do.  But  it 
may  be  said  again  that  the  lavishness  and  laziness  of  many 
of  the  "city  folk"  who  go  through  the  motions  of  camping 
are  responsible  for  much  of  the  demoralization  that  exists. 
There  is  a  club  of  sportsmen  in  New  York  who  are  en- 
deavoring to  make  a  card-index  list  of  guides  and  their 
characters,  but  this  is  naturally  for  the  use  of  members. 
An  adequate  information  bureau  open  to  the  public  would 
be  of  the  utmost  value.  Failing  this,  make  your  inquiries 
for  yourself,  thoroughly  and  in  ample  time.  Honesty,  so- 
briety, knowledge  of  the  country,  of  fishing  grounds,  and  of 
woodcraft,  culinary  ability,  energy,  good-nature,  and  pa- 
tience are  among  the  points  to  be  taken  into  account. 

Insect  Pests 

"Nessmuk's"  favorite  prescription  for  keeping  off  black 
flies  and  mosquitoes  is  as  follows:  "Three  ounces  pine  tar, 
two  ounces  castor-oil,  one  ounce  pennyroyal.  Simmer  all 
together  over  a  slow  fire  and  bottle  for  use.  You  will  hardly 
need  more  than  a  two-ounce  vialful  in  a  season.  Rub  it 
in  thoroughly  and  liberally  at  first,  and,  after  you  have  es- 
tablished a  good  glaze,  a  little  replenishing  from  day  to  day 
will  be  sufficient."  This  is  from  his  well-known  book  Wood- 
craft. Another  receipt  substitutes  vaseline  for  the  castor-oil. 

Among  other  safeguards  against  insects  are  the  oils  of 
citronella,  pennyroyal,  cloves,  verbena,  lavender,  and  lemon 
grass. 

In  his  comprehensive  Book  of  Camping  and  Woodcraft,  Mr. 

169 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Horace  Kephart  sums  up  his  experience  in  favor  of  tar 
"dopes"  in  comparatively  cool  climates,  although  he  finds 
them  less  efficacious  in  hot  countries.  His  ultimate  sum- 
ming-up is  that  "the  most  satisfactory  all-around  'dope' 
that  I  have  found  to  discourage  attacks  by  mosquitoes, 
flies,  midges,  fleas,  and  ticks  is  oil  of  citronella." 

There  are  many  blackTfly  ointments  and  other  remedies 
which  are  prepared  and  sold  at  drug  stores  and  sporting- 
goods  stores,  and  some  of  them  are  reasonably  efficacious. 
But  either  "  Nessmuk's  "  tar -oil  preparation  or  the  oil  of 
citronella  will  serve  any  ordinary  purpose. 

Warnings   for   Campers 

The  camper  in  Maine  will  probably  be  visited  by  a  fire- 
warden who  will  take  his  name.  He  will  also  see  printed 
warnings  posted  conspicuously  along  the  rivers. 

The  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission  of  New  York 
posts  the  following  notice : 

FOREST  FIRES 

RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  TO  PREVENT 

Fires  for  clearing  land  near  a  forest  must  not  be  started  until 
the  trees  are  in  full  leaf.  After  such  fires  are  lighted,  competent 
persons  must  remain  to  guard  them  until  the  fire  is  completely 
extinguished;  and  the  person  starting  such  fires  will  be  held  re- 
sponsible for  all  damages,  notwithstanding  notice  may  have  been 
given  to  the  fire-warden. 

Fires  will  be  permitted  for  the  purpose  of  cooking,  warmth, 
and  insect  smudges;  but  before  such  fires  are  kindled  sufficient 
space  around  the  spot  where  the  fire  is  to  be  lighted  must  be 
cleared  from  all  combustible  material ;  and,  before  the  place  is 
abandoned,  fires  so  lighted  must  be  thoroughly  quenched. 

170 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 

All  fires,  other  than  those  hereinbefore  mentioned,  are  ab- 
solutely prohibited. 

Hunters  and  smokers  are  cautioned  against  allowing  fires  to 
originate  from  the  use  of  firearms,  cigars,  and  pipes.  Especial 
care  should  be  taken  that  lighted  matches  are  extinguished  before 
throwing  them  down.  All  persons  are  warned  that  they  will  be 
held  responsible  for  any  damage  or  injury  to  the  forest  which  may 
result  from  their  carelessness  or  neglect. 

Girding  and  peeling  bark  from  standing  trees  is  prohibited. 
Fallen  timber  only  may  be  used  for  firewood. 

Foresters,  fire  -  patrolmen,  game  protectors,  and  all  citizens 
are  requested  to  report  to  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission 
immediately  all  cases  which  may  come  to  their  knowledge  of  dam- 
age or  injury  to  forest  trees  arising  from  a  violation  of  these  rules. 

By  order  of  the  Forest,   Fish,   and  Game  Commission. 

Another  notice  is  issued  by  the  Commission  in  regard  to 
camping  on  State  land. 

INFORMATION   FOR   CAMPERS 

Any  citizen  may  camp  temporarily  on  the  State  land  in  the 
Adirondacks,  the  Catskills,  Lake  George,  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  No  written  permit  is  required,  nor  can  one  be  granted 
by  anybody.  The  constitution  of  the  State  of  New  York  pro- 
vides that  the  land  in  the  Forest  Preserve  can  neither  be  leased, 
sold,  nor  exchanged,  but  must  be  kept  as  wild  land  for  the  en- 
joyment of  the  people.  Tents  are  the  only  structures  permitted 
in  the  woods,  but  board  floors  may  be  used.  No  person  is  en- 
titled to  call  any  particular  site  his  own  from  year  to  year. 
Portable  houses  are  prohibited.  So  is  the  erection  of  any  per- 
manent shelter,  such  as  a  bark  house,  lean-to,  or  log  camp. 
Peeling  bark  is  absolutely  prohibited.  [The  balance  of  the  notice 
refers  to  fires.] 

Some  Familiar   Fish 

Here  are  a  few  general  notes  upon  familiar  game'  fish 
which  are  due  to  Mr.  Burt,1  with  the  exception  of  the  last 
note  on  the  ouananiche. 

1  Camp  Fires  in  the  Wilderness,  by  C.  W.  Burt,  Forest  and  Stream  Pub- 
lishing Company. 

171 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


The  Brook  Trout1 

The  brook  trout  is  beyond  question  the  handsomest  and 
most  delicate  fish  to  be  caught  in  Maine.  It  is  found  chiefly 
in  the  cleanest  and  purest  cold  water  of  the  mountain 
streams,  and  subsists  almost  entirely  on  live  food.  As  the 
spawning  season  approaches,  the  trout  ascend  the  small 
streams,  seeking  shallow  spots  with  clean  gravel  bottoms, 
over  which  a  good  current  flows.  •  Here  the  female  sweeps 
away  the  sand  with  her  tail,  and,  pushing  aside  the  gravel 
with  her  nose,  forms  a  shallow  nest.  In  this  the  eggs  are 
deposited,  and  when  fertilized  upon  by  the  male  are  covered 
with  loose  gravel  and  left  until  hatched. 

I  have  found  the  best  trout  flies  for  Maine  the  Montreal, 
which  has  a  dark-crimson  body  with  gold  tinsel;  and  the 
Red  Ibis,  which  has  a  scarlet  silk-ribbed  body  and  ibis  wings. 
The  Brown  Hackle  is  also  much  used.2 

In  shallow  streams  and  rivers,  trout  of  any  of  the  varieties 
rarely  exceed  two  or  three  pounds  in  weight.  In  deep- 
water  lakes,  such  as  the  Rangeleys  of  Maine  and  the  lakes 
of  the  Canadian  wilderness,  the  lake  trout  has  been  taken  of 
all  weights  up  to  and  over  ten  pounds. 

Lake  Trout 

The  lake  trout  is  a  Northern  fish.  The  inland  lakes  of 
Maine,  New  Hampshire,  New  York,  eastern  Canada,  and  the 
Great  Lakes  are  the  waters  it  inhabits.  They  grow  very 
large,  weighing  sometimes  fifteen  or  twenty  pounds,  or  even 
more.  It  differs  from  other  trout  in  having  its  tail  decidedly 
forked  instead  of  square.  Its  color  is  a  dark  gray,  and  the 

1  This,  the  Salvelinus  fontinalis,  is  really  a  char.     The  brown  trout  and 
the  rainbow  trout  of  the  West  are  now  not  unfamiliar  in  Eastern  streams. 

2  The  Parmachenee  Belle  and  Professor  are  among  those  which  should 
be  added. 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 

entire  body  and  fins  are  covered  with  pale  white  or  grayish 
spots.  The  lake  trout  is  a  deep-water  fish  and  is  taken  only 
at  some  distance  below  the  surface.  It  is  omnivorous,  eat- 
ing everything,  and  cases  are  known  where  knives  have  been 
found  in  its  stomach.  Much  skill  and  patience  are  required 
to  catch  the  lake  trout.  Its  flesh  is  either  a  light  pink  or 
yellow  shade,  and  it  is  usually  boiled. 


Black  Bass 

There  are  two  kinds  of  black  bass,  the  small  and  the 
arge  mouth.  Both  are  able  to  stand  great  extremes  of  tem- 
perature, and  seem  to  thrive  under  varied  conditions.  The 
natural  food  of  the  black  bass  varies  greatly  and  depends 
on  the  temperature  of  the  water.  They  are  very  voracious, 
and  devour  all  other  fishes  and  even  their  own  kind.  Their 
natural  food  comprises  crustaceans,  minnows,  frogs,  worms, 
dobsons,  tadpoles,  crickets,  and  flies. 

At  times  bass  absolutely  refuse  to  take  any  bait  whatever, 
while  at  other  times  they  bite  greedily  at  almost  anything. 
Small  snakes,  rats,  and  vegetables  have  been  found  in  their 
stomachs. 

With  the  exception  of  the  ouananiche,  the  black  bass  is  the 
gamest  and  hardest  fighter  of  all  fresh- water  fish.  No  mat- 
ter by  what  method  it  is  caught,  it  makes  a  very  hard 
struggle  for  life.  The  small-mouth  bass  can  be  compared 
to  a  bull-dog,  as  it  will  fight  to  the  last  without  seeming  to 
tire  out.  The  large-mouth  bass,  on  the  other  hand,  fights 
hard  for  a  short  time  with  much  strength,  but  is  then  taken 
to  net  with  only  a  few  additional  rushes. 

As  cold  weather  approaches  the  bass  seek  deeper  water, 
but  always  in  bays  that  contain  weeds  and  soft  mud.  They 
usually  spawn  in  shallow  water  not  far  from  the  shores,  and 
the  small-mouth  invariably  spawns  on  stony  or  gravel  bot- 
tom. In  point  of  weight  the  two  varieties  average  about 
the  same  in  Northern  waters.  The  largest  small-mouth  bass 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


of  which  there  is  any  record  weighed  between  ten  and  eleven 
pounds. 

Another  member  of  the  bass  family  is  the  white  bass. 
This  species  is  found  in  the  Great  Lakes.  Their  color  is 
silvery  white,  and  they  are  peculiarly  striped,  five  or  six  dark 
bands  running  lengthwise  on  the  back  and  sides.  Their 
average  weight  is  from  one  to  four  pounds,  but  I  have  caught 
them  in  the  waters  of  the  Great  Georgian  Bay  weighing  six. 
During  the  winter  season  they  become  dormant  and  seek 
the  deepest  water  possible.  Unless  it  is  very  deep,  they  bur- 
row into  the  mud  and  remain  there  during  the  winter,  and 
in  such  circumstances  they  seem  to  be  able  to  go  without 
food  for  several  months.  Even  when  placed  in  aquariums, 
they  remain  motionless  during  the  cold  .season  and  refuse 
food. 

Muskalltmge 

The  muskallunge  —  a  name  with  many  spellings—  is  very 
abundant  in  Canadian  waters  and  the  Great  Lakes.  The 
resemblance  of  the  muskallunge,  pike,  and  pickerel  is  very 
close  in  general  appearance  and  contour,  but  in  color,  mark- 
ings, size,  and  weight  there  is  much  difference.  Some  people 
call  them  all  pickerel,  but  one  has  only  to  keep  in  mind  a 
few  points  to  distinguish  them  at  sight. 

In  size  and  fighting  qualities  the  muskallunge  is  the  great- 
est of  the  three.  The  name  is  derived  from  that  given  it  by 
the  Indians  of  Canada  —  "maskinonge."  A  muskallunge  of 
good  size  on  the  end  of  a  line  presents  a  hard  problem.  My 
friend  captured  one  on  a  large  trolling  spoon,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  run  the  launch  up  to  shore  in  order  that  the 
fish  might  be  landed  on  the  beach.  It  weighed  thirty-five 
pounds.  Sometimes  they  reach  seventy  or  eighty  pounds. 
They  are  usually  found  in  water  from  six  to  fifteen  feet  in 
depth,  and  especially  where  the  bottom  is  covered  with  long 
weeds.  In  these  the  fish  lies  hidden,  darting  out  to  capture 
the  large  or  small  fish  which  form  its  food.'  It  might  well 


T74 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 

be  called  a  fresh-water  shark,  as  its  mouth  is  very  large  and 
armed  with  formidable  sharp  teeth,  and  the  jaws  are  re- 
markably strong.  The  simplest  and  quickest  way  to  dis- 
tinguish between  the  fish  is  by  the  scales  on  the  head,  which 
in  the  muskallunge  are  found  only  on  a  very  narrow  strip  on 
the  top  of  the  cheek  and  gill-covers.  With  the  pike  the 
entire  cheek  and  the  upper  half  only  of  the  gill-covers  have 
scales.  On  the  pickerel  the  whole  of  both  the  cheek  and  gill- 
covers  is  entirely  covered.  The  true  pickerel  rarely  exceed 
five  or  six  pounds  in  weight.  It  is  to  be  assumed,  then,  that 
any  pickerel  over  five  pounds  is  a  pike.  Pike  weighing  from 
forty  to  fifty  pounds  have  been  taken  in  Canada,  but  the 
average  runs  about  seven  pounds,  with  occasional  cases 
of  twenty  to  twenty-five  pounds.  The  pike  is  differently 
marked  from  the  pickerel.  It  has  a  greenish-yellow  back 
and  sides,  with  numerous  round  yellow  spots  dotted  over 
the  entire  body.  The  spots  on  a  pickerel  are  oblong  and  run 
lengthwise  along  the  sides,  never  vertically.  The  true  pike 
is  found  not  only  in  American  waters,  but  generally  through- 
out Europe.  It  is  known  in  England  by  the  same  name 
as  with  us,  in  Germany  as  the  hecht,  in  Sweden  as  the  gadda, 
in  Italy  as  the  luccio,  and  in  France  as  the  brocket.  The 
French  name  is  also  applied  in  Canada,  especially  in  the 
Province  of  Quebec  and  at  Georgian  Bay.  In  European 
countries  the  muskallunge  and  pickerel 1  are  never  found, 
both  being  American.  While  here  the  pike  is  considered  a 
good  fish  to  eat,  in  Europe  it  is  especially  prized. 

Yellow  Perch 

The  yellow  perch,  sometimes  known  as  the  striped  perch, 
is  one  of  the  best-known  fresh-water  fish  in  this  country, 
being  found  in  all  the  States  east  of  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains. They  also  inhabit  the  Great  Lakes.  Perch  are  most 

1  The  familiar  pickerel  of  New  England  is  a  constant  source  of  sport, 
either  through  trolling  with  a  spoon  or  "skittering"  with  a  long,  stiff  rod 
and  a  frog's  leg  or  even  a  piece  of  pork. 

12  175 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


strikingly  marked.  The  body  color  is  a  bright  yellow,  with 
the  back  a  decidedly  greenish-bronze,  and  a  yellowish- white 
belly.  Six  or  eight  black-colored  bars,  fully  half  an  inch 
wide,  extend  from  the  back  midway  down  the  sides.  The 
lower  fins  are  bright  red  or  orange,  very  similar  to  those  of 
the  brook  trout,  while  the  dorsal  fin  and  tail  are  green.  The 
back  from  the  head  to  the  dorsal  fin  is  arched  or  humped. 
The  perch  is  a  small  fish,  and  those  taken  are  usually  about 
eight  to  ten  inches  long,  and  average  about  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  in  weight.  When  skinned,  perch  make  a  most  ex- 
cellent fish  for  eating.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  they 
usually  subsist  on  live  food.  They  take  the  hook  readily, 
and  are  easily  caught. 

The  yellow  perch  is  in  no  way  related  to  the  white  perch, 
which  is  properly  a  salt-water  fish,  though  often  found  in 
brackish  waters.  They  are  caught  only  in  rivers  that  flow 
into  the  sea.  They  lurk  about  clay  or  muddy  bottoms  early 
in  the  season,  but  a  little  later  are  found  near  weeds  or  rocks 
and  old  stone  and  wooden  piers.  While  not  a  large  fish,  their 
quality  is  good.  In  shape  this  perch  is  very  similar  to  the 
black  bass;  its  color  is  a  silvery  white,  without  any  note- 
worthy markings.  It  is  shorter  and  wider  than  the  yellow 
perch,  weighing  practically  the  same — about  three-quarters 
of  a  pound.  Where  it  is  found  no  similar  fish  will  be  taken. 
A  most  noted  river  for  white  perch  is  the  Potomac,  in  which 
immense  numbers  are  caught. 

The  Burbot 

Before  concluding  this  chapter  it  is  well  to  give  a  little 
attention  to  the  burbot,  or  fresh-water  cod,  which  is  found 
in  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  Northern  States  and  as  far 
north  as  the  Arctic  Circle.  They  are  often  called  "cusk," 
and  in  New  England  are  known  as  the  "eel  pout,"  in  New 
York  as  the  "ling."  They  are  a  most  voracious  bottom  fish, 
feeding  principally  on  small  fish  and  often  on  any  dead  fish 
or  animal  matter. 

176 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING    . 

In  appearance  they  are  like  the  bullhead  and  eel.  There 
is  not  much  about  them  to  attract  an  angler  except  their 
fighting  qualities.  They  almost  always  bite  at  night,  gener- 
ally after  dark.  They  are  most  frequently  taken  during  the 
night  on  set  lines  placed  quite  deep.  Occasionally  they  are 
caught  when  angling  for  other  fish  with  minnows  for  bait. 
When  they  take  the  hook  a  great  fight  is  on.  They  twist 
and  squirm,  running  here  and  there,  and  will  easily  jump  out 
of  a  boat  if  not  killed  at  once.  In  the  winter  they  are  taken 
through  the  ice,  and  it  is  great  sport  trying  to  get  them 
through  the  small  fishing-hole.  They  make  the  best  eating 
when  dried  and  salted,  as  do  the  salt-water  cod.  In  weight 
they  range  from  two  to  four  pounds,  but  sometimes  reach 
forty  pounds. 

Another  game  fish  not  described  by  Mr.  Burt  is  the  ' '  little 
salmon"  of  the  North. 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

It  has  been  said  that  the  gamest  fish  on  this  continent 
is  the  ouananiche.  The  name  means  "little  salmon."  The 
fish  is  a  specially  developed  land-locked  salmon  which  was 
first  identified  at  the  head- waters  of  the  Saguenay  in  Quebec. 
It  is  really  the  Salmo  Sebago,  which  bears  the  name  of 
the  Maine  lake  where  it  was  discovered  a  number  of  years 
ago.  Since  the  first  identification  of  the  Salmo  Sebago 
and  recognition  of  its  game  qualities,  it  has  become  a 
favorite  with  sportsmen,  and  many  lakes  in  the  East  have 
been  stocked  with  the  land-locked  salmon.  Early  in  the 
season  the  fish  will  take  the  fly.  Later,  it  is  usually  a  ques- 
tion of  a  minnow  or  trolling. 

In  the  Lake  St.  John  region  of  Canada  the  lake  itself  seems 
to  occupy  the  relation  of  the  sea  to  the  Salmo  solar,  or  sea- 
going salmon.  Fish  come  down  from  the  great  rivers  which 
empty  into  the  lake,  and  are  in  the  lake  in  the  early  spring. 
Then  they  ascend  the  rivers.  The  most  familiar  fishing- 

177 


By  courtesy  of  the  "Field  and  Stream"  Magazine 

THE    LAST    LEAP 


A    OUANANICHE    BREAKING    WATER 


WILDERNESS   CAMPS   AND   FISHING 


ground  is  immediately  below  the  main  chute  of  the  Grande 
Discharge.  Many  good  fish  have  been  taken  there,  but  the 
place  is  so  readily  accessible  from  the  Island  House  that 
there  are  usually  too  many  fishermen  to  admit  of  any  large 
degree  of  success. 

At  the  Hotel  Roberval,  at  Lake  St.  John,  arrangements 
are  made  for  camping  trips.  The  canoemen  are  Indians 
—half-breeds  usually — who  live  at  the  Hudson  Bay  post  a 
few  miles  away.  One  of  the  short  trips  is  to  the  fifth  falls 
of  the  Misstassini,  which  is  a  question  of  three  or  four  days. 
Another  is  the  Ashuamouchouan  trip.  The  latter  trip  in- 
cludes a  journey  up  the  river  (the  name  of  which  signifies 
''where  they  watch  the  moose"),  and  then  across  several 
small  lakes,  including  Lac  a  Brochette,  which  is  filled  with 
pike,  and  then  across  a  larger  lake,  Lac  a  Jim,  where  ouan- 
aniche  can  be  caught  at  certain  seasons,  and  then  down  the 
rapids  of  the  Wassiemski  to  the  tenth  falls  of  the  Misstas- 
sini, returning  down  the  river.  Another  long  camping  trip 
is  up  the  Perebonca. 

This  fishing  is  particularly  interesting,  not  only  on  account 
of  the  strength  and  endurance  of  the  fish,  but  from  its 
peculiarities.  These  rivers  are  very  large.  As  the  Indians 
say,  "The  water  is  strong."  It  really  seems  to  have  a  higher 
specific  gravity  than  ordinary  river  water.  These  rivers  are 
full  of  rapids  and  sometimes  large  falls.  As  the  water 
pours  down  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  and  rapids  great  cakes 
of  foam  form,  often  a  foot  or  more  thick.  In  these  white, 
viscid  masses  flies  are  caught,  and  the  fish  come  up  from  be- 
low to  feed  on  them.  The  fisherman,  using  most  frequently 
a  Jack  Scott  or  Silver  Doctor  fly,  casts  into  these  cakes  of 
foam.  The  fly  gradually  sinks  down  and  is  moved  under- 
neath the  white  surface.  When  the  fish  strikes  it  is  almost 
like  a  quick,  hard  blow,  and  usually  the  next  instant  there 
is  a  flash  like  silver  in  the  air,  four  or  five  feet  above  the  sur- 
face. This  is  the  beginning  of  a  severe  struggle,  charac- 
terized by  an  amount  of  agility  on  the  part  of  the  fish  which 

179 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


is  unequalled.  Half  of  the  time  the  fish  seems  to  be  in  the 
air,  and  for  the  rest  there  is  usually  a  succession  of  quick, 
fierce  runs.  Pound  for  pound,  there  is  probably  no  fish  on 
the  continent  which  has  the  endurance  and  strength  of  the 
ouananiche.  It  is  probable  that  the  average  size  will  not 
be  more  than  two  or  three  pounds,  although  they  have  been 
taken  of  a  weight  of  from  eight  to  ten  pounds.  There  are 
times  when  they  refuse  the  fly,  and  then  phantom  minnows 
or  spoons  are  used,  though  this  is  less  sportsmanlike. 

Since  the  first  vogue  of  the  ouananiche  began,  the  fish  has 
been  identified  in  many  of  the  rivers  farther  to  the  east  along 
the  Labrador  Plateau,  but  Labrador  fishing,  whether  for 
ouananiche  or  salmon,  is,  of  course,  a  quite  elaborate  matter. 

It  should  be  added  that  ouananiche-fishing,  as  is  usually 
the  case  in  pursuit  of  the  salmon  family,  is  uncertain. 
Furthermore,  it  is  an  expensive  sport. 


Part  IV 
ORGANIZED    CAMPS 

BY 

EUGENE    L.  SWAN,  M.D. 


Chapter  XIII 

THE   GROWTH   OF   ORGANIZED   CAMPS 

IT  was  perhaps  in  the  early  eighties  that  a  general  move- 
ment toward  real  outdoor  life  began  to  take  distinct 
shape. 

Among  other  features  of  the  reaction  against  stereotyped 
hotel  and  "  cottage  "  life  and  the  continuance  in  summer  of 
the  winter's  conventions  was  the  birth  of  a  most  beneficent 
institution — the  organized  Boys'  Camp. 

These  were  camps  conducted  by  earnest,  thoughtful  men 
who  had  the  largeness  of  vision  to  see  what  it  would  mean 
to  a  boy's  future  as  cities  crowded  and  schools  enlarged. 
They  saw  that  the  boys'  breathing-space,  living-space,  his 
opportunities  for  the  expenditure  of  normal  activity  were 
being  slowly  cut  off.  They  realized  that  the  initiative  to 
build  and  delve  and  construct  as  any  normal  boy  ought 
to  do  was  being  eliminated. 

Unusual  Opportunities  foi  Boys'  Camps 

The  physical  opportunities  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
United  States  were  unusual,  and  New  England  saw  the  first 
camp. 

183 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


The  long  line  of  lakes  extending  through  the  heart  of  New 
Hampshire,  and  the  green  hills  of  Vermont,  afford  splendid 
opportunities,  while  Maine,  with  its  thousand-odd  miles  of 
winding  coast  line,  its  noble  rivers,  countless  lakes,  and  fer- 
tile valleys,  exerted  a  lure  that  few  boys  could  resist  who 
loved  the  open  country.  Canada,  with  its  tributaries  to  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  other  rivers,  and  its  wonderful  lakes, 
is  gaining  more  boys'  camps.  From  a  humble  collection 
of  tents  and  a  shack  or  two,  with  a  lumber-jack  or  native 
farmer-wife  for  cook,  boys'  camps  became  institutions  with 
careful  and  well-constructed  buildings,  where  comfort  was 
found  but  simple  living  not  lost.  There  were  canoes  and 
boats  of  the  best  and  latest  models,  ice-houses  with  pure  ice 
cut  near  at  hand,  kitchens  where  sanitary  and  dietetic  rules 
were  observed.  The  surrounding  vegetation,  trees,  and  water- 
ways were  all  carefully  considered.  Boys'  camps  soon  be- 
came an  important  business.  They  brought  money  into  the 
rural  districts,  and  it  paid  the  farmer  to  bring  his  best  vegeta- 
bles, fruit  and  eggs  and  milk  to  them.  He  avoided  a  long  haul 
to  a  village  market,  as  a  rule,  and  pay  was  prompt.  Some 
camps  had  their  own  farms,  which  the  caretaker  cultivated. 

The  camping  idea  spread  like  wild-fire,  and  each  season 
saw  a  half-dozen  or  more  spring  into  life.  Clubs,  Y.  M.  C. 
A.'s,  churches,  schools,  colleges,  villages — all  began  building 
camps.  Popular  authors  advertised  camps,  and  a  small 
army  of  professors  and  teachers  entered  upon  the  new  calling. 

Family  Camps 

The  majority  of  these  were  for  boys,  but  there  were  camps 
also  for  men  and  women — family  camps,  so-called — and 

184 


THE   GROWTH   OF   ORGANIZED   CAMPS 

camps  for  girls.  In  the  family  camps  a  tired  business  or 
professional  man  could  rent  a  log  cabin  for  himself -and 
family,  and  obtain  meals  at  a  central  pavilion  or  dining- 
hall,  and  be  as  independently  aloof  or  convivial  as  they  de- 
sired. The  father  could  have  his  own  catch  of  fish  served  up 
to  him  at  his  own  table,  to  which  he  sat  down  in  his  flannel 
shirt  and  rough  boots.  Fashion  was  dead  and  comfort  King. 
But  his  vacation  might  be  short  or  he  could  not  get  away  to 
a  camp,  or  had  no  desire  for  it,  and  his  growing  son  must 
be  sent  somewhere.  The  wife  and  daughters  might  go  to  a 
hotel,  but  it  was  a  poor  place  for  the  boy.  But  it  was  found 
that  the  organized  boys'  camp  offered  good  food,  no  late 
hours,  constant  amusement  and  instruction  in  the  out-of- 
door  world,  carefully  selected  companionship,  and  absence  of 
danger. 

Organized  Camps 

Take  up  almost  any  popular  magazine  in  the  spring 
or  summer,  and,  turning  back  to  its  advertising  section, 
there  will  be  found  a  considerable  space  devoted  to  camps. 
Indeed,  so  great  is  the  volume  of  camp  advertising  that 
several  magazines  have  created  departments  which  give 
their  attention  to  various  forms  of  out-of-door  living.  . 

By  writing  to  the  manager  of  such  a  department,  informa- 
tion may  be  secured  regarding  organized  camps  or  places 
for  fishing  and  hunting.  It  is  always  desirable  to  obtain 
references  and  to  look  them  up.  There  are  poor  camps  as 
well  as  good.  Investigate  all  phases. 

Make  sure  of  the  character,  business-like  conduct,  know- 
ledge, and  enthusiasm  of  the  director  as  well  as  the  quality 

185 


THE   GROWTH   OF   ORGANIZED   CAMPS 

of  the  camp.  Speaking  merely  commercially,  a  payment  of 
from  $50  to  $150  a  month  for  a  boy's  camp  life  deserves  an 
adequate  return. 

Origin 

It  seems  that  about  twenty  years  ago  a  man  named  Balch 
started  a  camp  for  boys  in  New  Hampshire  as  a  private  ven- 
ture, but  as  far  back  as  1885  Sumner  F.  Dudley  had  invited 
six  boys  to  camp  for  four  weeks  on  Lake  Orange,  near 
Poughkeepsie.  This  camp  nourished  and  grew  so  rapidly 
that  Mr.  Dudley  turned  its  management  and  equipment  over 
to  the  New  York  State  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  who  conduct  it  to  this  day 
on  Lake  Champlain.  An  idea  of  the  far-reaching  benefits 
of  this  one  man's  efforts  for  growing  boyhood  may  be  gained 
when  we  learn  that  some  twenty  thousand  boys  have  en- 
joyed the  benefits  of  this  simple  manner  of  out-of-door 
living. 

Objects  of  Boys'  Camps 

With  the  return  of  the  summer  months  each  season  comes 
up  the  question,  "What  is  wisest  to  do  with  our  boys?" 

Long  months  of  idleness  are  certainly  not  good,  and,  in 
fact,  no  normal,  healthy  boy  will  remain  long  in  doing  noth- 
ing. He  will  be,  from  the  very  force  of  the  nature  within 
him,  "  finding  out  things,"  and  the  question  at  once  arises, 
"What  is  it  wisest  for  him  to  find  out?"  Does  he  receive 
the  best  form  of  physical  development  at  home,  with  trips 
in  an  automobile,  or  to  the  beaches,  with  the  summer 
theatres  for  amusement  ?  Even  in  the  best  hotels  is  the  life, 
the  hours,  the  food,  and  examples  the  best  thing  for  him? 

187 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


There  is  much  to  amuse  him,  of  course,  but  at  the  end  of  the 
summer  how  much  is  he  benefited  ?  How  many  lessons  in 
self-control,  and  in  manly,  upright  living  has  he  learned  ? 
Has  he  been  taught  to  swim  and  dive  correctly,  to  paddle, 
row,  fish,  sail,  tramp,  make  camp,  cook  out-of-doors?  and 
has  he  come  to  know  and  love  Nature  because  of  intimate 
association  ? 

Has  he  learned  that  the  best  preparation  for  the  future  is 
the  present  well  seen  to  ?  Has  he  learned  to  speak  straight, 
think  quickly,  act  instantly,  to  practise  some  self-denial, 
and  do  each  day  some  unselfish  thing  for  the  other  fellow? 
Has  he  learned  to  look  up  at  the  stars  in  quiet  peace  and  be 
glad  just  to  be  alive  because  the  pure  red  blood  is  pounding 
in  his  veins. 

But  camping!  What  does  it  mean  in  a  well-conducted 
boys'  camp?  It  means  a  maximum  of  fun  and  the  ac- 
quirement of  robust  health.  It  means  the  association  of 
manly  men  and  boys  in  a  sane,  healthy,  normal  living,  and, 
as  Dr.  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  used  to  say,  "the  getting  of 
more  iron  into  the  blood  and  phosphorus  into  bones,  which 
is  the  salvation  of  this  nation." 


Chapter   XIV 

HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A  CAMP 

CONDUCTING  a  successful,  happy,  healthy,  and  well- 
^.^  ordered  camp  for  boys  or  girls  in  these  modern  times 
is  as  much  of  a  profession  as  practising  medicine  or  law. 

Trained  Directors 

With  the  tremendous  popularity  of  this  form  of  out-of- 
door  living  there  have  come  great  and  desirable  changes. 
In  the  best  camps  experienced  men  have  been  brought  to 
teach  woodcraft,  scouting,  and  campcraft  or  campercraft, 
whichever  term  one  prefers.  Men  skilled  in  handicrafts 
have  been  brought  to  teach  wood-carving,  carpentry,  brass 
and  leather  work.  Boys  are  shown  how  to  scientifically 
construct  kites,  model  aeroplanes,  and  sail  boats.  There 
are  camps  and  camps,  and  close  inquiry  is  always  neces- 
sary. In  the  best,  well-known  physical  trainers  are  em- 
ployed to  coach  the  boys  in  swimming,  running,  paddling, 
and  to  give  them  setting-up  drills. 

Each  boy  is  carefully  weighed,  measured,  and  charted. 
Fig.  i  shows  a  typical  measurement  chart.  If  the  boy 
has  any  physical  defects  they  are  systematically  and  scien- 
tifically helped  by  corrective  gymnastics. 

189 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


If  a  boy  has  a  musical  taste,  it  is  fostered  and  brought  out 
by  glee  clubs  and  musical  Saturday  evenings. 

His  social  atmosphere  is  made  as  pure  and  refined  as  clean- 
cut  men  can  make  it.  The  little  courtesies  of  life  at  table 
and  to  women  are  carefully  studied  and  helped.  A  very 
skilful,  definitely  organized  system  is  created  to  place  a 
premium  on  honor,  unselfishness,  truth,  courage,  self- 
reliance,  and  hardihood. 

The  organized  camps  for  boys,  and  under  this  heading  I 
include  girls,  fall  in  the  general  classification,  like  all  the 
world,  of  good,  bad,  and  indifferent. 

The  Profession  of  Conducting  a  Boys'  Camp 

It  is  hoped  that  here  suggestions  may  be  offered  which 
will  prove  of  value  to  parents  in  selecting  a  camp,  and  will 
bring  home  to  them  an  understanding  of  the  methods  of  di- 
rection, location,  routine,  and  amusements.  This  chapter 
will  help  a  boy  after  his  arrival  in  camp  to  "get  into 
things"  intelligently,  or,  if  he  has  a  camp  of  his  own,  or  with 
friends,  show  him  the  "hidden  meanings  afield  and  afloat," 
and  lastly,  this  chapter  may  afford  some  value  and  assist- 
ance to  the  many  manly,  sincere  gentlemen  who  are  taking 
up  this  work  of  launching  and  maintaining  boys'  camps. 

This  great  enterprise  is  so  comparatively  recent  that  many 
grave  mistakes  have  been  made.  Men  have  rushed  to  some 
out-of-the-way  place  with  a  crowd  of  boys,  without  any  pre- 
conceived plans,  expecting  to  have  a  successful  camp  simply 
because  they  were  away  from  the  city.  They  have  kept  a 
memory  of  pleasant  trips  alone,  and  have  not  realized  the 

190 


CAMP  MEASUREMENT  CHART 


Age  
Weight  

Height  
Girth  Cheet  
"      Chert  Fall  .... 

I 

1 
X 

PERCENTAGE  OF  INDIVIDUAL  DEVELOPMENT 

E 
I 

£ 
I 

Age 
Weight 
Height 
Girth  Chest 
....Girth  Chest  Full 
Girth  W»Ut 
Girth  Hip. 
Girth  R  Thigh 
"      L.  Thigh 
Girth  R.C»lf 
••     L.C«]f 
..   Girth  R.  Up.  Arm 
...     "     L.  Up.  Ann 
..  Girth  R.  Fore  Arm 
...    "    L.  Fore  Arm 

"      Hip.  
"      R.  Thigh  
••      U  Thigh  
"      R.  C»lf  
"      L.  C»lf  
"      R.  Up.  Arm    . 
"      L.  Up.  Arm 
"      R.  Fore  Arm 
•      L.  Fore  Arm  . 

A  black  line  is  drawn  in  to  show  physical  development  on  entering  camp;  a  red  line 
to  show  results  on  leaving  camp.  The  point  of  intersection  with  the  perpendicular  lines 
indicates  the  boy's  standing  in  relation  to  boys  of  his  own  age.  For  instance,  if  the  weight 
line  intersects  the  perpendicular  line  marked  5,  it  means  that  only  5  per  cent,  of  the  boys 
are  below  him,  and  95  per  cent,  surpass  him  in  weight.  The  normal  line  is  50. 


.Camp  Physician. 


Fig.  / 


13 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


serious  responsibilities  of  a  boys'  camp.  And  there  are 
others  who  have  taken  up  this  organized  camp  life  for  purely 
commercial  reasons. 

Nothing  could  be  farther  away  from  the  ideas  which  go  to 
make  a  successful  and  beneficial  boys'  camp. 

The  questions  of  buildings,  of  culinary  arrangements,  of 
the  sources  of  supplies,  drinking-water,  and  camp  sanitation 
never  seem  to  trouble  some  men  until  they  arrive  on  the 
spot.  I  heard  one  man,  who  was  thinking  of  starting  a  boys' 
camp,  lightly  pass  over  the  question  of  a  cook-stove  with: 
"Oh,  we  shall  not  need  one  the  first  season;  it's  good  prac- 
tice cooking  out-of-doors."  Cooking  on  a  flat  stone  for 
thirty-five  or  forty  boys  may  be  romantic,  but  it  is  not 
practical. 

Several  years  ago  I  was  requested  to  go  and  see  some 
property  that  a  gentleman  was  thinking  of  acquiring  for  a 
boys'  camp.  He  told  me  that  he  had  seen  it  three  times 
and  that  it  was  ideal  in  every  way,  and  that  if  I  but  once 
saw  it  there  would  be  no  doubt  as  to  my  report.  His  camp 
was  to  have  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  boys,  mostly  under 
sixteen  years  of  age.  The  property  was  in  the  heart  of  the 
mountains,  twenty-seven  miles  from  any  railroad,  over 
almost  impassable  roads,  and  seven  miles  from  a  store, 
and  that  a  small  country  affair.  It  was  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  a  hospital  and  sixty-five  miles  from  a 
physician,  and  in  a  country  infested  with  all  sorts  of  wild 
animals.  Truly  it  was  as  he  said,  "Real  Simple  Life." 
While  it  is  certainly  true  that  the  object  of  a  boy's  camping 
is  to  get  away  from  the  city  and  town  life,  it  seems  to  me 
to  be  assuming  a  dire  responsibility  to  take  twenty -five 

192 


HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


to  one  hundred  boys  far  away  from  the  routes  leading  to 
civilization. 

Sanitation 

The  director  must  inform  himself  on  the  latest  camp 
sanitation. 

A  good  place  to  get  such  information  is  from  a  medical 
officer  in  the  United  States  Army.  When  I  was  first  to 
have  the  medical  care  of  a  boys'  camp,  numbering  nearly 
two  hundred  men  and  boys,  I  went  down  to  Governors 
Island  in  New  York  Harbor  and  spent  an  hour  with  the 
surgeon  in  charge,  which  has  proved  of  value  to  me  beyond 
description. 

These  officers  are  always  open  to  any  intelligent  inquiry 
during  their  hours  on  duty,  and  I  have  found  them  most 
courteous  and  helpful. 

Dietetics 

The  director  should  also  inform  himself  on  the  simple 
principles  of  dietics  and  food  values.  Quantity  is  not  always 
the  only  thing  to  consider  in  choosing  and  serving  a  boy's 
appetite. 

The  preparation  of  food  is  a  science  as  well  as  an  art,  and 
the  chemistry  of  it  is  as  precise  as  the  chemistry  of  the 
laboratory. 

This  is  a  subject  which  does  not  receive  the  attention  that 
it  deserves,  and  this  is  true  of  many  homes  as  well  as  camps. 
To  a  very  large  extent,  larger  than  the  average  person 
realizes,  is  the  comfort  and  happiness  of  the  home  dependent 
on  carefully  selected  anci  prepared  food, 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Boys'  Growth 

I  cite  growth  to  show  the  importance  of  food  values. 
Besides  the  wear  and  tear  of  the  day's  work  there  is  a  pro- 
portionate amount  of  work  in  merely  keeping  alive — and  this 
waste  and  wear  and  tear  on  the  engine  must  be  met  as  in- 
telligently as  possible.  In  a  growing  boy,  however,  there 
is  still  another  factor  to  be  considered,  and  that  is  that  ma- 
terial must  be  supplied  for  his  growth  plus  the  food  which 
supplies  the  actual  loss  of  substance.  It  is  this  law  of 
demand  and  supply  which  maintains  that  poise  and  balance 
between  waste  and  repair  which  we  call  health. 

Location  of  the  Camp 

In  choosing  a  permanent  site  for  a  boys'  camp  the  same 
care,  thought,  and  foresight  should  be  observed  that  one 
would  put  into  the  selection  of  a  place  to  erect  one's  own 
home.  A  spot  which  is  to  be  the  playground,  out-of-door 
school-room,  and  home  for  a  group  of  men  and  boys  for  two 
months  or  more  cannot  be  observed  too  carefully  from  all 
possible  points  of  view.  Ideal  sites  are  very  difficult  to  find. 
I  have  travelled  thousands  of  miles  examining  and  surveying 
land  without  finding  one  acceptable  spot.  Ask  yourself 
if  the  district  is  one  that  is  likely  to  be  populated  rapidly 
with  cottages,  camps,  and  hunting-lodges.  Is  it  a  popular 
hunting-ground,  with  the  attendant  dangers  to  boys  of  fire- 
arms in  the  hands  of  reckless  individuals  ?  Avoid,  as  you 
would  the  plague,  any  district  where  there  is  a  land  boom, 

194 


HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


Physician 

Can  you  secure  the  services  of  a  physician,  should  you 
need  one,  in  a  reasonably  short  time?  Have  you  thought 
what  you  would  do  in  case  a  boy  had  to  be  operated  upon 
for  appendicitis  or  some  kindred  trouble?  (I  have  had 
four  operative  cases  in  camp.)  Could  you  get  the  invalid 
to  a  hospital  in  a  reasonably  short  time — twenty-four  hours  ? 
Ask  the  local  physician  how  many  cases  of  typhoid  he  has 
seen  in  the  last  three  fall  seasons.  Look  over  the  surround- 
ing ten  miles  for  low,  swampy  ground  where  malarial 
mosquitoes  breed,  see  to  the  general  dip  of  the  land,  the 
direction  of  drainage,  the  elevation  of  the  lakes,  mountains, 
and  surrounding  country  as  given  by  the  United  States 
Survey  maps.  These  may  be  obtained  from  Washington, 
by  writing  to  the  Director  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Survey,  at  five  cents  each.  Give  him  a  general  idea  of  the 
country  that  you  are  interested  in. 

Surroundings 

Find  out  the  direction  of  the  prevailing  winds;  this  is  very 
important  in  the  erection  of  tents,  as  will  be  seen  later. 
Look  up  the  average  rainfall,  thunder-storms,  accidents  by 
lightning,  general  consistency  of  the  soil,  and  see  whether 
sand  or  clay  predominates.  Stumps  and  rocks  upon  which 
a  diver  may  strike  should  be  removed,  or,  if  that  is  not 
possible,  marked  out  with  a  white  or  red  flag. 

The  beach,   each   season,   should   be  very  carefully  and 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


systematically  cleared  of  broken  bottles,  old  tin  cans,  and 
general  rubbish.  This  is  very  important,  as  guides  and  pass- 
ing hunters  and  fishermen  are  never  too  careful  when  camp- 
ing on  an  attractive  bit  of  beach  in  the  spring  and  fall 
when  the  regular  camp  is  closed. 

If  a  beach  is  rocky  and  unattractive  it  may  be  improved 
by  picking  out  the  worst  stones,  raking  down  carefully,  and 
hauling  a  load  or  two  of  fine  sand. 

Soil 

A  sandy  or  light  soil  always  makes  by  far  the  better 
camping-ground  for  a  boys'  camp.  Remember  that  many 
hurrying  feet  are  going  to  and  fro  during  the  coming  weeks, 
and  your  grass  will  be  worn  away,  and  the  soil  under- 
neath will  make  a  great  deal  of  difference  in  the  comfort  of 
all.  The  earth  must  be  of  a  quality  that  permits  the  rapid 
filtering  through  of  surface  moisture.  Pools  of  standing 
water  are  never  good  sanitation.  A  clay  soil,  like  that  along 
the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  after  a  heavy  rain,  will 
make  walking  all  but  impossible,  even  for  horses.  Three 
days'  rain  in  a  district  of  this  sort,  with  thirty  or  forty  boys 
carrying  huge  cakes  of  tenacious  mud  from  tent  to  dining- 
hall,  will  reduce  a  camp  cook  to  maniacal  mutterings. 

There  is  a  camp  in  Michigan  where  the  boys,  looking  for 
amusement  one  rainy  day,  built  a  chute  down  the  side  of  a 
steep  clay  bank.  It  was  dirty,  but  certainly  slippery.  The 
boys  stripped  and  slid  down  to  the  river  below.  In  Chap- 
ter XX  it  is  explained  how  an  effective  chute  can  be  built. 

I  paddled  into  a  large  boys'  camp  at  the  close  of  four 

196 


HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


rainy  days  and  found  a  group  gleefully  watching  the  camp- 
ers assembling  at  the  dining-tent.  The  approach  was  down 
a  steep  incline  of  clay,  studded  with  outcropping  rocks. 
Boy  after  boy  got  half-way  down,  then  up  went  his  feet  and 
down  he  slipped  on  mother  earth  the  rest  of  the  distance, 
where  he  was  rescued,  somewhat  the  worse  for  wear,  by 
his  comrades.  His  only  satisfaction  was  then  to  join  the 
group  and  wait  for  another  unfortunate. 

The  importance  of  the  soil  in  regard  to  the  cesspools  and 
toilets,  with  relation  to  the  source  of  drinking-water  and  the 
danger  of  polluting  the  bathing-place,  should  always  be 
borne  in  mind. 

A  hole  should  be  dug  to  ascertain  the  quality  and  variety 
of  soil  to  the  depth  of  six  to  ten  feet.  Frequently  this  will 
show  a  surface  soil  of  sandy  quality,  which  is,  of  course,  an 
excellent  filter,  and  immediately  underneath  a  clay  outcrop, 
or  shelving  ledge  of  rock,  that  acts  as  a  perfect  conductor  of 
all  filth  to  the  well  or  stream  from  which  the  drinking  water 
is  obtained  or  the  cove  in  which  bathing  is  permitted. 

While  it  is  true  that  a  clay  top-soil  will  make  a  good  tennis 
court,  the  disadvantages  that  it  offers  for  the  baseball  field 
are  enough  to  offset  it,  and  a  load  or  two  of  clay  can  usually 
be  hauled  by  a  farmer  from  a  clay  bank  or  brickyard. 

Mosquitoes 

The  surrounding  country  should  be  looked  over  for  ma- 
larious and  swampy  regions.  As  the  most  common  trans- 
mitter of  malaria  is  the  mosquito,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place 
here  to  say  a  word  on  that  subject.  The  common  house 

197 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


mosquito  is  not  the  malarial  one.  It  is  not  the  city-bred 
but  the  country-bred  insect  that  causes  all  the  trouble. 
One  or  two  simple  points  are  sufficient  to  afford  a  ready 
distinction  by  almost  any  individual. 

(1)  The  palpi,  or  feelers,  of  the  Culex,  or  non  -  malarial 
mosquito,  are  very  short,  and  only  seen  on  close  observation, 
while  on  the  Anopheles,  or  malarial  mosquito,  they  are  long, 
giving    the  insect  the    appearance    of   having   three   pro- 
boscises. 

(2)  The  wings  of  the  Culex  are  finely  lined,  of  the  Anoph- 
eles plainly  mottled. 

(3)  The  Culex  when  it  is  sitting  on  the  wall  or  ceiling  holds 
its  position  with  a  pair  of  legs  curled  up  above  its  back, 
while  its  body  lies  nearly  parallel  to  the  wall.     The  Anoph- 
eles when  sitting  on  the  wall  or  ceiling  holds  its  position 
with  a  pair  of  legs  against  the  wall  or  hanging  down.     The 
body,  instead  of  lying  against  the  wall  or  ceiling,  protrudes 
at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 

(4)  The  Culex  when  lighting  settles  horizontally,  while 
the  Anopheles  alights,  as  it  were,  head  first. 

Privacy 

As  a  general  proposition,  it  may  be  laid  down  as  unwise 
to  have  a  boys'  camp  near  a  popular  summer  resort  or 
nearer  than  several  miles  at  least  to  a  large  or  fashionable 
hotel.  A  stream  of  visitors,  constantly  passing  launches, 
and  parties  detract  from  the  regular  routine,  and  upset 
discipline.  Most  camps  have  regular  visiting  days.  I 
called  at  a  large  camp  the  day  after  a  boy  had  been  requested 

198 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


to  paint  a  sign  referring  to  visiting  days.     The  following 
legend  greeted  us  at  the  fence: 

CAMP  BLANK 

PRIVATE    PROPERTY 

No  Trespassing  Except  on  Thursday,  2-6  P.  M. 

Tent-placing 

In  Chapter  V,  which  deals  with  individual  as  distinguished 
from  organized  camps,  some  excellent  explanations  have 
been  given  of  tent-making  and  of  pitching  tents.  While 
many  things  which  are  said  there  are  applicable  to  the 
larger  or  organized  camps,  the  subject  is  of  so  much  im- 
portance, and  the  conditions  so  much  more  complicated, 
that  it  seems  advisable  to  consider  this  and  other  branches 
of  camp  life  in  greater  detail  with  a  view  to  the  requirements 
of  a  considerable  body  of  campers. 

In  erecting  a  tent  either  near  one's  home  or  in  the  wild 
woods  two  points  should  always  be  observed.  First,  it 
should  never  be  placed  over  a  depressed  place  in  the  ground 
or  hollow  and  never  under  thick  foliage.  Tents  will  soon 
become  soggy  and  damp  in  shady  spots,  and  the  ground 
under  them  will  retain  dampness  and  moisture  much  longer 
than  under  a  building.  They  should  always  be  erected 
where  the  sunshine  may  enter  during  the  morning  or  after- 
noon hours. 

The  ideal  place  to  erect  a  tent  is  where  the  midday  rays 
of  the  sun  are  shaded,  but  where  the  early  and  last  rays  have 

200 


HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


free  scope.  Secondly,  remembering  the  number  of  fallen 
trees  or  broken  branches  that  one  sees  after  a  violent  wind- 
storm, a  tent  should  never  be  placed  under  or  within  falling 
distance  of  a  dead  or  rotten  tree.  If  the  tree  is  living  but 
has  dead  branches  extending  over  the  tent,  cut  them  off, 
using  a  saw  if  possible,  and  doing  a  neat  job. 

Permanent  camps  should  never  be  built  on  low  ground, 
in  a  narrow  valley  or  ravine,  however  picturesque  the 
scenery.  A  ridge  or  sloping  hillside  with  good  drainage  in  at 
least  one  direction  is  best.  Most  promontories  jutting  out 
into  lakes  or  rivers  make  splendid  spots  for  camping.  There 
is  the  advantage  of  the  sweep  of  air  through  the  trees  and 
grass  on  two  sides,  driving  away  flies,  mosquitoes,  and  the 
many  little  pests  of  the  field  and  forest.  It  is  always  cool  at 
night  with  so  much  water  about,  and  there  is  usually  an  at- 
tractive bit  of  landscape.  Islands,  for  the  reasons  already 
stated  above,  are  nearly  always  excellent  camping-grounds. 

Sandy  beaches  in  sheltered  coves  are  always  desirable  for 
bathing,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  indicate  a  safe  place, 
gradually  deepening,  for  non-swimmers. 

As  a  rule,  tents  should  never  face  north,  because  of  the 
cold  winds.  In  the  Middle  Atlantic  States  a  western  or 
southern  frontage  is  best  both  for  the  pleasure  of  watching 
the  sunsets  and  for  the  milder  winds. 

There  are  certain  trees  that  are  less  attractive  to  lightning 
and  are  said  to  be  struck  less  frequently,  which  is  a  point  to 
bear  in  mind  in  the  erection  of  .tents.  They  are  those  rich 
in  juices,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  known,  "fat  bearing," 
such  as  the  birch,  beech,  and  cottonwoods.  The  non-fat 
bearing  are  the  oak,  elm,  and  maple. 

201 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


The  extra  piece  of  canvas  known  as  a  "fly"  will  be  found 
a  great  advantage  to  the  comfort  of  the  dwellers.  It  sheds 
water,  keeping  the  tent  dry,  permits  a  circulation  of  air  be- 
neath it  and  the  tent  surface,  which  is  a  decided  advantage 
in  exceedingly  hot  weather,  and  softens  the  light  that  so 
frequently  prevents  new  campers  from  sleeping  after  sun- 
rise or  when  the  moon  is  full  (see  Fig.  7,  page  55). 


Tent  Material 

Tents  are  made  of  canvas  (the  best  is  8  or  lo-oz.  duck), 
khaki,  and  balloon  silk.  I  have  heard  boys  complain  that 
khaki  tents  are  too  dark  and  gloomy  on  dull  days,  and  others 
that  canvas  is  too  light  on  bright  days,  so  that  one  must  make 
one's  own  choice.  The  balloon-silk  tents  are  very  light,  and 
one  of  moderate  size  can  be  packed  in  a  dress-suit  case. 
The  disadvantages  are  that  they  crackle  in  a  breeze  like  a 
crumpled  newspaper,  they  light  up  very  brilliantly,  and  they 
are  about  twice  as  expensive  as  the  other  two.  The  brill- 
iancy of  the  light  may  be  tempered  by  a  khaki  fly. 

The  khaki  tents  are,  undoubtedly,  more  durable  but 
slightly  more  expensive  than  canvas.  As  was  said  in  Chap- 
ter V,  they  may  be  purchased  at  a  low  price  from  second- 
hand stores  that  sell  supplies  purchased  from  the  Govern- 
ment. Bannerman's,  on  Broadway,  New  York,  and  George 
C.  Peck,  of  Newburg,  New  York,  occur  to  me  as  examples. 
A  10  x  12  canvas  tent  costs  about  twenty  to  thirty  dollars; 
a  khaki  of  the  same  size  costs  about  thirty  to  thirty-eight 
dollars,  while  a  silk  tent  of  the  same  size  would  cost  about 

202 


HOW   TO   CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


sixty-five  dollars  new.     The  Government  does  not  use  the 
last,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  purchase  one  second  hand. 

To  Erect  a  Tent 

To  erect  a  wall  tent  (see  illustrations  in  Chapter  V)  care- 
fully unfold  it.  Take  the  tent  by  its  ridge,  or  peak  of  the 
roof,  and  draw'  it  out  flat  on  the  ground  until  it  is  perfectly 
smooth.  See  that  all  the  guy  and  foot  ropes  are  clear  and 
untangled,  having  no  knots,  or  they  may  embarrass  you 
later.  If  the  flaps  are  tied  together,  untie  them,  so  that 
when  the  tent  is  up  you  may  enter  from  either  end  freely. 
Now  take  the  fly  and  place  it  over  the  top  of  the  tent  (still 
on  the  ground)  in  such  a  manner  that  both  eyelets  or  peg- 
holes  will  be  over  each  other.  Have  your  assistant  hold  the 
top  of  the  peak  up  while  you  slip  the  under  side  of  the  fly 
down  under  the  tent,  as  you  would  slip  a  cloth  school-bag 
over  a  book.  If  you  are  alone  put  a  rock  of  some  weight 
over  the  upper  edge  of  tent. 

Tent  Poles 

The  poles  are  three  in  number,  the  long  one  for  the  ridge 
pole,  supported  by  a  brace  at  each  end,  to  which  it  is  attached 
by  spike  or  ball,  or  even  a  large  nail.  (See  illustrations, 
pages  51,  55,  63.)  The  horizontal,  or  ridge  pole,  should 
always  rest  on  top  of  the  uprights,  not  between  them.  It 
will  not  bear  the  strain  otherwise. 

Poles  are  usually  made  of  spruce  or  pine,  and  in  a  fixed 
camp  are  nicely  rounded  with  the  ends  bound  in  zinc  or 

203 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


sheet-iron  to  keep  them  from  splitting.  Cedar  poles  may 
be  cut  with  a  butt  some  two  inches  in  diameter ;  the  bark,  if 
kept  on,  gives  them  a  rustic  appearance.  (See  also  page  53.) 
Roll  up  the  top  layer  of  fly  and  tent  until  you  can  readily 
put  the  ridge  pole  in  position,  slip  your  uprights  into  place, 
fasten  them  to  horizontal  ridge  pole  and  fold  your  rolled-up 
tent  fly  down  over  them.  Have  your  stakes  ready — four 
long,  strong,  sharp  ones — at  least  three  feet  long.  Iron  ones 
are  best  for  the  four  corners.  Now  seize  the  uprights  and 
raise  your  house.  Be  sure  that  your  uprights  are  exactly 
perpendicular,  and,  while  you  hold  them,  have  your  as- 
sistant stake  out  the  four  corners.  Do  not  attempt  to  do 
anything  to  the  sides  until  the  corners  are  secure.  The  tent 
will  now  stand  alone  and  the  staking  out  of  the  guy  ropes 
along  the  side  will  be  begun.  Two  points  here:  be  careful 
not  to  draw  the  tent  too  much  to  one  side  by  staking  one 
side  tighter,  and  have  guy  ropes  in  a  direct  line  with  the 
arch  of  the  roof.  Now,  and  not  till  now,  stake  out  the  fly; 
begin  at  each  corner  just  as  the  tent  is  started.  Be  very 
sure  that  it  is  free  from  the  tent  roof  by  at  least  four 
inches.  The  fly  should  not  be  permitted  to  sag  anywhere. 
The  edge  of  the  tent  wall  may  be  attached  to  the  floor  by 
slipping  the  loops  over  screw  hooks  or  nails  driven  under 
the  floor.  Never  nail  a  tent  down  to  the  flooring.  (Consult 
Chapter  V  in  following  these  details.) 

Floors 

Tents  should  always  have  some  sort  of  flooring.     Never, 
if  it  can  be  avoided,  choose  sand  to  sleep  on,     It  feels  soft 

304 


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for  about  an  hour  and  after  that  it  packs  down  to  fit  every 
contour  of  the  body,  until  no  position  is  comfortable. 

Of  course  in  erecting  a  camp  for  a  protracted  stay — a 
house  camp — a  board  floor  is  the  thing.  (See  illustrations, 
page  55,  Fig.  u,  and  page  59,  Figs.  12,  13.)  This  may  be 
constructed  of  any  boards  an  inch  thick.  The  slight  extra 
expense  involved  in  using  boards  planed  on  one  side  will  be 
more  than  compensated  for  by  the  lack  of  splinters  picked 
up  by  the  bare  feet  in  the  night.  It  is  a  mistake  to  econo- 
mize lumber  by  placing  boards  so  as  to  have  a  space  be- 
tween them.  A  considerable  portion  of  time  will  be  spent 
crawling  or  feeling  under  the  tent  floor  for  lost  articles. 

Elevate  the  flooring  on  stringers,  2x4,  or  logs  at  least 
4  inches  thick.  This  promotes  a  free  circulation  of  air,  keeps 
the  ground  dry,  and  permits  exploration  for  skunks  and  other 
pests  that  might  set  up  a  home.  If  the  tent  floor  has  knot- 
holes plug  them  up  or  place  the  beds,  trunks,  or  camp  furni- 
ture over  them.  They  are  ever  ready  to  receive  fountain- 
pens,  penknives,  and  various  small  articles. 

On  the  trail  on  trips  away  from  the  main  camp  tent 
floors  may  be  made  of  canvas  or  skin  rugs,  carried  for  that 
purpose,  or  boughs. 

Wigwam  or  Tepee  in  the  Woods 

Although  the  building  of  a  tepee,  which  is  the  proper  In- 
dian term,  or  wigwam,  as  we  often  call  it,  has  been  described 
for  home-staying  boys  in  Chapter  II,  I  add  an  explanation 
for  boys  in  the  woods. 

Drive  a  peg  in  the  centre  of  a  space  that  has  been  pre- 
206 


HOW   TO    CONDUCT   A   CAMP 


viously  cleared  and,  tying  a  peg  to  a  rope,  attach  the  latter 
to  the  centre  peg  for  use  just  as  a  compass  is  used  in  draw- 
ing. Now  describe  a  circle.  The  outer  boundary  of  this 
will  mark  the  limits  of  the  tepee  wall.  Get  about  ten  or  a 
dozen  slim  poles,  alder  will  do,  and  tie  these  all  together 
at  their  tops,  and  spread  their  butts  out  around  the  circle  at 
equal  distances  apart.  Place  the  pole  cover  or  tent  proper 
over  these  uprights,  and  lace  or  pin  up.  In  an  Indian  tepee 
a  smoke-hole  is  made  at  the  top  by  flaps  which  are  opened 
and  closed  by  two  long  poles.  The  Indians  build  a  fire  in 
the  middle  of  this  tepee  in  a  hole  dug  about  6  inches  or  i 
foot  deep,  which  is  seldom  permitted  to  blaze,  but  is  kept 
down  to  a  smudge.  (See  illustrations  on  pages  13,  15,  16.) 

Sibley  Tents 

Sibley  tents  are  not  used  as  much  as  the  other  varieties, 
but  have  some  merits.  They  are  round  and  taper  up  to  a 
point  like  a  cone,  and  because  of  their  steep  pitch  shed  water 
very  well.  They  are  set  up  with  one  pole  in  the  centre. 
This  pole  may  be  in  sections,  like  a  fishing-rod,  if  desired. 
In  a  treeless  region  these  tents  have  the  advantage  of  not 
needing  any  other  support.  The  department  stores  carry 
Sibley  tents  in  their  sporting  -  goods  departments.  They 
can  also  be  purchased  at  Bannerman's,  on  Broadway,  or  at 
the  tent  and  sail  manufacturers  along  South  Street,  New 
York,  or  Atlantic  Avenue,  in  Boston. 

The  method  given  by  Mr.  Horace  Kephart  in  his  excellent 
work,  The  Book  of  Camping  and  Woodcraft,  is  as  good  as 
any,  and  I  take  it  direct  from  him: 
14  207 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


"For  a  Sibley  tent  make  a  loop  in  one  end  of  its  leech 
ropes,  and  another  at  such  a  distance  from  this  as  will  mark 
the  radius  of  the  tent  when  set  up  taut;  also  another  loop 
farther  out,  marking  the  radius  of  the  guys.  If  the  tent  has 
a  wall,  drive  a  peg  in  the  centre  of  the  space  that  it  has 
to  cover,  loop  the  end  of  the  line  over  it  and,  with  the  other 
peg  used  alternately  in  the  other  loops,  draw  two  concentric 
circles  on  the  ground.  Drive  the  pegs  and  guy  stakes  in 
these  circles,  respectively,  loop  on  the  gromet  lines  to  the 
former,  raise  the  tent,  and  then  make  them  all  taut." 


Chapter  XV 

THE  BILL  OF  FARE 

A  CAMPER  is  entitled  to  a  good  appetite,  but  he  should 
be  able  to  prepare  his  food  himself.  In  a  previous 
chapter  we  have  been  introduced  to  the  comparatively 
simple  requirements  of  the  domestic  camper.  In  this  chap- 
ter we  shall  consider  the  requirements  of  long  trips,  and  also 
of  camps  containing  a  number  of  boys. 

The  amount,  quality,  and  variety  of  food  is  one  of  the 
young  camper's  greatest  problems.  The  "grub  list"  will 
depend,  of  course,  on  the  nature  of  the  trip.  The  meth- 
od of  transportation  determines  at  once,  to  a  very  great 
extent,  what  can  be  taken.  The  boy  on  a  walking  trip  can- 
not be  loaded  down  with  a  lot  of  canned  goods,  whereas 
on  a  canoe  trip  canned  goods  are  excellent  ballast.  Sacks 
of  flour  and  cornmeal,  when  one  has  a  pony  to  carry  them, 
are  very  necessary  features  of  the  food  supply.  There  are 
several  articles  that  make  fine  additions  to  an  outfit.  Dried 
beef,  corned  beef,  canned  sardines  (the  French  variety) ,  and 
lemons  are  always  welcome.  There  is  a  variety  of  beef 
capsules  called  "Sterzo"  that  come  in  watertight  tin  boxes 
which  make  an  excellent  beef  tea  instantly  by  adding  boiling 
water.  Soups  are  always  welcome,  on  cold,  raw  days 
particularly.  They  can  be  made  of  almost  anything, 

209 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


On  short  trips  where  possibly  two  school  holidays  come 
in  succession,  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  prepare  at  home  as 
much  as  possible  for  the  meals.  Sandwiches  always  make 
a  valuable  addition  to  the  larder.  Dough  may  be  prepared 
beforehand  under  competent  direction  and  carried  in  cans 
and  baked  on  a  hot,  flat  rock  or  a  sheet  of  tin  beside  the 
glowing  coals.  Coffee  may  be  ground  at  home  and  sewed 
up  in  a  small  sack  which  can  be  thrown  into  water  that  is 
boiling. 

One  of  the  most  important  things  for  a  young  camper  in 
his  outfitting  is  to  remember  the  importance  of  careful 
preparation  in  advance.  As  far  as  possible,  always  plan 
the  meals  out  before  leaving  home.  It  is  not  at  all  unusual 
for  boys  to  hurriedly  throw  all  their  equipment  together, 
pellmell,  with  the  idea  of  "fixing  up  things  "  after  they  arrive. 
This  shows  the  novice.  A  glance  at  the  contents  of  a 
canoe,  the  arrangement  o£  a  camp,  or  the  construction  of 
a  camp-fire  will  at  once  mark  an  old  from  a  new  camper. 
In  the  former  will  be  found  orderliness  and  neatness;  the 
cooking  utensils  will  be  carefully  grouped  together;  the 
food  supply  will  be  raised  above  the  sand  or  moss  on  a 
rock,  box,  or  improvised  table;  the  canoes  turned  over; 
and  the  bedding  carefully  elevated  in  some  secure  place. 
(Refer  to  Fig.  n,  page  73.) 

Food  for  Canoe  Trips 

Here  the  cooking  utensils  should  be  carefully  placed  in 
one  box,  and  the  food  supply,  knives,  forks,  spoons,  cups, 
and  plates  in  tin  boxes  with  watertight  covers.  These 

210 


THE    BILL    OF   FARE 


may  be  purchased  in  any  department  store  in  the  house- 
furnishing  department.  Upon  landing  for  a  meal,  the 
boxes  should  be  at  once  taken  from  the  canoe,  the  cook- 
ing utensils  arranged  as  needed,  while  the  knives,  forks, 
spoons,  and  plates  may  be  taken  out  of  the  tin  box  as  each 
one  comes  for  his  rations.  This  avoids  their  getting  lost 
and  keeps  them  clean  until  needed.  These  things  have  an 
astonishing  way  of  slipping  down  into  sand  or  becoming 
buried  in  moss  or  pine  needles. 

There  are  various  makes  of  canned  goods  which  are  ex- 
cellent food.     Canned  tomatoes,  corn,  fruits,  beans,  soup, 


M.f.'  > 

•I  v 


AT    DINNER    IN    A    BOYS      ORGANIZED    CAMP 

meats,  and  sardines  are  easy  to  prepare  and  make  excellent 
ballast  in  the  canoe.  Nearly  everything  edible,  in  general, 
has  at  some  time  or  another  been  canned,  and  a  great  many 
of  these  things  are  abominations.  Condensed  coffee,  con- 
densed eggs,  condensed  beef,  and  most  beef  extracts  are  very 

211 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


poor  food.  Condensed  milk  is  a  good  thing,  while  condensed 
cream  (if  one  can  stand  its  peculiar  taste)  will  make  a 
valuable  addition  to.  a  meal. 

However,  canned  goods  have  met  with  a  great  deal  of  un- 
deserved criticism.  True,  there  are  frequently  cheap  va- 
rieties carelessly  made,  where  the  can,  soldered  in  a  clumsy 
manner,  will  permit  decomposition  of  the  food.  But  those 
purchased  from  any  reliable  house  and  thoroughly  endorsed 
are  without  danger.  One  important  point  must  be  remem- 
bered: That  is,  the  food  must  be  poured  from  the  cans  at 
once  when  opened.  The  food  must  not  be  permitted  to  re- 
main in  the* cans,  as  it  readily  decomposes  and  dissolves  the 
solder.  This  renders  the  food  poisonous. 

Any  boy,  with  a  little  care,  can  make  biscuits  or  flapjacks. 
The  self-raising  or  Hecker's  prepared  flour,  or  the  quality  that 
is  known  as  "Aunt  Jemima's"  self-raising  flour,  can  be  con- 
verted into  flapjacks,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  water  and 
salt,  in  about  fifteen  minutes.  The  directions  for  making 
are  printed  on  the  package,  and  it  will  pay  to  follow  them, 
as  they  have  been  carefully  worked  out  by  the  manufact- 
urers. Hardtack  is  harder  and  it  will  therefore  keep  better 
in  damp  weather  than  pilot  bread. 

HOT  BISCUITS  are  not  difficult  to  make,  and  give  the 
proud  camper  a  feeling  of  wonderful  independence  of  the 
women  folks  at  home.  They  are  best  baked  in  a  tin  reflector 
or  an  oven  dug  out  of  a  bank,  as  previously  described.  If 
baked  in  a  Dutch  oven  be  sure  that  the  fire  has  a  large  bed 
of  wood  coals  of  the  best.  Grease  the  pan  with  anything — 
bacon  rind  or  a  piece  of  bacon  is  good.  Here  is  a  recipe  for 
one  dozen  biscuits: 

212 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


i^  pints  of  flour 

i£  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt 
i   tablespoonful  of  cold  grease 
i  pint  of  cold  water  or  milk 

Lard,  butter,  or  fried-out  fat  can  be  used. 


Beverages 

COFFEE  as  a  steady  diet  for  boys  is  not  advisable.  On 
cold  mornings  or  after  an  exhaustive  day  of  paddling  or 
sailing  it  is  very  welcome,  and  may  be  made  in  the  following 
manner : 

Measure  out  the  number  of  cups  desired  by  pouring  the 
cold  water  into  the  coffee-pot  and  add  an  extra  cup  for 
possible  evaporation.  Boil  this  water  and,  when  actively 
boiling  and  not  before,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  the  ground 
berry  for  each  cupful  and  one  for  the  pot.  Boil  about  five 
minutes.  Stuff  in  a  wad  of  paper  or  leaves  in  the  nose  of  the 
coffee-pot.  This  will  prevent  the  coffee  from  boiling  over 
and  shorten  the  time  necessary  for  boiling  it. 

COCOA. — Phillips' s  Digestible  Cocoa  in  powder  is  probably 
one  of  the  best,  but  there  are  several  good  preparations. 
Place  your  cups  in  a  row  on  your  improvised  table  or 
log  and  put  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  .cocoa  in  each  cup; 
then  add  about  a  tablespoonful  of  water  and  carefully 
make  a  paste;  then  add  boiling  water,  stirring  up  the 
paste;  sweeten  to  the  taste;  add  condensed  milk  if  desired. 

OATMEAL  WATER  makes  a  very  nutritious,  although  not 
particularly  palatable,  drink.  Many  trainers  use  it  for 

213 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


athletes.  It  is  made  by  boiling  out  meal  or  soaking  it  in 
cold  water  for  several  hours  and  then  straining  off  through 
a  clean  cloth.  Add  salt. 

TEA,  as  has  been  previously  said,  can  be  made  by  sewing 
or  pinning  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  tea  in  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth or  clean  rag  and  dropping  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water. 
This  is  simple  and  reliable — an  imitation  of  the  feminine  tea- 
ball  at  home. 

Canned  corn,  tomatoes,  beef,  or  beans,  with  the  addition  of 
boiling  water  and  a  little  condensed  milk*  thickened  with 
flour,  makes  good  soup.  All  these  may  be  put  together  into  a 
pot  and  warmed  up.  If  any  old  biscuits  are  about  put  them 
in  for  dumplings.  Stir  to  prevent  burning  on  the  bottom. 


Pointers 

In  cooking  it  is  always  wise  to  follow  printed  directions 
on  cans  and  boxes  placed  there  by  the  manufacturers.  They 
have  worked  the  matter  out  carefully. 

Wash  dishes  at  once  after  finishing  a  meal.  It  is  easier 
and  will  soon  be  over.  Use  sand  or  leaves  to  remove  grease. 
Paper  will  assist  also.  Firewood  ashes  make  excellent 
scouring  material. 

Have  a  flat  rock,  box,  or  hewed  log  to  put  knives,  pots, 
pans,  and  kettles  on. 

An  old  wives'  tale  is  that  if  soot  burns  around  the  rocks 
or  in  the  fireplace  it  will  rain  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Be  sure  to  put  things  back  in  their  places  or  they  will  be 
lost.  Do  not  leave  anything  on  the  ground. 

An  excellent  range  may  be  built  of  clay  and  stones,  with 

214 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


covers  and  holes  like  any  stove.  It  should  be  built  under 
a  bank,  with  a  chimney  at  least  three  feet  high.  The 
chimney  may  be  built  of  stones  chinked  in  with  clay,  or  the 
staves  of  an  old  pork  barrel  broken  up  and  placed  around 
will  do.  Of  course,  a  piece  of  stove-pipe  is  a  luxury.  Camp 
fireplaces  have  been  discussed  in  detail  in  Chapter  VII. 

The  simplest  way  of  preparing  canned  foods  such  as 
beans  and  meats  is  to  place  the  cans  in  boiling  water  for 
ten  minutes.  On  opening  them  the  contents  will  be  ready 
to  serve. 

After  finishing  cooking  and  before  sitting  down  to  a  meal 
do  not  forget  to  put  on  the  dish-water. 

Soups l 
Here  are  some  good  soups  that  can  be  prepared  readily: 

VEGETABLE  SOUP.- — Onions,  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  beets, 
parsnips,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  squash,  etc.,  should  be  picked  over, 
washed,  pared,  and  cut  into  small  pieces  from  a  quarter  to  a  half- 
inch  thick,  put  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  rinsed  and  drained.  To- 
matoes should  be  scalded,  peeled,  and  sliced.  Cooked  meat  or 
bones  may  be  added.  Let  this  cook  slowly  for  a  reasonable  time. 
Just  before  this  is  done  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  If  made  in  an 
iron  pot  it  should  be  transferred  as  soon  as  done  to  an  earthen  or  tin 
vessel.  While  cooking,  the  soup  should  be  stirred  occasionally  to 
prevent  the  vegetables  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot  and 
skimmed  frequently.  When  done  take  out  the  vegetables,  mash 
and  return  them  to  the  soup,  boil  one  minute,  season  and  serve. 
Canned  corn  or  tomatoes  may  be  used  in  this  soup  the  same  as  fresh 
vegetables. 

BEAN  SOUP. — Pick  over  two  quarts  of  beans,  wash,  and  soak  them 
overnight  in  cold  water.  Scrape  clean  one  pound  of  salt  pork,  and 

1  Many  of  these  receipts  are  from  Canoe  and  Camp  Cookery,  by  "Seneca," 
and  they  are  used  through  the  courtesy  of  the  Forest  and  Stream  Pub- 
lishing Company. 

215 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


cut  into  thin  slices.  Drain  the  beans,  put  them  into  six  quarts  of 
cold  water,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  soda,  and  let  them  boil  gently 
for  half  an  hour,  skimming  constantly.  Then  drain  off  all  the  water 
and  put  in  the  same  amount  of  fresh  boiling  water.  Boil  slowly  for 
an  hour  and  a  half,  stirring  frequently ;  then  put  in  the  pork.  When 
the  beans  have  become  tender  enough  to  crack,  take  out  the  pork 
and  mash  the  beans  into  a  paste  with  a  wooden  masher  or  the 
bottom  of  a  large  bottle.  Then  put  all  back  and  boil  slowly  an  hour 
longer.  If  no  soda  is  used,  longer  boiling  will  be  necessary.  Bean 
soup  will  burn  if  not  constantly  stirred.  Not  much  salt,  but  plenty 
of  pepper,  should  be  used  for  seasoning. 

FRIED  BREAD  FOR  SOUPS. — Cut  stale  bread  into  square  pieces,  and 
fry  in  boiling  fat  for  an  instant.  Take  care  it  does  not  burn,  remov- 
ing it  as  soon  as  brown. 

PEA  SOUP. — Treat  the  peas  exactly  the  same  as  the  beans  in  the 
above  recipe,  except  as  to  the  preliminary  boiling  in  water  with  soda. 
Make  the  same  way  as  bean  soup.  Pea  soup  cools  and  thickens 
rapidly ;  therefore  if  squares  of  fried  bread  are  thrown  upon  the  sur- 
face before  serving,  it  should  be  done  quickly  and  while  the  bread  is 
hot.  Use  more  salt  than  with  the  bean  soup  for  seasoning,  and  boil 
gently  or  it  will  surely  burn. 

FISH  SOUP. — Cut1  up  large  fish,  after  it  has  been  cooled  from  a 
previous  cooking,  into  small  pieces,  and  stew  it.  with  a  piece  of  salt 
pork  for  two  hours. 

TOMATO  SOUP. — Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg  into  a  smooth  paste,  and  if  you  have  onions, 
chop  up  fine  one  medium-sized  one.  Prepare  about  one  pound  of 
tomatoes  by  scalding,  peeling,  and  slicing  them  (the  same  amount 
of  canned  tomatoes  may  be  used),  and  put  all  the  ingredients  with 
a  pinch  of  salt  into  one  pint  of  cold  water.  Boil  gently  for  an  hour, 
stirring  frequently  enough  to  dissolve  the  tomatoes  and  prevent 
burning,  then  stir  in  one  cup  of  boiled  milk,  and  let  it  come  again 
to  a  boil,  constantly  stirring.  Season  and  serve.  The  soup  will  be 
good  if  the  milk  is  omitted. 

FISH  CHOWDER. — Clean  the  fish  and  cut  up  all  except  the  heads 
and  tails  into  small  pieces,  leaving  out  as  many  bones  as  possible. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  the  pot  with  slices  of  fat  salt  pork,  over  that  a 
layer  of  sliced  raw  potatoes,  then  a  layer  of  chopped  onions,  then  a 
layer  of  fish,  on  the  fish  a  layer  of  crackers  first  made  tender  by  soak- 
ing in  water  or  milk.  Repeat  the  layers  except  pork  until  the  pot  is 

216 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


nearly  full.  Every  layer  must  be  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Put  in  enough  cold  water  to  moisten  the  whole  mass  well,  cover  the 
pot  closely,  set  over  a  gentle  fire  and  let  it  simmer  an  hour  or  so. 
Cook  it  till  it  is  rather  thick,  then  stir  it  gently,  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve.  Tomatoes  may  be  added  as  a  layer  after  the  onions.  A  cup- 
ful of  milk  may  be  added — condensed  milk  will  do — and  a  large 
piece  of  butter.  Just  before  taking  off,  add  more  milk.  This  makes 
a  rich  and  nutritious  fish  chowder. 

ORTHODOX  CLAM  CHOWDER. — The  first  thing  necessary  is  an  out- 
door oven  made  with  flat  stones.  Start  a  rousing  fire  in  this  and  let 
it  burn  until  every  stone  is  hot  all  the  way  through.  Then  rake  out 
the  coals  beneath,  even  to  the  faintest  cinder,  so  that  there  will  be 
no  smoky  taste  to  the  chowder.  Then  put  a  couple  of  stout  boughs 
across  the  open  top  of  the  oven,  and  cover  them  with  fresh  seaweed 
an  inch  or  two  thick.  Spread  the  shelled  clams  on  the  seaweed, 
over  them  a  layer  of  onions,  then  a  layer  of  sweet  or  Irish  potatoes 
(or  both),  then  green  corn,  then  the  fish  (cleaned  and  salted  and 
wrapped  in  a  cloth,  and  either  a  bluefish  or  a  cod,  if  extra-orthodox), 
then  a  lobster,  either  alive  or  boiled.  Now  cover  the  whole  arrange- 
ment with  a  large  cloth,  and  pile  on  seaweed  till  no  steam  escapes. 
When  it  has  cooked  half  an  hour  or  so  let  the  company  attack  it  en 
masse,  uncovering  it  gradually  as  it  is  eaten,  so  as  to  retain  the  heat 
in  it  as  long  as  possible.  The  stones  should  be  extremely  and 
thoroughly  heated,  or  the  chowder  will  be  a  failure,  and  the  cinders 
should  be  cleaned  out,  the  chowder  put  on,  and  the  whole  covered 
with  great  haste,  so  as  not  to  give  the  stones  a  chance  to  cool. 


Fish 

FRIED  FISH. — Small  fish  may  be  fried  whole,  but  large  ones  should 
be  cut  up.  Have  enough  pork  fat  or  lard  bubbling  hot  in  the  frying- 
pan  to  well  cover  the  fish.  Roll  the  fish  in  dry  cornmeal  or  flour,  or, 
what  is  better,  dip  it  into  well-beaten  egg  and  then  into  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  both  sides  to  a  clear  golden  brown.  Sprinkle 
lightly  with  pepper  and  salt  just  as  it  is  turning  brown. 

SKEWERED  TROUT. — Sharpen  a  small,  straight  .stick,  and  on  it 
skewer  small  trout  and  thin  slices  of  bacon  or  pork  in  alternation. 
Hold  over  a  bed  of  hot  coals  and  keep  constantly  turning,  so  that 

217 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


the  juices  will  not  be  lost  in  the  fire.  A  very  few  minutes  will  suf- 
fice to  cook  the  trout. 

BOILED  FISH. — Tie  or  pin  the  fish  (which  should  not  weigh  less 
than  three  pounds)  in  a  clean  cloth.  If  the  pot  is  too  small  for  the 
fish,  skewer  the  tail  into  the  mouth.  Put  it  into  enough  boiling  water 
to  cover  it  about  an  inch,  and  simmer  steadily  until  done.  Some  fish 
boil  quicker  than  others,  as  a  general  rule  those  of  white  flesh  re- 
quiring less  time  than  those  of  a  darker  tinge.  If  a  couple  of  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  and  four  ditto  of  vinegar  are  put  into  the  water  the 
fish  will  cook  sooner.  About  twenty-five  minutes  is  necessary  for 
a  three-pound  fish,  and  over  that  six  minutes  extra  to  every  pound. 
An  underdone  fish  is  not  fit  to  eat,  and  one  boiled  too  long  is  insipid. 
When  the  meat  separates  easily  from  the  backbone  it  is  cooked  just 
right.  Take  it  up,  remove  the  cloth  carefully,  and  pour  over  it  a 
hot  sauce. 

PLAIN  BAKED  FISH. — Dig  a  hole  in  the  ground  eighteen  inches 
deep  and  large  enough  to  contain  the  fish ;  build  a  fire  in  it  and  let 
it  burn  to  coals.  Remove  the  coals,  leaving  the  hot  ashes  in  the 
bottom,  on  which  place  a  thick  layer  of  green  grass.  Put  the  fish 
on  the  grass,  cover  with  another  layer  of  grass;  then  rake  back  the 
coals  and  loose  earth,  and  build  a  small  fire  on  top.  In  an  hour  the 
baking  will  be  complete,  the  skin  will  peel  off  and  leave  the  flesh 
clean.  A  fish  prepared  this  way  need  not  be  scalded,  but  only  dis- 
embowelled, as  the  scales  will  come  off  with  the  skin  after  it  is 
cooked. 

Meat,  Ham  and  Eggs,  etc* 

In  selecting  salt  pork,  especially  from  a  country  store,  be  careful 
that  it  is  smooth  and  dry.  Damp,  clammy  pork  may  cause  ptomaine 
poisoning. 

FRIED  SALT  PORK  (OR  BACON). — Slice  thin,  put  in  frying-pan  with 
cold  water  enough  to  cover,  let  it  come  to  a  boil  and  boil  two  or  three 
minutes;  then  turn  off  the  water  and  fry  brown  on  both  sides;  or 
soak  one  hour  in  cold  water,  then  roll  in  bread  or  cracker  crumbs, 
and  fry  with  a  little  butter  or  lard  in  the  pan. 

BROILED  SALT  PORK. — Slice  thin  and  broil  on  the  end  of  a  green 
switch  held  over  the  coals,  using  extra  care  that  the  smoke  and 
flame  from  the  drippings  do  not  reach  the  pork. 

HAM  AND  EGGS. — Fry  the  ham  first,  the  same  as  pork  or  bacon, 

218 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


and  fry  the  eggs  in  the  fat  left  in  the  pan.  Break  each  egg  separately 
into  a  cup,  and  thence  transfer  it  to  the  pan,  by  which  means  the 
yolks  are  kept  intact  and  bad  eggs  are  discovered  before  it  is  too 
late.  While  the  eggs  are  frying  dip  up  some  of  the  fat  with  a  spoon 
and  pour  it  over  the  tops  of  the  eggs. 

BROILING  IN  A  FRYING-PAN. — Broiling  can  be  done  as  well  with  a 
frying-pan  as  with  a  gridiron,  and  all  the  juices  are  preserved.  Heat 
the  empty  pan  very  hot  first,  then  put  in  the  meat  to  be  broiled, 
cover  over  with  a  tin  plate,  and  turn  the  meat  often  in  the  pan. 

A  broiler  is  conveniently  carried  and  is  the  best  method  of  cooking 
steak.  Do  not  permit  the  broiler  to  be  over  the  fire,  but  at  one  side. 

FROGS. — Use  only  the  hind  legs  of  small  frogs,  but  both  the  fore 
and  hind  legs  of  large  ones.  They  are  best  broiled,  but  may  be  fried 
in  butter. 

Vegetables 

BOILED  IRISH  POTATOES. — Small  or  medium-sized  potatoes  are 
preferable  to  large  ones.  Choose  those  with  small  eyes,  as  those 
with  large  eyes  are  generally  about  to  sprout  and  are  of  poor  quality. 
Do  not  pare  unless  they  are  very  old,  and  in  the  latter  case  put  them 
in  cold  water  and  allow  it  to  boil.  If  they  are  of  unequal  size  cut 
the  large  ones,  so  that  they  will  boil  evenly;  wash,  cut  out  bad  places 
and  eyes,  and  slice  off  a  piece  of  skin  at  each  pointed  end.  Put,  un- 
less old,  into  enough  boiling  salted  water  to  cover  them,  and  simmer 
steadily  till  a  sliver  will  easily  pierce  the  largest.  Strain  when  done, 
and  set  the  pot  near  the  fire,  shaking  them  occasionally  to  dry  them. 

MASHED  POTATOES. — After  boiling,  peel  and  mash  thoroughly 
with  the  bottom  of  a  large  bottle,  working  in  pepper,  salt,  butter,  and 
sufficient  hot  milk  or  water  to  make  them  into  the  consistency  of 
soft  dough.  If  mashed  in  an  iron  pot  they  will  be  discolored,  but 
will  taste  just  as  good  as  if  mashed  in  tin  or  earthenware. 

ROASTED  POTATOES. — Wash  and  wipe  them  dry,  and  cut  off  the 
ends.  Bury  them  in  the  ashes  till  a  sliver  will  easily  pierce  them. 
Do  not  make  the  common  mistake  of  putting  them  among  the  live 
coals  of  the  fire,  or  they  will  be  burned,  not  cooked  through. 

FRIED  COOKED  POTATOES. — Peel  and  slice  cold  cooked  potatoes, 
and  put  them  into  enough  "screeching  hot"  lard  or  pork  fat  to 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Stir  frequently  and  fry  slowly,  season- 
ing with  pepper  and  salt. 

219 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


FRIED  RAW  POTATOES. — Wash,  peel,  and  slice  very  thin.  Put 
few  at  a  time  into  enough  boiling  fat  to  float  the  slices.  If  too  many 
potatoes  are  put  in  at  one  time  they  will  chill  the  fat  and  will  not  fry 
evenly.  Turn  and  fry  a  light  brown  on  both  sides.  When  done,  re- 
move with  a  fork,  leaving  as  much  of  the  grease  as  possible  in  the 
frying-pan,  and  then  shake  them  up  in  a  covered  dish  to  eliminate 
the  grease  still  further. 

SWEET  POTATOES  are  cooked  the  same  as  Irish  potatoes,  but  re- 
quire a  longer  time. 

SUCCOTASH. — Cut  the  corn  from  the  cobs  and  shell  the  beans.  If 
string  beans  are  used,  string  and  cut  into  half-inch  pieces.  The 
right  proportion  for  succotash  is  two-thirds  corn  to  one-third  beans. 
Put  them  into  enough  boiling  salt  water  to  cover  them.  Stew  gently 
till  tender,  stirring  frequently;  then  drain,  add  a  cupful  of  milk  and 
a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  stir  till  it  boils  up  once. 
Season  to  taste. 

GREENS. — When  in  camp  or  on  a  cruise  a  most  delicious  dish  can 
be  made  of  boiled  greens,  of  which  a  large  variety  of  weeds  and 
plants  furnishes  the  material.  Dandelion  leaves,  nettles,  milkweed, 
spinach,  young  beat  tops,  turnip  tops,  mustard,  narrow  dock, 
mountain  cowslip,  kale,  cabbage,  poke,  sprouts,  and  other  "weeds" 
are  good.  They  should  be  picked  over  carefully,  washed  in  three 
or  four  waters,  and  soaked  in  cold  water  half  an  hour;  then  drain 
and  put  in  enough  boiling  salt  water  to  cover  them.  Press  them 
down  till  the  pot  is  full,  as  they  "boil  away"  and  lose  more  than 
half  in  substance.  Cover,  and  boil  steadily  till  tender.  Then 
drain  and  press  out  the  water.  Season  to  taste  with  butter,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  Greens  are  good  boiled  with  salt  pork,  bacon, 
corned  beef,  or  ham.  Put  them  in  the  pot  in  time  to  be  done  with 
the  meat. 

STEWED  TOMATOES. — Peel  by  pouring  over  them  boiling  water, 
when  the  skin  will  easily  come  off.  Cut  up,  discarding  unripe  and 
hard  parts.  Put  into  a  pot,  seasoning  with  butter,  pepper,  salt, 
and,  if  very  acid,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Cover,  and  stew 
gently. 

BOILED  MACARONI  may  be  readily  cooked  in  a  yacht's  galley  if  it 
be  provided  with  a  regular  yacht  stove,  but  it  is  rather  difficult  on 
a  camp-fire. 

Wipe  the  macaroni  carefully,  break  into  lengths,  put  into  a  pot 
of  boiling  salt  water  for  about  twenty  minutes  or  until  tender.  This 

220 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


food  also  comes  in  cans  and  is  fairly  palatable.  A  little  grated  cheese 
is  a  valuable  addition. 

MUSHROOMS. — Edible  mushrooms  are  found  in  clear,  open,  sunny 
fields  and  elevated  ground  where  the  air  is  pure  and  fresh ;  poisonous 
ones  are  found  in  woods,  low,  damp  ground,  in  shady  places,  and 
upon  putrefying  substances.  The  edible  kind  are  most  plentiful  in 
August  and  September,  and  spring  up  after  low-lying  fogs,  soaking 
dews,  or  heavy  rains.  They  first  appear  very  small  and  of  a  round 
form,  on  a  little  stalk,  the  upper  part  and  stalk  being  then  white. 
They  grow  very  fast,  and,  as  the  size  increases,  the  under  part 
gradually  opens  and  shows  a  fringy  fur  (called  "  gills")  of  a  delicate 
salmon  color.  After  the  mushroom  is  a  day  old  this  salmon  color 
changes  to  a  russet  or  dark  brown.  The  gills  of  the  poisonous 
variety  are  red,  green,  blue,  yellow,  or  orange  red,  and  sometimes 
white,  but  they  never  have  the  delicate  salmon  color  of  the  edible 
mushroom.  The  latter  have  an  agreeable  odor,  and  the  poisonous 
have  sometimes  a  similar  odor,  but  generally  smell  fetid.  The 
flesh  of  the  edible  kind  is  compact  and  brittle ;  that  of  the  poisonous 
generally  soft  and  watery.  The  skin  of  the  former  is  easily  peeled 
from  the  edges,  and  the  seeds  or  sprouts  are  for  the  most  part 
roundish  or  oval;  the  skin  of  the  latter  is  not  easy  to  peel,  and  the 
seeds  are  mostly  angular.  Some  poisonous  ones  assume  a  bluish 
tint  on  being  bruised,  and  others  exude  an  acrid,  milky  juice.  The 
mushroom  should  have  all  of  the  above-named  characteristics  of  the 
edible  variety  before  it  is  put  into  the  pot,  and  it  is  safest  not  to  select 
mushrooms  gathered  by  somebody  else,  as  they  change  color  after 
being  picked  several  hours,  and  the  two  kinds  are  then  difficult  to 
distinguish.  Finally,  if  a  white  peeled  onion  cooked  with  them  turns 
black,  or  if  a  silver  spoon  with  which  they  are  stirred  while  cooking 
turns  black,  don't  eat  them;  and  if  you  don't  know  a  salmon  color 
from  a  yellow,  let  somebody  gather  them  who  does. 

BOILED  GREEN  CORN. — The  sweetness  of  corn  is  better  preserved 
in  the  boiling  if  the  outer  layer  of  husks  only  is  stripped  off.  Turn 
back  the  inner  husks  and  strip  off  the  silk,  then  replace  the  inner 
husks  and  tie  the  ends.  Put  the  corn  into  enough  boiling  salt  water 
to  cover  it.  Boil,  if  young,  twenty-five  minutes;  if  old,  nearly  or 
quite  twice  as  long.  After  half  an  hour's  boiling  an  ear  had  best  be 
removed  occasionally  and  the  kernels  prodded  with  a  sliver  to  see  if 
they  have  cooked  tender.  Overboiling  spoils  corn.  Drain  off  the 
water  as  soon  as  the  corn  is  done. 

221 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Mush — Hoe-cakes — Slapjacks — Biscuits 

CORNMEAL  MUSH. — The  main  difficulties  in  making  good  cornmeal 
mush  are  the  care  necessary  to  prevent  the  formation  of  lumps  and 
the  long  time  required  to  cook  it.  The  surest  way  to  avoid  lumps  is 
to  mix  the  meal  first  with  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter, 
and  then  pour  this  batter  into  the  pot  of  boiling  water  (slightly 
salted)  very  gradually,  so  as  not  to  stop  the  boiling  process.  Suf- 
ficient of  the  batter  should  be  stirred  in  to  make  a  thin  mush,  and 
the  latter  should  then  be  boiled  until  it  is  of  such  consistency  that  it 
will  hang  well  together  when  taken  out  with  a  spoon.  The  longer 
it  is  allowed  to  boil  the  better  it  will  be,  and,  if  long  boiling  makes  it 
too  thick,  add  more  boiling  water.  It  can  be  advantageously  boiled 
two  hours,  but  is  eatable  after  twenty  minutes'  boil.  If  it  is 
sprinkled  into  the  pot  of  boiling  water  dry,  do  so  very  gradually  and 
stir  it  constantly  to  prevent  its  lumping. 

FRIED  COLD  MUSH. — Cut  cold  cornmeal  mush  into  slices  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  fry  on  both  sides  in  boiling  pork  fat  or  butter.  Or, 
dip  each  slice  into  beaten  eggs  (salted),  then  into  bread  or  cracker 
crumbs,  and  fry.  If  fried  in  lard  add  a  little  salt. 

OATMEAL  MUSH  is  made  the  same  as  cornmeal  mush,  but  must 
always  be  sprinkled  dry  into  the  pot  of  boiling  water. 

BATTER  CAKES. — Put  one  quart  of  sifted  flour  in  a  deep  dish,  and 
mix  with  it  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Add  warm  water 
(milk  is  better)  sufficient  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Then  add  two 
eggs,  beaten  light,  and  if  they  do  not  thin  down  the  batter  suffi- 
ciently, add  more  water  (or  milk).  Beat  thoroughly  and  cook  im- 
mediately the  same  as  slapjacks. 

SLAPJACKS. — To  properly  cook  slapjacks  the  frying-pan  should  be 
perfectly  clean  and  smooth  inside.  If  it  is  not,  too  much  grease  is 
required  in  cooking.  Scrape  it  after  each  panful  is  cooked,  and  then 
only  occasional  greasing  will  be  required,  and  this  is  best  done  with 
a  clean  rag  containing  butter.  Drop  thin  batter  in  with  a  spoon,  so 
that  the  cake  will  be  very  thin.  Disturb  it  as  little  as  possible,  and 
when  the  cake  is  cooked  firm  on  one  side,  turn  it  and  cook  on  the 
other. 

CORNMEAL  SLAPJACKS. — One  quart  of  cold  water  is  mixed  with 
meal  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one 
or  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  having  been  stirred  into  the 

222 


THE    BILL    OF   FARE 


latter.  The  addition  of  one  or  two  well-beaten  eggs  will  improve 
it.  Cook  on  a  very  hot  pan,  as  above. 

HECKER'S  FLOUR  SLAPJACKS. — Mix  well  one  pint  of  Hecker's 
prepared  flour  with  one-half  pint  of  cold  milk  or  water.  Cook  as 
above. 

CRACKED  WHEAT. — To  one  quart  of  the  wheat  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  soak  overnight  in  cold  water  enough  to  cover  it. 
In  the  morning  put  the  wheat  with  the  water  it  was  soaked  in  into 
a  pot,  cover  closely  and  cook  gently  until  soft — probably  from 
one  to  one  and  one-half  hours  —  stirring  frequently  to  prevent 
scorching.  When  necessary  to  replenish  the  water  add  boiling 
water. 

UNLEAVENED  BREAD. — This  is  the  kind  almost  wholly  used  by 
coasting  vessels,  and  is  cooked  in  a  frying-pan,  even  when  there  is  a 
galley-stove  with  a  good  hot  oven  on  board  the  vessel.  The  dough 
is  mixed  up  with  a  quart  of  wheat  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  lard,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  sufficient  water  to  make  it  stiff.  It  is  then 
beaten  or  hammered  lustily  on  a  board  or  smooth  log  until  it  becomes 
elastic.  When  cut  up  into  biscuits  it  can  be  baked  in  the  portable 
oven  among  the  coals.  It  is  called  "Maryland  Biscuit"  along  the 
Potomac  and  Chesapeake. 

Eggs 

FRIED  AND  BOILED  EGGS  are  so  easy  to  prepare  that  no  instruction 
is  necessary  in  these  familiar  methods  of  cooking  them. 

POACHED  EGGS. — Into  a  frying-pan  nearly  full  of  boiling  water 
containing  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  slip  carefully  the  eggs  one  by  one, 
breaking  each  previously  into  a  cup.  Keep  them  on  the  surface  of 
the  water,  if  possible,  and  boil  gently  three  or  four  minutes,  dipping 
up  some  of  the  water  with  a  spoon  and  pouring  it  over  the  tops  of 
the  eggs.  Serve  on  toast. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  cup  to  insure  their  fresh- 
ness, and  throw  them  into  the  frying-pan  with  a  lump  of  butter 
and  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  over  a  fire  of  coals  until  they  are  almost 
hard.  Do  not  break  the  yolks  at  first. 

"Frizzled  Beef,  etc. 

FRIZZLED  BEEF. — Chipped  beef  comes  in  glass  jars  hermetically 
sealed  and  in  small  one-pound  boxes.  This  makes  a  very  good  food, 

15  223 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


and  it  may  be  eaten  as  sandwiches  or  it  may  be  frizzled  or  fried  in 
butter.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  make  a  flour-and-butter  gravy,  as  has 
been  described,  to  pour  over  it,  on  account  of  the  thirst  that  it  will 
cause. 

WELSH  RAREBIT. — Cut  bread  into  slices  about  one  inch  in  thick- 
ness, and  pare  off  the  crust.  Toast  the  slices  slightly  without 
hardening  or  burning,  and  spread  with  butter;  cut  slices  of  cheese 
not  quite  as  large  as  the  bread,  lay  it  on  the  bread,  and  toast  all  over 
the  fire  on  a  broiler.  Be  careful  that  the  cheese  does  not  burn, 
and  let  it  be  equally  melted.  Spread  over  the  top  a  little  mus- 
tard already  prepared  and  seasoning  of  pepper,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Welsh  rarebit  may  be  obtained  already  prepared  in  cans  which 
merely  require  heating. 

HASH. — Chop  up  some  fish,  meat,  or  game  with  potatoes  and 
onions.  Mix  carefully;  have  the  frying-pan  piping  hot,  put  in 
enough  lard  or  butter  to  cover  the  bottom.  By  placing  the  hash 
on  this  hot  surface  and  quickly  turning  it,  it  will  be  nicely 
browned. 

CORNED-BEEF  HASH  requires  but  little  salt  in  seasoning. 

PORK  AND  BEANS. — The  right  proportions  are  two  quarts  of  beans 
to  three  pounds  of  pork.  Pick  over  the  beans  at  night,  wash  them, 
and  put  them  to  soak  in  cold  water  until  the  next  morning.  Then, 
if  only  boiled  pork  and  beans  are  desired,  drain  the  beans  and  put 
them  with  the  pork  in  the  pot,  just  cover  with  cold  water,  set  over 
the  fire  (with  the  cover  on  the  pot),  and  boil  till  the  beans  are  tender, 
skimming  the  scum  off  as  it  rises.  If  baked  beans  are  wanted,  par- 
boil the  pork  and  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  then  drain  the  beans  and  boil 
as  above.  Put  half  the  beans  into  the  bake-kettle,  then  the  pork, 
then  the  remainder  of  the  beans,  and  pour  over  them  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water.  Bake  among  the  coals  till  the  top  is  crusted  brown. 
If  buried  in  the  ground,  with  a  good  supply  of  coals,  it  is  best  to  put 
them  in  at  night  when  going  to  bed,  and  they  will  be  done  in  the 
morning.  If  the  bake-kettle  is  enveloped  in  hot  coals  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  they  will  bake  on  the  outside  quicker,  but 
inside,  where  the  pork  is,  they  will  not  be  baked  at  all.  This 
latter  method,  therefore,  should  only  be  used  when  in  a  hurry,  and 
in  this  case  the  pork  should  be  scattered  around  in  different  por- 
tions of  the  pot,  and  the  beans  left  may  be  rebaked  for  another 
meal. 

224 


THE   BILL   OF   FARE 


Padding 

CORN-STARCH  PUDDING. — Dissolve  three  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch  in  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  add  two  eggs  beaten  light,  and  a 
small  pinch  of  salt.  Heat  three  pints  of  milk  nearly  to  boiling,  mix 
all  together,  and  boil  four  minutes,  constantly  stirring.  Dip  a  cup 
or  basin  in  cold  water  to  cool  it,  and  turn  into  it  the  pudding,  which 
should  be  eaten  with  sugar  and  milk  when  it  is  cold. 


Practical  Hints 

Broil  before  a  fire,  not  over  it,  because  juices  of  the  meat 
can  be  caught  and  used  as  a  dressing,  while  in  the  latter 
manner  they  are  lost  in  the  fire  and  tend  to  give  a  smoky 
flavor  by  their  ignition.  In  broiling,  the  article  should  be 
turned  frequently. 

FRYING. — The  lard  or  fat  used  for  frying  should  always 
be  very  hot  before  the  article  to  be  cooked  is  put  in.  If 
little  jets  of  smoke  issue  from  the  top  of  the  fat,  it  is  hot 
enough.  If  the  fat  is  insufficiently  hot,  anything  cooked  in 
it  will  taste  of  the  grease,  while  the  moment  a  substance  is 
dropped  into  fat  at  a  great  heat  the  exterior  pores  are 
closed  and  no  grease  penetrates  it. 

MIXING  INGREDIENTS. — Preciseness  in  the  preparation  of 
ingredients  is  an  important  element  of  success  in  cooking. 
Guessing  at  proportions  is  the  practice  of  the  lazy  or  in- 
different cook. 

NEW  IRON  POTS. — Boil  a  handful  of  grass  in  a  new  iron 
pot,  then  scrub  it  inside  with  soap  and  sand,  fill  it  with 
clean  water  and  let  this  boil  half  an  hour.  It  is  then  ready 
to  use  for  cooking. 

225 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


TABLE  OP  APPROXIMATE  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.— 
The  following  table  may  be  of  use.  It  is  near  enough  to  ac- 
curacy for  cooking  purposes: 

Three  teaspoonfuls — One  tablespoonful. 

Four  tablespoonfuls — One  wine  glass. 

Two  wine  glasses — One  gill. 

Two  gills — One  tumbler  or  cup. 

Two  cupfuls — One  pint. 

One  quart  sifted  flour — One  pound. 

One  quart  powdered  sugar — One  pound  seven  ounces. 

One  quart  granulated  sugar — One  pound  nine  ounces. 

One  pint  closely  packed  butter — One  pound. 

Three  cupfuls  sugar — One  pound. 

Five  cupfuls  sifted  flour — One  pound. 

One  tablespoonful  salt — One  ounce. 

Seven  tablespoonfuls  granulated  sugar — One-half  pint. 

Twelve  tablespoonfuls  flour — One  pint. 

Three  coffee  cupfuls — One  quart. 

Ten  eggs — One  pound. 

YEAST. — A  serviceable  yeast  for  leavening  bread  may  be 
made  by  mixing  flour  and  cold  water  into  a  thin  batter.  Set 
it  away  in  a  bottle  until  it  sours,  when  it  is  ready  for  use 

It  adds  greatly  to  the  comfort  with  which  a  meal  may  be 
enjoyed  to  have  some  form  of  din  ing- table.  This  may  be 
an  overturned  box,  a  hewed-off  log,  or  a  piece  of  canvas 
stretched  out.  A  camp- table  may  be  readily  thrown  to- 
gether of  two  or  three  boards  placed  over  a  stump  or  on 

226 


THE    BILL   OF   FARE 


stakes  driven  in  the  ground.  Connect  the  end-stakes  with 
cross-pieces  and  lay  planks  from  one  cross-piece  to  another. 
Make  it  high  enough  to  get  the  legs  and  feet  under  com- 
I  fortably  When  sitting  on  the  ground.  Build  it  away  from 
the  fire. 

DON'T  FORGET — 

To  put  on  dish-water  before  sitting  down  to  eat. 
A  sponge  or  old  cloth  may  be  used  for  a  dish-rag.     Have 

sand  or  Sapolio  for  scrubbing  out  cooking-dishes. 
Throw  on  a  few  sticks  of  wood  before  sitting  down  to 

eat. 
Remove  the  frying-pan  from  the  neighborhood  of  the 

fire. 
Put  the  match-box  back  in  your  pocket. 

And  be  sure,  if  the  weather  has  been  damp  or  you  have 
been  overboard,  that  no  damp  clothing  is  where  it  will  burn. 

AND  Now — 

Fall  to  with  a  good  appetite! 


Chapter   XVI 

KEEPING   A   CAMP   CLEAN 

F)ERHAPS  the  most  serious  problem  that  presents  itself 
1  to  the  director  of  a  boys'  camp  is  that  of  solving  the 
sanitation  question. 

Health  is  largely  dependent  upon  absolute  cleanliness. 
Where  a  number  of  persons  are  living  closely  together  the 
constant  and  unremitting  care  of  food,  kitchens,  milk-cans, 
meat  -  blocks,  sinks,  knives  and  saws,  waste  -  pipes,  damp 
drain  -  spouts,  cesspools,  and  the  cleanliness  of  the  cooks 
themselves,  are  of  utmost  importance.  The  latrines  or  toilets 
must  be  considered  by  themselves. 

KITCHENS  AND  FOOD. — After  a  meal  there  should  never 
be  any  food  left  about  uncovered  or  unscreened,  as  it  attracts 
flies.  Boxes  or  store-rooms  are  best  screened,  but  in  my 
experience  it  has  not  always  seemed  wise  to  screen  the  entire 
kitchen  unless  it  is  a  spot  where  no  breeze  can  blow  through 
it.  Screening  causes  dark  corners  and  permits  the  over- 
looking of  scraps  of  food  or  dirt ;  it  also  keeps  out  the  breeze, 
which  is  of  vast  importance  in  summer  kitchens,  both  for 
keeping  the  temperature  down  and  keeping  flies  and  mos- 
quitoes out. 

The  garbage-cans  should  be  emptied  twice  daily,  and  the 

228 


KEEPING   A    CAMP   CLEAN 


cans  washed  out  with  lime-water  and  hot  soap-suds.  A 
convenient  way  to  dispose  of  garbage  is  to  either  sell  it 
or  give  it  away  to  a  farmer.  He  will  be  glad  to  have 
it  for  pigs.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  the  small  scraps  may 
be  burned  in  the  stove  and  the  larger  amounts  disposed  of 
as  follows:  Dig  a  well  about  six  feet  deep  and  two  feet  in 
diameter;  fill  this  with  stones  loosely  up  to  about  two  feet 
of  the  surface.  In  the  opening  thus  left  place  a  pail  with  a 
wire  bottom,  a  gunny -sack,  or  a  piece  of  canvas  sewed 
around  a  barrel  hoop  and  perforated  with  holes.  The  waste 
water  may  be  poured  into  this  and  the  solid  materials 
which  are  sifted  out  should  be  burned  or  buried  with  lime. 
The  liquids  will  run  away  and  disappear.  Sandy  soil  is 
better  for  this  purpose  than  clay  or  coarse  loam.  If  the  dis- 
charge from  a  kitchen  sink  makes  the  ground  soggy,  cover 
it  at  once  with  sand  and  direct  the  dishwater  in  another 
direction. 

Milk-cans  should  be  thoroughly  washed,  scoured,  and 
turned  upside  down  in  sunlight  and  air.  They  should  al- 
ways be  large  enough  at  their  mouths  to  permit  the  entrance 
of  hands  for  scrubbing.  For  this  reason  demijohns  do  not 
make  good  milk  receptacles.  I  have  tried  all  forms  and 
found  the  heavy  tin,  large-mouthed  cans  best.  Milk  will 
sour  very  quickly  when  poured  into  cans  that  are  the 
slightest  bit  foul.  It  will  also  sour  if  chilled,  permitted  to 
become  warm,  and  chilled  again. 

Fish,  meat,  and  strong  food  like  cheese,  onions,  etc., 
should  not  be  placed  in  the  same  refrigerator  with  milk. 
It  will  absorb  various  odors  very  quickly. 

All  floors,  meat -blocks,  carving  -  tables,  serving  -  tables, 

229 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


shelves,  refrigerators,  and  food -lockers  should  be  scoured 
at  least  once  a  week  with  boiling  water  and  sand  soap — 
twice  a  week  in  very  hot  weather.  Be  careful  not  to  spill 
soup,  milk,  or  the  like,  and  if  this  happens  wipe  it  up  at 
once. 

Dish-washing  is  one  of  the  most  important  parts  of  kitchen 
sanitation.  Plenty  of  hot  water,  soap,  and  clean,  fresh,  dry 
dish-towels  must  be  provided. 

COOKS. — Cooks  must  be  clean  in  their  habits  and  bathe 
frequently.  A  daily  bath  in  the  morning  before  the  day's 
work  is  begun  will  keep  many  a  cook  in  good  health,  and  a 
more  important  thing — good  spirits.  He  should  also  be 
free  from  disease  in  any  form.  Be  assured  of  this  by  a 
physician  if  in  doubt.  Look  out  for  any  marks  of  drunk- 
enness or  moral  or  physical  taint.  A  man  to  live  in  a 
boys'  camp,  where  there  must  necessarily  be  some  contact, 
should  be  pure-minded  and  free  from  profanity. 

The  same  care  of  the  dining-room  should  be  observed  as 
to  scrupulous  cleanliness. 

LATRINES. — The  latrines  or  toilets  are  all  too  frequently 
a  source  of  menace  in  a  boys'  camp.  There  are  several 
methods  of  disposing  of  the  excreta.  The  army  method  of 
digging  a  trench,  throwing  the  dirt  back  of  it,  and  gradually 
filling  it  in  is  commonly  employed.  Another  and  fairly 
satisfactory  way  is  to  cover  the  deposit  daily  with  lime 
chloride  sprinkled  from  cans  with  sifting  tops.  In  one 
camp  I  tried  the  Japanese  army  method  of  each  day  spread- 
ing clean  straw  in  the  pit  and  each  evening  saturating  with 
coal-oil  or  gasoline,  and  burning.  This  is  fairly  satisfactory, 
but  the  odor  of  burning  straw  and  kerosene  is  very  unpleas- 

230 


KEEPING   A   CAMP   CLEAN 


int.  The  ideal  way  is  to  have  deep  tanks  or  iron  pails, 
Dne  for  each  seat,  in  which  the  excreta  is  deposited.  These 
tanks  or  pails  are  taken  every  morning  at  daylight  away 
from  camp,  a  mile  or  more,  and  buried  in  a  deep  pit.  The 
pits  are  covered  with  lime  chloride  or  earth  until  full.  The 
,sod,  which  has  previously  been  carefully  removed,  is  now 
replaced,  and  a  new  pit  dug.  The  pails  or  tanks  are  washed 
with  sand  and  hot  water  or  lime-water  until  perfectly  clean. 
This  method  is  beyond  criticism. 

There  should  always  be  separate  receptacles  for  water 
and  fasces.  Pits  may  be  dug  for  the  former  four  or  five  feet 
deep  and  filled  in  with  small  stones  for  one  foot.  Sawdust 
or  fine  sand  may  be  placed  on  top.  There  will  be  scarcely 
any  odor.  Pine  needles  are  still  better.  There  should  be 
day  and  night  pits  for  this  purpose.  A  lantern  should  be 
placed  at  night  by  both  latrines  and  urine  pits.  When  a  pit 
becomes  foul  it  should  be  filled  in  with  stones  or  sand,  and 
another  dug. 

On  trips  away  from  camp  with  small  parties  the  leader 
should  designate  a  spot  for  the  latrine  at  each  stopping-place. 
This  and  no  other  should  be  used.  The  same  general  methods 
may  be  employed  as  in  the  main  camps. 

Whatever  form  of  disposing  of  this  most  important  ques- 
tion is  adopted,  one  thing  should  always  be  uppermost  in 
the  director's  mind — the  danger  of  mosquitoes  or  flies 
transferring  infection  to  the  kitchen  or  the  persons  of  the 
campers.  It  is  now  recognized  by  medical  experts  that  flies 
are  a  great  source  of  danger  in  transferring  disease.  The 
latrine  should  be  made  as  nearly  fly-proof  as  possible.  Tack- 
ing cloth  around  the  seats  will  sometimes  do  this.  Fly- 

231 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


paper  will  help,  and  any  other  method  that  the  ingenuity 
or  skill  of  the  director  can  devise  will  aid  to  safeguard  the 
health  of  those  intrusted  to  his  care. 

LAUNDRY  AND  CLEAN  CLOTHES. — Boys  are  liable  to  be 
very  careless  about  their  underclothing,  stockings,  and  jer- 
seys unless  watched.  It  is  wise  to  have  an  older  boy  or 
counsellor  tolled  off  to  go  about  on  Saturday  night  or  Sunday 
morning  and  collect  the  soiled  clothing.  He  should  be  sure 
that  each  boy  delivers  to  him  a  pair  of  pajamas,  underwear, 
and  socks  and  stockings.  Their  plain  marking  by  name  or 
number  is  absolutely  necessary.  Boys  will  at  times  be  care- 
less about  completely  undressing  and  getting  into  pajamas. 
This  should  be  promptly  looked  after  by  the  counsellor  in 
charge. 

I  was  called  to  see  a  peculiar  case  of  skin  disease  in  a  boys' 
camp  at  one  time  which  had  resisted  the  treatment  of  the 
local  physician.  The  boy  was  wearing  a  red  swimming- 
shirt  which,  it  was  found  upon  investigation,  had  not  been 
washed  for  six  weeks  and  had  been  worn  day  and  night. 
Washing  it  and  a  soap  bath  for  the  boy  cured  his  skin 
trouble. 

POLICING  CAMPS. l — Barrels  or  boxes  should  be  placed  about 
for  candy-boxes,  papers,  old  shoes,  belts,  and  discarded  litter 
generally.  Into  these  all  material  should  be  thrown  and  the 
camp-grounds  kept  as  clean  all  the  time  as  a  gentleman's 
lawn.  There  should  also  be  appointed  a  ''white -wing 
squad,"  to  empty  these  barrels  and  pick  up  carelessly 
dropped  odds  and  ends.  They  may  be  emptied  into  the  fire 
or  into  pits  and  burned,  but  should  never  be  dumped  back  of 

military  term  for  cleaning  up  a  camp. 
232 


KEEPING   A   CAMP   CLEAN 


buildings  or  into  clumps  of  bushes.  They  will  attract  flies 
and  rats  and  other  vermin. 

TENT  HYGIENE. — Tent  floors  are  frequently  the  store- 
house for  candy,  cake,  and  cracker  boxes.  This  should  not 
be  permitted  for  the  same  reasons  as  given  above,  and  the 
counsellor  in  charge  should  see  that  nothing  is  under  the 
floors. 

Tent  "  spreads  "  and  "feeds"  are  bad  hygiene,  as  the  food 
attracts  flies  and  other  pests  and  also  overloads  boys' 
stomachs. 

A  tent  will  grow  musty  and  its  contents  stale  very  quickly 
in  damp  weather  or  if  closed  up.  Consequently,  the  end 
and  side  flaps  should  be  opened  early  on  sunshiny  days,  and 
wind  and  air  permitted  to  circulate  fully. 

Trunks  should  be  opened  every  two  weeks,  the  trays 
taken  out,  and  the  contents  exposed  to  air  and  sunlight. 
Otherwise  clothing  will  readily  mildew  and  leather  will  rot. 

Damp  bathing-suits  and  towels  must  be  hung  on  guy 
ropes.  Mattresses  are  to  be  turned  daily,  and,  unless  it  is 
rainy  or  foggy,  blankets  must  be  hung  out  on  a  line  pro- 
vided for  that  purpose.  This  should  be  compulsory.  An 
inspector  may  be  provided  for  this  purpose  who  makes 
rounds  to  see  that  it  is  carried  out. 


Chapter  XVII 

HOW  TO  USE  A  CANOE 

BEARING  in  mind  the  many  varieties  of  nomenclatui 
that  we  now  have  in  the  out-of-door  world,  such 
aircraft,  icecraft,  water-craft,   plainscraft,  etc.,  I  shall  use 
two  generic  terms— woodcraft  and  campcraft,  or  camper- 
craft — because  we  shall  here  consider  two  conditions. 

First,  there  is  the  boy  living  in  an  organized  camp  hav- 
ing meals  cooked  and  served  for  him,  with  a  boathouse,  a 
dock  for  landing,  a  place  for  housing  his  canoe,  a  cabin, 
bungalow,  or  tent  with  a  cot  or  bunk  ready  to  tumble  in 
at  night — a  constant  and  ready  shelter  from  sudden  storm. 

Secondly,  there  is  the  boy  who  makes  trips  away  from 
the  main  camp  where  he  will  choose  his  own  camping-place, 
erect  a  tent  or  lean-to,  build  a  fire,  cook,  and  cut  wood. 
He  must  know  on  these  trips  how  to  equip  a  canoe,  how 
to  pack  and  care  for  it,  how  to  paddle,  how  to  land  and 
launch  these  frail  and  silent  Indian  craft,  and  how  to  police 
camps. 

If  he  is  going  on  a  hike  or  tramp  he,  of  course,  will  be 
fitted  out  very  differently  than  for  a  canoe  trip.  He  must 
know  how  to  care  for  his  feet,  what  sort  of  shoes  and  socks 
to  wear,  and  what  to  take.  The  arrangement  of  a  blanket 

234 


HOW   TO   USE   A   CANOE 


'or  transportation  on  a  hike  is  very  different  from  that  on 
i  canoe  trip. 

Canoes  and  Their  Cost 

Canoes  are  made  of  various  materials.  The  kind  of  voy- 
kge  intended  will  determine  the  variety  of  canoe.  Any 
panoe  under  sixteen  feet  is  a  dangerous  affair,  and  should 
be  used  only  by  an  expert.  Its  short  length  does  not 
[permit  of  sufficient  beam  for  any  stability. 

The  canvas-covered  canoe  is  the  one  most  frequently 
psed,  and  with  care  in  landing  and  a  lookout  for  nails  in 
jhauling  over  dams,  stumps,  and  sharp  sticks  on  beaches, 
fsuch  a  canoe  should  last  for  years.  The  canoes  manu- 
factured by  the  Old  Town  Canoe  Company  of  Old  Town, 
:Maine,  or  by  the  Racine  Boat  Company  of  Racine,  Wis- 
;consin,  are  good  examples.  A  sixteen -foot  canoe  costs 
jabout  $35.  The  wooden  canoe  is  made  of  cedar,  usually 
with  oak  ribs  and  combings.  If  it  is  to  be  used  as  a  sailing 
jcanoe  it  is  generally  decked  over,  having  a  small  cockpit. 
;This  naturally  increases  its  safety  in  rough  water.  These 
canoes  cost  from  $65  to  $150,  according  to  nickel  fittings. 

In  the  Canadian  rivers,  lakes,  and  some  parts  of  Maine, 
(where  a  few  Indians  live,  there  will  still  appear  the  frail, 
I  graceful,  birch-bark  canoe.  They  are  light  and  easy  to 
tpaddle  when  not  going  against  the  wind.  I  have  pur- 
t  chased  an  eighteen -foot  canoe  for  $15  and  sold  it  at  $10 
when  I  came  out  of  the  woods. 

A  birch-bark  canoe  is  easily  injured,  and  the  seams  need 
attention  every  night  on  landing  if  the  paddling  is  done  in 
a  river  where  sandy  shallows  or  rocks  scrape  the  bottom, 

235 


HOW   TO   USE   A   CANOE 


Repairing  a  Canoe 

To  mend  a  tear  or  rip  in  a  canvas  or  bark  canoe,  or 
tighten  up  the  seams,  there  is  a  gumlike  substance  that 
can  be  purchased  at  any  outfitter's  which  when  heated  forms 
a  waxlike  covering  over  the  opening  which  is  watertight. 
The  Indians  melt  a  little  pitch  and  rosin  in  an  iron  pot  and 
[smear  it  on  with  a  stick.  I  have  camped  with  Indians  who 
'carry  a  small  pot  full  for  that  purpose  tucked  up  in  the  bow 
of  the  canoe.  Adhesive  tape  will  also  mend  a  canoe,  and 
isurgeon's  plaster  will  answer  this  purpose.  Beeswax  will 
stop  leaks. 

How  to  Paddle 

To  paddle  a  canoe  needs  a  little  practice  and  understand- 
ing of  its  ways.  Never  push  out  from  shore  and  then  at- 
i tempt  to  jump  in,  as  you  might  do  in  a  rowboat.  Have 
the  canoe  afloat  beside  a  rock,  if  possible,  or  let  the  bow 
^merely  touch  the  sand;  then  step  lightly  in — do  not  jump 
—and  if  two  are  going,  the  sternman  sits  or  kneels  down, 
[steadying  the  canoe  by  holding  to  a  branch  or  rock,  or,  if 
he  desires  to  steady  the  boat  by  his  paddle,  always  reverse 
ends,  and  let  the  handle  bear  the  weight.  The  blade  is  very 
•easily  cracked  by  pushing  against  stones  or  sand.  A 
[broken  paddle  a  hundred  miles  from  home  may  be  a  severe 
[handicap. 

The  bowman  now  steps  in  and  sits  down  at  once,  and 
fif  the  sternman  has  not  floated  the  canoe,  he  assists  him 
Jin  so  doing,  using  the  handle  of  his  paddle  in  pushing 
put. 

237 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


In  loading  a  canoe  always  be  careful  to  ballast  it  "by 
the  stern."  The  heavier  man  must  always  paddle  stern. 

In  paddling,  the  sternman  steers.  This  is  accomplished 
by  twisting  the  paddle,  as  it  is  drawn  back  in  the  stroke, 
until  by  a  sweeping,  circular  motion  outward  the  blade  is 
parallel  to  the  boat.  This  is  in  straightaway  paddling  to 
keep  the  boat  in  a  direct  path.  Of  course,  in  turning  the 
canoe's  head  in  another  direction  the  motion  is  reversed. 
In  steering  it  is  very  rarely  advisable  to  change  the  paddle 
from  side  to  side.  This  marks  a  novice  at  once.  Two 
canoeists  adapt  themselves  very  readily  to  each  other's 
strokes  after  a  short  time.  If  things  do  not  go  smoothly 
for  the  first  mile  do  not  be  discouraged,  for  the  second  one 
is  sure  to  go  better.  Canoeists  drop  into  a  regular  stride 
with  a  sweeping,  steady  motion,  just  as  a  pedestrian  does 
in  walking.  The  novice  will  make  the  mistake  of  beginning 
his  day  by  paddling  as  though  his  life  depended  on  covering 
a  certain  distance  in  a  given  time.  He  will  soon  tire  or 
get  a  very  painful  shoulder  wliich  corresponds  to  the  neuritis, 
with  which  violin-players  become  affected  at  times.  Begin 
slowly  and  paddle  comfortably.  It  is  good  form  to  keep 
the  arms  as  straight  as  can  readily  be  done.  This  will 
depend  somewhat  on  the  length  of  arms  and  the  position 
of  the  paddler.  At  the  end  of  the  stroke  the  upper  arm 
should  always  be  straight.  In  rough  water  use  short, 
snappy  strokes,  recovering  as  quickly  as  possible.  Bear  in 
mind  that  a  canoe  usually  upsets  while  the  paddle  is  out 
of  water.  The  bad  name  that  canoes  have  as  to  "tippi- 
ness"  is  undeserved  if  any  sort  of  care  and  judgment  is 
exercised  in  their  management.  In  fifteen  years'  experi- 

238 


HOW   TO   USE   A   CANOE 


ence  with  these  boats  on  lakes  and  rivers  of  all  sizes,  as  well 
as  on  the  ocean,  I  have  never  had  a  spill,  and  have  seen  but 
two.  One  occurred  at  a  small  Maine  lake  on  a  perfectly 
calm,  still  day.  A  young  man  was  reading  in  one  end  of 
the  canoe  and  dropped  his  book,  forgot  that  he  was  in  a 
canoe,  reached  suddenly  for  it,  and  got  a  swim.  The  second 
was  more  serious.  Two  young  men  went  fishing  in  a  seven- 
teen-foot canoe  on  a  rough  day  and  lay  broadside  to  the 
waves.  A  steamer's  wash  made  a  sea  that  no  canoe  could 
stand.  They  swam  to  within  fifty  feet  of  shore,  holding  to 
the  canoe,  then  released  their  hold,  tried  to  swim  in,  and 
one  never  reached  the  shore.  Had  he  retained  his  hold  on 
the  canoe  he  would  have  been  saved.  It  is  a  good  gen- 
eral rule  to  make,  never  to  abandon  a  capsized  boat  or  canoe 
until  help  conies  or  the  feet  can  touch  bottom.  A  boy  can 
retain  his  hold  on  a  boat  almost  indefinitely  if  the  water  is 
not  too  cold,  while  but  few  boys  can  swim  more  than  one- 
half  mile,  particularly  if  frightened. 

Equipment 

Paddles  should  be  six  feet  long  for  a  boy  five  feet  and 
eight  inches  or  over  in  height;  and  five  feet  and  six  inches 
to  five  feet  and  eight  inches  for  a  boy  under  that.  The 
bowman  always  has  the  shorter  paddle.  They  should 
always  be  varnished,  since  this  makes  them  shed  water  bet- 
ter and  keep  longer.  .The  best  ones  are  spruce  or  maple. 
Be  sure  that  the  wood  is  seasoned.  The  Canadian  Indians 
use  hard  wood  (oak  or  ash)  paddles  as  they  pole  a  great  deal. 
They  are  strong  but  clumsy  and  heavy.  Bird's-eye  maple 
16  239 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


makes  beautiful  paddles,  but  they  are  more  expensive. 
Double-ended  paddles  are  only  for  fancy  work  around  a 
boat-club  dock,  and  no  real  woodsman  ever  uses  one.  The 
cost  of  paddles  is  as  follows : 

First  quality — spruce  or  maple  .  .  $1.50 
Second  quality — spruce  or  maple  .  .  $  i .  oo 
Bird's-eye  maple,  selected  ....  $2.50-13.00 

Back  rests  and  folding-slat  canoe  chairs  are  comfortable 
for  a  passenger,  but  they  are  not  needed  for  a  trip  where 
boys  do  their  own  paddling.  They  cost  from  $i  to  $2.50. 

For  sailing  a  canoe  a  lateen  sail  is  used  with  lee  boards 
over  the  side.  The  outfit  would  cost  approximately: 

Mast  and  step $1.50 

Lee  boards .     .     .     6.00 

Sail  (50  feet  area) 8.50 


$16.00 

Sponson  canoes  have  air  chambers  along  both  sides, 
making  it  impossible  to  sink,  and  difficult  to  capsize.  They 
will  support  three  adults  sitting  on  the  rail  without  cap- 
sizing. 

They  are,  however,  not  so  easy  to  paddle,  and  much  heavier. 

Loading 

Put  your  axe,  fire-irons,  collapsible  .stove,  and  other  heavy 
articles  in  the  middle  of  the  canoe.  They  keep  the  ballast, 
and  act  as  stringers  on  which  to  place  weight.  Roll  or  fold 
the  tent  as  tightly  as  strength  can  do  it;  lay  it  lengthwise 

240 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


fore  and  aft.  Put  your  cooking  dishes  in  a  small  box,  and  slip 
it  under  the  seat  in  the  bow.  This  will  keep  them  together 
and  not  get  smut  all  over  the  other  things,  including  your  fine 
cedar  flooring.  The  best  thing  that  I  have  ever  found  for 
carrying  dishes,  knives,  forks,  spoons,  is  a  tin  cake  -  box. 
These  boxes  can  be  purchased  in  any  department  store 
for  at  least  twenty -five  cents,  and  are  watertight,  com- 
pact, convenient,  and  make  excellent  receptacles.  The 
square  kind  about  i  J  feet  long  are  best.  In  such  a  box  also 
put  such  odds  and  ends  as  mustard,  pepper  and  salt,  bread, 
crackers,  cheese,  and  any  food  that  water  or  sun  will  spoil. 
The  lid  will  shut  tightly  and  has  a  clasp.  Put  it  under  your 
stern  seat. 

Reserve  the  small  6  or  7  inch  decked-over  places  in  the 
bow  and  stern  for  the  sweater,  coat,  or  shirt.  This  will  keep 
them  dry  until  you  need  them.  The  feet  will  often  tire  in  an 
all-day  grind,  and  paddling  in  stocking-feet  is  often  a  relief. 

Rough  Water 

In  rough  water  keep  the  paddle  moving  in  the  water  as 
much  as  possible,  and  minimize  the  amount  of  time  that 
it  is  in  the  air.  Keep  the  boat  ends  on  to  the  waves  either 
going  to  windward  or  running  before  them.  In  whirlpools 
and  rapids  let  the  bowman  paddle  and  the  sternman  keep 
his  paddle  in  the  water  to  act  as  a  rudder,  ready  at  any 
moment  to  swing  to  avoid  a  rock  or  hidden  danger.  In 
going  up  a  rapid  rocky  stream  use  a  pole  and  push  up;  do 
not  attempt  to  paddle.  If  a  steamer  passes  near,  even  on 
a  still  day,  point  the  canoe's  nose  toward  the  waves  raised. 

242 


HOW   TO   USE   A   CANOE 


A  well-ballasted  canoe  is  always  safer  than  one  lightly  loaded, 
and  is  more  buoyant  the  lower  the  centre  of  gravity  is 
placed.  In  other  words,  a  canoe  with  its  occupant  sitting 
or  kneeling  in  the  bottom  is  much  safer  than  one  with  the 
crew  sitting  on  the  seats  or  thwarts.  If  alone,  put  a  weight 
in  the  bow  and  paddle  from  the  centre  of  the  canoe.  With 
a  man  and  a  sack  or  two  of  flour  and  camp  duffle  resting  in 
the  middle,  besides  the  paddlers  in  either  end  of  a  seventeen- 
foot  canoe,  an  almost  unbelievable  amount  of  heavy  sea 
will  be  weathered.  I  have  seen  Big  Thunder,  chief  of  the 
Old  Town  Indians,  in  a  birch-bark  canoe  outside  Mt.  Desert 
Island  in  a  blow  riding  the  waves  like  a  sea-gull.  So  be 
light  of  foot,  steady  of  hand,  strong  of  arm,  and  wary  in 
judgment  in  your  canoe.  It  will  carry  you  silently  and 
swiftly  "along  the  listening  woodland" — the  very  embodi- 
ment of  its  savage  maker. 


Chapter  XVIII 

MAKING   A  TEMPORARY   CAMP 

HAVING  now  learned  how  to  paddle  a  canoe,  how  to 
pack  and  equip  it,  how  to  erect  a  tent,  and  lay  the 
bed,  suppose   we   paddle   along   shore   to   some   small,  at- 
tractive island  and  see  how  one  would  go  about  "making 
camp." 

Comfort  in  a  woodland  camp  does  not  consist  in  having 
a  number  of  patent  contrivances,  and  collapsible  beds, 
cushions  and  chairs,  but  rather  in  taking  the  abundance 
that  Nature  offers  and  adapting  it  to  answer  needs.  An 
hour  of  intelligent  work  will  transform  a  wild  piece  of  wood- 
land into  a  home  that  looks  and  seems  and  feels  like  home. 
It  is  astonishing  how  true  this  is.  Looking  back  ten  years, 
I  recall  with  tender  memories  a  certain  brush-house  where, 
with  two  companions,  I  spent  a  week  on  a  Maine  island. 
It  was  a  lonely  place,  without  fresh  water,  and  the  tide  went 
out  over  flats  for  a  half-mile.  Because  we  constructed  it 
ourselves  it  seemed  "homey"  when  the  camp-fire  gleamed 
between  the  great  rocks.  And  then  the  matter  of  that 
camp-fire!  It  will  pay  to  take  time  and  trouble  to  con- 
struct a  carefully  built  fireplace,  or  to  secure  a  back  log 
and  plenty  of  wood.  It  is  the  wilderness  hearthstone— 

244 


MAKING   A   TEMPORARY   CAMP 

the  place  that  draws  the  group  around  it,  and  from  which 
most  of  the  comfort  comes. 

Paddle  the  canoe  gently  to  the  beach,  selecting  a  large  rock, 
or  fallen  tree  which  offers  the  best  landing  place.  Never 
paddle  a  canoe  upon  a  beach  with  any  force,  as  would  be 
done  with  a  boat.  When  the  f ending-iron  touches,  the  bow- 
man puts  his  paddle  carefully  into  the  canoe.  Do  not  throw 
it  ashore,  as  this  might  split  the  blade,  or  the  paddle  might 
be  washed  away  by  waves  or  a  swift- running  stream.  The 
bowman  now  steps  out  and  steadies  the  canoe  until  the 
sternman  can  get  ashore.  Together  they  lift  the  bow  in 
the  air  and  draw  it  along  until  the  stern  lands.  One  man 
now  goes  down  the  beach  and  takes  the  stern  up,  and  to- 
gether they  carry  the  load  to  a  place  of  safety. 

In  picking  up  a  canoe,  place  the  hand  under  the  deck  in 
either  end.  If  carrying  a  very  heavy  load  (175  or  200 
pounds),  lighten  the  canoe  before  carrying  far.  It  may 
strain  the  woodwork. 

In  making  camp  it  is  of  vast  importance  to  have  the  work 
carefully  divided.  In  unpacking  place  cooking  dishes  to- 
gether, while  provisions  in  the  tin  and  wooden  box  as  previ- 
ously described  may  be  left  in  the  canoe  temporarily. 

Unpacking 

Before  unpacking  any  small  articles,  spread  out  a  blanket, 
piece  of  canvas,  or  poncho  to  place  them  on.  It  is  the  only 
way  to  avoid  those  incomprehensible  and  numerous  losses 
which  are  so  annoying  to  new  campers.  An  excellent  plan 
that  I  have  often  adopted  when  stopping  for  a  noon  meal 

245 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


en-route  is  to  select  a  log  with  one  side  hewed,  or  a  large, 
flat  rock,  and  place  everything  on  that.  It  is  a  wonderful 
time-saver,  and  the  fire  may  be  built  against  the  same  rock, 
or  the  log  used  as  a  back  stick. 

While  one  boy  is  unpacking  the  other  should  be  building 
a  fireplace  and  gathering  wood.  I  know  of  no  one  thing 
in  the  making  of  camp  where  boys  fall  short  more  fre- 
quently than  in  gathering  wood  and  building  a  fire. 
Over  and  over  again,  in  the  woodcraft  tests  in  boys'  camps, 
which  will  be  described  later,  have  I  seen  them  gather  the 
damp  surface  carpet  of  leaves  and  mouldy  sticks  with 
which  the  forest  floor  is  covered,  and,  heaping  them  together, 
expect  a  fire.  Of  course,  only  a  temporary  smudge  results. 
(Refer  to  Chapter  VII.) 

A  simple  fireplace  is  soon  constructed  with  two  or  three 
stones  placed  together  somewhat  like  the  letter  U.  The  back 
may  be  against  a  bank,  ledge,  or  log.  Have  the  fireplace  al- 
ways face  the  wind.  It  creates  a  draught.  Do  not  build  a 
fire  under  overhanging  dry  branches  or  on  a  floor  of  pine 
needles.  In  fact,  always  clean  the  floor  of  your  fireplace. 
This  avoids  the  danger  of  spreading  a  fire,  and  makes  a 
better  bed  for  your  coals.  It  is  a  good  idea,  however,  when 
possible,  to  build  the  fire  in  the  shade. 

Firewood 

An  old  camper  and  guide  said:  "Get  all  the  wood  you 
can,  and  after  you  have  done  that — get  some  more  wood." 
Having  it  cut  and  ready  may  save  a  meal,  or  a  trip  into  the 
dark  woodland  to  collect  it.  New  campers  seldom  ever 
have  enough  wood,  or  the  proper  kind. 

246 


MAKING   A   TEMPORARY   CAMP 

Hard  wood  makes  the  hottest  coals  and  burns  longest. 
Pitchy  woods  light  quickest  and  burn  more  readily,  making 
a  hot,  blazing  fire. 

If  choice  is  permitted  use  dry-seasoned  hard  wood  that 
has  been  down  some  time. 

If  one  is  stopping  for  one  meal  the  fireplace  that  I  have 
described  will  do,  but  if  a  stay  is  expected  it  will  pay  to 
construct  a  more  elaborate  one.  This  may  be  done  ex- 
cellently, as  explained  before,  by  cutting  two  logs  six  to  eight 
feet  long  and  about  five  or  six  inches  thick,  and  placing 
them  side  by  side  at  an  angle,  so  that  they  meet  at  one  end, 
forming  a  long  letter  V.  Hew  the  tops  flat,  making  thus  a 
"  sideboard  "  or  "dresser"  for  dishes,  pans,  pots,  etc. 

Take  a  large  handful  of  shavings  or  birch  bark  and 
place  at  the  open  end  of  this  fireplace,  or  "range,"  cover 
with  small  dry  sticks,  and  light.  Feed  this  with  larger  and 
larger  sticks  until  the  regular  firewood  size  is  reached. 

Firewood  should  be  split  and  about  a  foot  long.  It 
should  also  be  as  near  a  uniform  size  as  possible.  If  large 
and  small  sticks  are  used  the  small  ones  are  dead  ashes 
by  the  time  that  the  large  ones  are  coals.  Round  wood 
does  not  burn  readily,  and  will  nest  too  closely  to  allow  air 
to  feed  the  flames.  Driftwood  is  good  material  to  start  a 
fire,  but  burns  out  rapidly  and  leaves  ashes,  not  coals. 
Almost  all  novices  make  the  mistake  of  building  a  large, 
blazing  fire,  thus  scorching  their  faces,  burning  up  their 
food,  and  making  cooking  difficult,  or  impossible.  Never 
attempt  to  cook  until  the  fire  has  burned  down  to  coals, 
or  a  small  blaze,  if  your  pot  is  hanging  over  the  fire  on  a 
forked  stick. 

247 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Arrangement  of  Cooking  Dishes 

Place  the  coffee-pot  at  one  side  over  the  coals,  and  the 
frying-pan  upon  them.  The  larger  pot  or  pail  with  cereal 
or  stew  may  be  placed  down  farther  on  the  ' '  stove ' '  nearer 
the  juncture  of  the  logs.  Here  the  fire  will  make  this 
simmer.  A  broiler  with  steak  may  stand  up  at  an  angle 
over  the  bed  of  coals,  with  the  handle  resting  against  the 
coffee-pot  or  an  end  of  the  logs.  Always  sit  to  windward 
of  the  fire,  as  it  is  cooler,  and  little  gusts  of  wind  will  not 
then  blow  ashes  into  your  face  or  upon  the  food.  In 
cooking  beans,  or  anything  which  requires  hours,  dig  a 
hole  a  little  larger  than  the  pot  they  are  to  be  cooked  in. 
Build  a  carefully  laid  fire,  placing  the  wood  in  the  form- 
of  a  hollow  square — one  stick  on  top  of  the  other.  You 
will  understand  this  when  you  think  of  the  manner  in 
which  a  log  cabin  is  constructed.  Use  hard  wood  split, 
and  sticks  of  nearly  the  same  size.  Permit  this  to  burn 
out  completely;  dig  out  the  coals,  put  them  at  one  side. 
Place  the  bean-pot  in  the  hole  and  cover  carefully  with 
coals,  and  leave  six  or  seven  hours. 

Building  Fires 

As  has  been  previously  said,  and  it  cannot  be  reiterated 
too  frequently,  get  plenty  of  wood,  both  large  sticks  for  the 
fire  and  small  ones  to  start  with.  Do  not  gather  leaves, 
damp  twigs,  or  moss.  Remember  that  the  splintery  inside 
of  wood  will  ignite  much  more  rapidly  than  the  outside. 

248 


MAKING   A   TEMPORARY   CAMP 

Be  sure  that  all  your  materials  are  at  hand  before  you  com- 
mence to  work.  Good  fires  require  patience  and  skill  in 
construction,  but  are  worth  the  effort  required.  A  camp- 
fire  may  be  built  in  several  shapes,  but  they  all  require  four 
things:  (i)  Some  light  inflammable  material  such  as  shav- 
ings, paper,  or  birch  bark  for  base;  (2)  small  twigs,  splinters, 
driftwood,  sticks,  broken  boxes  to  make  first  blaze;  (3) 
the  real  wood  of  the  cooking  or  warming  fire — sticks  of  a 
uniform  size,  split  open;  (4)  oxygen  under,  in,  and  around 
the  fire.  That  is  why  there  are  drafts  under  the  kitchen 
stove  and  furnaces.  Air  must  rush  into  the  fire  or  it  will 
not  burn.  Consequently,  if  you  have  any  choice,  build 
your  fire  where  the  wind  from  the  river  or  lake  will  blow 
into  it.  If  possible,  have  a  back  for  the  wind  to  fan  against 
and  create  a  current.  If  building  a  fireplace  in  an  open 
spot  leave  two  or  three  openings  on  opposite  sides,  which 
may  be  covered  or  uncovered  with  flat  stones  according  to 
the  direction  of  the  wind. 

Fires  are  usually  built  in  one  of  three  forms.  One,  when 
some  form  of  fireplace  is  employed,  as  two  logs  in  V-shaped 
formation,  rock  fireplace,  or  mud  construction;  secondly, 
in  the  log-house  fashion,  where  a  hollow  square  is  con- 
structed of  sticks  of  the  same  size  and  length  filled  in  with 
shavings,  splinters,  etc;  third,  the  Indian  fire,  which  is 
built  around  in  a  circle  like  the  spokes  of  a  wheel,  with  the 
sticks  resting  on  each  other  at  the  butt,  what  would  corre- 
spond to  the  hub  of  the  wheel  being  the  first  element  of  fire 
constructions  in  shavings,  splinters,  etc. 


249 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Making  Fires  Without  Matches 

The  "  Deadwood  Dick  Stories"  always  describe  the  hero 
as  building  a  fire  easily  and  comfortably  by  rubbing  two 
sticks  together,  but  I  have  never  been  able  to  do  it.  It 
can  be  done,  however. 

Firing  a  blank  cartridge  on  a  dry  linen  rag  placed  on  tl 
barrel  of  a  gun  will  ignite  it,  and  from  that  a  fire  may 
made. 

A  glass  crystal  will  quite  readily  ignite  dry  punk  or  paj 
or  birch  bark.  A  watch  crystal  will  do  also.  Sparks  will, 
it  is  true,  be  struck  from  a  knife  blade  or  quartz  or  steel  or 
flint,  but  to  convert  this  into  fire  is  very  difficult.  For 
boy  campers  I  would  suggest  that  plenty  of  matches  be 
carried  in  a  waterproof  match-safe,  with  a  cover  that  will 
not  become  lost.  To  keep  coals  while  absent  from  camp, 
or  during  the  night,  cover  them  with  hemlock  bark. 

Woods 

The  soft  woods  are  good  only  for  kindling  or  for  quick 
cooking-fires.  Balsam,  fir,  basswood,  tamarack,  gray  pine, 
and  sycamore  are  all  good  fuel,  while  birch,  oak,  hickory, 
hemlock,  and  maple  are  the  best. 

Kindling  may  be  obtained  from  the  dry,  smaller  branch- 
es of  almost  any  fallen  tree  or  a  stump  that  has  not 
all  rotted  down  to  the  ground.  Along  the  salt  water 
driftwood  makes  •  kindling  beyond  comparison  if  split 
open. 

250 


MAKING   A   TEMPORARY   CAMP 


Building  Fires  in  the  Rain 

It  is  good  practice  for  boys  to  build  fires  in  the  rain,  or 
on  a  damp,  foggy  day.  This  may  be  practised  at  home 
first,  using  only  the  material  found  out-of-doors. 

In  the  woods  there  may  be  frequently  found  a  half-dry 
spot  under  a  shelving  rock  or  a  large  tree  fallen  or  standing ; 
around  this  will  be  dry  bark,  small  twigs,  or  fallen  wood. 
Carefully  shaving  off  the  outside  of  most  small  fallen  wood 
will  reveal  a  dry  surface  for  splinters. 

To  Light  the  Fire 

Long  tramping  or  paddling  may  have  pretty  thoroughly 
soaked  the  camper.  A  dry  spot  for  striking  a  match  will 
usually  be  found,  however,  on  the  inside  of  high  boots,  or 
in  a  felt  hat.  Strike  the  match  and  instantly  cup  the  hands 
to  protect  the  flame.  Face  and  point  the  match-head  to- 
ward the  wind.  Protect  the  kindling  and  splinters  with  the 
body  or  a  blanket  until  they  burn  well.  If  a  fire  is  even  slight- 
ly sheltered  from  the  direct  pelting  rain  by  a  rock,  shelving 
bank,  or  fallen  tree,  it  will  still  burn  in  a  bad  storm. 

Matches  that  have  been  wet  by  being  dropped  into  a  pool 
of  water,  even  for  five  minutes,  may  be  dried  by  rubbing 
them  through  the  hair. 

Camp  Stoves 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  cooking  may  be  accom- 
plished quicker  and  with  greater  ease  on  a  stove.  How- 

251 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ever,  there  are  two  very  excellent  reasons  why  stoves  are 
not  always  advisable.  One,  because  the  true  camper,  the 
boy  or  girl  who  loves  the  open  country,  prefers  to  bake  and 
cook  on  the  woodsman's  own  stove;  to  use  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible woodland  materials  which  Nature  has  provided  with 
a  lavish  hand  for  those  who  can  see.  There  are,  of  course, 
times  when  a  stove  is  advisable.  There  are  two  chief 
varieties  —  one  using  alcohol  and  the  other  kerosene  as 
fuel.  The  alcohol  stove  of  two  burners  is  compact  and 
light.  It  is  simplicity  itself.  Fill  the  tank  with  denatured 
alcohol,  turn  on  the  stopcock,  apply  a  match,  and  it  is 
done.  I  have  used  one  on  a  yacht,  and  after  it  was 
started  without  further  trouble  this  automatic  servant 
served  up  piping  hot  coffee  and  cereals.  The  objection  is 
the  expense.  A  two-burner  alcohol  stove  with  a  copper 
tank  costs  about  $9.  Denatured  alcohol  varies  in  price, 
depending  on  where  it  is  purchased.  A  fair  average  is 
25  cents  a  quart.  With  care  a  quart  will  last  a  week. 

The  kerosene  stoves  are  of  two  varieties — one  with  gravity 
feed,  and  the  other  with  forced  draft.  A  good  example  of 
the  former  is  the  blue-flame  stove  manufactured  by  the 
Standard  Oil  Company.  They  cost  $7,  and  have  an  oven  that 
will  bake  bread  and  biscuits.  They  can  be  obtained  in  any 
large  department  store,  in  the  house-furnishing  department. 

The  forced-draft  stove  has  an  arrangement  for  pumping 
compressed  air  into  the  flame,  causing  it  to  burn  with  great 
force  and  intense  heat,  after  the  manner  of  a  plumber's 
blow -torch.  The  stoves  are  called  Primus,  and  may  be 
purchased  at  any  yacht  outfitter's  along  Chambers  or  South 
Street  in  New  York;  cost  about  $4.50  to  $5. 

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MAKING   A   TEMPORARY   CAMP 

There  is  also  a  small  kerosene  stove  that  is  really  nothing 
but  a  lamp  with  two  burners,  and  one  is  supposed  to  cook 
with  it.  My  advice  regarding  this  is  to  leave  it  at  home. 
It  is  smoky  and  smelly.  If  you  feel  compelled  to  take  it, 
put  it  in  a  tin  pail  where  the  oil  cannot  reach  your  pro- 
visions. Kerosene  has  a  way  of  getting  into  everything  on 
a  cruise. 

Then,  of  course,  for  a  fixed  camp  or  yacht,  there  is  the 
regulation  range  for  burning  wood  and  coal.  The  best  for 
yachts  is  the  Shipmate  range  with  four  covers.  It  has  a 
rail  around  the  top.  This  prevents  the  pots  from  going 
adrift. 


Chapter  XIX 

HIKING  OR  TRAMPING 

TRAMPING  through  a  country  is  undoubtedly  one  of 
the  most  attractive  ways  to  view  it.  It  is  a  pastime 
looked  down  upon  with  scorn  in  too  many  instances  in  this 
country.  No  doubt  the  fine,  fresh  color  and  general  robust- 
ness of  the  English  people  is  due,  in  large  part,  to  their  be- 
ing a  walking  nation. 

"Hiking,"  or  tramping,  is  an  art,  as  every  army  officer 
knows,  and  the  amount  of  intelligent  care  that  is  put  into 
it  will  determine  the  pleasure  and  benefit  derived.  Vari- 
ous conditions  must  influence  the  length  of  march,  the 
amount  carried,  and  the  frequency  of  rests. 

The  first  factor  is  age  and  physical  development.  De- 
cided harm  may  be  done  a  boy  in  his  early  teens  by  forced 
marches  either  from  an  organized  camp  or  from  his  home 
on  a  jaunt  of  a  day  or  two.  Pride  will  often  keep  him  going 
long  after  he  ought  to  be  recovering  his  spent  vitality. 

It  ought  to  be  a  rule  in  all  boy  camps  that  no  one  whose 
heart  is  not  first  examined  should  be  permitted  to  attempt 
a  mountain  climb  over  one  thousand  feet  or  a  long  march. 
I  have  discovered  "heart  trouble"  caused  by  leaky  valves 
in  boys  where  it  would  not  have  been  suspected  from  their 

254 


HIKING   OR   TRAMPING 


robust  appearance.  In  speaking  of  a  march  or  hike,  refer- 
ence is  made  to  those  on  which  the  blanket,  food,  and  other 
equipment  are  carried  for  an  overnight  trip  or  longer. 

The  other  considerations  which  should  govern  a  counsellor, 
master,  or  leader,  as  he  may  be  termed  in  a  boys'  camp,  are 
the  weather,  climate,  roads,  water,  weight  carried,  rations, 
character  and  condition  of  clothing — if  torn,  binding,  chaf- 
ing, etc.  Also  the  spirit  of  the  party.  This  is  of  great  im- 
portance, and  a  good  counsellor,  as  the  head  of  boys'  parties 
will  be  called  here,  must  invent  and  devise  various  methods 
of  keeping  his  command  in  good  spirits. 

I  have  seen  a  tired  and  drooping  party  of  boys  cheered 
up  by  singing.  Drumming  out  the  time  of  footsteps  on  cups 
is  a  wonderful  help  in  climbing  hills. 

Stories  of  the  country  passed  through  help  a  boy's 
imagination.  Placing  the  little  party  into  military  forma- 
tion, with  advance  and  rear  guard,  adds  interest,  while 
changing  company  formation  will  make  walking  seem  less 
monotonous.  This  may  be  accomplished  by  such  com- 
mands as  "Form  fours!  March!"  "Form  twos!  March!" 
' '  Single  file !  March !' '  If  these  commands  do  not  correspond 
to  the  latest  military  tactics  they  will  answer  for  the  purpose. 

Distance  to  March 

As  has  been  said,  the  distance  to  be  covered  is  influenced 
by  many  factors,  and  in  these  the  condition  of  the  roadway 
must  figure  prominently.  Dust,  mud,  sand,  and  grade 
must  be  those  most  frequently  considered.  Obviously,  a 
boy  cannot  walk  as  far  in  a  rough,  mountainous  country  as 

17  255 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


in  a  level  farming  district.  A  good  average,  however,  is 
twelve  miles  a  day  for  a  seasoned  walker.  Many  boys  cover 
twenty-five  miles  easily  for  three  or  four  days,  but  they 
are  exceptionally  strong.  It  would  be  a  mistake  for  a  party 
of  city  boys  to  start  out  expecting  to  make  a  forced  march 
of  eighteen  to  twenty  miles  the  first  day.  They  are  not 
trained  to  carry  blanket-rolls  and  provisions,  and  are  ac- 
customed to  the  level  pavements.  Begin  gradually  and 
work  up. 

Some  general  rules  that  I  have  worked  out  with  several 
hundred  boys  may  be  found  useful: 

(1)  Choose  boys  of  about  the  same  age  and  strength. 

(2)  Be  sure  to  have  one  or  two  optimistic  spirits  along, 
if  possible. 

(3)  March  two  miles  and  rest   two  minutes,   dropping 
packs,  but  not  sitting  down.    It  stiffens  muscles. 

(4)  Gargle  the  throat  frequently  with  cool,  fresh  water, 
but  do  not  drink  except  at  meal-time. 

(5)  Keep  a  steady  pace,  and  keep  together.    The  stronger 
ones  hurrying  ahead  and  appearing  on   the  next  hilltop 
beckoning  tend  to  discourage  the  weaker  marchers.     The 
good  "spirit"  of  the  party  is  in  danger  at  once. 

(6)  If  a  boy  limps,  investigate  immediately  and  take  his 
shoe  and  stocking  off  at  once.     Do  not  wait  until  camp  is 
made.    It  may  save  him  weeks  of  suffering. 

Clothing 

Every  boy  should  have  a  flannel  shirt  and  a  jersey  or 
sweater  around  his  waist.     The  flannel  prevents  the  too 

256 


HIKING   OR   TRAMPING 


rapid  evaporation  of  heat  and  the  consequent  catching  cold. 
This  should  be  true  in  the  hottest  weather.  Under  no  cir- 
cumstances should  a  boy  start  on  any  trip,  whether  by 
canoe  or  walking,  wearing  a  linen  or  silk  shirt. 

The  matter  of  trousers  is  not  important;  the  boy  can 
wear  any  old  pair  of  comfortable  ones,  fitting  around  the 
hips  so  that  a  belt  and  not  suspenders  is  worn.  Many  or- 
ganized boys'  camps  have  a  uniform — some  of  flannel  and 
others  of  khaki. 

HATS. — The  hat  most  comfortable  in  all  weather,  I  have 
found,  is  a  felt  hat  with  the  sweat-band  torn  out  and  a 
flannel  one  substituted.  It  sheds  water,  will  make  a  drink- 
ing-cup  or  a  pitcher — is  adapted  to  all  sorts  of  weather. 
Some  men  prefer  a  flannel  or  cheviot  hat  or  cap,  and  they 
are  a  comfort  on  cold,  windy  nights.  Never  wear  a  canvas  or 
linen  hat.  They  permit  the  rays  of  the  sun  to  come  directly 
on  the  head  and  after  a  long  rain  are  about  as  much  use  as  so 
much  paper.  Always  have  plenty  of  air  space  in  the  crown. 

BELTS  should  be  broad  and  worn  loose  over  the  hips. 
Never  pull  tight,  as  they  may  injure  the  abdomen. 

SHOES. — This  is  a  very  important  feature  of  the  equip- 
ment on  walking  trips.  A  heavy  pair  of  thick-soled,  high 
boots  are  best.  They  should  be  so  wide  and  long  that  at 
the  end  of  a  day  the  toes  do  not  crowd  into  the  end  of  the 
shoe.  Have  broad,  low  heels.  Rubber  heels  do  not  make 
much  difference  on  country  roads  or  mountain  trails.  Shoes 
should  fit  evenly  without  pressure  or  pain  anywhere.  Do 
not  wear  patent  leather  or  any  fancy  shoe.  Always  have 
lace  shoes — not  button.  The  high  " hunting  boots"  are  too 
cumbersome  for  long  walks.  Army  leggings  are  a  wonderful 

257 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


help  in  walking.  In  wet  grass  or  muddy  roads  they  are  a 
comfort  indeed.  Weston,  the  famous  walker,  and  the 
soldiers  of  all  nations  wear  them.  Try  them. 

SOCKS. — Woollen  socks,  even  in  summer,  are  best.  The 
thickness  prevents  the  leather  rubbing  on  tender  flesh  and 
keeps  out  sand  and  dirt;  at  least  two  pairs  should  be  taken 
and  a  clean  pair  put  on  each  morning,  one  being  washed 
out  and  dried  before  the  fire  or  at  some  friendly  farmer's 
each  night.  The  extra  pair  may  be  carried  inside  the  shirt. 

Bathing  the  feet  frequently  is  one  of  the  most  important 
points  to  consider.  This  should  be  done  every  day  at  the 
end  of  the  march  as  regularly  and  faithfully  as  the  getting 
of  the  evening  meal.  To  permit  a  boy  to  start  the  day  with 
dusty,  soiled  feet  and  damp  socks  is  to  court  disaster. 


HIKING 


THE    DIVING-BOARD 


In  hot  weather  and  in  particularly  sandy  or  dusty  road- 
ways it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  wash  the  feet  as  many 
as  three  times  daily. 

I  have  seen  boys  come  into  camp  after  a  two-hundred- 
mile  jaunt  through  the  rocky  roadbeds  and  deep  dust  of 
the  Adirondacks  as  fresh  and  buoyant  as  if  just  starting. 

258 


HIKING   OR   TRAMPING 


On  these  trips  the  boys'  feet  were  all  washed  twice  and 
sometimes  three  times  daily.  A  bit  of  castile  or  Ivory  soap 
softens  the  tender  spots  when  washing  in  the  hard  water 
of  mountain  streams.  A  very  necessary  point  also  is  to 
dry  the  feet  carefully  and  thoroughly.  If  this  is  not  done 
various  forms  of  skin  irritation,  varying  from  meje  chafing 
to  real  eczema,  will  result. 

Dusting  powder  on  the  feet  and  between  the  toes  is  an 
excellent  plan.  I  use  a  powder  that  is  employed  by  the 
soldiers  in  the  Kaiser's  army,  called  German  Military  Foot 
Powder.  It  may  be  purchased  in  almost  any  large  drug 
store.  A  convenient  way  to  carry  it  is  to  have  a  small 
bundle  of  powder  papers  made  up  as  the  druggist  prepares 
medicinal  powders,  in  papers  folded  twice  in  the  middle  and 
on  each  end.  Slip  these  into  a  small  envelope  or  pocket- 
book.  Extract  them  as  needed.  They  may  be  carried  in 
the  trousers  watch-pocket. 

BLANKETS  AND  PONCHOS. — A  poncho  is  a  rubber  blanket 
and  is  absolutely  indispensable  on  any  outdoor  trip.  It  is 
forty-five  by  seventy-two  inches,  and  costs  $1.50  to  $2.50. 
Give  a  regular  soldier  the  choice  between  discarding  his 
felt  hat  and  blanket  or  poncho  and  he  will  throw  away 
everything  but  his  rubber  blanket.  These  are  all  made 
with  eyelets  in  the  four  corners,  which  are  convenient  for 
lashing  about  blankets  or  other  bundles,  and  may  be  utilized 
as  tents  or  shelters.  Some  ponchos  have  a  slit  in  the  middle 
through  which  the  head  may  be  thrust  and  a  rubber  coat 
thus  improvised. 

Blankets  vary  all  the  way  from  the  thin  half-wool  and 
costing  about  $i  to  the  heavy  "army"  one  costing  $5. 

259 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Gray  or  dark  blue  is  the  best  color,  and  the  heavy  one  will 
pay  for  its  extra  cost  the  first  cool  or  damp  night  out. 

CANTEEN. — When  travelling  in  a  country  where  water  is 
difficult  to  obtain  a  canteen  may  be  found  a  great  comfort. 
The  one  used  in  the  United  States  army  is  an  excellent 
example.  It  is  made  of  heavy  block  tin  with  a  patent  lock, 
cork  and  chain,  and  covered  with  thick  absorbent  felt, 
which  is  soaked  with  water  at  time  of  filling.  A  heavy  dry 
canvas  covering  is  then  drawn  down  and  laced  over  the 
soaked  felt,  confining  the  moisture  and  retarding  evapora- 
tion, thus  reducing  the  temperature  of  the  contents  of  the 
canteen.  This  canteen  can  be  used  as  a  hot -water  bag  in 
camp.  It  holds  half  a  gallon,  and  the  cost  is  $1.75. 

One  of  the  first  things  to  do  in  making  camp  is  to  cut 
small  balsam  boughs,  if  they  can  be  had,  for  the  bed  and 
"thatch"  it.  For  present  purposes  we  need  to  amplify  the 
description  in  Chapter  VI. 

After  the  "mattress"  of  boughs  or  hay  has  been  laid  on  a 
smooth  spot,  care  having  been  taken  that  all  sticks,  stones, 
and  hummocks  are  removed,  cut  head  and  foot  logs,  stake 
them  in  place  by  inverted  crutches  or  pegs.  Lay  the  poncho 
black  or  rubber  side  down.  Drive  pegs  through  the  eyelets 
in  each  end  to  prevent  its  creeping.  The  sweater,  rolled  up, 
makes  a  good  pillow.  Roll  yourself  up  in  the  blanket  so 
that  a  fold  will  be  underneath  as  well  as  above.  In  rainy 
weather  dig  a  little  ditch  around  the  bed  so  that  the  water 
may  drain  down  a  small  elevation. 

IN  THE  RAIN. — Two  boys  may  keep  reasonably  dry  in  a 
forest  by  sleeping  together.  By  placing  one  poncho  under 
and  the  other  over  them,  a  rather  severe  rainstorm  may  be 

260 


HIKING   OR   TRAMPING 


weathered  in  comfort.  Put  a  slouch  hat  over  the  face  to 
keep  rain  out.  There  is  also  the  advantage  of  double 
warmth  from  two  blankets.  Sleeping  together  except  in 
rainstorms  should  be  discouraged.  ' '  Horse-blanket "  safety- 
pins  -will  prevent  the  feet  from  becoming  exposed,  and  may 
also  be  used  to  convert  the  blanket  into  a  sleeping-bag. 
These  large  safety-pins  may  be  obtained  at  any  harness 
store.  Cost,  25  cents  a  dozen. 

AROUND  THE  FIRE. — In  building  a  fire  to  sleep  around, 
it  is  wisest  to  follow  the  Indian  plan  of  making  a  small 
hardwood  fire  and  getting  the  back  close  to  it,  in  preference 
to  a  roaring  blaze  that  scorches  everything.  Try  and  find  a 
good  hardwood  log.  Have  small  split  sticks  near  so  that  the 
fire  may  be  replenished  during  the  night  without  getting  up. 

Cut  two  forked  sticks  and  connect  them  with  a  cross-piece 
to  dry  the  socks  and  damp  clothing  on.  Before  you  turn 
in  make  preparations  as  fully  as  possible  for  the  work  of  the 
next  day. 

ON  MAKING  BLANKET-ROLLS. — Spread  the  poncho,  black 
or  face  side  down,  and  lay  the  blanket  smoothly  on  it.  Put 
in  any  articles  that  you  may  wish  to  carry  in  the  roll,  as 
towels,  soap,  extra  socks,  etc.;  also  canned  goods  may  be 
comfortably  carried  in  this  blanket-roll.  Roll  up  as  tightly 
as  possible — then  unroll  and  roll  up  again;  this  second  trial 
will  make  it  smaller  and  more  compact.  Strap  with  a  skate 
strap,  or  tie  in  the  middle  and  at  each  end.  Be  sure  that 
this  is  done  below  the  contents  of  the  roll  or  they  will  be 
lost  by  the  wayside.  Now  strap  the  two  ends  of  the  blanket 
together  and  slip  over  the  head  so  that  it  rests  on  one 
shoulder. 

261 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ARTICLES  NEEDED  FOR  COOKING. — The  articles  in  com- 
mon, as  coffee-pot,  stewpan,  hatchet  and  pail,  may  be  di- 
vided equally  among  the  party.  As  to  carrying  extra  food 
and  equipment,  there  is  the  choice  between  the  Adirondack 
pack-basket  and  the  regular  army  knapsack.  The  former 
is  stiff  and  holds  more;  the  latter  is  light  and  holds  less, 
but  hangs  less  comfortably  going  uphill.  The  Indians  in 
Canada  carry  the  load  by  a  ''tump  line,"  which  suspends 
all  the  weight  from  a  band  passed  around  the  forehead. 
This  is  said  by  those  accustomed  to  it  to  be  as  comfortable 
as  any  way  of  toting. 

WHAT  TO  CARRY: 

Blanket,  army,  weight         4^  Ibs. 

Poncho,  45  x  72  ins.,  weight         2     Ibs. 

Sweater,  varsity,  high   neck,  weight  i^  Ibs. 
Share    of    cooking    utensils,    large    spoons, 

knife,  cups,  matches,  etc.,  weight.     ...  2^  Ibs. 

Food,  according  to  trip      ....      about  4     Ibs. 

14^  Ibs. 

This  is  a  list  of  the  absolutely  indispensable  articles. 

POINTERS. — Always  go  into  camp  an  hour  before  sunset. 
Here,  as  in  the  canoe  trips  described,  divide  the  work,  one 
going  for  wood  and  water,  while  another  builds  a  fireplace, 
etc. 

Never  carry  weight  so  as  to  press  on  the  chest.  It  ob- 
structs the  amount  of  oxygen  taken  and  lowers  the  vitality. 

SLEEPING  IN  BARNS. — Hay  Fever:  Many  times  a  kind- 
hearted  farmer  will  permit  sleeping  in  his  barn.  Hay  makes 
a  good  bed  if  smoothed  out.  Beware  of  the  danger  of  fire 
here.  Make  no  light  at  all  in  a  haymow.  Lay  your  blankets 

262 


HIKING    OR    CAMPING 


before  it  gets  dark.  I  have  spent  some  uncomfortable 
nights  for  not  doing  so. 

Boys  with  a  tendency  to  hay  fever  should  not  sleep  in  a 
haymow  or  near  freshly  cut  grass  below  two  thousand  feet 
elevation. 

WATER. — Take  care  of  the  drinking-water.  It  is  vastly 
important.  There  is  no  test  that  can  be  readily  applied 
and  at  once  which  will  determine  whether  or  not  water  is 
pure  enough  for  drinking.  Its  appearance,  color,  and  odor 
help  some,  but  not  much.  The  only  test  that  the  leader  of 
a  party  can  apply  is  to  determine  in  a  general  way  the 
source  of  the  supply.  A  river  just  below  a  town  is  always 
polluted.  A  brook  running  through  a  barnyard  and  a  well 
behind  a  stable  are  always  to  be  avoided. 

FILTER. — If  one  has  time,  a  filter  may  be  constructed 
by  boring  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  a  pail  and  attaching  a 
piece  of  hose  or  a  pipe  to  it.  Fill  in  fairly  large  stones  (wal- 
nut size),  then  an  inch  or  two  of  smaller  ones  (pea  size), 
then  coarse  sand,  finally  fine  sand,  and  pour  your  water 
on  top.  Pure  water  will  result. 

AFTER  HEAVY  RAINS. — Remember  that  after  a  heavy  rain 
rivers  and  streams  are  apt  to  be  polluted  by  foul  material 
that  has  been  rotting  in  the  sun  beside  the  normal  water- 
ways. The  New  York  State  Board  of  Health  and  the  Ver- 
mont State  Board  of  Health  both  give  Lake  Champlain  and 
all  large  lakes  having  any  manufacturing  or  towns  on  their 
shores  as  unsuitable  for  drinking  purposes.  If  water  from 
a  lake  must  be  used  at  a  cottage  or  camp,  have  the  pipe 
sunk  as  deep  as  possible  with  a  filter  on  its  end.  An  in- 
take pipe  in  a  well  or  lake  below  a  latrine  or  toilet  which 

263 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


has  a  slope  toward  it  is  always  in  a  bad  place.  Put  the  pipe 
around  a  bend  in  the  shore  line  or  where  the  land  dips  in  an 
opposite  direction. 

Do  not  camp  along  river  bottoms.  Go  up  to  the  high 
ground  at  night.  All  the  Maine  rivers  have  very  high  banks 
and  are  thickly  timbered.  These  make  excellent  camping 
spots.  Water  may  be  obtained  from  wells  at  occupied  farm- 
houses. 

Do  not  drink  from  the  wells  of  abandoned  farms.  They 
may  contain  dead  animals. 

LONG  HOURS  OF  REST. — It  is  most  important  for  a  leader 
to  have  his  boys  in  bed  at  7.30  P.M.  after  a  day's  march. 
Nothing  debilitates  boys  more  than  loss  of  sleep.  'They 
will  recuperate  wonderfully  after  a  hard  day  if  given  good 
food  and  ten  or  eleven  hours'  sleep.  If  it  is  necessary  to 
move  about  the  camp,  do  so  quietly,  and  avoid  loud  talking. 

REASSURE  BOYS  AS  TO  OUT-OF-DOOR  DANGER. — The  city 
lad's  nerves  are  not  attuned  to  the  new  conditions  of  the 
great  out-of-door  world,  and  they  are  indeed  strange  to  one 
who  has  perhaps  never  previously  slept  out  of  his  own  room. 
There  is  no  danger  from  wild  animals  in  sleeping  out  except 
in  extremely  wild  countries,  such  as  boys  would  seldom  visit, 
and  even  then  very  little  with  a  camp-fire  going.  The  leader 
should  reassure  a  party  of  boys  on  this  point. 

WOODEN  DISHES,  ETC. — Dishes  may  be  made  from  birch 
bark  that  will  hold  hot  coffee  or  soup.  Cut  a  strip  of  birch 
bark  in  oblong  shape  and  fold  up  its  ends,  pinning  with 
wooden  slivers,  and  you  have  it.  Look  out  for  knot-holes 
or  worm-holes. 

MOSQUITO-NETS  are  of  great  value  when  camping  in  a 

264 


HIKING    OR   TRAMPING 


country  where  these  little  pests  abound.  Their  weight  is 
not  a  factor,  and  they  can  be  rolled  up  in  a  small  space  and 
lashed  firmly  to  prevent  tearing.  Build  a  little  framework 
over  the  head  or  erect  three  short  poles,  tepee  fashion,  over 
the  body;  drape  the  netting,  and  crawl  in.  Be  very  care- 
ful to  shut  all  the  openings  after  you.  The  netting  cannot 
be  simply  placed  over  the  face  unelevated,  as  the  mos- 
quitoes will  sting  through  it. 

HATCHETS. — A  hatchet  (No.  i)  has  a  fourteen-inch  handle, 
weighs  one  and  a  half  pounds,  and  costs  60  cents.  It  may 
be  carried  in  a  leather  sheath.  This  costs  75  cents.  The 
Marble  safety  pocket -axe  has  a  nickel  -  plated  guard  for 
the  blade,  which  springs  in  the  handle  when  not  in  use. 
Weight,  sixteen  ounces.  Costs  $1.35. 

A  pocket  flash-light  and  a  can-opener  will  be  found  useful. 


Chapter  XX 

CAMP  OR  SCOUTING  GAMES 

War  Game  No*  \ 

THE  war  game  as  played  at  some  of  the  New  England 
boys'  camps  is  readily  adapted  to  boys  in  the  suburbs 
of  cities  or  in  the  country.     It  is  best  played  in  the  woods. 

The  party  is  divided  into  two  armies  which  may  be  called 
the  Northern  and  Southern  Army  or  Red  and  Blue  Army. 
Commanders  and  officers  are  next  elected. 

A  certain  line  of  division  is  decided  upon,  as  a  roadway, 
a  fence,  or  a  stream.  All  the  territory  on  one  side  belongs 
to  one  army,  and  all  the  territory  on  the  other  side  belongs 
to  the  opposing  forces. 

Next,  a  given  time  is  agreed  upon  for  beginning  and  end- 
ing hostilities.  For  example,  say  the  war  is  to  begin  at 
10  A.M.  and  end  at  i  P.M.  See  that  the  watches  of  all  the 
party  are  set  alike  This  may  cause  dispute  if  not  attended 
to. 

The  scouts  of  one  party  now  endeavor  to  get  into  the 
country  of  the  other  without  being  seen.  If  one  scout  calls  the 
name  of  another  that  scout  is  "dead."  When  two  or  more 
scouts  have  the  same  name  the  first  name  or  initial  must 
be  given. 

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CAMP   OR   SCOUTING   GAMES 


The  defenders  may  post  themselves  along  their  line  of 
defence  behind  rocks,  trees,  fences,  etc.,  and  pick  their  men 
off  as  they  attempt  to  cross,  or  may  sally  forth  into  the 
country  of  the  enemy  and  endeavor  to  head  him  off. 

The  attacking  party  may  use  any  ingenious  means  that 
they  can  devise  to  cross  the  border-line  except  to  disguise 
themselves.  They  may  ride  across  the  line  in  a  load  of  hay, 
climb  out  on  the  limbs  of  trees  and  drop  down,  wade  up  a 
stream,  swim  down  a  pond,  or  go  under  a  bridge. 

The  chief  point  of  this  game  is  for  the  scout  boy  to  admit 
honestly  and  fairly  that  he  was  seen  and  his  name  called 
out.  If  any  boy  does  not  act  honorably,  of  course  that 
whole  game  is  lost  at  once. 

If  two  boys  shout  each  other's  name  at  the  same  time  they 
can  draw  lots  to  see  who  is  ''dead"  or  disabled. 

Sometimes  amusing  incidents  occur,  as  when  two  scout 
boys  suddenly  come  upon  each  other  and  in  the  excitement 
of  the  moment  are  unable  to  recall  or  shout  the  other's 
name.  They  will  frequently  stand  muttering  and  sputter- 
ing, unable  to  say  a  word.  In  Maine  last  summer  one  boy 
rode  through  the  lines  safely  curled  up  in  a  baby-carriage; 
another  joined  a  gang  of  section  men  and  rode  over  the  line 
on  a  hand-car. 

The  winner  is  the  side  that  has  the  larger  number  of 
men  left  at  the  expiration  of  the  agreed-upon  time  or  the 
greater  number  in  the  enemy's  territory. 

The  Besieged  City  Game 

A  small  town  or  group  of  farm  buildings  is  surrounded  by 
a  certain  number  of  scouts.  They  conceal  themselves  be- 

267 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


hind  walls,  trees,  etc.,  and  a  scout  volunteers  to  go  through 
the  lines  of  the  besiegers  to  carry  a  message  to  the  com- 
mander of  the  city.  If  he  gets  through  the  line  it  counts 
one  point,  and  if  he  succeeds  in  bringing  a  return  message  it 
counts  two  points.  The  commander  may  be  some  one  pre- 
viously agreed  upon — as  a  friendly  storekeeper,  the  post- 
master, or  the  station  agent.  The  besiegers  may  not  enter 
the  town  beyond  a  point  agreed  upon. 

In  this  game  the  scout  boy  carrying  the  message  must  be 
caught  and  detained.  If  he  can  escape  and  perform  his 
duty  it  still  counts  to  his  credit. 

Attacking  Party  in  Canoes 

The  game  is  played  at  night,  and  it  is  best  played  on  an 
island  or  promontory,  since  the  longer  shore  line  in  either 
case  will  offer  more  chances  for  landing. 

The  camp  is  divided  into  two  parties ;  one  is  to  defend  the 
stronghold  and  the  other  to  attack  in  canoes. 

The  canoe  party  must  actually  get  foothold  on  the  land 
to  count.  If  they  are  discovered  and  touched  before  the 
canoe  is  beached,  they  are  out  of  the  game. 

Should  a  canoe  succeed  in  landing,  it  is  a  winner  and  its 
occupants  may  not  be  molested. 

If  the  canoe  party  has  more  men  landed  safely  than  the 
defending  party,  they  win. 

This  is  an  exciting  game  and  holds  the  interest  at  an  in- 
tense pitch.  Bonfires  may  be  built  by  the  defenders  to  dis- 
cover the  enemy,  but  lanterns  and  electric  torches  are 
barred  out  as  artificial  and  unfair  aids.  Any  number  may 
play  the  game, 

268 


CAMP   OR   SCOUTING   GAMES 


Ensai-Tai  Parties 

These  are  Japanese  words  meaning  exploration  party. 
This  game  is  always  entered  into  with  great  spirit  by  boys, 
and  can  be  played  by  any  number  of  boys  over  any  amount 
of  country.  The  incentive  to  go  on  is  ever  present,  as  will  be 
seen. 

The  element  of  uncertainty  and  romance  in  this  game  is 
created  by  the  fact  that  no  one  in  the  party  knows  where  he 
is  going  or  how  long  he  is  to  be  gone.  A  chief  counsellor  or 
the  director  has  previously  gone  ahead  and  ''planted"  mes- 
sages which  are  to  be  found  by  the  party  one  after  the  other. 
For  example,  the  director  lines  up  the  ensai-tai  party  and 
reads  directions  for  their  start  (equipped  with  ponchos  and 
blankets  and  two  days'  rations).  " Proceed  at  once,  follow- 
ing the  main  road  to  a  fork,  take  the  right-hand  branch  and 
walk  until  a  red  house  is  reached.  At  that  house  ask  for 
the  second  letter."  This  letter  may  read:  ''Follow  this 
road,  going  north,  until  you  come  to  the  river;  turn  east 
and  follow  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river  until  you  come  to 
the  toll-bridge.  Cross  this  and  camp  for  the  night.  Ask 
the  keeper  of  the  bridge  for  a  third  letter.  Fresh  water 
will  be  found  in  a  spring  there." 

Second  Day:  Third  letter  says:  "Now  proceed  to  the 

town  of  N ,  see  the  cot  ton -mills,  make  note  of  number 

of  men  employed  and  output.  Report  on  the  power  em- 
ployed. Leave  N ,  going  southeast,  following  the  rail- 
road track  two  miles;  you  will  reach  a  large  oak  forest; 
cross  this  at  right  angles  to  the  road  and  you  will  come  to  a 

269 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


trail;  follow  this  until  a  guide's  cabin  is  found.  The  cabin 

is  of  logs,  and  the  guide's  name  is  X .  He  is  friendly 

to  our  interests,  and  will  guide  you.  Behind  his  cabin  one 
hundred  yards,  at  the  foot  of  a  pine-tree,  dig  for  more  careful 
directions." 

Here  will  be  found  a  can  with  the  directions  for  coming 
home,  and  perhaps  an  invitation  to  some  festivity  as  a 
reward. 

This  game  may,  of  course,  be  varied  in  a  hundred  ways, 
depending  on  the  country  passed  through.  It  is  a  never- 
ending  source  of  amusement  and  interest. 

A  boy's  powers  of  observation  may  be  trained  by  having 
him  report  on  the  number  and  quality  of  wells ;  the  number 
of  farms  passed ;  the  nature  of  the  country ;  the  characteris- 
tics of  the  people  encountered;  camping-places;  birds  seen 
and  identified. 

Canoe  Tag 

This  game  tests  the  skill  of  canoeists,  and  teaches  rapidity 
of  paddling  and  turning.  Any  number  of  canoes  may  par- 
ticipate. Two  or  three  may  be  in  a  canoe. 

Each  canoe  is  provided  with  a  willow  switch  about  four 
feet  long — the  "tagging  stick."  It  is  small  enough  and 
light  enough  so  that  it  will  not  hurt  any  one.  The  touching 
is  all  done  with  this  stick,  and  either  the  canoe  or  its  oc- 
cupants may  be  touched.  "Cutting  out "  may  be  practised, 
as  in  the  game  on  land. 

Water  Baseball  is  played  much  like  the  game  ashore, 
with  floats  for  bases,  the  players  swimming  from  one  to 
another.  The  ball  used  is  large  and  watertight. 

270 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Capturing  the  Flag 

A  small  American  flag  is  placed  in  an  open  field  not  more 
than  two  hundred  feet  from  a  thicket  or  woodland.  The 
defenders  conceal  themselves  around  this  spot  behind  trees 
and  rocks.  The  attacking  party  creeps  up  as  near  as  pos- 
sible to  the  open  space  without  being  seen.  Then  some  one 
is  selected  to  make  a  dash  for  the  flag.  If  he  is  seen  by*  any 
member  of  the  defenders  and  his  name  shouted,  he  is 
wounded  and  out  of  the  game.  On  the  other  hand,  if  any 
of  the  attacking  party  see  and  call  out  the  name  of  any  of 
the  defenders,  they  are  out  of  it. 

The  scout  boy  making  the  dash  for  the  flag  may  or  may 
not  be  disguised,  as  previously  agreed  upon. 

It  is  a  good  plan  for  the  attacking  party  to  completely 
surround  the  flag  and  gradually  stalk  the  defenders.  Any 
scout  boy  may  rush  from  each  of  the  four  points  of  the  com- 
pass at  the  same  time.  The  defenders  will,  of  course,  en- 
deavor to  pick  them  off. 

Indian  Games 

In  addition  to  the  woodcraft  learned  originally  from  In- 
dians, which  is  touched  upon  elsewhere,  there  are  various 
so-called  Indian  games  which  have  been  practised  at  some 
camps.  The  boys  have  obtained  costumes,  erected  tepees, 
and  held  dances,  "deer-hunts,"  etc.,  according  to  rules;  but 
the  writer  has  never  found  these  rather  artificial  recrea- 
tions necessary. 

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CAMP   OR    SCOUTING   GAMES 


Map-making 

To  teach  accuracy  of  judgment  and  habits  of  observation, 
maps  of  the  surrounding  country  may  be  made  for  a  radius 
of  two  or  three  miles. 

The  lakes,  streams,  and  roadways  should  be  put  in  as 
accurately  as  possible.  These  are  then  marked  according 
to  the  standard  set  by  Government  maps. 

Feet  and  Inches 

In  two  of  the  camps  with  which  I  am  familiar,  one  of  the 
points  toward  the  camp  emblem  is  the  Woodcraft  point. 
Various  questions  are  asked  to  secure  a  boy's  idea  of  feet 
and  inches.  He  is  given  a  paper  and  pencil  to  answer  va- 
rious questions,  such  as:  "How  long  is  this  tent?"  "How 
high?"  "How  far  is  it  to  the  canoe?"  "  How  high  is  my 
hat  ?"  This  last  is  very  deceiving.  Other  helpful  questions 
that  have  real  value  as  general  information  may  be  added, 
such  as:  "How  long  is  the  canoe? — how  wide?"  "How 
many  square  yards  in  the  mainsail  of  the  boat?"  "How 
wide  is  a  railroad  track?"  "  How  many  feet  wide  would  a 
roadway  have  to  be  to  permit  the  passing  of  two  touring 
cars?"  "Can  you  pace  off  one  hundred  feet?" 

This  game  may  be  competitive — the  boy  winning,  of 
course,  who  gives  the  greatest  number  of  correct  answers, 
or  it  may  be  a  point  toward  the  permission  to  wear  the  camp 
emblem. 

Helpfulness  and  Courtesy 

In  several  camps  in  New  England,  points  of  honor  are  taken 
count  of,  and  at  the  end  of  the  season  the  boys  having  the 

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CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


most  to  their  credit  are  publicly  commended  and  this  ' '  Fel- 
lowship Point,"  as  it  is  called,  counts  toward  the  winning  of 
the  camp  emblem  or  pin.  To  develop  this,  various  devices 
may  be  employed.  One  is  to  have  the  officer  of  the  day  in 
an  organized  camp  make  careful  note  of  each  unselfish, 
courteous  thing  done  and  report  it  to  the  director,  who  may 
once  a  week  publicly  announce  the  points  due.  This  will 
serve  to  encourage  the  boys. 

Again,  on  trips — walking  or  canoeing  trips— the  counsellor 
in  charge  may  note  the  conduct  of  boys,  one  to  another,  or 
particularly  to  the  people  who  are  encountered  en-route.  It 
is  very  important  to  instil  into  a  boy's  mind  the  necessity  of 
being  courteous  to  farmer  folk  or  other  people  met  in  the 
country.  I  always  caution  boys  to  remember  that  they  are 
making  the  way  of  subsequent  parties  of  camp  or  scout  boys 
easy  or  difficult. 

For  example,  a  party  of  eight  boys  and  a  counsellor  were 
going  up  the  Kennebec  Valley,  and  a  mile  out  of  town  dis- 
covered that  they  had  one  dollar  too  much  change  from  the 
country  store.  A  halt  was  made  at  once  and  a  volunteer 
asked  for  to  go  back  those  two  hot,  dusty  miles.  Eight 
volunteered,  and  a  reputation  for  honesty  and  good-breeding 
was  created  in  that  town  for  any  subsequent  party  who 
might  come  from  that  camp. 

Boys  from  well-conducted  camps  are  instructed  to  ob- 
serve the  same  habits  of  courtesy  and  good- breeding  toward 
a  farmer's  or  mountaineer's  wife  that  they  would  expect 
toward  their  mother. 

One  way  to  encourage  this  attitude  is  to  give  a  party  of 
boys  one,  two,  or  three  hours  in  which  to  report,  on  their 

274 


CAMP   OR   SCOUTING   GAMES 


honor,  what  unselfish,  helpful  things  they  have  accomplished. 
They  may  apply  at  farm-houses  for  opportunity  to  help 
bring  in  the  night  wood,  read  to  one  whom  they  know  is  ill, 
go  on  an  errand,  write  a  letter,  or  do  a  thousand  and  one 
little  services. 

Once  in  a  small  village  near  a  Y.  M.  C.  A.  camp  I  saw  two 
camp  boys  put  down  an  armful  of  bundles  and  jump  to  the 
assistance  of  a  shabby,  queer-looking  old  farmer.  He  was 
endeavoring  to  put  up  the  top  of  his  carriage,  but  had  not 
quite  strength  to  do  so. 

Shooting  the  Chute 

The  accompanying  diagram  shows  a  modified  water  to- 
boggan slide  which  boys  can  build  in  large  part  themselves 
with  supervision.  It  affords  an  amusing  way  of  coasting 
where  there  is  a  high,  clear  bank  on  the  water's  edge.  The 
impetus  when  the  car  is  released  and  shoots  down  will  carry 
it  over  the  surface  of  the  water  for  a  little  distance  to  the 
great  joy  of  the  boy  in  the  car. 

How  to  Build  the  Chute 

In  building  the  chute  use  stringers  2x4  inches  of  pine, 
hackmatack,  or  oak,  placed  on  edge  18  inches  apart.  Spike 
securely  on  good  trestle  not  farther  than  8  feet  apart. 
Elevation  25  feet,  incline  80  feet. 

Traffic  rails  of  straight-grained  spruce  or  cypress  4!  inches, 
dressed  on  one  side,  are  laid  on  sleepers  i  x  6  x  18  inches  of 
any  good  available  material.  Use  eightpenny  nails  in  se- 
curing sleepers  and  rails. 

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CAMP   OR    SCOUTING   GAMES 


Guide  rails  of  spruce  or  cypress  J  inch  square,  dressed  on 
four  sides,  are  fastened  to  the  traffic  rails  and  spaced  1 2 
inches  apart  outside  to  outside.  Bore  and  countersink  for 
a  No.  8  two-inch  F.  H.  B.  screw.  Start  the  track  on  a  float 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  water  and  curve  to  line  of  incline. 

The  car  is  made  of  white  pine  ij  x  14  x  40  inches,  with 
three  cleats  2  x  J  x  16  inches;  the  rear  cleat  is  fitted  with 
iron  sole  for  the  finger  catch  of  the  automatic  release.  The 
dash  is  made  of  a  piece  of  galvanized  iron  10  x  16  inches, 
edged  and  rolled.  Four  wheels,  No.  o  Special,  Fairbanks 
&  Co.,  3  inches  in  diameter,  |-inch  face  and  f-inch  bore,  are 
secured  in  mortises  in  the  car  by  the  use  of  lag  screws 
f  x  4^  inches,  tread  10  inches,  wheel  base  30  inches. 

The  automatic  release  at  the  top  of  the  clutch  is  made  of 
a  steel  angle  with  arms  16  and  12  x  f  x  i  inches,  and  is  se- 
cured to  the  post  with  a  f-inch  lag  screw.  The  catch  is  held 
in  place  by  a  coiled  steel  spring,  and  is  manipulated  by 
means  of  a  wire  to  the  lever,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

INDOOR  GAMES 
Seeing  and  Remembering 

This  is  practised  by  having  five  or  six  articles  on  a  table 
and  allowing  a  scout  boy  five  seconds  in  which  to  remember 
as  many  as  he  can.  It  is  good  practice  to  remember  as 
many  articles  as  possible  in  passing  a  shop  window,  then 
passing  again  and  seeing  how  successful  you  were. 

Up,  Jenkins  ! 

is  played  by  dividing  the  camp  into  two  parties  and  placing 
them  on  opposite  sides  of  a  table.     One  side  has  a  coin 

277 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


which  is  passed  along  under  the  table  from  hand  to  hand 
until,  at  a  given  signal  from  the  leader  of  the  opposite  side, 
all  hands  are  elevated  and  must  come  down  palms  open  on 
the  table  at  the  same  time.  Of  course,  the  coin  is  under 
one  of  them,  and  the  opposing  side  may  demand  one  hand 
after  another  up.  If  the  opponents  do  not  guess  which 
one  it  is  under,  the  coin  is  still  retained  by  the  same  side 
and,  vice  versa,  if  they  do  guess  it  correctly  before  the  last 
hand  is  ordered  up,  the  coin  goes  to  the  other  side  of  the 
table  and  the  manoeuvre  is  repeated. 

Identification 

One  indoor  game,  for  rainy  days,  consists  of  identification 
when  the  identifier  is  blindfolded. 

The  campers  sit  around  in  a  circle,  each  having  a  number. 
One  is  chosen  to  be  blindfolded,  and  he  stands  in  the  middle. 
When  all  is  ready  he  shouts  two  numbers,  and  the  owners  of 
these  numbers  must  exchange  chairs.  If  the  blindfolded 
one  can  catch  one  of  those  exchanging  places,  he  must  identify 
him.  If  successful  in  this,  the  captured  one  is  blindfolded. 
The  blindfolded  one  may  also  slip  into  a  vacant  chair  if  he 
can  find  one.  At  his  discretion  the  one  who  is  blindfolded 
may  shout  a  word  previously  agreed  upon,  as  " Boston"  or 
"All  change,"  and  every  one  must  change  his  chair  for  an- 
other. This  presents  an  opportunity  for  the  blindfolded  one 
to  slip  into  a  vacant  chair.  Failure  of  one  in  the  circle  to 
change  places,  when  called,  causes  him  to  forfeit  his  chair 
and  take  the  place  of  the  man  in  the  middle  of  the 
circle. 

278 


CAMP   OR   SCOUTING   GAMES 


I  Spy! 

Part  of  a  rainy  day  may  be  pleasantly  passed  by  the  fol- 
lowing game :  All  of  the  campers  go  out  of  the  room  but  one, 
who  places  a  coin  or  thimble  where  it  is  entirely  in  view  but 
in  an  inconspicuous  place.  The  campers  are  assembled,  and 
the  hunt  for  the  object  begins.  As  soon  as  one  finds  it  he 
goes  and  sits  down,  saying  nothing — the  second  one  does  the 
same  thing  until  an  agreed-upon  time  has  passed.  The  one 
who  first  discovers  the  thimble  now  hides  it. 


Wind-ball 

This  is  a  test  of  lungs,  and  consists  in  one  side  endeavoring 
to  blow  a  light  ball,  such  as  a  tennis-ball,  across  a  line  into 
the  enemy's  territory.  Once  across  the  line,  it  counts  a  goal, 
and  the  ball  is  returned  to  the  centre  of  the  table  again. 

Of  course,  charades,  mock  trials,  and  theatricals  all  go  to 
make  up  pleasant  evenings. 


Chapter   XXI 

THE   HANDLING   OF   BOATS 

T  IVING  aboard  boats,  whether  house-boats,  sailing-boats, 
L'  or  power  -  boats,  may  very  well  be  construed  as  camp- 
ing, at  least  as  regards  outdoor  life  and  many  of  the  essen- 
tials of  food  and  clothing.  But  obviously  it  is  necessary 
first  to  understand  the  handling  of  the  boat,  and  this  knowl- 
edge must  be  absolutely  thorough.  There  are  too  many 
wholly  needless  boating  accidents  every  summer.  A 
thorough  treatment  of  the  whole  subject  does  not  belong 
to  this  book,  but  a  few  principles  and  bits  of  advice  are 
offered  to  campers  on  the  water  in  this  chapter.  There  are 
various  special  books  1  which  may  be  consulted  to  advan- 
tage, but  practice  and  experience  under  wise  direction  are 
always  essential. 

The  A  B  C  of  Boats 

A  boy  should  know  the  parts  of  a  boat  in  a  simple  way,  and 
this  may  be  learned  very  quickly.  If  he  lives  in  a  seaport 
town,  like  New  York  or  Boston,  or  in  a  lake  city,  like 

1  For  example :  Harper's  Outdoor  Book  for  Boys;  The  Landsman,  E.  L. 
Roff;  Navigation  Simplified,  C.  E.  Me  Arthur;  and  Elements  of  Navigation, 
W.  J.  Henderson. 

280 


THE    HANDLING    OF    BOATS 


Chicago,  an  old  sailor  can  frequently  be  found  along  the 
water-front  who  will  feel  flattered  to  describe  the  parts  of 
a  boat  and  its  rigging.  The  parts  of  a  sailing-ship  are  many 
and  full  of  long  names,  but  are  not  beyond  the  ability 
of  any  boy  who  really  loves  the  sea.  Navigation  is  a 
technical  subject,  but  worth  the  study  of  boys  in  seaports. 
The  rules  of  the  road  or  directions  regarding  right  of  way  in 
sailing,  lights,  and  fog  signals  may  be  learned  in  an  hour. 

By  applying  at  the  custom-house  of  any  seaport  town,  or 
addressing  the  Bureau  of  Navigation,  Washington,  D.  C., 
some  very  interesting  books  will  be  sent  free  which  describe 
fully  every  portion  of  the  sea-coast  of  the  United  States 
with  relation  to  light-houses  and  light-ships.  They  give 
full  sailing  directions  and  many  photographs. 

A  boy  usually  begins  his  boating  experience  with  a  small 
cat-boat  or  sailing-dory,  and  in  it  the  principles  of  sailing 
are  learned  as  well  as  in  a  schooner  yacht.  "Beating"  or 
going  "to  leeward,"  "  to  windward,"  "by  the  wind,"  "run- 
ning before  it,"  "close  hauled,"  "running  free,"  "wind  aft," 
"wind  abeam,"  "starboard  tack,"  "port  tack,"  "jibing," 
"coming  about"  are  all  terms  that  he  should  learn  at  once 
and  thoroughly. 

There  is  nothing  that  will  develop  quick  action  and  clear 
thinking  in  a  boy  as  rapidly  as  boat-sailing.  This  is  readily 
seen  in  studying  the  races  who  have  been  sailormen — the 
brave  Norsemen  who  crossed  the  northern  Atlantic  in  small, 
open  boats,  and  the  deep-sea  fishermen  on  our  own  Atlantic 
coast.  The  sea  always  has  and  always  will  develop  a  hardy, 
brave,  strong  race. 

The  various  splices,  knots,  bends,  and  hitches  used  in 

281 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


sailing  may  be  learned  from  the  explanations  in  Harper's 
Outdoor  Book  for  Boys,  where  they  are  fully  illustrated. 

Masts  and  Rigging 

In  setting  up  a  mast  in  a  canoe  or  in  a  row-boat,  be  sure, 
before  starting,  that  it  is  firmly  "stepped"  into  place. 

Always  overhaul  the  running  rigging  and  see  that  none  of 
it  is  "fouled,"  but  that  it  is  all  ready  to  run  clear.  Have 
no  knots  in  any  running  rigging,  and  always  carefully  coil 
up  all  halliards,  so  that  they  will  run  quickly  if  necessary. 

Never  tie  the  sheet-rope,  as  the  rope  holding  the  mainsail 
is  called.  Do  not  stand  on  the  coil  of  this  rope  or  permit 
any  one  to  do  so  or  let  baskets  or  boxes  stand  on  it. 

If  there  is  water  in  a  boat,  always  bail  it  dry  before  starting. 

If  a  squall  of  any  seriousness  hits  you,  lower  the  sail  at  once. 
Do  not  attempt  to  weather  a  heavy  squall  by  reefing  or  head- 
ing into  it. 

If  a  rope  parts,  a  sail  is  torn,  a  leak  started,  an  oar  broken, 
a  mast  sprung,  or  any  part  of  your  steering-gear  is  out  of 
order,  repair  it  promptly. 

In  leaving  a  boat  at  night,  have  it  anchored  with  the  sail 
furled  and  everything  made  as  snug  and  tidy  as  though  you 
expected  a  gale  before  morning.  Make  this  a  rule,  and  you 
will  never  lose  your  boat  or  its  rigging. 

Anchorage 

A  mud  bottom  affords  the  best  anchorage,  and  a  sandy  one 
the  poorest.  When  anchoring,  after  the  anchor  has  touched 

282 


BOYS    GOING    ALOFT    FOR    SAIL    DRILL   ON    TRAINING-SHIP  NEWPORT 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


bottom,  pay  out  at  least  three  times  as  much  rope  as  the 
boat  is  long.  Give  more  if  the  water  is  very  deep  or  the  sea 
heavy.  When  anchoring  a  boat  where  there  is  shipping,  it 
is  safer  to  hang  out  a  "riding  light"  or  lantern  to  avoid  being 
run  into.  When  sailing  a  boat,  keep  your  attention  on  your 
work  all  the  time. 

Watch  a  professional  sailor  at  the  wheel  or  tiller,  and, 
though  he  may  be  talking,  he  is  looking  at  the  sky,  water,  and 
his  boat  practically  the  entire  time. 

In  sheltered  waters  much  pleasure  may  be  derived  from 
building  and  living  on  house-boats.  These  may  be  very 
easily  and  simply  constructed,  and  some  weeks  may  be 
pleasantly  passed  afloat.1 

For  a  small  and  non-capsizable  sailing  -  boat,  probably 
nothing  quite  equals  a  catamaran.1  These  boats  will  sail 
very  fast  and  are  easily  handled. 

For  older  and  more  experienced  boys  a  cruise  in  a  sloop 
or  cat-boat  will  give  an  outing  full  of  new  and  novel  attrac- 
tions. There  is  an  indescribable  coziness  and  homelike 
feeling  when  safely  anchored  in  a  harbor  after  a  day's  sailing 
which  I  do  not  believe  is  quite  equalled  by  anything  else 
in  the  world. 

Power-boats 

Now  that  every  other  fisherman's  dory  is  fitted  with  a 
little  gasoline  engine,  the  art  of  managing  motor-boats  of 
one  kind  or  another  is  constantly  brought  to  the  attention 

1  Harper's  Outdoor  Book  for  Boys  explains  the  building  of  house-boats  and 
catamarans. 

284 


THE    HANDLING    OF    BOATS 


of  boys.  It  is  something  to  be  undertaken  with  care  and 
good  guidance,  but  it  is  worth  while.  Only,  a  boy  should 
learn  l  everything  that  there  is  to  know,  and  his  prudence 
should  be  carefully  tested  before  he  is  intrusted  with  the 
command  of  a  motor-boat,  however  small  it  may  be. 

Camp-yachts 

Some  organized  camps  offer  regular  yachting  crviises,  where 
a  knowledge  of  sailing  may  be  gained  from  men  competent 
to  teach  it  practically. 

On  these  cruises  the  boys  stand  watch,  and  the  time  is 
told  by  bells.  Order  and  discipline  are  observed,  and  regular 
sailor  work  is  done,  like  steering,  laying  courses,  scrubbing 
decks,  and  tending  sails. 

Nautical  Schools 

The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  of  New  York' City  affords  such  a  cruise  on 
a  ninety-foot  schooner  yacht  at  a  very  moderate  cost. 

Under  the  auspices  of  the  Board  of  Education  of  New 
York  City  there  is  a  nautical  school  conducted  on  board  the 
United  States  steamship  Newport.  This  is  a  training-ship 
under  the  command  of  officers  of  the  United  States  Navy. 
There  is  a  sufficient  force  of  regular  enlisted  seamen  to  man 
the  ship,  but  regular  seaman's  duty  is  done  by  the  boys  on 
the  cruise.  During  the  winter  the  ship  lies  at  the  foot  of 
Twenty-third  Street,  and  regular  public-school  subjects  are 

1  So  far  as  books  alone  are  concerned,  Harper's  Machinery  Book  for 
Boys  will  be  found  helpful. 

285 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTTNG 


pursued.  In  the  summer  months  long  cruises  are  taken  to 
Europe,  and  on  these  the  boys  have  an  opportunity  to  learn 
real  seamanship  under  very  efficient  guidance.  Both  sail 
and  steamship  work  are  taught,  as  the  Newport  is  an  auxili- 
ary ship.  Many  of  the  graduates  have  taken  good  positions 
in  the  Merchant  Marine  Service. 


Chapter  XXII 

IN  CASE  OF   ILLNESS  OR   ACCIDENT 

IN  TREATING  WOUNDS  there  are   three   general  rules  to 
follow : 

(a)  Stop  the  bleeding. 

(b)  Clean  the  wound. 

(c)  Keep  it  clean  by  dressing. 

Wounds  may  be  punctured,  like  a  stab  or  bullet  wound, 
incised,  cut  and  lacerated,  or  torn  and  scraped. 

In  dressing  a  punctured  wound,  remember  that  bits  of 
clothing,  thread,  etc.,  may  have  been  drawn  into  the  wound, 
and  be  careful  to  remove  them. 

To  CONTROL  THE  BLEEDING  of  wounds,  three  measures 
may  be  employed: 

(1)  Direct  pressure  of  a  finger  or  compress  on  the  wound. 

(2)  Pressure  on  the  blood-vessels  by  a  tourniquet.     This 
is  made  by  placing  a  compress — some  folded  cloth — above 
the  wound  in  the  case  of  an  artery,  or  below,  in  case  of  a  vein, 
passing  a  handkerchief  or  strip  of  cloth  around  the  compress, 
fastening  the  ends  to  a  stick  and  twisting  tight.     Or  tie  a 
bandage  and  compress  around  the  limb  above  or  below  the 
wound  as  indicated,  put  a  stick  under  the  bandage  and  twist. 
Of  course,  the  strongest  pressure  is  to  be  applied  upon  the 
artery  or  vein  itself. 

19  287 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


(3)  By  the  use  of  very  hot  or  very  cold  water. 

To  CLEAN  A  WOUND,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  permit  it  to 
bleed  freely  for  a  few  seconds,  since  the  blood  will  wash  out 
impurities.  Then  it  may  be  bathed  freely  with  clean  warm 
or  cold  water.  Soap  or  ether  may  be  used  to  remove  grease. 
A  clean  handkerchief  or  any  freshly  laundered  linen  can  be 
used  here. 

To  KEEP  A  WOUND  CLEAN. — After  arresting  the  bleeding 
it  may  be  washed  with  a  solution  of  bichloride  of  mercury 
(i-iooo  strength).  This  is  made  by  adding  one  of  the 
tablets,  which  should  be  in  the  camp  medicine-chest,  to  one 
quart  of  water. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen,  also  useful  in  camp,  may  be  applied 
directly  to  a  wound  or  diluted  one-half  strength  with  water. 
This  antiseptic  has  the  advantage  of  also  checking  bleeding. 

To  DRESS  A  WOUND. — After  the  bleeding  has  been  checked 
or  controlled,  any  clean,  fresh-laundered  linen  or  cotton  may 
be  applied.  In  using  a  handkerchief  or  sheet  apply  the  part 
that  has  been  folded  in.  This  will  be  free  from  dust.  Sterile 
gauze  may  be  purchased  by  the  yard  in  boxes.  This  is  best. 
Do  not  put  cotton  directly  on  a  wound  if  it  can  be  avoided— 
place  the  cotton  over  the  other  dressing. 

Draw  the  edges  of  a  wound  together  with  sticking-plaster 
or  surgeon's  plaster.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  sew  it  together, 
placing  stitches  one-quarter  to  one-half  inch  apart.  An  ordi- 
nary needle  may  be  used,  and  silk  or  hair  from  a  horse's 
tail  may  be  used  as  thread.  These  must  be  boiled  or  soaked 
in  an  antiseptic  solution.  Take  stitches  far  enough  away 
from  the  edge  of  the  wound  to  prevent  tearing  out.  Tie 
each  stitch  separately. 

288 


IN   CASE   OF   ILLNESS    OR  ACCIDENT 

WHEN  DRESSING  WOUNDS. — (i)  Always  wash  your  hands 
thoroughly  before  touching  any  materials  for  dressing. 

(2)  Clean  carefully  any  scissors,  needles,  and  knives  that 
are  to  be  used.  If  possible,  boil  them  before  using. 

IN  CASE  OF  BURNS  the  application  of  oil,  baking-soda, 
flour,  or  starch  will  check  the  smarting  and  pain.  All  these 
except  the  oil  are  spread  on  in  a  thin  paste  made  with  water. 

' '  Carron  Oil "  is  an  ideal  dressing  for  almost  any  burn.  It 
is  made  of  equal  parts  of  linseed-oil  and  lime-water.  Always 
shake  the  bottle  before  using.  Saturate  a  piece  of  cloth 
with  it.  If  blisters  have  been  formed,  open  them  by  slitting 
their  whole  length.  Do  not  remove  the  skin,  but  dress  as 
in  the  case  of  any  wound. 

IF  THERE  is  PERSISTENT  BLEEDING  FROM  THE  NOSE,  try 
holding  the  head  far  back  and  taking  long,  deep  breaths  in 
through  the  nose,  expelling  through  the  mouth.  Or  one 
may  snuff  very  cold  water  up  the  nostrils,  or  vinegar  and 
water,  or  hydrogen  peroxide.  If  this  fails,  plug  the  nostrils 
with  cotton  or  gauze.  Pressure  on  the  upper  lip  just  under 
the  nostrils  will  frequently  check  bleeding. 

A  SIMPLE  FRACTURE  occurs  when  a  bone  is  broken  wholly 
or  partly  across  without  laceration  of  the  skin. 

A  COMPOUND  FRACTURE  is  one  where  the  bone  protrudes 
through  the  skin.  Two-thirds  of  all  fractures  are  in  the 
limbs.  The  skull  and  spine  are  rarely  broken. 

The  bones  most  frequently  broken  are  the  collar-bones 
and  the  forearm  bones. 

SIGNS  OF  FRACTURE. — (i)  Pain  of  a  sharp  character  in 
one  spot.  This  is  increased  by  pressure. 

(2)  Crepitus:  The  sound,  and  in  a  sense  the  feeling  of 

289 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


roughness,  produced  when  the  ends  of  the  broken  bones 
grate  against  each  other. 

(3)  Swelling,  redness,  and  heat. 

(4)  False  point  of  motion  or  a  bending  where  there  should 
be  none. 

Treatment. — In  making  an  examination,  be  quiet,  cheer- 
ful, and  systematic.  Do  not  rush  at  the  sufferer,  and  do  not 
seize  his  bones  roughly.  Make  sure  that  it  is  not  a  dislo- 
cation. To  remove  clothing  cut  on  the  seams  very  carefully. 

Always  compare  the  two  sides  of  the  body — the  injured 
with  the  uninjured  member. 

Set  the  bone  as  well  as  you  can,  and  then  apply  some  firm 
dressing  to  keep  it  in  place.  Splints  may  be  made  of  cigar- 
boxes,  cardboard,  paddles,  or  almost  any  firm  material  that 
will  support  the  limb.  A  pillow  bound  about  a  limb  will 
make  a  temporary  splint.  Remember  in  applying  a  splint 
always  to  pad  it.  This  may  be  done  by  using  cotton,  hay, 
straw,  grass,  or  soft  rags.  Now,  having  carefully  arranged 
the  padding  on  the  splint,  place  it  over  the  broken  bones  and 
bandage  firmly  into  place.  Never  put  ice  or  ice-water  over 
a  broken  bone.  Remove  the  dressing  after  four  or  five  days 
to  see  if  the  bone  is  in  place. 

DISLOCATIONS. — The  most  frequently  dislocated  bone  in 
the  body  is  at  the  shoulder  joint. 

Symptoms. — I.  Local  pain  of  a  dull,  sickening  character. 
II.  Head  of  bone  felt  in  a  new  place. 

III.  Loss  of  function  and  power. 

IV.  Altered  appearance  of  joint. 
Treatment. — This,  roughly  speaking,  is  to  manipulate  the 

bone  until  it  can  be  forced  into  its  socket-     A  finger  can  be 

290 


IN   CASE   OF   ILLNESS   OR    ACCIDENT 

very  readily  pulled  back  into  place.  If  bloody  and  slippery, 
rub  sand  or  ashes  on  it.  As  the  shoulder  joint  is  the  most 
frequently  dislocated  bone,  a  special  description  of  that  will 
be  given.  To  force  it  back  into  its  socket,  place  the  patient 
on  his  back,  sit  by  the  injured  side,  take  your  shoe  off  the 
foot  that  is  nearer  the  patient,  place  the  foot  in  his  arm- 
pit, grasp  the  hand  and  wrist  in  both  your  hands,  and  pull 
steadily  as  hard  as  you  can  in  a  direction  toward  your  own 
body  without  relaxing  your  pull.  Swing  this  arm  forward 
over  his  body.  The  bone  can  be  distinctly  felt  by  the 
patient  and  attendant  if  it  slips  back  into  place.  If  not 
successful,  try  again  and  pull  harder. 

There  is  no  special  hurry  about  setting  a  fracture,  but  a 
dislocation  must  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  possible. 

SPRAINS. — The  symptoms  of  a  sprain  are  like  those  of 
dislocations,  except  that  no  bone  is  found  out  of  place.  The 
tendons,  ligaments,  muscles,  and  blood-vessels  around  the 
joint  are  torn  or  stretched.  Pain  results  from  this  un- 
natural stretching. 

Treatment. — Immerse  the  limb  in  water  as  hot  as  can  be 
borne.  As  the  patient  becomes  accustomed  to  this  water, 
make  it  hotter  and  hotter.  If  hot  water  is  not  obtainable, 
shower  the  limb  with  cold  water.  The  complete  success  of 
this  treatment  is  dependent  on  the  length  of  time  the  limb 
is  immersed  and  the  temperature  of  the  water.  After  dry- 
ing, apply  a  rubber  bandage  and  pour  hot  witch-hazel  or  a 
lead-and-opium  wash  on  the  dressing.  Elevate  the  injured 
part,  and  the  pain  will  be  less. 

DROWNING. — Take  the  patient  out  of  water  at  once.  In 
carrying  the  patient,  always  do  so  with  the  head  hanging 

291 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


down,  so  that  the  water  may  have  a  chance  to  run  out. 
Place  your  hands  underneath  the  abdomen  and  hold  him 
up  for  a  minute  until  all  the  water  has  run  out.  Then 
place  him  on  his  back. 

Be  sure  there  is  no  mucus,  seaweed,  or  other  material 
in  his  throat  that  will  prevent  the  air  rushing  in. 

See  that  his  tongue  has  not. fallen  back  into  throat.  If  it 
has,  pull  forward  and  have  an  assistant  hold  it  with  a  hand- 
kerchief wrapped  around  or  put  a  pin  through  it  with  the 
ends  resting  against  the  teeth. 

ARTIFICIAL  RESPIRATION. — Lay  the  patient  on  his  back, 
grasp  his  arms  above  his  elbows,  and  draw  them  straight 
above  his  head  until  his  hands  touch  the  ground  back  of 
him.  Pull  steadily  and  firmly  in  that  direction,  counting 
one,  two,  three.  Then  quickly  bring  his  arms  down  to  his 
chest  at  the  sides  until  you  have  counted  three. 

The  first  motion  is  an  attempt  at  respiration ;  the  second, 
expiration.  Repeat  these  two  motions  twelve  to  sixteen 
times  a  minute  until  an  hour  has  passed,  or  until  he  breathes 
naturally.  In  the  excitement  of  the  moment  it  may  be  done 
too  hurriedly,  and  it  is  well  to  time  yourself  by  a  watch. 

Having  an  assistant  press  upon  the  lower  ribs  when  the 
arms  are  elevated  over  the  head  is  an  additional  measure 
that  helps,  also  the  tongue  may  be  pulled  out  fifteen  or 
twenty  times  a  minute. 

At  the  time  of  the  Slocum  disaster  in  New  York,  a  girl 
was  in  the  water  more  than  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  She 
was  supposed  to  be  dead,  and  had  been  dragged  ashore 
behind  a  launch,  and  yet  she  was  revived  by  artificial 
respiration. 

292 


IN    CASE    OF   ILLNESS   OR   ACCIDENT 

It  is  not  wise  to  jump  into  the  water  after  a  person  if 
it  can  be  avoided.  Drowning  persons  fight  blindly  for 
life,  and  may  grapple  the  rescuer  and  drown  both.  Use  a 
boat,  if  possible,  and  throw  out  an  arm  of  a  coat  or  sweater 
if  consciousness  remains.  If  compelled  to  jump  into  the 
water  throw  your  left  arm  around  the  person  to  be  rescued 
with  his  back  to  your  side.  Hold  him  so  that  he  cannot 
grapple  you  with  his  arms  or  legs.  If  he  should  succeed  in 
seizing  you,  take  a  long  breath  and  sink,  pushing  him  away 
by  placing  your  feet  against  him. 

UNCONSCIOUSNESS. — This  may  be  due  to  faintness,  poison- 
ing by  carbolic  acid,  alcohol,  gas,  or  opium  (soothing  syrup, 
paregoric,  morphine,  codein,  heroin,  and  some  cough  mixt- 
ures), epileptic  fits,  apoplectic  fits,  and  sunstroke. 

The  table  on  page  294  indicates  some  of  the  usual  causes 
of  unconsciousness,  and  the  characteristic  symptoms. 

TREATMENT: 

Fainting. — Lower  head,  loosen  clothing,  plenty  of  fresh 
air,  keep  the  crowd  away,  rubbing,  give  stimulants. 

Epilepsy. — Keep  patient  quiet ;  prevent  him  from  banging 
his  head  or  injuring  himself;  loosen  collar;  if  he  is  biting 
tongue,  place  something  between  his  teeth  like  a  towel,  etc. 
Do  not  break  the  grip  of  hands. 

Apoplexy. — Do  not  lower  head — elevate  it;  ice  to  the  head 
and  hot  water  to  feet;  move  bowels  freely;  keep  quiet  and 
do  not  give  stimulants. 

Opium. — Keep  the  patient  awake;  tickle  the  throat  with 
a  feather  to  produce  vomiting ;  give  hot  coffee  and  stimulants. 

Alcohol. — Emetics;  hot,  black  coffee,  aromatic  spirits  of 
ammonia ;  rub  to  get  warm. 

293 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


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294 


IN   CASE    OF    ILLNESS    OR   ACCIDENT 

Sunstroke.  —  Remove  to  shade;  fan  constantly;  ice  to 
head  and  wrists;  if  temperature  remains  above  101  put  the 
patient  in  tub  of  cold  water;  watch  pulse,  and  if  it  is  feeble 
give  stimulants  while  in  the  bath. 

Carbolic-acid  Poisoning. — The  symptoms  are  sudden  in- 
tense pains  in  abdomen  following  the  drinking  of  something. 
Mouth  and  lips  white.  Odor  of  carbolic  acid  about  patient. 
In  some  cases,  unconsciousness. 

Wash  out  mouth  with  pure  alcohol.  Give  large  doses 
at  once  of  Epsom  salts  in  water.  Follow  up  with  milk,  cream, 
raw  eggs,  sweet-oil  or  olive-oil,  giving  half  a  teacupful. 

Ptomaine  Poisoning  is  usually  caused  by  eating  tainted 
meat  or  fish. 

The  symptoms  are  pain  in  about  one  to  two  hours  after 
eating,  vomiting,  headache,  fever,  sometimes  a  rash. 

Administer  castor-oil  or  Epsom  salts.  If  this  is  vomited, 
one-tenth  grain  calomel  every  twenty  minutes  for  ten  doses. 

Give  no  food  for  ten  hours,  then  light,  easily  digested 
nourishment. 

Electric  Shocks. — Put  on  rubber  gloves  or  thrust  your 
hands  inside  rubber  shoes  and  pull  patient  away  from  con- 
tact. Artificial  respiration  and  stimulants. 

MEDICAL  HINTS: 

Emetics. — Mustard- water — teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of  luke- 
warm water;  saltwater;  soap  and  water ;  tickling  the  throat 
with  feather  or  a  finger. 

Antiseptics. — Corrosive  sublimate;  a  solution  of  bichloride 
of  mercury  (i-iooo),  one  tablet  added  to.  one  quart  of 
water. 

295 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Scissors  or  knives  may  be  rendered  sterile  by  boiling  ten 
minutes  actively  or  soaking  in  pure  alcohol. 

Water  may  be  sterilized  by  boiling  five  minutes. 

Padding  may  be  made  of  hay,  straw,  grass,  cotton,  hair 
from  mattress. 

HEALTH  HINTS  : 

Toothache. — Apply  a  hot  raisin  or  oil  of  cinnamon. 

Snake  Bite. — Suck  the  wound  and  spit  it  out.  The  poij 
will  not  hurt  you  in  this  way.  Tie  something  around  the 
limb  ABOVE  the  wound  to  prevent  the  poison  entering  the 
body.  Give  dilute  ammonia  internally  or  whiskey.  The 
wound  should  be  freely  cut  around  the  bite  and  a  solution 
of  permanganate  of  potassium  poured  into  the  wound.  This 
may  also  be  injected  around  the  wound  hypodermically. 
Use  three-fourths  water  to  the  crystals  in  making  solution. 

Frost  Bite. — Rub  in  cold  water  or  snow. 

Cold. — Put  on  all  the  sweaters  and  heavy  clothing  you 
have  and  get  up  a  sweat.  Throw  a  hot  rock  in  a  bucket  of 
cold  water  and  inhale  the  steam. 

Sore  Throat. — Wrap  a  pork  rind  around  throat  or  a  piece 
of  flannel.  Gargle  with  hot  salt  water. 

Headache. — Lie  down  in  a  cool  place  and  put  cool  cloths 
on  forehead  if  hot  weather,  and  hot  cloths  if  cold  weather. 

Constipation  is  a  common  thing  in  camp;  look  out  for  it. 
Coarse  bread,  fruit  if  possible,  plenty  of  good  drinking-water 
are  helpful.  Diet  and  exercise  are  better  than  medicine. 
If  necessary,  castor-oil  is  recommended. 

Cramps. — Take  some  hot  ginger- tea  and  put  something 
hot  on  the  abdomen. 

296 


IN   CASE    OF    ILLNESS   OR   ACCIDENT 

Diarrhea. — The  eating  of  cheese  or  chewing  of  starch  may 
be  helpful.  Sun  cholera  mixture  is  worth  trying,  or  a 
quarter  of  a  grain  of  powdered  opium  in  milk,  or,  if  available, 
small  doses  of  blackberry  brandy  administered  cautiously 
under  competent  direction. 


Part  V 
BOY    SCOUTS 


Chapter   XXIII 

THE  BOY  SCOUTS  OF  ENGLAND 

ONE  of  the  commonest  sights  in  England,  on  a  Saturday 
afternoon  especially,  is  that  of  groups  of  boys  clad  in 
khaki,  with  loose  flannel  shirts,  knickers,  bare  knees,  cow- 
boy hats,  haversacks,  and  long  staffs.  They  look  like  a 
cross  between  toy  soldiers,  juvenile  football-players,  and 
miniature  mountaineers.  You  will  come  across  them  in 
spring,  summer  and  autumn  on  nearly  every  open  space  or 
public  common,  playing  their  esoteric  games.  In  summer 
and  during  the  holidays  you  may  find  them  camping  out, 
clambering  up  mountains,  plunging  into  woods,  giving  public 
exhibitions  of  their  skill.  I  had  often  noticed  them  in  the 
past  year  or  two  marching  in  patrols  of  seven  or  eight 
through  the  streets  of  London  with  a  military  swing  and 
precision,  and  their  briskness  and  cleanness  and  intentness, 
their  politeness  if  one  stopped  to  question  them,  had  re- 
peatedly struck  my  fancy. 

Organizing  the  Boy  Scouts 

These  martial-looking  youngsters  are  the  Boy  Scouts  of 
England,  and  the  credit  for  their  existence  as  an  organiza- 

301 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


tion  belongs  to  Lieutenant-General  Sir  Baden-Powell. 
"B-P" — to  give  him  the  name  by  which  he  is  known  all 
over  the  empire — is  himself  one  of  the  ablest  officers  and 
quite  the  ablest  scout  in  the  British  army;  and  his  spirited 
and  ingenious  defence  of  Mafeking  was  one  of  the  brightest 
incidents  of  the  Boer  War.  It  was  during  the  siege  of 
Mafeking  that  the  first  corps  of  Boy  Scouts  was  organized. 
"B-P's"  chief  staff-officer,  Lord  Edward  Cecil,  got  together 
the  boys  in  the  village,  put  them  in  uniform,  drilled  them, 
and  used  them  for  carrying  orders  and  messages,  keep- 
ing lookout,  and  acting  as  orderlies  and  so  on  —  thus 
adding  to  the  strength  of  the  firing-line  by  releasing  the 
grown-up  men  who  had  hitherto  been  employed  on  these 
duties. 

At  the  end  of  1907 l ' '  B-P,"  in  a  series  of  lectures  in  different 
parts  of  England,  suggested  that  scouting  should  be  taken 
up  by  the  various  societies  and  organizations  that  concerned 
themselves  with  the  welfare  of  boys.  The  idea  met  with 
a  success  so  immediate  and  widespread  that  in  order  to 
give  the  movement  a  general  uniformity  a  new  organization, 
called  the  Boy  Scouts,  with  permanent  headquarters  and 
an  official  staff,  had  to  be  formed.  Recruits  have  continued 
to  pour  in,  and  there  are  to-day  probably  150,000  Boy 
Scouts  in  Great  Britain  alone,  and  as  many  more  in  other 
parts  of  the  empire.2 

1  Mr.  Daniel  C.  Beard's  American  organization,  "  The  Sons  of  Daniel 
Boone,"  of  which   scouts   and  scouting    were    an   important   part,  was 
organized  in  1905. 

2  Notably  in  Canada.      While  Mr.  Brooks's  history  of  the  movement 
is  of  value  to  all  who  are  concerned  with  the  scout  idea,  it  will  be  of 
peculiar  interest  to  Boy  Scouts  in  Canada. 

302 


THE  BOY  SCOUTS  OF  ENGLAND 


The  English  Scouts'  Oath 

So  much  for  the  history  of  the  movement.  Now  for  its 
spirit  and  workings.  Any  number  of  boys,  between  the  ages 
of  ten  and  eighteen,  may  agree  to  enroll  themselves  as  Boy 
Scouts,  paying  two  cents  a  week  each  to  the  common  fund. 
But  before  being  allowed  to  join  the  organization  every 
boy  must  pass  certain  tests.  He  must  know  the  Scouts' 
laws  and  signs  and  salute;  he  must  know  the  composition 
of  the  Union  Jack  and  the  right  way  to  fly  it ;  and  he  must 
know  how  to  tie  four  common  knots.  If  he  passes  these 
tests  he  is  permitted  to  take  the  Scouts'  oath.  The  oath 
is  as  follows:  "On  my  honor  I  promise  that  I  will  do  my 
best  (i)  to  do  my  duty  to  God  and  the  King;  (2)  to  help 
other  people  at  all  times;  (3)  to  obey  the  Scout  law." 
The  Scouts'  motto  is  "Be  Prepared,"  and  the  recruit  is 
informed  that  this  means  that  he  must  always  be  in  a  state 
of  readiness  in  mind  and  body  to  do  his  duty ;  that  he  must 
have  disciplined  himself  to  be  obedient  to  every  order, 
and  must  have  thought  out  beforehand  any  accident  or 
situation  that  might  occur  so  that  he  will  know  the  right 
thing  to  do  at  the  right  moment;  and  that  he  must  train 
his  body  in  strength  and  activity  so  that  he  will  be  able 
to  do  it. 

The  Scout  Law 

The  Scout  law  is  comprised  in  nine  articles: 
(i)  A  Scout's  Honor  Is  to  Be  Trusted. 
20  303 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


(2)  A  Scout  Is  Loyal  to  the  King,  and  to  his  officers,  to 
his  parents,  his  country,  and  his  employers. 

(3)  A  Scout's  Duty  Is  to  Be  Useful  and  to  Help  Others. 


STUDYING    THE    COMPASS,     A    CARDINAL    POINT    IN    THE    BOY    SCOUT'S 

EDUCATION 

(4)  A  Scout  Is  a  Friend  to  All  and  a  Brother  to  Every 
Other  Scout. 

(5)  A  Scout  Is  Courteous. 

(6)  A  Scout  Is  a  Friend  to  Animals. 

(7)  A  Scout  Obeys  Orders  of  his  parents,  patrol  leader, 
or  scoutmaster  without  question. 

(8)  A  Scout  Smiles  and  Whistles  under  all  circumstances. 

(9)  A  Scout  Is  Thrifty. 

3°4 


THE  BOY  SCOUTS  OF  ENGLAND 

Patrols  and  Troops 

Such  is  the  law  which  each  scout  binds  himself  to  observe. 
A  patrol  consists  of  a  patrol  leader,  corporal,  and  six  or  eight 
scouts,  and  three  patrols  are  sufficient  to  form  a  troop. 
Each  patrol  has  a  different  name  and  call.  Thus,  while 
a  troop  may  be  known  as  the  Sixth  London  Troop,  its 
patrols  may  be  named,  supposing  there  to  be  three  of  them, 
Wolf,  Cat,  and  Bull,  and  an  imitation  of  the  cries  made  by 
these  animals  would  form  a  secret  call  among  the  members 
of  the  respective  patrols.  The  patrol  leader  and  corporal 
are  the  two  smartest  boys  in  each*  patrol;  if  they  are  also 
the  oldest,  so  much  the  better.  At  the  head  of  the  troop 
of  three  or  more  patrols  is  the  scoutmaster,  who  must  be 
over  twenty  years  of  age,  who  can  enroll  scouts  and  dis- 
charge them,  and  in  whom  are  vested  very  considerable 
powers  of  discipline.  The  scouts  forming  a  troop  are 
expected  to  provide  themselves  with  a  uniform  and  equip- 
ment, though  those  who  cannot  afford  to  do  so  are  allowed 
to  dress  as  they  please.  They  hire  a  club-room,  or  one  is 
lent  or  given  to  them  by  local  sympathizers,  the  scouts 
themselves  doing  the  cleaning  and  decorating,  and  some- 
times even  making  the  furniture.  It  is  in  the  club-room 
that  the  scoutmaster  instructs  the  boys  in  their  business 
both  by  little  lectures  and  by  practical  demonstrations, 
and  expounds  to  them  the  meaning  of  the  Scout  law. 

Tests 

On  becoming  a  member  of  a  patrol  a  boy  remains  for  one 
month  on  probation  as  a  " tenderfoot."  He  is  only  awarded 

305 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


the  second-class  scout's  badge  after  passing  the  following 
tests:  (i)  Elementary  knowledge  of  first  aid  and  bandaging; 
(2)  signalling,  elementary  knowledge  of  semaphore  or  Morse 
alphabet;  (3)  tracking  half  a  mile  in  twTenty-five  minutes; 


REVEILLE    AT    THE    CAMP 


>LKESTONE WHERE    CAESAR    ALSO    CAMPED 


or,  if  in  a  town,  describing  satisfactorily  the  contents  of 
one  shop-window  out  of  four,  observed  for  one  minute  each ; 
(4)  going  a  mile  in  twelve  minutes  at  ''scouts'  pace";  (5) 
laying  and  lighting  a  fire,  using  not  more  than  two  matches ; 

(6)  cooking  quarter  of  a  pound  of  meat  and  two  potatoes 
without  cooking  utensils  other  than  the  regulation  billy; 

(7)  having  at  least  sixpence  in  a  savings-bank;    (8)  know- 
ing the  sixteen  principal  points  of  the  compass.     To  obtain 

306 


THE   BOY   SCOUTS    OF   ENGLAND 


a  first-class  scout's  badge  a  boy  must  in  addition  be  able 
to  swim  fifty  yards — unless  the  doctor  forbids  it;  to  show 
that  he  has  a  shilling  in  the  bank;  to  send  and  receive  a 
message  either  in  semaphore  or  Morse  at  the  rate  of  sixteen 
letters  a  minute;  to  go  on  foot  to  a  point  seven  miles  away 
and  return  and  write  a  report  on  the  journey;  to  describe 
or  show  the  proper  means  of  saving  life  in  case  of  fire, 
drowning,  sewer  gas,  runaway  carriage ;  to  cook  satisfactorily 
two  selected  dishes,  or  skin  and  cook  a  rabbit,  or  pluck  arid 
cook  a  bird;  to  read  a  map  correctly  and  draw  an  intelli- 
gible rough  sketch  map;  to  point  out  a  compass  direction 
without  the  help  of  a  compass;  to  judge  distance,  size, 
numbers,  and  height  within  twenty-five  per  cent,  error; 
to  use  an  axe  for  felling  or  trimming  light  timber,  or,  as 
an  alternative,  to  produce  an  article  of  carpentry,  joinery, 
or  metal-work  made  by  himself  satisfactorily,  and  to  bring 
a  tenderfoot  trained  by  himself  in  the  points  required  for  a 
tenderfoot. 

This  sounds  a  formidable  list  of  accomplishments,  but  it 
is  astonishing  how  quickly  boys  master  them  and  how  eager 
they  are  to  go  and  win  the  extra  badges  awarded  for  special 
proficiency.  Thus,  to  gain  the  ambulance  badge,  a  boy 
must  know  the  proper  fireman's  way  of  lifting  or  dragging 
an  insensible  person,  must  be  able  to  improvise  a  stretcher 
and  fling  a  life-line,  must  show  the  position  of  the  main 
arteries,  must  demonstrate  how  to  stop  bleeding  from  vein 
or  artery,  must  prove  that  he  can  improvise  splints,  diagnose 
and  bind  a  fractured  limb,  must  show  how  to  induce  arti- 
ficial respiration,  must  be  able  to  bandage  an  injury,  must 
show  how  to  deal  with  choking,  burning,  poison,  or  grit 

307 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


in  the  eye,  and  must  have  a  satisfactory  general  knowledge 
of  the  laws  of  health  and  sanitation. 

Badges 

The  most  coveted  badge  of  all,  perhaps,  the  stalker's 
badge,  is  only  awarded  if  a  scout  can  produce  a  series  of 
twenty  photographs  of  wild  animals  or  wild  birds  taken  from 
life  and  developed  or  printed  by  himself;  or  if  he  has  dried, 
mounted,  and  correctly  named  sixty  species  of  wild  flowers, 
ferns,  or  grasses;  or  if  he  has  done  colored  drawings  of 
twenty  flowers,  ferns,  or  grasses,  or  twelve  sketches  from 
life  of  animals  or  birds;  or  if  he  is  able  to  name  sixty  differ- 
ent kinds  of  animals,  insects,  reptiles,  or  birds  in  a  museum 
or  zoological  garden,  and  give  particulars  of  the  lives  and 
habits,  appearance  and  markings  of  twenty  of  them.  For 
the  pioneer's  badge  a  scout  must  prove  his  ability  to  fell 
a  nine-inch  tree  or  scaffolding  pole,  neatly  and  quickly; 
to  tie  eight  kinds  of  knots  quickly  in  the  dark  or  blind- 
folded; to  build  a  model  bridge  or  derrick;  to  lash  spars 
properly  together  for  scaffolding;  to  make  a  camp  kitchen; 
and  to  build  a  hut  suitable  for  three  occupants.  For  the 
signaller's  badge  a  scout  must  pass  tests  in  both  sending 
and  receiving  messages  in  semaphore  and  Morse  at  twenty- 
four  letters  per  minute;  must  give  and  read  signals  by 
sound;  must  make  correct  smoke  and  flame  signals  with 
fire;  and  must  be  able  to  give  the  proper  signals,  as  in 
infantry  training,  to  show  the  presence  of  the  enemy.  The 
seaman's  badge  can  only  be  won  by  a  boy  who  can  tie  eight 
knots  rapidly  in  the  dark  or  blindfolded;  fling  a  rope  coil; 

308 


THE  BOY  SCOUTS  OF  ENGLAND 


row  a  boat  single-handed,  punt  it  with  a  pole,  scull  it  over 
the  stern,  steer  it  when  rowed  by  others,  bring  it  alongside 
properly  and  make  it  fast ;  box  the  compass  andr  read  a 
chart;  state  direction  by  the  stars  and  sun;  show  weather 
wisdom  and  knowledge  of  the  tides;  swim  fifty  yards  with 
trousers,  socks,  and  shirt  on ;  climb  a  rope  or  pole  of  fifteen 
feet;  sew  and  darn  a  shirt  and  trousers;  understand  the 
general  principle  of  marine  engines  and  steam  or  hydraulic 
winch;  and  name  the  different  national  flags  and  rigs  of 
sailing-vessels  and  classes  of  men-of-war.  To  gain  the 
cyclist's  badge  a  scout  must  be  able  to  repair  punctures, 
etc.,  read  a  map,  repeat  correctly  a  verbal  message,  and 


THE    CLOSE    OF    A    DAY  S    MANCEUVRES 

sign  a  certificate  showing  that  he  owns  a  bicycle  in  good 
working  order  and  is  willing  to  use  it  in  the  service  of  the 
government  in  case  of  emergency,  for  carrying  despatches, 
etc.  A  boy  who  wishes  to  win  the  marksman's  badge  must 

3°9 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


score  not  less  than  114  points  in  thirty  shots,  and  must 
show  himself  a  good  judge  of  distance  on  unknown  ground; 
and  the  badge  of  master-of-arms  is  given  to  a  scout  who 
shows  proficiency  in  three  out  of  these  six  subjects — single 
stick,  boxing,  jiu-jitsu,  wrestling,  quarter- staff,  and  fencing. 
Besides  these  badges,  medals  are  also  awarded  (i)  for  saving 
life  at  risk  to  one's  own;  (2)  for  saving  life  or  helping  to 
save  life  without  risk  to  self,  but  where  life  might  have  been 
lost;  and  (3)  for  meritorious  service,  assisting  the  police  at 
personal  risk,  or  for  twenty  various  good  deeds,  such  as 
stopping  a  runaway  horse,  helping  at  a  fire,  etc. 

It  will  be  seen  from  all  this  that  the  Boy  Scout  movement 
fetches  a  wide  compass.  A  week  of  camping-out  when  all 
the  arrangements  have  to  be  made  by  the  boys  themselves 
—the  site  selected,  the  tents  pitched,  the  food  provided  and 
cooked,  and  so  on — is  an  education  in  itself  in  common- 
sense,  competency,  discipline,  and  love  of  nature.  So,  too, 
with  all  the  other  arts  and  accomplishments  of  the  boy 
scouts — the  tracking,  the  lessons  in  observation,  the  sig- 
nalling, the  woodcraft,  the  seamanship — actual  demon- 
stration and  participation  are  the  basis  of  them  all. 


Chapter  XXIV 

THE  BOY  SCOUTS   OF   AMERICA1 

IN  starting  the  Boy  Scout  idea,  General  Baden  -  Powell 
emphatically  stated  that  his  intention  was  not  the  mak- 
ing of  soldiers,  but  of  citizens.  In  planning  for  the  work 
he  drew  largely  from  all  sources,  and  there  has  hardly  been  a 
book  written  on  boyhood  that  has  not  been  forced  to  con- 
tribute something  to  the  movement.  He  drew  more  fully 
on  the  works  of  Ernest  Thompson  Seton,  of  the  Woodcraft 
Indians,  and  Dan  Beard,  of  .the  Boy  Pioneers,  or  Sons  of 
Daniel  Boone,  so  that,  even  if  the  movement  was  started  in 
England,  its  principles  and  fundamentals  were  produced  on 
American  soil. 

All  over  this  continent  the  Boy  Scout  idea  is  springing 
into  instantaneous  favor,  and  groups  of  boys  are  being  or- 
ganized in  the  larger  and  smaller  cities  of  the  United  States 
and  Canada.  Toronto  has  become  a  Scout  city,  and  it  is  no 
uncommon  sight  to  see  from  twenty  to  thirty  Scout  encamp- 
ments on  its  outskirts.  Paterson,  New  Jersey;  Springfield, 
Massachusetts;  Utica,  New  York;  Chicago,  San  Francisco, 
and  a  host  of  other  places  have  seen  patrols  and  troops  of 
Scouts  spring  up  spontaneously.  Cities  such  as  Cleveland, 

1  By  the  courtesy  of  John  L.  Alexander  and  the  Sunday-School  Times. 

3" 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Detroit,  New  York,  and  others  are  now  forming  city- wide 
committees  to  guide  this  new  movement. 


Who  Directs  the  Movement? 

Headquarters  for  the  movement  have  been  opened  at  the 
Fifth  Avenue  Building,  New  York  City,  a  managing  secretary 
and  field  secretary  have  been  engaged,  and  national,  State, 
and  local  committees  are  now  in  process  of  formation.  The 


PARADE    OF    BOY    SCOUTS 


idea  which  is  to  be  followed  in  this  country  is  a  slow  but  sure 
growth,  the  leaders  of  the  movement  being  determined  to 
benefit  by  all  the  mistakes  that  have  been  made  by  their 
English  brethren.  Prominent  business  men  and  our  leading 


THE    BOY   SCOUTS    OF   AMERICA 

educators  have  gotten  behind  the  movement,  and  a  great 
popular  organization  that  needs  but  little  equipment  is  now 
sweeping  our  country  for  the  purpose  of  the  recreational  edu- 
cation of  the  boyhood  of  America.  At  the  present  time  a 
committee  on  organization  is  directing  the  movement,  this 
committee  being  made  up  of  representative  men  from  the 
various  agencies  at  work  among  the  boys  of  America.  Such 
men  as  Ernest  Thompson  Seton,  the  author  and  naturalist; 
Lee  F.  Hanmer,  of  the  Playground  Association  of  America; 
George  D.  Pratt,  of  Pratt  Institute;  Dr.  Luther  Halsey 
Gulick,  of  the  Russell  Sage  Foundation;  Jacob  A.  Riis,  of 
the  Settlement  movement;  Dan  Beard,  of  the  Sons  of  Daniel 
Boone;  Edgar  M.  Robinson,  of  the  Boys'  Work  Committee 
of  the  International  Young  Men's  Christian  Association; 
Colin  H.  Livingstone,  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  and  W.  D. 
Boyce,  the  Chicago  publisher,  are  now  grappling  with  the 
question  of  national  organization  as  well  as  giving  their  at- 
tention to  the  executive  direction  of  the  work  in  the  field. 

The  progressive  and  educational  value  of  the  Boy  Scouts 
may  be  readily  understood  by  a  little  thought  of  the  scope  of 
the  badges  of  merit,  which  are  achieved  by  passing  certain 
definite  tests  in  the  various  subjects.  Thus,  to  gain  the 
ambulance  badge,  he  must  be  able  to  know  the  firemen's  lift, 
how  to  drag  an  insensible  man  with  ropes,  how  to  improvise 
a  stretcher,  how  to  fling  a  life-line,  the  position  of  the  main 
arteries,  how  to  stop  bleeding,  whether  internal  or  external, 
how  to  improvise  splints  and  to  bind  a  fractured  limb.  He 
must  also  know  the  Schaefer  (latest)  method  of  artificial 
respiration,  how  to  deal  with  choking,  burning,  poison,  grit 
in  the  eye,  sprains  and  bruises,  and  the  general  laws  of  health, 

313 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


including  the  danger  of  smoking,  incontinence,  lack  of  ven- 
tilation and  cleanliness.  Besides  the  other  thirty -four 
badges  of  merit  and  the  other  requirements,  a  boy  must 
pass  through  three  stages,  or  degrees,  before  he  can  become 
a  First-class  Scout,  and  so  be  able  to  pass  his  tests  for  the 
merit  badges.  To  become  a  Tenderfoot  he  must  pass  a  test 
in  the  following  points  before  taking  the  oath: 

What  a  Boy  Must  Do  to  Belong 

Know  the  Scout's  laws  and  signs  and  salute. 

Know  the  composition  of  the  national  flag  and  the  right 
way  to  fly  it. 

Tie  four  out  of  the  following  knots :  Reef,  sheet-bend  clove 
hitch,  bowline,  middleman's,  fisherman's,  sheepshank. 

He  then  takes  the  Scout's  oath,  and  is  enrolled  as  a 
Tenderfoot,  and  is  entitled  to  wear  the  buttonhole  badge. 

Before  being  awarded  the  Second-class  Scout's  badge  a 
Tenderfoot  must  pass  the  following  tests : 

1.  Have  at  least  one  month's  service  as  a  Tenderfoot. 

2.  Elementary  first  aid  and  bandaging. 

3.  Signalling,    elementary  knowledge    of    semaphore    or 
Morse  alphabet. 

4.  Track  half  a  mile  in  twenty-five  minutes;    or,  if  in  a 
town,  describe  satisfactorily  the  contents  of  one  shop  win- 
dow out  of  four,  observed  for  one  minute  each. 

5.  Go  a  mile  in  twelve  minutes  at  " Scout's  pace." 

6.  Lay  and  light  a  fire,  using  not  more  than  two  matches. 

7.  Cook  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  meat  and  two  potatoes 
without  cooking  utensils  other  than  the  regulation  billy. 


THE    BOY    SCOUTS    OF    AMERICA 


8.  Have  at  least  twenty-five  cents  in  a  savings-bank. 

9.  Know  the  sixteen  principal  points  of  the  compass. 
Before  being  awarded  a  First-class  Scout's  badge  a  Scout 

must  pass  the  following  tests,  in  addition  to  the  tests  laid 
down  for  Second-class  Scouts: 

i.  Swim  fifty  yards.      (This  may  be  omitted  where  the 
doctor  certifies  that  bathing  is  dangerous  to  the  boy's  health, 


AN    AMBULANCE    CORPS 

in  which  case,  he  must  run  a  mile  in  eight  minutes,  or  perform 
some  equivalent  selected  by  the  Scoutmaster.) 

2.  Must  have  fifty  cents  at  least  in  the  savings-bank. 

3.  Signalling.     Send  and  receive  message  either  in  sema- 
phore or  Morse,  sixteen  letters  per  minute. 

3*5 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


4.  Go  on  foot,  or  row  a  boat,  alone,  to  a  point  seven  miles 
away  and  return  again;    or  if  conveyed  by  any  vehicle  or 
animal,  go  to  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  and  back,  and  write 
a  short  report  on  it.     It  is  preferable  that  he  should  take  two 
days  over  it. 

5.  Describe  or  show  the  proper  means  for  saving  life  in 
case  of  two  of  the  following  accidents  (allotted  by  the  ex- 
aminers) :   Fire,  drowning,  runaway  carriage,  sewer  gas,  ice- 
breaking,  or  bandage  an  injured  patient,  or  revive  an  appar- 
ently drowned  person. 

6.  Cook  satisfactorily  two  out  of  the  following  dishes,  as 
may  be  directed:    Porridge,  bacon,  hunter's  stew;    or  skin 
and  cook  a  rabbit,  or  pluck  and  cook  a  bird.     Also  make  a 
"damper"  of  half  a  pound  of  flour,  or  a  "twist"  baked  on  a 
thick  stick. 

7.  Read  a  map  correctly,  and  draw  an  intelligible  rough 
sketch  map.     Point  out  a  compass  direction  without  the 
help  of  a  compass. 

8.  Use  an  axe  for  felling  or  trimming  light  timber,  or,  as 
alternative,  produce  ^an  article  of  carpentry  or  joinery  or 
metal- work  made  by  himself  satisfactorily. 

9.  Judge    distance,    size,    numbers,    and    height    within 
twenty-five  per  cent,  error. 

10.  Bittig  a  Tenderfoot  trained  by  himself  in  the  points 
required  for  a  Tenderfoot. 

The  Guide  of  the  Scout 

The  guide  of  the  Boy  Scout  is  laid  down  in  the  nine  points 
of  the  Scout  Law,    [These  and  other  requirements  are  pb- 


THE   BOY   SCOUTS   OF   AMERICA 

viously  practically  the  same  in  America  as  in  England,  ex- 
cept for  the  allegiance  in  the  second  clause  of  the  Law  and 
a  few  other  points.  But  Mr.  Alexander's  explanations  are 
added  here.] 

1.  A  Scout's  honor  is  to  be  trusted.     If  a  Scout  were  to 
break  his  honor  by  telling  a  lie,  or  by  not  carrying  out  an 
order  exactly  when  trusted  on  his  honor  to  do  so,  he  may 
be  directed  to  hand  over  his  Scout  badge,  and  never  to  wear 
it  again.     He  may  also  be  directed  to  cease  to  be  a  Scout. 

2 .  A  Scout  is  loyal  to  his  country,  his  officers,  his  parents, 
and  his  employers.     He  must  stick  to  them  through  thick 
and  thin  against  any  one  who  is  their  enemy  or  who  even 
talks  badly  of  them. 

3.  A  Scout's  duty  is  to  be  useful  and  to  help  others.     He 
must  be  prepared  at  any  time  to  save  life  or  to  help  injured 
persons.     And  he  must  try  his  best  to  do  a  good  turn  to 
somebody  every  day. 

4.  A  Scout  is  a  friend  to  all,  and  a  brother  to  every  other 
Scout,  no  matter  to  what  social  class  the  other  belongs. 

A  Scout  must  never  be  a  snob.  A  snob  is  one  who  looks 
down  upon  another  because  he  is  poorer,  or  who  is  poor  and 
resents  another  because  he  is  rich.  A  Scout  accepts  the 
other  man  as  he  finds  him,  and  makes  the  best  of  him. 

5.  A  Scout  is  courteous.     That  is,  he  is  polite  to  all,  but 
especially  to  women  and  children,  and  old  people  and  in- 
valids, cripples,  etc.     And  he  must  not  take  any  reward  for 
being  helpful  or  courteous. 

6.  A  Scout  is  a  friend  to  animals.     He  should  save  them 
as  far  as  possible  from  pain,  and  should  not  kill  any  animal 
unnecessarily.     Killing  an  animal  for  food  is  allowable. 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


7.  A  Scout  obeys  orders  of  his  parents,  patrol  leader,  or 
Scoutmaster  without  question.     Even  if  he  gets  an  order  he 
does  not  like,  he  must  do  as  soldiers  and  sailors  do — he  must 
carry  it  out,  all  the  same,  because  it  is  his  duty;  and  after  he 
has  done  it  he  can  come  and  state  any  reasons  against  it; 
but  he  must  carry  out  the  order  at  once.     That  is  discipline. 

8.  A  Scout  smiles  and  whistles  under  all  circumstances. 
When   he  gets   an   order  he   should  obey  it  cheerily 


SCOUTS    IN     AMBUSH 


readily,  not  in  a  slow,  hang-dog  sort  of  way.  Scouts  never 
grumble  at  hardships,  nor  whine  at  one  another,  nor  swear 
when  put  out.  The  punishment  for  swearing  or  using  bad 
language  is  for  each  offence  a  mug  of  cold  water  to  be  poured 

318 


THE    BOY    SCOUTS    OF    AMERICA 

down  the  offender's  sleeve  by  the  other  Scouts.  It  was  the 
punishment  invented  by  the  old  scout  Captain  John  Smith 
three  hundred  years  ago. 

9.  A  Scout  is  thrifty;  that  is,  he  saves  every  penny  he  can 
and  puts  it  in  the  bank,  so  that  he  may  have  money  to  keep 
himself  when  out  of  work,  and  thus  not  make  himself  a 
burden  to  others;  or  that  he  may  have  money  to  give  away 
to  others  when  they  need  it. 

This  law  of  the  Scouts  is  a  modern  interpretation  of  the 
old  vow  of  knightly  chivalry  which  is  interpreted  so  beau- 
tifully in  the  "  Idylls  of  the  King  "  and  the  boys'  orders  of  the 
Knights  of  King  Arthur  and  the  Knights  of  the  Holy  Grail, 
only,  instead  of  dealing  with  a  language  of  a  by-gone  age,  the 
law  is  couched  in  modern,  up-to-date  phraseology. 

The  headquarters  of  the  Boy  Scouts  of  America,  which 
are  located  at  the  Fifth  Avenue  Building,  are  available  for 
any  information  about  the  Scout  movement.  The  secre- 
taries of  the  Scout  movement  are  ready  to  give  their  advice 
and  help  to  any  Sunday-school  for  the  organization  of  a  local 
movement.  Small  pamphlets  for  free  distribution  have 
been  prepared  and  will  be  sent  to  any  address  on  receipt  of  a 
postal-card. 

21 


Chapter  XXV 

TRAINING   IN   SEEING    CLEARLY 

BEFORE  a  boy  goes  on  a  camping  or  scouting  trip  it 
would  be  wise  for  him  to  train  his  "scouting"  powers. 
Often  the  term  is  heard  in  homes  or  on  the  street,  "Ah!  he 
is  a  good  scout !"  And  what  does  it  mean  ?  It  should  mean 
that  he  can  not  only  row,  sail,  paddle,  swim,  tramp,  and 
make  camp,  but  that  he  has  also  keen  powers  of  observa- 
tion; that  he  knows  from  the  appearance  of  a  dry  stream- 
bed  in  which  direction  the  water  ran;  that  he  will  read  a 
track  quickly;  that  he  will  know  that  an  Indian  toes  in 
and  a  white  man  toes  out;  that  a  bear  track  looks  like  a 
human  barefoot  track,  with  some  slight  difference.  These 
are  a  few  of  the  points  which  an  American  boy  should  know 
whether  he  'is  a  member  of  any  organization  or  not. 

Learn  to  Observe 

He  should  tell  at  once  the  drum-drum  of  a  partridge's 
wings,  the  taps  of  a  woodpecker,  the  chatter  of  a  squirrel, 
the  call  of  a  bird,  and  how  rapidly  a  bird  can  fly.  He  should 
know  the  kinds  of  clouds,  and  what  they  indicate  or  foretell ; 
the  direction  of  the  wind — in  a  general  way  its  force;  and 
how  to  predict  storms.  He  should  know  how  to  read  storm 

320 


TRAINI NG    IN    SEE  I NG    CLEARLY 

signals,  weather  flags,  and  the  different  flags  on  ships  that 
are  seen  flying  at  various  parts  of  the  rigging  and  masts. 

He  should  quickly  discover  any  strange  appearance  about 
his  home  or  street,  as  the  escape  of  water  into  walls  or  under 
sidewalks;  the  smell  of  smoke  or  something  burning. 

The  famous  old  hunters  and  scouts,  like  Daniel  Boone 
or  Kit  Carson,  had  marvellous  powers  of  observation.  A 
falling  leaf,  a  bent  twig,  or  a  crushed  plant  caught  their 
attention  at  once. 

There  are  many  excellent  opportunities  for  boys  in  cities 
and  towns  to  train  their  "scouting"  powers. 

Begin  at  home,  and  let  nothing  be  too  small  to  observe 
as  a  means  of  preliminary  training.  I  have  sometimes  sent 
boys  away  on  trips  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  upon 
their  return  asked  each  one  separately  to  describe  what  he 
saw  and  where  he  went.  The  good  scout  sees  things  that  the 
poor  or  careless  one  continually  overlooks.  Go  up  on  the  roof, 
note  the  clouds — the  varieties  according  to  the  names  in 
the  physical  geography,  and  the  descriptions  on  page  323; 
study  their  general  drift  and  estimate  their  speed.  After  a 
heavy  wind-storm  the  "guess"  may  be  verified  by  reading 
the  daily  papers  which  print  accounts  of  wind  velocity. 

Do  you  know  how  many  church  spires  may  be  counted 
from  your  roof?  How  many  public  buildings?  Can  you 
sit  in  your  room  and  point  north,  south,  east,  or  west  with 
any  correctness?  Do  you  know  at  what  hour  the  sun  rose 
and  set  on  the  day  that  you  read  this  page  ?  Do  you  know 
at  what  hour  it  rose  in  London  and  in  San  Francisco,  and 
why  there  is  the  difference  in  time  ? 

Even  the  back  yard  of  a  city  house  will  many  times  hold 

321 


CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


treasure-houses  for  the  keen  scout.  The  flowers,  leaves,  and 
insects  are  all  interesting.  A  colony  of  ants  will  form  a 
whole  chapter  of  achievements.  The  scout  boy  may  well 
sit  down  quietly  for  half  an  hour  and  watch  them  dig  and 
carry  their  huge  burdens,  or  watch  a  spider  spin  his  web. 

The  parks  offer  many  opportunities  for  the  city  scout  boy 
to  observe  the  ways  of  birds  and  animals.  Every  one 
should  know  at  least  twelve  trees,  and  also  twelve  birds  by 
sight  and  note. 

WEATHER    SIGNALS 

I.  A    square   white    flag   alone    indicates   fair   weather, 
stationary  temperature. 

II.  A  square  blue  flag  alone  indicates  rain  or  snow,  sta- 
tionary temperature. 

III.  A  square  flag,  half  blue  and  white,  alone  indicates 
local  rain,  stationary  temperature. 

No.  I  with  a  black  triangular  flag  above  it  indicates 
warmer,  fair  weather. 

No.  I  with  a  black  triangular  flag  below  it  indicates  colder, 
fair  weather. 

No.  II  with  a  black  triangular  flag  above  it  indicates 
warmer  weather  and  snow  or  rain. 

No.  II  with  a  black  triangular  flag  below  it  indicates 
colder  weather  and  snow  or  rain. 

No.  I  with  a  square  white  flag  with  black  centre  indicates 
a  cold  wave. 

UNITED    STATES    SIGNAL    SERVICE 

Northwest  winds:  White  pennant  above  red  flag,  black 
centre, 

323 


TRAINING    IN    SEEING    CLEARLY 

Northeast  winds :  Red  pennant  above  red  flag,  black  centre. 

Southeast  winds:  Red  flag,  black  centre,  above  white 
pennant. 

Southwest  winds:  Red  flag,  black  centre,  above  red 
pennant. 

AT  NIGHT. — A  red  light,  easterly  winds.  A  white  light 
above  a  red  light  will  indicate  westerly  winds. 

HURRICANE  SIGNAL. — Two  red  flags,  black  centre. 

This  signal  denotes  the  expected  approach  of  a  tropical 
hurricane;  also  an  extremely  severe  storm,  dangerous  to 
navigation.  A  scout  boy  may  get  full  information  con- 
cerning the  expected  hurricane  at  any  station  of  the  Weather 
Bureau. 

An  interesting  contrivance  for  determining  the  wind's 
direction  is  to  make  a  weather-vane,  having  the  vane  swing 
on  a  long,  movable  rod.  At  the  bottom  of  this  rod  have  a 
cog-wheel  fitting  into  another  cog-wheel.  This  last  one 
will  be  set  on  a  rod  which  operates  a  hand  on  a  dial  like  a 
clock  face.  Instead  of  the  hours,  the  directions — north, 
south,  east,  and  west — are  printed  on  the  face.  The  hand 
wTill  point  to  the  one  from  which  direction  the  wind  comes. 

CLOUDS. — There  are  three  chief  kinds  of  clouds — cirrus, 
cumulus,  nimbus.  The  cirrus  clouds  are  the  light,  feathery 
ones  that  float  high  up  on  a  clear  day — the  quality  of  cloud 
that  forms  a  mackerel  sky. 

The  cumulus  are  the  more  solid  clouds,  that  drift  like 
great  white  islands  midway  between  the  horizon  and  zenith 
—the  beautiful,  fleecy  masses  that  one  sees  on  a  pleasant 
summer  day. 

323 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


The  nimbus  are  the  great  towering  masses  piled  up  in  the 
west  at  sunset;  or  the  black,  threatening  "  thunderheads, " 
flashing  lightning  and  muttering  in  their  long  gray  beards. 

It  will  pay  any  scout  boy  to  lie  on  his  back  for  an  hour 
and  watch  the  drifting  shapes  in  the  sky,  and  observe  their 
change  of  form,  their  marvellous  colors,  their  directions,  and 
general  actions.  Some  clouds  drift  leisurely  across  a  blue 
sky,  pure,  serene,  trailing  their  lovely  garments  like  grand 
princesses.  Tiny,  little  white  bits  go  by  in  groups  lazily  to 
and  fro,  and  the  little  children  call  them  sheep.  Then  there 
are  the  scattered  cirrus  that  flame  far  up  the  western  sky 
after  the  sunset  color  has  faded  and  the  sun  dipped  over 
the  horizon.  The  huge,  piled-up  nimbus  at  sunset  rimmed 
with  gold  we  are  all  familiar  with. 

OLD    WEATHER    PROVERBS 

Rain  before  seven,  clear  before  eleven. 

Between  eleven  and  two 

You  can  tell  what  the  weather  is  going  to  do. 

Fog  in  the  morning,  bright  sunny  day. 

* 
Sun  drawing  water,  sure  sign  of  rain. 

Sudden  heat  brings  thunder. 

Three  days'  rain  will  empty  almost  any  sky. 

When  the  dew  is  on  the  grass 
,          Rain  will  never  come  to  pass. 

If  the  sun  goes  down  cloudy  Friday, 
Sure  of  a  clear  Sunday. 

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TRAINING    IN   SEEING    CLEARLY 


If  it  clears  off  during  the  night,  it  will  rain  shortly  again. 

If  it  rains  and  the  sun  is  shining  at  the  same  time,  the  devil  is 
whipping  his  wife,  and  it  will  surely  rain  to-morrow. 

When  the  grass  is  dry  at  night, 
Look  for  rain  before  the  light. 
When  grass  is  dry  at  morning  light, 
Look  for  rain  before  the  night. 

A  sailor's  version  of  closing  and  opening  of  clouds  is: 
An  opening  and  a  shetting 
Is  a  sure  sign  of  wetting. 

Still  another  version  is : 

It's  lighting  up  to  see  the  rain. 

Mackerel  sky  and  mares'  tails 
Make  lofty  ships  carry  small  sails. 

A  deep-blue  sky  is  usually  followed  by  a  storm. 

Red  sky  at  morning,  the  sailor  takes  warning; 
Red  sky  at  night  is  the  sailor's  delight. 

Evening  red  and  morning  gray 
Sends  the  traveller  on  his  way. 
Evening  gray  and  morning  red 
Sends  the  traveller  home  to  bed. 

If  the  rooster  crows  standing  on  a  fence  or  high  place,  it  will 
clear;  if  on  the  ground,  it  doesn't  count. 

Swallows  flying  low  are  a  sign  of  rain;   high,  of  clearing  weather. 

A  circle  round  the  moon  means  "storm."  As  many  stars  as  are 
in  the  circle,  so  many  days  before  it  will  rain. 

If  a  crescent  moon  is  so  tipped  that  it  will  not  spill  water  it  is  a 
sign  of  dry  weather.  If  it  is  so  tipped  that  it  will  spill  out  water, 
it  is  a  sign  of  wet  weather. 

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CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


A  storm  that  comes  against  the  wind  is  always  a  thunder-storm. 

East  wind  brings  rain. 

West  wind  brings  clear,  bright,  cool  weather. 

North  wind  brings  cold. 

South  wind  brings  heat. 

When  the  wind  is  in  the  east, 

It's  good  for  neither  man  nor  beast. 

When  the  wind  is  in  the  north, 

The  old  folks  should  not  venture  forth. 

When  the  wind  is  in  the  south, 

It  blows  the  bait  in  the  fish's  mouth. 

When  the  wind  is  in  the  west, 

It  is  of  all  the  winds  the  best. 


Familiar  Birds 

The  scout  boy  may  also  train  his  powers  of  observation 
and  his  woodcraft  instincts  by  studying  birds  and  carrying 
this  study  as  far  as  possible. 

The  following  table  of  information  regarding  habits  and 
season  of  residence  will  serve  as  a  starting-point,  and  any 
good  bird  book  will  furnish  a  wider  knowledge.  This  list 
is  not  complete.  The  boy  is  expected  to  finish  it: 

BIRDS  OF  THE  AIR  CATCHING  FOOD  AS  THEY  FLY. — King- 
bird, barn-swallow,  nighthawk,  humming-bird. 

BIRDS  MOST  FREQUENTLY  SEEN  IN  THE  UPPER  HALF  OF 
TREES. — Scarlet  tanager,  Baltimore  oriole,  chickadee,  robin, 
bluejay. 

BIRDS  OF  Low  TREE  OR  THE  LOWER  PART  OF  TREES.— 
Sparrows,  thrushes,  goldfinches,  wrens,  bluebirds,  mocking- 
birds. 

326 


TRAINING   IN   SEEING   CLEARLY 

BIRDS  OF  TREE-TRUNKS. — Woodpecker,  warbler,  night- 
hawk. 

BIRDS  THAT  CHOOSE  CONSPICUOUS  PERCHES. — Crow,  king- 
fisher, eagle. 

BIRDS  OF  GARDEN  AND  ORCHARD. — Bluebird,  robin,  Eng- 
lish song-sparrow,  wren. 

BIRDS  OF  THE  WOODS. — Thrushes,  woodpeckers,  wrens. 

BIRDS  SEEN  FEEDING  ON  THE  GROUND. — Robin,  chewink, 
sparrow,  crow,  blackbird. 

The  scout  boy  may  also  find  birds  of  the  meadow  and 
field,  of  the  roadside  and  fences,  of  marshes  and  boggy 
meadows,  of  thickets  found  near  salt  water,  near  streams 
and  ponds,  and  birds  that  sing  on  the  wing.  In  this  latter 
class  will  be  found  bobolinks,  meadow-larks,  song- sparrows, 
kingbirds.  It  will  also  be  interesting  to  make  a  list  of  the 
bird  residents  at  different  seasons  of  the  year.  There  are 
the  permanent  residents,  the  winter  residents  and  visitors, 
summer  residents  (between  April  and  November),  spring 
and  autumn  migrants  only.  The  dates  of  migration  are 
always  of  interest. 

One  of  the  earliest  signs  of  spring  is  the  geese  flying 
north.  Boys  should  watch  for  that.  They  always  fly  V- 
shaped,  with  one  arm  of  the  V  longer  than  the  other.  The 
leader  is  constantly  changing  as  he  becomes  tired.  Before 
an  early  winter  the  birds  will  be  seen  leaving  much  sooner 
than  when  there  is  a  late  fall.  I  have  seen  the  small  birds 
who  live  along  the  sea-coast  all  disappear  just  before  a  big 
storm  and  return  after  it  is  over.  When  fair  weather  is  due 
sea-gulls  always  fly  high,  and  with  bad  weather  imminent 
they  always  fly  low.  This  may  be  observed  around  any 

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CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


seaport  town.  A  bird  whose  nest  is  built  on  the  ground  or 
in  the  loiw  bushes  will  always  run,  calling,  away  from  the  nest 
on  the  approach  of  a  stranger. 

Flowers  and  Trees 

A  summer  of  camp  life  should  add  greatly  to  a  boy's 
knowledge  of  flowers  and  trees.  In  popular  books,  flowers 
are  classified  in  three  different  ways — by  their  color,  or  by 
their  dwelling-place  or  habitat,  or  according  to  their  months 
of  blossoming.1 

In  the  case  of  trees,  the  leaves  and  the  bark  and  the 
habitat  may  be  taken  as  guides.  In  the  case  of  evergreen 
trees,  as  distinguished  from  the  deciduous  or  trees  whose 
leaves  fall  off  in  the  autumn,  the  character  of  the  needles  or 
cones  should  be  carefully  observed.  Whenever  it  is  possible, 
good  popular  books  on  flowers,  trees,2  familiar  animal  life, 
and  fishes  should  be  included  in  the  camp  outfit. 

1  Harper's  Guide  to  Wild  Flowers,  by  Mrs.  Caroline  K.  Creevey,  provides 
all  these  means  of  identification. 

2  Mr.    Romeyn   Beck   Hough's   Trees  of  Eastern  North  America  is   an 
admirable  book,  although  somewhat  bulky  and  expensive. 


Chapter  XXVI 

HINTS   FOR   CAMPERS   AND   SCOUTS 

How  TO  KEEP  FOOD  WARM  OR  COLD. — Food  may  be  kept 
warm  or  cold  by  an  improvised  heater  or  ice-box.  Take 
an  ordinary  wooden  box  the  size  desired,  tack  burlap,  oil- 
cloth, or  heavy  sheeting  around  the  inside  and  over  the 
bottom.  Stuff  with  hay.  If  ice  is  placed  in  one  corner  of 
this,  or  if  it  is  put  near  a  stream,  it  will  keep  butter  or  milk 
very  cold. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  desired  to  keep  the  food  warm 
while  absent  from  camp  a  considerable  time,  place  the  box 
in  a  sheltered  place  where  the  wind  will  not  blow  over  it, 
and  place  the  food,  steaming  hot  and  covered  over,  care- 
fully near  one  of  its  sides.  There  should  be  a  top  for  this 
improvised  box,  which  may  or  may  not  have  a  straw 
padding. 

FRESH  OR  STALE  EGGS. — To  determine  whether  or  not  an 
egg  is  fresh  drop  it  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  If  fresh,  it 
will  sink  to  the  bottom;  if  stale,  it  will  come  to  the  top. 

To  STEADY  PAILS. — A  scout  boy  often  carries  two  pails 
through  the  woods  over  rough  paths  and  is  annoyed  by  the 
pails  knocking  against  his  legs.  This  may  be  prevented  by 
taking  a  willow  switch,  making  it  into  a  hoop  and  laying  the 

329 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


hoop  on  top  of  the  pails.  The  boy  standing  inside  will  thus 
be  saved  this  annoyance. 

POST-CARDS  IN  THE  WOODS. — The  scout  boy  away  from 
home  may  make  post-cards  or  stationery.  A  piece  of  birch 
bark  makes  a  very  good  post-card,  and  if  stamped  with  a 
penny  stamp  may  be  sent  anywhere  in  the  United  States 
as  readily  as  the  regular  post-card. 

If  he  desires  ink  and  has  none  at  hand,  slice  the  top  from 
an  onion,  dip  the  pen  in  the  onion  juice  and  write  with  it. 
It  will  be  necessary  to  apply  heat  to  the  surface  of  this  card 
in  order  to  make  it  legible. 

To  MEASURE  A  TREE'S  HEIGHT. — Nail  three  sticks  to- 
gether so  that  they  will  form  a  triangle,  one  side  having  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  Have  the  stick  that  forms  the 
upright  side  of  the  triangle  twice  as  long  as  the  other  two. 
Carry  this  out  some  distance  from  the  foot  of  the  tree,  and, 
lying  down  on  the  ground,  arrange  the  triangle  so  that  the 
perpendicular  side  will  face  the  tree.  Take  a  sight  over 
the  long  side  of  the  triangle,  moving  its  base  backward  or 
forward  until  the  top  of  the  tree  falls  into  line  with  the  sight 
taken.  The  distance  from  the  triangle  to  the  base  of  the  tree 
will  be  approximately  its  height.  If  the  distance  between  the 
ground  and  the  triangle  is  added  it  will  be  more  accurate. 

WARNING  OF  THE  APPROACH  OF  AN  ENEMY. — Every  one 
knows  that  the  ground  will  transmit  sound  better  than  the 
air.  This  may  be  readily  seen  by  placing  the  ear  to  a  rail- 
road track.  An  approaching  train  may  be  heard  several 
miles  away.  To  determine  if  men  or  horses  are  approaching, 
open  two  blades  of  a  knife  (straight  out),  stick  one  blade 
into  the  ground  and  place  the  ear  to  the  other.  The  vibra- 

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HINTS    FOR    CAMPERS   AND   SCOUTS 

lions  will  warn  the  scout  boy  of  approaching  men  or  horses. 
This  may  also  be  done  by  placing  the  ear  directly  to  the 
ground.  Choose  a  hard  spot  of  earth  for  this.  A  file  or 
screwdriver  may  be  stuck  into  the  earth  for  this  purpose. 

In  the  woods  listen  for  the  cracking  of  dry  branches,  the 
snapping  of  twigs,  or  the  unusual  rustling  of  leaves. 

Do  not  forget  that  the  enemy  may  be  concealed  in  the 
trees  above.  The  dropping  of  nuts  or  bark,  or  bending  and 
swaying  of  branches  will  give  warning. 

Crows  flying  about  excitedly  and  calling  always  indicate 
the  presence  of  something  unusual. 

In  coming  out  of  the  woods  into  a  field  or  clearing  where 
crows  are  feeding  there  will  be  found  one  who  is  acting  as 
outpost  while  the  rest  feed.  If  you  suspect  the  presence  of 
an  enemy  observe  closely  this  crow  outpost.  He  will  warn 
the  rest  by  flying  toward  them  and  calling  loudly.  They 
will  all  fly  directly  away  from  the  danger.  If  a  scout  party 
suspects  that  their  own  camp  is  watched,  circle  and  make 
a  smoke  away  from  camp. 

The  habits  of  birds  and  squirrels  may  be  observed  in  parks 
as  a  start  in  woodcraft.  The  excited  chattering  of  squirrels 
tells  of  the  presence  of  some  one. 

In  tracking  in  Indian  or  war  games,  if  a  spot  where  mud- 
turtles  are  sunning  themselves  is  dry,  no  one  has  passed 
within  twenty  minutes.  A  wet  place  an  inch  or  so  high 
on  a  rock  will,  on  a  clear  day,  indicate  that  some  one  has 
been  wading,  or  a  boat  or  canoe  has  just  passed.  A  clear 
stream  suddenly  becoming  muddy  will  denote  something 
farther  up-stream. 

TRAIL  MARKS, — In  going  through  the  woods  a  scout  boy, 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


in  a  general  way,  may  leave  directions  for  his  friends  to 
follow  by  tying  knots  in  weeds  and  bending  them  to  the 
right  or  to  the  left,  or  directly  ahead,  according  to  the  direc- 
tion in  which  he  desires  his  friends  to  follow.  There  are 
several  instances  in  history  where  women  and  children  left 
such  directions ;  after  having  been  captured  by  the  Indians, 
they  broke  or  bent  twigs  or  foliage  pointing  in  the  direction 
in  which  they  were  going. 

WAVY  LINES  in  earth  or  sand  drawn  with  a  stick  were  used 
by  the  Indians  as  a  sign  of  water. 

FOOTPRINTS.— A  man  in  walking  puts  the  whole  flat  of  his 
foot  on  the  ground.  Each  track  will  be  a  little  less  than  a 
yard.  In  running,  the  toes  are  dug  more  deeply  into  the 
ground  and  a  little  dirt  is  kicked  up.  The  tracks  are  more 
than  a  yard  apart.  A  man  wearing  moccasins  strides  farther 
than  one  wearing  shoes. 

If  a  scout  attempts  to  deceive  you  by  walking  backward 
it  can  generally  be  determined  by  noticing  if  the  stride  is 
shorter,  the  toes  turned  in,  and  the  heels  deeply  impressed. 

If  animals  are  moving  rapidly,  their  toes  are  dug  more 
deeply  into  the  ground,  they  kick  up  the  dirt,  and  their  paces 
are  longer.  In  walking,  a  horse  makes  two  pairs  of  hoof- 
prints — the  near  (left)  hindfoot  being  placed  in  front  of  the 
near  forefoot  (right),  and  the  off  (right)  forefoot  similarly 
just  behind  the  print  of  the  off  hindfoot. 

In  a  trot  or  walk  the  tracks  are  similar,  but  the  stride  is 
longer.  At  a  canter  the  two  front  tracks  are  wide  apart 
and  the  two  hind  tracks  are  together.  The  hindfeet  of  a 
horse  are  generally  longer  and  narrower  than  the  forefeet. 

TRACKING  OR  TRAILING. — It  is  important  to  know  how 

332 


HINTS    FOR    CAMPERS   AND    SCOUTS 


long  since  the  tracks  were  made.  This  may  be  determined 
to  a  very  large  extent  by  the  freshness  of  the  earth,  whether 
or  not  it  has  been  rained  upon,  the  number  of  seeds  or  leaves 
that  have  blown  over  it,  and  whether  the  trodden  grass  is 
dry  or  withered  from  having  been  destroyed  a  considerable 
time.  This  following  and  studying  of  tracks  is  something 
that  one  may  study  daily  at  home,  observing  a  cat's  tracks 
in  snow  or  human  and  animal  tracks  in  mud  and  dust.  It 
is  very  interesting  to  observe  this. 

Information  may  be  gained  from  the  ashes  of  fires — 
whether  they  are  still  warm  or  cold ;  from  the  scraps  show- 
ing the  kind  of  food  the  people  were  eating  (men  in  a  hurry 
would  not  stop  to  cook  or  bake  bread  or  biscuits) ;  the  way 
in  which  canned  goods  have  been  opened  will  denote  haste 
or  leisure ;  the  manner  of  constructing  a  fireplace  might  also 
determine  a  party's  haste  or  leisure. 

In  tracking  a  difficult  trail,  do  it  against  the  sun  if  pos- 
sible, so  that  the  slightest  dent  in  the  ground  will  show  a 
shadow.  If  you  lose  a  track  always  immediately  retrace 
your  steps.  Don't  attempt  to  find  it  either  to  the  left  or 
to  the  right. 

A  scout  boy  can  practise  tracking  by  observing  for  sev- 
eral days  running  the  difference  in  a  track  one  day  old,  two 
days  old,  and  three  days  old,  made  in  the  same  place.  It  is 
good  practice  to  watch  each  day  the  hoof-prints  of  the 
grocer's  or  postman's  horse  and  see  if  at  last  they  can  be 
distinguished  from  other  horses.  This  may  be  practised 
with  dogs.  Try  a  lame  one. 

In  throwing  a  pursuer  off  the  trail. one  may  climb  a  tree, 
walk  out  on  a  limb  and  drop  off.  Walking  in  the  bed  of 

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CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


streams  (either  dry  or  with  water  in  them) ,  walking  on  logs, 
being  careful  not  to  disturb  the  bark,  are  also  useful  methods. 
If  walking  in  a  country  road,  leave  a  broad,  plainly  marked 
track  in  the  dust,  then  a  confused  crisscross  running  track, 
backward  and  forward,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  feet ;  then  sud- 
denly jump  as  far  as  possible  to  the  grass  at  one  side,  enter 
the  woods,  retrace  your  steps  for  five  or  six  hundred  yards, 
emerge  to  the  roadway  again  and  make  another  track;  then, 
suddenly  repeating  the  manoeuvre  of  leaping  to  one  side, 
retrace  your  steps  until  you  hear  the  pursuing  party.  Keep 
under  cover  and  they  will  pass  you,  and,  knowing  their 
manoeuvres,  you  may  shortly  escape. 

Odd  Notes 

A  scout  boy  may  dry  his  wet  boots  after  a  day's  trailing  by 
pouring  heated  oats  into  them. 

Fish  will  live  longer  if  carried  in  a  sack  rather  than  on 
a  string. 

Feed  angleworms  with  the  white  of  a  hard-boiled  egg. 
This  will  give  them  a  fine  pink  color  and  will  prolong  their 
life.  Always  dig  for  worms  after  a  heavy  rain.  They  then 
come  to  the  surface. 

Thirst  may  be  allayed  by  carrying  a  non-absorbing  pebble 
in  the  mouth.  A  piece  of  onion  is  still  better.  In  tramp- 
ing, drink  little,  but  gargle  the  throat  and  mouth  frequently. 
Do  not  eat  snow. 

To  attract  fish  to  a  certain  vicinity  suspend  fly-blown 
meats  over  the  hole  and  let  the  live  maggots  drop  continually 
in  the  water. 

334 


HINTS    FOR   CAMPERS   AND   SCOUTS 

Midge  flics  are  fine  for  trout-fishing  in  the  early  spring. 
Don't  have  your  hooks  or  flies  too  large.  Always  choose  the 
smaller  one. 

If  you  are  not  successful,  look  over  your  tackle.  Some- 
thing may  be  wrong.  Don't  always  blame  the  fish. 

Cast  near  the  edge  of  weeds,  lily  pads,  etc.,  for  bass  and 
pickerel. 

You  will  always  find  fish  in  the  most  difficult  place  to  get 
at.  Go  to  a  little  trouble  and  be  convinced. 

You  can  catch  frogs  at  night  by  turning  a  bright  light  on 
them.  They  will  not  jump  away,  and  you  can  pick  them 
up  in  your  hand. 

Never  let  the  fish  observe  you;  always  hide  in  some  way. 

If  you  get  wet  keep  moving  and  you  will  be  all  right. 

Trout  generally  refuse  to  bite  in  cold  weather ;  and  during 
hot  weather  the  best  time  is  in  the  early  morning  or  evening. 

Hit  fish  between  the  eyes  to  kill  them. 

A  drop  of  sweet  cicely,  anise,  or  asafoetida  on  your  bait 
will  attract  the  fish. 

If  you  wish  to  make  a  cot  in  camp,  before  you  leave  have 
your  tent-maker  take  a  piece  of  canvas  3!  x  6J  feet,  and 
have  him  sew  a  double- stitched  hem  about  six  inches  wide 
on  the  long  sides.  When  you  get  to  camp  drive  four  forked 
sticks  into  the  ground.  Brace  them  well.  Then  cut  two 
three-inch  saplings  about  a  foot  longer  than  the  canvas. 
Trim  these  and  run  through  the  loops.  Rest  the  ends  in  the 
forks,  and  you  will  have  a  cot  that  will  be  much  better 
than  most  cots  sold  at  the  present  time. 

Another  way:  Use  a  gunny-sack  by  cutting  out  the  closed 
ends  and  slip  it  over  the  poles.  If  you  do  not  have  an  oppor- 
22  335 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


tunity  to  cut  the  forked  stakes,  lay  the  poles  over  two  logs. 
Cut  notches  in  the  logs  to  keep  the  canvas  tight.  These 
plans  are  sometimes  useful  in  a  wet  ground.  The  poncho 
placed  over  the  cot  thus  improvised  is  a  decided  help. 
Remember  when  sleeping  on  cots  to  always  put  as  much 
under  as  over  one. 

TALKING  WITHOUT  WORDS. — It  is  often  very  important 
and  interesting  for  scout  boys  to  signal.     They  may  do  so 


BOY    SCOUTS    SIGNALLING 


from  their  home  roofs  by  wigwagging  flags,  the  code  of  which 
is  very  easy  to  learn,  or  by  a  prearranged  series  of  signals. 

In  the  field,  signs  may  be  made  during  daylight  by  the 
Indian  smoke  signals.  This  may  be  accomplished  by  build- 
ing a  smudge  fire  and  waving  over  it  a  blanket,  the  number 

336 


HINTS    FOR    CAMPERS  AND   SCOUTS 

of  puffs  going  up  having  been  previously  arranged  for  cer- 
tain meanings. 

The  code  may  be  something  as  follows:  One  smoke 
column,  ''Come  here."  Two  smoke  columns,  ''I  am  lost. 
Help!"  Three  smoke  columns,  "We  are  going  forward." 
Four  smoke  columns,  "We  are  returning  to  camp." 

Signals  may  he  made  at  night  by  bonfires,  rockets,  or 
waving  lanterns.  It  is  very  interesting  to  practise  this 
from  hilltops  around  the  camp. 

ON  BEING  LOST  IN  THE  WOODS. — All  men  who  have  had 
any  experience  in  the  woods  agree  that  the  first  thing  to  do 
when  lost  is  to  stop  at  once,  sit  down,  and  calmly  think  it 
over.  They  also  agree  that  any  one  may  become  lost.  It 
is  pretty  sure  that  a  boy  who  is  going  to  do  much  camping 
in  the  woods  will  at  some  time  or  other  become  confused 
and  lost. 

There  is  hardly  ever  any  real  danger  unless  the  boy  gets 
frightened  and  loses  his  "nerve"  completely.  Keep  cool 
and  try  to  recall  all  the  landmarks  and  points  that  have  been 
passed.  Think  at  what  hour  camp  was  left  and  how 
steadily  travel  has  been  pursued,  and  about  how  much  dis- 
tance has  been  covered.  Recall,  if  possible,  any  cross-trails, 
streams,  bodies  of  water,  and  kinds  of  trees.  Have  the  fir 
and  pine  trees  changed  to  hard  wood?  Has  the  virgin 
growth  disappeared  and  a  burnt -over  strip  or  second 
growth  of  low  bushes  and  alders  taken  its  place?  Has  a 
clearing  been  passed,  a  camp  or  old  logging  road,  and  when 
and  where  and  how  long  ago  did  it  occur?  Were  the  sun's 
shadows  long  or  short  when  the  camp  was  left?  Was  it 
shining  in  your  face  during  most  of  the  tramp?  On  your 

337 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


right  or  left  side  ?  Consider  calmly  all  these  things  and  then 
see  if  some  clearer  idea  cannot  be  arrived  at.  Having 
thought  over  all  points  that  may  throw  any  light  on  the 
situation,  climb  a  tree  on  some  elevation  and  look  carefully 
all  about. 

These  are  some  ways  of  determining  directions  and  hold- 
ing a  course  in  the  woods  that  may  be  found  interesting  and 
helpful.  Of  course  the  general  east  and  west  may  be  de- 
termined by  the  sun  on  bright  days. 

To  DETERMINE  DIRECTIONS  BY  A  WATCH. — Point  the  hour 
hand  at  the  sun  and  half-way  between  that  and  twelve 
o'clock  will  be  south.  This  is  reversed  below  the  equator. 

In  a  general  way,  north  may  be  determined  by  the  thicker 
bark  on  that  side  of  a  tree.  The  boughs  are  thicker  on  the 
south  side,  but  this  is  only  general  and  not  very  reliable, 
particularly  when  a  boy  is  confused  or  lost.  The  same  is 
true  of  the  fact  that  moss  grows  thicker  on  the  north  side 
of  rocks.  (This  may  also  vary  in  regions  where  wind  blows 
usually  from  other  directions.) 

On  a  cloudy  day,  to  find  the  direction  of  the  sun,  hold  a 
knife-blade  perpendicular  to  a  piece  of  paper  or  a  watch,  and 
a  faint  shadow  will  be  cast. 

A  stream  is  usually  a  great  help  in  finding  the  way  out  of 
the  woods,  for  of  course  it  must  bring  the  scout  boy  out— 
somewhere!  If  a  stream-bed  is  dry  its  direction  can  be  de- 
termined by  carefully  examining  sticks  and  dry  grass  to 
denote  which  way  they  point. 

Confusion  may  often  result  in  following  a  winding  stream 
or  on  coming  to  the  forks  of  a  river. 

I  remember  being  lost  in  Canada  and  getting  a  great 

338 


HINTS   FOR   CAMPERS   AND   SCOUTS 

scare.  It  was  about  two  hundred  miles  north  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Rouge  River.  I 
had  left  the  Indians,  and  was  crossing,  the  country,  following 
the  river  going  south:  A  wide  swamp  intervened  and  I  made 
a  detour  to  get  around  it,  and  in  floundering  about  finally 
became  confused,  but,  struggling  on,  arrived  at  the  river 
banks,  only  to  find  the  river  flowing  in  the  opposite  direction 
from  that  in  which  it  had  been  running  when  I  left  it.  I 
at  once  thought  that  instead  of  travelling  toward  Montreal 
and  home  I  was  going  toward  Hudson  Bay  and  starvation. 
What  actually  had  occurred  was  that  I  had  cut  through 
from  one  side  of  a  V-shaped  bend  to  another.  I  left  the 
river  running  down  one  side  of  the  V  and  came  upon  it 
again  running  up  the  other  side.  So,  beware  of  wandering 
and  stick  to  the  stream. 

If,  when  following  up  any  moderately  sized  river,  forks 
are  arrived  at,  the  main  stream  can  be  determined  by  w^atch- 
ing  closely  the  currents  or  by  following  each  one  for  a  short 
distance. 

On  most  New  England  mountains  and  in  the  Adirondacks 
cairns  are  built  of  rocks  above  the  tree  line.  They  are  con- 
structed by  placing  two  or  more  rocks  on  top  of  each  other. 
In  many  places  scratches  on  the  rocks  will  be  the  guide. 

Blazes  are  scars  cut  in  trees  for  marking  a  way.  They  are 
always  cut  high  enough  to  be  above  the  snow  line. 

Mr.  Horace  Kephart  tells  us  that  he  has  noticed  in  three- 
quarters  of  the  cases,  "The  little  feathery  top,  the  topmost 
little  branch,  of  a  towering  pine  or  hemlock  points  toward  the 
rising  sun — that  is  to  say,  a  little  south  of  east." 

The  bush  and  old  trees  are  thickest  on  the  north  side, 

339 


CAMPING  AND   SCOUTING 


_ 


and  the  rings  as  seen  in  transverse  sections  of  a  tree  are 
thickest  on  the  north  side  almost  invariably.  This  was 
tested  by  the  New  York  State  Forest  Commission  among 
the  black  spruce  in  the  Adirondacks,  and  the  following  in- 
teresting table  was  presented  after  an  examination  of  seven 
hundred  trees: 

North 471  South i 

Northeast    ...   81  Southeast o 

East 106  West 7 

Southwest 6 

Total  north  and  east  .658 — 94%  Northwest 8 

Total  west  and  south .  .  .  42 — 6% 

If,  however,  the  way  out  cannot  be  found,  make  plans  to 
spend  the  night.  Before  it  gets  dark  cut  wood  and  kin- 
dling enough,  make  a  fireplace,  a  wind-break,  and  prepare  to  __ 
settle  down.  The  firing  of  two  shots  in  the  woods,  or  £wo 
columns  of  smoke,  is  always  supposed  to  be  a  signal  of  dis- 
tress. The- smoke  signals  may  be  made  by  throwing  green 
leaves  or  boughs  on  a  brisk  fire.  Build  them  far  enough 
apart  so  that  they  will  not  mingle  and  be  confused.  After 
making  the  signals  keep  a  good  fire  and  wait  for  assistance. 
If  a  horse  or  a  good  dog  is  with  you,  leave  it  to  them.  They 
will  always  come  out. 

Of  course  a  compass  is  a  great  help,  and  will  eventually 
bring  one  out  if  used  intelligently.  The  way  to  do  this  is 
to  fix  on  some  distant  point  and  get  its  direction  as  exactly 
as  possible.  Then  follow  this  line  until  this  point  is 
reached,  when  another  point  must  be  selected.  The  reason 
for  this  is  that  in  the  woods  a  winding  tortuous  course  must 
be  taken,  and  what  the  sailors  term  "  lee  way"  is  made. 

340 


HINTS   FOR   CAMPERS   AND   SCOUTS 

That  is,  while  going  in  a  general  direction,  merely  following 
the  compass,  no  direct  line  will  be  adhered  to  unless  some 
point  is  picked  out  by  the  new  scout  boy  to  be  ''steered" 
for.  In  handling  a  compass  always  get  a  good  one  and  rest 
it  level. 

At  night  the  north  may  be  determined  by  following  the 
north  or  pole  star.  This  may  be  located  by  remembering 
that  the  two  stars  forming  the  front  of  the  bowl  of  the  dipper 
point  due  north. 

To  sum  up  what  to  do  when  lost  or  confused: 

Stop  at  once.  Think  over  calmly  all  the  points  that  can 
be  recalled  as  having  been  passed. 

Climb  a  tree  or  elevation  and  see  if  any  of  these  can  be 
observed. 

Recall  the  means  of  determining  and  following  any  given 
direction  as  laid  down  here. 

Remember  that  the  waterways  will  bring  one  out,  or  a 
good  dog  or  horse  will  always  find  a  way  home.  • 


Chapter   XXVII 

SIGNALLING   AND   SIGN   LANGUAGE 

THE  familiar  Morse  code  of  dots  and  dashes  has  been  adapt- 
ed to  many  other  purposes  than  those  of  the  telegraph. 
It  is  used  in  heliographing — long  and  short  flashes  from  a 
mirror.  It  has  been  utilized  for  signalling  with  smoke  and 
fire,  for  taps  on  any  hard  surface,  and  for  communication  by 
locomotive  whistles,  a  method  used  by  Thomas  A  Edison 
when  a  boy,  according  to  a  story  told  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Adams, 
in  his  Electricity  Book  for  Boys. 

The  complete  Morse  alphabet  is  as  follows: 

• 

AB  C  DEF  GH 

I  J  K  L  M  N  O  P 


W 


9 
342 


SIGNALLING   AND   SIGN   LANGUAGE 

The  sign  language  of  our  North  American  Indians  is  one 
of  endless  variety  and  infinite  interest.  It  includes  signal- 
ling with  fires  and  smoke,  and  by  waving  blankets  or  robes, 
and  by  riding  horses  in  various  directions  and  at  various 
paces.  Here  are  some  examples  of  talking  with  the  hands 
taken  from  Colonel  Mallery's  exhaustive  study.1  The  names 
of  tribes  using  these  gestures  and  of  some  students  of  the 
subject  who  have  made  reports  are  added: 

Above. — In  the  sense  of  one  thing  above  another.  Bring  the 
open  left  hand,  back  up,  in  front  of  and  a  little  to  the  left  of  the 
body.  Hold  the  open  right  hand  several  inches  above  the  left 
hand  (the  distance  depending  upon  the  degree  of  height  to  be 
represented).  The  fingers  of  the  right  hand  are  extended  in  a 
direction  perpendicular  to  that  of  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand. 

In  the  sense  of  above  the  earth.  Point  toward  the  zenith  with 
the  index  finger  of  the  closed  right  hand. 

Ache. — Bring  the  extended  finger  of  the  closed  right  hand  over 
and  parallel  to  the  afflicted  portion  of  the  body;  then  move  the 
hand  sharply  in  several  different  directions  to  symbolize  the  darting 
pains.  * 

Bad. — Close  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  resting  the  tips  against 
the  thumb,  then  throw  the  hand  downward  and  outward  toward 
the  right  to  arm's-length,  and  spring  open  the  fingers.  (Dakota, 
Ponka,  Pani.) 

Bear. — Hold  the  closed  right  hand  at  the  height  of  the  elbow 
before  the  right  side,  palm  downward,  extend  and  curve  the  thumb 
and  little  finger  so  that  their  tips  are  nearly  directed  toward  one 
another  before  the  knuckles  of  the  closed  ringers,  then  push  the 
hand  forward  several  times.  "Paw  and  long  claws."  (Kaiowa, 
Comanche,  Apache,  Wichita.) 

Brave. — Close  the  fists,  place  the  left  near  the  breast,  and  move 
the  right  over  the  left  toward  the  left  side.  (Wied.) 

Chief. — Place  the  extended  index,  pointing  upward,  at  some  dis- 
tance before  the  right  shoulder,  then  place  the  left  hand,  with 

1  Sign  Language  Among  North  American  Indians,  by  Col.  Garrick  Mallery, 
Report  of  the  Bureau  of  Ethnology,  1879-80. 

343 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


BRAVE 


CHIEF 


fingers  and  thumb  extended  and  separated,  just  back  of  the  index ; 
then  in  passing  the  index  upward  as  high  as  the  head,  draw  the 
left  hand  downward  a  short  distance.  Superior  to  others.  (Absa- 
roka,  Arikara.) 

Good, — The  hand  held  horizontally,  back  upward,  describes  with 
the  arm  a  horizontal  curve  outward.  (Long.) 

House  or  Lodge. — The  hand  half  open  and  the  forefinger  ex- 
tended and  separated;  then  raise  the  hand  upward  and  give  it  a 
half  turn,  as  if  screwing  something.  (Dunbar.) 

Log  House. — Partly  fold  the  hands,  the  fingers  extended  in 
imitation  of  the  corner  of  an  ordinary  log  house.  (Arapaho.) 

Tepee. — Place  the  tips  of  the  fingers  of  both  hands  together  in 
front  of  the  breast,  with  the  wrists  some  distance  apart.  (Dakota.) 

Horse. — Place   the   extended   and   separated   index   and   second 

344 


SIGNALLING   AND   SIGN   LANGUAGE 


fingers  of  the  right  hand  astraddle  of  the  extended  forefinger  of 
the  left. 

Kill. — The  hands  are  held  with  the  edge  upward,  and  the  right 
hand  strikes  the  other  transversely,  as  in  the  act  of  chopping. 
This  sign  seems  to  be  more  particularly  applicable  to  convey  the  idea 
of  death  produced  by  a  blow  of  the  tomahawk  or  war-club.  (Long.) 

No,  Not. — The  hand  held  up  before  the  face,  with  the  palm  out- 
ward and  vibrated  to  and  fro.  (Dunbar.) 

Nothing. — Motion  of  rubbing  out.     (Macgowan.) 

Little  or  nothing  is  signified  by  passing  one  hand  over  the  other. 
(Creel,  Ojibwa.) 

Large  or  Many. — The  flat  of  the  right  hand  patting  the  back  of 
the  left  hand,  which  is  repeated  in  proportion  to  the  greater  or 
lesser  quantity.  (Dunbar.) 

Question. — The  palm  of  the  hand  upward  and  carried  circularly 
outward,  and  depressed.  (Dunbar.) 

The  hand  held  up  with  the  thumb  near  the  face,  and  the  palm 


SOLDIER 


YES 


HORSE 


345 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


directed  toward  the  person  of  whom  the  inquiry  is  made;  then 
rotated  upon  the  wrist  two  or  three  times  edgewise,  to  denote  un- 
certainty. (Long,  Comanche,  Wichita.) 

Soldier,  American. — The  upright  nearly  closed  hands,  thumbs 
against  the  middle  of  the  forefingers,  being  in  front  of  the  body, 
with  their  thumbs  near  together,  palms  forward,  separate  them 
about  two  feet  horizontally  on  the  same  line.  All  in  a  line  in 
front.  (Cheyenne.) 

Place  the  radial  sides  of  the  clenched  hands  together  before  the 
chest,  then  draw  them  horizontally  apart.  "  All  in  a  line. "  (Dakota, 
Ankara.) 

Trade,  Barter,  Exchange. — Strike  the  back  of  the  extended  index 
at  a  right  angle  against  the  radial  side  of  the  extended  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand.  (Dakota.) 

Yes. — Hold  the  naturally  closed  hand  before  the  right  side  of 
the  breast  or  shoulder,  leaving  the  index  and  thumb  extended; 
then  throw  the  hand  downward,  bringing  the  index  against  the 
inner  side  of  the  thumb.  (Dakota.) 

Here  are  a  few  explanations  of  sign  language  which  are 
based  upon  the  comprehensive  studies  of  W.  P.  Clark,1  who 
has  included  in  his  book  many  interesting  comparisons  with 
the  sign  language  of  deaf  mutes: 

Bird. — Conception:  wings.  Bring  the  open  hands,  palms  out- 
ward, in  front  of  the  shoulders.  Move  them  simultaneously  to  the 
front  and  downward ;  repeat  motion  several  times,  rapidly  for  small 
birds,  and  slowly  for  large  ones. 

•  Trail. — Hold  the  extended  hands,  backs  downward,  in  front  of 
body.  The  hands  are  in  the  same  horizontal  plane,  lower  edges  a 
few  inches  apart.  Move  the  right  hand  to  the  rear  a  few  inches, 
at  the  same  time  carrying  the  left  hand  to  front.  Then  bring  left 
to  rear  and  right  to  front  and  repeat.  Suggestion  of  tepee-poles 
dragging,  or  a  wagon. 

Wolf. — Hold  the  right  hand,  palm  outward,  near  right  shoulder, 
first  and  second  fingers  extended,  separated,  and  pointing  upward, 
others  and  thumb  closed.  Move  the  hand  several  inches  to  front 

1  The  Indian  Sign  Language,  by  W.  P.  Clark,  U.  S.  A.  Philadelphia, 
L.  R.  Hamersley  &  Co.,  1885. 

346 


SIGNALLING   AND   SIGN   LANGUAGE 

and  slightly  upward,   turning  the  hand  a  little,  so  that  extended 
fingers  point  to  front  and  upward. 

Scout  (To). — Make  sign  for  Wolf.  Bring  right  hand,  back  up- 
ward, well  in  front  of  body  at  height  of  mouth.  The  first  and 
second  fingers  are  extended,  separated,  and  point  to  the  front,  the 
other  fingers  and  thumb  being  closed.  Mostly  by  wrist  action, 
turn  the  hand  so  that  these  fingerc  will  point  to  the  right,  to  the 
left,  and  downward. 

To  return  to  civilized  sign  language,  one  form  of  military 
signalling  by  waving  flags,  which  is  familiarly  called  wig- 
wagging, receives  much  attention  among  the  Boy  Scouts 
of  England.  Wigwagging  may  be  practised  with  the  aid 
of  the  alphabet  and  instructions  given  in  the  signal  corps 
manual  of  the  United  States  Army.  At  sea  signalling  is 
done  with  different  arrangements  of  parti-colored  flags  or 
semaphores  in  the  daytime,  and  with  colored  electric  lights 
at  night. 


Part    VI 
MOUNTAINEERING   AS    A    SPORT 


Chapter  XXVIII 

MOUNTAINEERING   AS   A   SPORT 

A^IONG  outdoor  sports  that  are  steadily  gaining  in 
popularity  must  be  included  mountain  -  climbing.  It 
offers  health,  vigor,  mental  stimulus,  and  a  high  order  of 
enjoyment  for  both  body  and  mind.  There  are  few  things 
which  drive  the  clouds  from  a  wearied  mind  as  does  a  far- 
extending  view  from  a  mountain-peak,  and  there  are  few 
forms  of  exercise  which  develop  the  physical  powers  as  quick- 
ly and  beneficially  as  the  effort  of  climbing  in  pure,  light  air. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  seek  very  lofty  or  difficult  summits, 
or  to  travel  in  Mexico  or  to  the  Alps,  or  even  to  our  own 
Rockies,  in  order  to  enjoy  this  exhilarating  sport,  which 
strengthens  the  muscles,  steadied  the  nerves,  and  clears  the 
brain.  The  White  Mountains,  the  Alleghanies,  the  Cats- 
kills,  and  the  Adirondacks  contain  hundreds  of  lofty  out- 
looks which  can  only  be  attained  with  a  proper  amount 
of  stimulating  effort,  and  which  present  views  of  the  lower 
world  so  broad  and  unfamiliar  that  they  have  the  effect  of 
an  inspiration. 

In  the  White  Mountains 

I  remember  an  unpretentious  peak  on  the  southern  edge 
of  the  White  Mountains,  unknown  to  fame  except  among  the 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


farmers  and  villagers  at  its  feet,  which,  with  a  single  excep- 
tion, was  the  first  mountain  I  ever  climbed.  When  I  reached 
its  summit,  only  some  two  thousand  feet  above  sea-level, 
there  opened  before  my  astonished  and  fascinated  eyes  a 
vision  of  tumbled  mountains  on  one  side,  and  green  plains 
glittering  with  winding  lakes  on  the  other — a  view  so  appar- 
ently illimitable  and  so  wonderful  in  the  diversity  and 
strangeness  of  its  elements  that  I  seemed  to  have  dropped 
upon  another  world. 

I  doubt  if  such  a  variety  of  pleasing  recollections  crowds 
into  the  mind  of  the  devotee  of  any  other  form  of  sport  as 
that  which  illumines  the  memory  of  the  amateur  mountain- 
climber  when  he  sits  by  his  winter  fire  and  cons  over  his 
adventures.  Even  yet  the  remembrance  of  my  first  climb 
comes  back  to  me  like  a  scene  out  of  Swiss  Family  Robinson. 
It  was  an  event  in  my  early  life,  and  probably  has  been 
influential  in  later  years  in  leading  me  to  the  top  of  cele- 
brated mountains  in  distant  lands.  I  was  fourteen  years 
old,  and  the  peak  that  I  assailed,  and  on  which  my  mind 
had  been  longingly  fixed  dver  since  a  quaint  old  hunter 
had  fired  my  imagination  with  stories  of  its  incredible 
steepness  and  height,  was  situated  near  the  southern  border 
of  the  Adirondack  region. 

An  Adirondack  Adventure 

Attended  by  one  companion,  and  armed  with  a  pocket- 
pistol,  and  a  rifle  borrowed  from  a  descendant  of  the  cele- 
brated trapper  Nick  Stoner — a  rifle  that  carried  an  egg-shaped 
bullet,  the  like  of  which  I  have  never  seen  since — I  started 
one  day  for  the  peak,  which  was  locally  known  as  the  * '  Pin- 

352 


MOUNTAINEERING   AS   A    SPORT 

nacle."  It  rose  in  the  outskirts  of  the  wilderness,  and  was 
so  remote  from  the  nearest  settlement  that  it  was  nearly 
nightfall  when  my  companion  and  I  arrived  at  a  pioneer's 
barn  by  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  unhitching  our  weary 
horse  found  him  a  comfortable  lodging  for  the  night. 

Then  we  struck  into  the  woods,  notwithstanding  the 
gathering  darkness,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  realized,  with  a 
thrill  of  excitement,  that  the  slopes  of  the  magic  peak  which 
had  so  mastered  my  fancy  were  actually  under  my  feet 
and  rapidly  lifting  me  skyward,  as  I  stumbled  over  the 
broken  rocks,  helping  myself  up  with  the  aid  of  trees  and 
undergrowth.  My  companion  was  much  older  than  I,  but 
the  climbing  soon  became  so  stiff  that  he  had  all  he  could 
do  to  pull  himself  up  without  aiding  me,  and  I  struggled 
desperately  in  the  deepening  gloom,  now  on  my  knees,  now 
on  all-fours,  and  occasionally  swinging  by  my  arms  from 
roots  or  branches  projecting  over  the  edge  of  a  miniature 
precipice.  My  face  was  scratched  with  invisible  brambles, 
my  hands  were  cut  by  the  sharp  edges  of  rocks,  and  the 
jagged  points  of  broken  pine  and  hemlock  limbs  made  havoc 
with  my  clothing.  How  we  managed  to  get  the  heavy  rifle 
up  I  don't  remember.  I  am  certain  /  didn't  carry  it. 

It  was  pitch-dark  long  before  we  reached  the  summit. 
Stunted  evergreen-trees  covered  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
but  we  found  a  comparatively  open  place  in  an  angle  of 
rocks  on  one  side,  a  few  yards  down,  and  there  we  made  a 
bed  of  pine  twigs,  and,  collecting  a  heap  of  dead  branches, 
soon  had  a  roaring  fire  at  our  feet.  On  one  side  lay  the 
wilderness,  a  great  dark  gulf  beneath  us,  where  nothing 
could  be  clearly  distinguished,  and  which  seemed  to  stretch 

353 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


away  without  boundaries.  From  among  its  trees  the  cries 
of  wild  animals  came  up  to  our  ears.  In  the  opposite  direc- 
tion, at  a  distance  of  a  few  miles,  the  open  country  began, 
and  we  could  distinguish  far  away  the  glimmering  lights 
of  a  settlement.  In  an  hour  the  moon  rose  and  shed  a  faint 
illumination  over  the  scene.  With  the  pistol  grasped  in 
my  hand  and  the  rifle  lying  between  us,  we  fell  asleep,  and 
I  never  slept  more  soundly. 

In  the  morning  the  wilderness  was  like  a  green  ocean 
surrounding  our  island  peak.  We  had  brought  our  break- 
fast in  our  pockets,  and  after  it  was  disposed  of  we  started 
to  descend  the  mountain  on  another  side,  attracted  by  a 
lake  that  we  had  noticed  shining  in  the  light  of  the  moon. 
But  unwittingly  we  had  chosen  the  worst  possible  place 
for  descent.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  involved  among 
perpendicular  cliffs  and  headlong  pitches  of  the  mountain- 
side, which  seemed  to  our  inexperience  truly  frightful.  At 
length  we  came  upon  the  dizzy  brow  of  a  precipice  which 
was  too  smooth  to  afford  any  foothold.  The  cliffs  towering 
behind  seemed  to  forbid  return,  and  we  searched  anxiously 
for  a  place  where  descent  could  be  made.  Fortune  directed 
us  to  a  dead  pine  which  had  fallen  against  the  face  of  the 
precipice  and  remained  leaning  there.  Down  this  we  went, 
tearing  our  clothes  and  our  skin,  but  glad  of  even  this  chance 
to  escape  from  our  difficulty. 

Near  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  came  upon  unmistak- 
able traces  of  the  presence  of  bears,  and  kept  on  the  qui  vive 
for  dangerous  enemies,  but  none  appeared.  Another  dan- 
ger, however,  soon  manifested  itself  in  the  evident  fact 
that  we  had  lost  our  way.  Involved  in  a  "windfall,"  we 

354 


MOUNTAINEERING    AS   A   SPORT 

struggled  desperately  with  the  tangled  mass  of  broken 
branches  and  upturned  roots,  until,  after  spending  the 
greater  part  of  the  forenoon  in  advancing  perhaps  half  a 
mile,  we  got  our  bearings,  after  the  manner  of  Natty  Bumpo, 
by  climbing  a  tree  and  taking  a  look  around.  From  our 
observing  tree  a  vista  fortunately  opened  in  the  direction 
of  the  lake.  But  when  we  approached  the  latter  we  found 
that  it  was  surrounded  with  swamps,  which  prevented  us 
from  reaching  the  shore,  and  we  had  to  turn  in  another 
direction.  This  time,  without  knowing  it,  we  were  steering 
the  right  way,  and  when  we  came  upon  a  hunters'  or  loggers' 
trail  all  our  difficulties  blended  into  the  single  one  of  tramp- 
ing for  a  few  hours  without  food  on  a  path  that  was  weari- 
somely long,  but  which  led  out  of  the  wilderness. 

I  have  recalled  this  youthful  adventure  as  an  example 
which  shows  how  near  at  hand  lie  the  fields  in  which  the 
amateur  may  learn  at  least  some  of  the  elements  of  moun- 
taineering in  its  simpler  forms.  But  the  difficulties,  ap- 
proaching in  some  instances  toward  peril,  that  attended 
my  first  climb,  need  not  necessarily  be  faced.  The  ascent 
of  Mount  Washington,  Mount  Adams,  Mount  Monroe, 
Mount  Jefferson,  Mount  Lafayette,  and  other  well-known 
peaks  in  New  Hampshire,  although  somewhat  trying  on 
unpractised  muscles,  presents  no  danger  and  no  real  diffi- 
culty. On  the  other  hand,  it  is  inspiring  in  a  high  degree, 
and  when  Mount  Washington  is  enveloped  in  driving  clouds, 
or  lashed  by  a  gale  spitting  hail  and  snow,  it  often  presents 
views  which,  for  grandeur  and  dramatic  effect,  are  not 
much  inferior  to  the  most  famous  spectacles  of  the  high 
Alps. 

355 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


For  climbs  like  those  that  the  mountains  of  the  Atlantic 
seaboard  afford,  of  course,  no  such  elaborate  outfits  and  no 
such  preliminary  training  as  Alpine  climbing  calls  for  are 
needed.  Stout  shoes  studded  with  iron  nails,  a  strong  iron- 
shod  staff,  strong  but  not  cumbrous  clothing,  and  a  pack 
containing  a  small  supply  of  food  are  the  principal  neces- 
saries. The  increased  breathing-power  and  the  elasticity 
of  muscle  come  of  themselves  after  a  little  practice.  Indeed, 
in  this  respect  the  mountains  possess  an  almost  magical 
stimulus.  The  first  time  I  climbed  Mount  Adams  I  was 
almost  "tuckered  out,"  and  a  companion  with  me  was 
made  sick  by  his  exertions.  Within  a  week  we  ascended 
Mount  Adams  again,  and  then  tramped  over  the  top  of 
the  entire  Presidential  range,  without  the  slightest  discom- 
fort, but,  on  the  contrary,  with  that  sense  of  physical  power 
which  is  popularly  said  to  "make  a  new  man"  of  one. 

Mount  Tacoma  or  Rainier 

There  is  one  of  our  Western  mountains,  whose  vast  snow- 
clad  form  rises  with  a  peculiar  fascination  before  my  mind's 
eye  as  I  write — Mount  Tacoma  (Mount  Rainier),  standing 
at  the  head  of  Puget  Sound,  and  looking  down  upon  the 
city  that  bears  its  name.  Many  years  ago  I  started  one 
day  from  the  city  of  Tacoma  to  visit  an  enormous  cavity  in 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  containing  Crater  Lake.  Colonel 
F.  G.  Plummer  and  two  other  gentlemen  from  Tacoma 
accompanied  me.  The  expedition  really  began  at  a  mining 
settlement  near  the  base  of  the  mountain.  There  we  laid 
in  a  stock  of  provisions,  and  hired  saddle-horses  and  a 

356 


MOUNTAINEERING   AS   A   SPORT 

pack-pony.  Early  the  next  morning  we  started  out  on  a 
mountain  trail  toward  the  peak.  Within  five  minutes  from 
the  start  the  immense  forest  that  clothes  all  the  lower 
slopes  of  Mount  Tacoma  had  swallowed  us  up.  All  day  we 
rode,  gradually  ascending,  and  stopping  at  noon  to  make  a 
fire  to  boil  coffee  and  fry  bacon. 


MOUNT    RAINIER 

The  first  experience  that  smacked  of  adventure  was  the 
fording  of  the  Carbon  River,  swollen  with  recent  rains. 
Here  I  learned  to  appreciate  the  surefootedness  and  intelli- 
gence of  the  gray  pony  that  I  rode.  The  yellow  water  was 

357 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


rushing  angrily  between  its  banks,  and  of  course  the  bottom 
could  not  be  seen.  But  we  knew  it  was  rough  with  boulders, 
for  in  places  large  rocks  rose  nearly  to  the  surface,  and  round 
these  the  water  whirled  with  dizzying  speed.  Two  pros- 
pectors, encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  stream,  watched  our 
attempt  with  breathless  interest.  They  were  prudently 
awaiting  the  subsidence  of  the  river. 

The  moment  we  entered  the  water  my  little  gray  plunged 
up  to  her  throat.  If  I  had  thought  of  the  possibility 
of  keeping  my  feet  dry  I  instantly  abandoned  the  idea  now. 
The  water  swirled  around  the  saddle-flaps,  and  I  expected 
every  moment  to  find  my  horse  down  and  myself  swept 
away  by  the  angry  current.  But  the  pony,  with  ears 
pricked,  seemed  to  feel  her  way  over  the  rough  bottom,  turn- 
ing aside  when  her  knees  struck  an  invisible  rock,  bracing 
her  body  against  the  push  of  the  rushing  water,  and  raising 
herself  and  me  after  every  stumble  in  a  manner  that  was 
truly  wonderful.  Once  down,  I  believe  there  would  not 
have  been  one  chance  in  a  hundred  for  us  to  reach  shore. 
And  apparently  the  pony  knew  the  danger  just  as  well 
as  I  did. 

When  we  emerged  dripping  on  the  opposite  bank  I  could 
not  help  uttering  an  exultant  shout.  I  could  sympathize 
then  with  the  feelings  of  the  cowboy  who,  with  a  good  horse 
beneath  him  and  perils  left  behind,  cannot  restrain  the 
tendency  to  "let  himself  out"  with  a  yell. 

The  horses  of  the  other  members  of  the  party  had  a  slight 
advantage  in  their  greater  weight  and  height,  but  they  did 
not  make  a  more  creditable  crossing  than  that  of  the  little 
gray. 

358 


MOUNTAINEERING    AS    A    SPORT 


In  a  Wonderful  Forest 

At  nightfall  we  encamped  beside  an  ice-cold  rivulet, 
under  the  roof  of  the  grandest  forest  I  have  ever  seen.  Our 
camp-fire  roared  near  the  foot  of  a  Douglas  spruce,  whose 
trunk  was  eight  or  ten  feet  thick,  and  which  rose  to  a  height 
of  at  least  two  hundred  feet.  We  had  ridden  the  entire  day 
through  an  unbroken  forest  of  such  trees,  many  of  which 
were  still  larger  than  this  specimen,  and  their  canopy  of 
leaves,  high  above  our  heads — the  first  branches  appearing 
about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  ground — together  with 
the  innumerable  great  trunks,  towering  straight  as  marble 
columns,  produced  an  indescribable  sense  of  spaciousness. 

In  the  middle  of  the  night  a  sprinkling  in  my  face  awoke 
me.  I  found  the  fire  sputtering,  and  a  fine  rain  falling 
through  the  thick  branches  overhead.  Our  horses,  which 
had  been  turned  loose,  were  standing  in  a  circle  around  the 
camp,  wistfully  poking  their  noses  toward  the  light  and 
warmth  of  the  fire.  I  awoke  the  others,  and  we  piled  more 
wood  on  the  embers,  fanned  up  the  flames,  and  stretched 
the  canvas  of  a  small  tent  across  short  poles  to  keep  the 
rain  from  our  faces.  For  the  rest  we  trusted  the  fire. 

When  day  broke  it  was  raining  fast.  We  made  a  hasty 
breakfast,  saddled  our  horses,  and  quickly  found  ourselves 
ascending  a  main  spur  of  the  mountain.  The  same  immense 
trees  yet  surrounded  us:  And  now  I  had  reason  to  admire 
still  more  the  agility  and  intelligence  of  my  pony.  Occa- 
sionally we  got  into  a  tangle  of  fallen  timber,  where  progress 
with  horses  seemed  impossible.  The  first  time  this  occurred 
the  little  gray  astonished  me  by  leaping,  with  me  on  her 

359 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


back,  over  the  obstructions,  until  she  had  extricated  herself 
from  the  maze.  There  seemed  to  be  nothing  that  she  could 
not  do.  She  carried  me  up  slopes  as  steep  as  a  barn  roof, 
and  so  close  along  the  verge  of  precipices  that  my  outer 
stirrup  appeared  to  project  over  the  edge.  I  had  learned 
to  place  the  utmost  confidence  in  her,  and  gave  her  her 
head  in  all  difficult  places. 

Midsummer   Snowbanks 

When  we  arrived  near  Crater  Lake  we  found  ourselves 
travelling  over  enormous  snowbanks,  although  it  was  the 
beginning  of  July.  We  ascended  on  the  back  of  the  cliffs 
overhanging  the  lake  to  an  elevation  of  sohie  six  thousand 
feet,  and  fried  our  bacon  at  a  fire  built  on  the  snow,  in  which 
we  soon  melted  a  large  hole.  Here  my  pony  performed  a 
feat  which  threw  her  preceding  exploits  into  the  shade. 
In  order  to  reach  a  point  near  the  rim  of  the  crater-like 
depression  in  which  the  lake  lay  it  was  necessary  to  cross 
a  broad  slope  of  hard  snow  which,  judged  by  the  eye,  lay 
at  an  angle  of  at  least  forty-five  degrees.  The  others  dis- 
mounted and  carefully  led  their  horses  across,  but  the 
gray  no  sooner  approached  the  slope  than,  without  waiting 
for  me  to  dismount,  she  sprang  upon  it  and  began  to  cross. 
Colonel  Plummer  shouted  a  warning,  but  it  seemed  too  late 
to  stop,  and  safer  now  to  go  on.  The  pony's  shapely  little 
hoofs,  without  shoes,  cut  perhaps  an  inch  into  the  hard 
white  surface  and  gave  her  a  grip  which  she  lost  only  once. 
When  my  friends  saw  her  slip  on  that  occasion  they  ex- 
pected to  behold  us  both,  horse  and  man,  shoot  to  the  bot- 

360 


MOUNTAINEERING   AS    A    SPORT 

torn  of  the  slope,  hundreds  of  feet  below.  But  the  quick- 
witted animal  caught  another  hold  before  her  flank  touched 
the  snow,  and  then,  with  the  utmost  sangfroid,  she  carried 
me  across  the  remainder  of  the  incline  without  an  accident, 


MISQUALLY   GLACIER,    MOUNT    RAINIER 

and  accepted  a  lump  of  sugar  from  our  small  store  as  ample 
reward  for  her  dexterity. 

On  our  return  down  the  mountain  it  began  to  rain  again, 
and  we  were  soon  wet  to  the  skin.     Regaining  our  camp 

361 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


at  nightfall,  we  found  it  necessary  to  split  open  the  largest 
dead  timber  we  could  find  in  order  to  obtain  wood  dry 
enough  to  light  a  fire.  Our  tent  was  too  light  effectually 
to  keep  off  the  rain,  but  we  succeeded  in  making  a  roaring 
blaze  in  the  hollow  left  by  the  roots  of  an  upturned  giant 
tree,  and  placing  the  open  end  of  the  tent  next  to  the  fire, 
and  as  close  as  prudence  allowed,  we  dried  our  boots, 
wrapped  ourselves  in  blankets,  and,  lying  down  amid  the 
wet,  slept  soundly .  Anywhere  else  I  should  have  expected 
to  come  out  of  such  an  experience  with  a  well-developed 
case  of  lumbago  or  rheumatism.  But  in  the  morning  not 
one  of  us  had  a  stiff  joint  or  a  touch  of  pain. 


The  Health-giving  Mountains 


And  this  illustrates  another  peculiarity  of  the  mountains 
which  adds  largely  to  their  charm.  You  don't  ' '  catch  cold  " 
among  them  as  you  do  in  the  heavy,  surcharged  air  of  the 
lowlands.  Evaporation  goes  on  more  quickly  in  light  air, 
and  the  blood  is  invigorated  to  such  a  degree  that  the  body 
more  effectually  resists  a  chill.  In  fact,  all  ordinary  physical 
ills  seem  to  be  more  easily  borne  and  overcome  on  the  moun- 
tains. I  was  once  caught  in  a  snow  hurricane  near  the 
summit  of  Mont  Blanc,  and  was  compelled  to  pass  thirty- 
six  hours  in  a  rough  refuge-hut  nearly  15,000  feet  above 
sea-level,  in  the  midst  of  a  tempest  which,  in  its  wildest 
moments,  almost  seemed  capable  of  stripping  the  mountain 
bare  to  its  ribs.  My  shoes  were  so  thoroughly  soaked  that 
when  I  pulled  them  off  the  leather  in  a  little  while  appeared 
to  freeze  solid.  I  was  wearied  nearly  to  exhaustion  with 

362 


MOUNTAINEERING   AS   A    SPORT 

battling  against  the  storm  and  seeking  a  refuge  through  the 
blinding,  driving  snow,  which  was  as  fine  as  bird-shot,  and 
as  hard.  We  had  no  fire,  and,  after  a  few  hours,  no  food; 
every  element  for  the  foundation  of  a  lifelong  infirmity 
seemed  to  be  present ;  and  yet  when  the  storm  cleared, 
and  we  glissaded  down  the  great  white  slopes  to  Chamonix, 


AN  ALPINE  PILGRIMS'   PROGRESS 

I  immediately  entered  upon  a  period  of  bodily  health  t  and 
vigor. 

Yet,  as  I  remarked  at  the  beginning,  it  is  by  no  means 
necessary  to  travel  far,  or  to  attack  lofty  and  formidable 
peaks,  or  to  undergo  great  fatigue  and  the  perils  of  snow 
and  ice  in  order  to  enjoy  many  of  the  delights  of  mountain- 
eering. A  mountain  that  lifts  its  head  a  mile  above  sea- 
level  affords  a  much  finer  view  than  do  summits  three  or 
four  miles  high.  From  the  greater  heights  all  detail  is  lost, 
and,  of  necessity,  their  immediate  surroundings  are  savage, 

363 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


and  lacking  the  charm  and  interest  which  arise  from  the 
marks  of  human  occupation.  In  my  own  experience,  while 
the  precipices  of  the  Matterhorn,  the  ice-cliffs  of  Mont 
Blanc,  the  immense  crater  of  Etna  looked  into  at  night, 
with  weird  shapes  of  fire  appearing. to  crawl  groaning  and 
hissing  over  its  bottom,  and  the  sharp  pinnacle  of  the  peak 
of  Veleta,  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  of  Spain,  with  its  distant 
glimpses  of  the  crimson  towers  of  the  Alhambra  on  one  side 
and  the  blue  expanse  of  the  Mediterranean  on  the  other, 
are  treasures  of  the  memory  more  precious  than  gold — 
yet  not  less  pleasing  is  the  recollection  of  the  more  easily 
attained  but  quite  as  stimulant  joys  that  are  offered  by  the 
near-by  mountains  of  New  York  and  New  England. 

Here  is  a  world  of  pleasure  and  health  lying  open  to  any 
one  of  sturdy  heart  who  chooses  to  march  to  its  conquest 
with  a  strong  stick  and  a  stout  pair  of  shoes. 


Part  VII 
OUTDOOR    LIFE    FOR   GIRLS 


Chapter 

CAMPING    FOR    GIRLS 

IF  camping  is  good  for  boys,  why  not  for  girls?  Why 
should  not  they,  too,  inherit  the  sound  wholesomeness 
of  out-of-door  life  ?  That  they  do,  and  that  they  are  bene- 
fited perhaps  even  more  than  their  less  restricted  brothers, 
is  one  of  the  distinct  advances  in  the  last  dozen  years  of 
scientific  interest  in  the  welfare  of  our  young  people. 

There  is,  of  course,  at  the  outset  an  objection  to  face: 
that  girls  are  not  physically  adapted  for  " roughing  it,"  and 
that  the  very  ones  most  in  need  of  the  out-of-door  freedom 
are  those  whose  strength  is  not  sufficient  for  some  of  the 
tasks,  some  of  the  hardships  involved.  This  is  most  cer- 
tainly true,  and  it  is  to  meet  this  condition  that  the  many 
private  camps  for  girls  have  been  organized  during  the  last 
few  years.  In  these  camps  the  rough  work  is  done  by  ser- 
vants and  experienced  guides,  the  girls  are  shielded  from 
stress  of  weather,  and  their  days  are  filled  with  wholesome 
activities,  so  planned  as  gradually  to  build  up  both  the 
strength  and  the  skill  of  the  young  campers;  so  that  by  the 
end  of  the  season  they  are  not  only  fitted  more  thoroughly 
to  enjoy  the  out-of-doors,  but  armed  against  emergencies, 
made  self-reliant  and  resourceful,  and  brought  into  sym- 

24  367 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


pathy  with  that  healthful  simplicity  to  which  too  many  of 
our  modern  young  girls  are  strangers.  What  all  of  this 
means — how  it  is  actually  accomplished — may  perhaps  most 
easily  be  explained  by  a  description  of  the  life  in  a  typical 
girls'  camp,  drawn  from  the  actual  experience  of  the  writer. 

A  Day's  Program 

The  day  ordinarily  begins  at  six-forty-rive  with  reveille, 
for  time  is  marked  by  bugle-calls.  From  under  the  khaki 
tent-sides,  raised  so  that  the  cold  pure  air  may  sweep  un- 
obstructed across  the  cots  of  the  sleepers,  girls  tumble  out 
with  a  joyous  promptness  that  would  do  credit  to  a  military 
school.  Pajama-clad  figures  scamper  here  and  there  closing 
the  tents,  disappear,  and  in  five  minutes  again  emerge  in 
bathing-suits,  to  assemble  on  the  "campus,"  as  the  tent- 
surrounded  clearing  is  called,  for  the  morning  setting-up 
drill,  conducted  by  an  experienced  teacher  of  physical 
training.  After  five  minutes  of  snappy  exercise  there  is  a 
race  for  the  bathing-beach — :for  most  successful  camps  are 
near  some  body  of  water — where  there  is  a  swift  cold  plunge 
for  the  stronger  girls,  and  more  gentle  ablutions  from  the 
dock  for  those  for  whom  the  cold  shock  is  not  considered 
wise.  Facilities  for  bathing  are,  of  course,  in  every  tent, 
but  these  are  generally  scorned  for  the  superior  attractions 
of  the  lake.  A  half  hour  is  given  to  the  morning  toilet, 
and  the  breakfast  call  is  answered  by  a  group  of  rosy,  hungry 
girls,  in  the  comfortable  and  picturesque  camp  costume- 
bloomers  and  "middy"  blouse  of  khaki,  brown  stockings, 
and  tennis  shoes. 

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Breakfast  is  eaten  in  the  bungalow  or  on  its  wide  veranda. 
This  more  or  less  picturesque  building  faces  the  tent-circle, 
and  contains  the  dining-room,  serving-room,  and  kitchen, 
together  with  the  office  of  the  director  of  the  camp.  The 
dining-room  is  large  and  airy,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
screened  windows,  and  fitted  with  a  large  stone  fireplace, 
well-filled  bookshelves,  and  a  piano,  so  that  between  meals, 
when  the  folding  mission  tables  are  removed,  it  makes  a  de- 
lightful living-room  and  a  cozy  shelter  during  any  protracted 
spells  of  wet  weather.  The  wide  veranda  extends  around 
three  sides  of  the  building  and  is  partly  screened  in  for  an 
out-of-door  dining-room. 

Work  and  Play 

After  breakfast  a  half -hour  is  given  for  tent-work.  Each 
girl  is  expected  to  make  her  own  bed  and  keep  in  perfect 
order  her  quarter  of  the  tent — for  three  girls  and  one 
counsellor  ordinarily  occupy  each  tent.  Small  steamer- 
trunks  are  kept  under  the  cots,  and  for  immediate  necessities 
there  is  a  swinging-board  shelf  suspended  from  the  ridge-pole. 
There  is  a  friendly  rivalry  in  the  matter  of  neatness,  for  tent- 
work  is  followed  by  military  inspection  which  penetrates 
into  every  corner,  and  each  Saturday  the  camp  banner  is 
publicly  awarded  to  the  tent  having  the  best  record  for  the 
past  week. 

Tent-work  is  followed  by  a  gathering  at  the  bungalow  for 
the  morning  "sing."  A  counsellor  in  charge  of  music  leads 
at  the  piano,  while  any  of  the  girls  who  play  mandolins, 
guitars,  violins,  or  the  like,  make  up  the  camp  orchestra, 

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CAMPING    AND    SCOUTING 


There  are  many  original  camp  songs  and  calls,  contributed 
by  members  with  a  gift  for  making  jingles,  and  these  are 
practised  with  an  enthusiasm  that  reflects  the  camp  spirit. 
Singing  over,  the  girls  scatter  for  the  morning  occupations. 
A  tennis  tournament  or  basket-ball  practice  may  draw  them 
to  the  courts,  or  all  may  gather  for  a  class  in  handicrafts  held 
on  the  lake  shore  or  on  the  breezy  veranda.  Basketry, 
brass  or  leather  work,  stencilling,  embroidery,  photography, 
are  some  of  the  branches  offered,  and  each  girl  may  choose 
what  most  appeals  to  her.  The  unfortunate  ones  who  must 
make  up  school  or  college  work  in  the  summer  disappear  into 
the  grove  with  the  counsellors  in  charge  of  tutoring,  or  girls 
who  are  learning  to  row  or  paddle  may  go  on  the  lake  for  a 
lesson  at  this  time.  Perhaps  a  fishing  party  is  organized, 
or  a  group  of  girls  with  a  counsellor  start  for  a  two  or  three 
hour  horseback  ride.  At  eleven  -  thirty  the  bugle  sounds 
the  assembly,  and  that  means  bathing-hour.  The  beach  is 
patrolled  by  counsellors  in  boats,  and  there  is  always  an  in- 
structor in  correct  form  in  swimming.  Every  one  learns  to 
swim  before  the  season's  end,  for  beside  the  incentive  of  fun 
in  water  sports  for  those  who  are  expert,  use  of  the  canoes  is 
forbidden  to  any  one  who  cannot  make  at  least  three  hun- 
dred yards  in  case  of  emergency. 

The  Rest-hotir 

After  the  noon  dinner  there  follows  " rest-hour,"  a  peace- 
ful period  when,  with  writing  materials,  book,  or  merely  rug 
and  pillow,  every  one  goes  off  by  herself  for  a  little  breath  of 
quietness.  Here,  one  of  the  very  few  camp  rules  is  rigidly 

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enforced — the  quiet  of  "rest-hour"  must  be  observed.  Its 
ending,  signalized  by  a  bugle-call,  means  almost  absolute 
freedom.  On  a  cool,  breezy -day  a  paper-chase  may  be  or- 
ganized, leading  through  the  neighboring  woods  and  fields; 
or  there  may  be  a  tramp  to  a  hilltop  not  too  far  distant  to 
make  return  by  twilight  a  possibility.  In  the  latter  event, 
each  girl  carries  her  own  share  of  the  supper,  and  a  com- 
mittee is  appointed  to  attend  to  the  all-important  and  wholly 
delightful  task  of  preparing  the  picnic  meal.  If  an  out-of- 
door  play  is  in  preparation,  as  is  usually  true  at  some  time 
during  the  summer,  this  is  the  time  for  rehearsal.  The 
tennis  courts  are  always  in  demand,  and  occasionally  there 
is  a  field-day,  with  various  contests  including  both  skill  and 
fun. 

Taps 

The  supper  bugle  blows  at  six,  and  the  short  evening  passes 
all  too  quickly.  Sunset  on  the  lake,  a  camp-fire  with  songs 
and  stories,  dancing  and  games  in  the  bungalow,  or  hide- 
and-seek  in  the  elusive  shadows  of  the  grove,  fill  the  interval 
before  bedtime.  At  nine,  taps  sound,  the  lanterns  in  the 
tents  are  blown  out,  and  absolute  quiet  reigns.  This  "early- 
to-bed"  rule  may  at  first  seem  a  hardship  on  moonlight  sum- 
mer nights,  but  after  an  active  day  in  the  open,  she  who  does 
not  fall  asleep  before  she  has  had  time  to  grumble  is  rarely 
to  be  found. 

Variety  of  Amusements 

This  program  is  one  that  is  carried  out  daily,  with  slight 
variations,  of  course,  in  a  considerable  number  of  good  camps 

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every  summer  nowadays.  Of  course,  different  camps  have 
special  features,  varying  with  the  location.  In  some,  mainly 
those  in  the  mountain  regions,  tramping  is  the  major  in- 
terest, and  almost  every  day  means  some  new  point  visited. 
Others  make  a  feature  of  coaching  and  horseback  parties; 
still  others  rely  on  the  water  sports  chiefly,  and  have  camp 
crews,  rowing  and  paddling  contests,  and  the  like.  Those 
whose  situations,  while  they  may  be  as  healthful,  are  less 
picturesque,  depend  on  golf  or  tennis,  basket-ball,  hockey, 
or  field  sports,  for  the  chief  sources  of  interest  and  activity. 
But  nearly  all  of  the  best  camps  combine  the  various  occu- 
pations, and  the  ideal  camps — of  which  there  are  a  sur- 
prisingly large  number — offer  a  range  of  activities  wide 
enough  to  meet  the  needs  alike  of  the  energetic  and  the 
anaemic  girl,  of  the  girl  who  needs  an  outlet  for  her  vitality, 
and  the  girl  whose  interest  in  the  out-of-doors  must  be  won, 
and  whose  strength  gradually  made  equal  to  the  demands 
of  the  active  life.  And  it  is  this  variety  of  choice  which  gives 
the  organized  camp  so  large  a  superiority  over  the  family 
camp,  where,  because  the  scale  of  living  is  smaller  and  the 
individual  responsibility  greater,  the  bare  necessities  of  living 
in  an  unaccustomed  fashion  are  too  apt  to  share  with  loung- 
ing the  hours  of  daylight. 

Camping  Trips 

But  the  day  described  is  typical  of  only  one  part  of  camp 
life — that  part  spent  actually  in  camp.  There  are  always, 
in  addition,  a  number  of  trips  away  from  camp,  short  and 
easy  at  first,  but  growing  with  the  strength  of  the  girls  in 

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length  and  difficulty,  trips  in  which  the  girls  have  a  taste 
of  the  delights  of  really  "roughing  it,"  of  cooking  their  own 
meals  over  a  camp-fire,  and,  for  a  night  or  two,  sleeping 
rolled  in  blankets  out  under  the  stars.  On  such  trips  as  this 
the  girls  are  not  expected,  as  boys  would  be,  to  carry  their 
own  blanket  rolls  and  provisions.  These  go  in  wagons  or 
boats,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  are  at  hand  when  needed. 

Outfit 

By  way  of  illustration,  an  account  of  one  of  the  annual 
trips  taken  by  the  members  of  a  well-known  girls'  camp, 
may  be  of  interest.  Its  objective  point  is  the  top  of  a 
mountain  whose  foot  is  some  forty  miles  from  the  camp, 
and  five  days  are  taken  for  the  trip.  Both  counsellors  and 
girls  wear  the  camp  uniform  of  khaki  "middy"  blouse  and 
bloomers,  with  the  addition  of  short  khaki  skirts,  sombreros, 
and  thick-soled,  high  tramping-boots.  In  addition  to  this, 
each  has  a  pack  containing  a  sweater,  bathing-suit,  towel, 
comb,  tooth-brush,  extra  stockings,  and  warm  army  blanket, 
compactly  rolled  into  a  surprisingly  small  bundle  and 
strapped  into  a  rubber  poncho  which  is  slit  in  the  centre  so 
that  it  may  be  slipped  on  over  the  head  in  case  of  rain.  The 
provision  baskets  contain  baked  beans,  potted  meat,  bacon, 
coffee,  sugar,  condensed  milk,  and  such  things  as  cannot  be 
bought  of  farmers  along  the  way.  Eggs,  milk,  bread,  and 
butter,  and  generally  fruit,  are  provided  by  farmers  with 
whom  arrangements  have  previously  been  made;  in  this 
way  the  food  is  fresh,  and  the  amount  necessarily  carried 
much  less.  In  the  pails  are  packed  aluminum  drinking-cups 

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and  plates,  and  one  knife,  fork,  and  spoon  apiece,  and  a  few 
utensils  for  camp  cookery.  These,  with  a  couple  of  lanterns 
and  an  axe,  complete  the  outfit.  Supplies  and  packs  are 
stowed  under  the  seats  of  big  canopy-top  wagons,  which 


AT    LAST    WE    REACHED    THE     SUMMIT 


also  carry  the  girls  in  relays  so  that  undue  fatigue  is  guarded 
against.  Twenty  miles  a  day  is  the  required  distance,  and 
since  the  country  is  ideal,  this  gives  ample  time  for  a  good 
noon  rest.  The  guides  care  for  the  horses,  collect  firewood, 
carry  water,  and  the  like,  while  girls  and  counsellors  are  di- 
vided into  committees  who,  in  rotation,  cook  and  "wash 
up."  At  night  a  camp  is  made,  gypsy-fashion,  in  the  woods, 

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or  permission  is  gained  to  sleep  in  a  friendly  farmer's  field 
or  orchard.  On  more  than  one  occasion  a  loft  full  of  new- 
mown  hay  has  been  generously  offered,  but  ordinarily  the 
delight  of  sleeping  in  the  open  is  considered  the  crowning 
event  of  the  day.  And  how  one  does  sleep ! 

The  third  day  is  devoted  to  climbing  the  mountain. 
The  horses  and  wagons  are  now  left  behind  and  the  lunch 
divided  into  equal  parts  so  that  each  girl  carries  her  share. 
The  climb  takes  about  five  hours,  so  that,  with  an  early 
start  and  a  couple  of  hours  for  luncheon  and  "the  view,"  the 
party  reaches  its  camp  at  the  foot  by  twilight.  The  home- 
camp  is  reached  in  time  for  a  celebration  supper  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  fifth  day. 

This  is  the  longest  land  trip  taken  at  this  particular  camp, 
because  experience  has  shown  it  to  be  the  longest  which  can 
be  taken  without  fatigue  by  the  average  girl.  In  a  few 
camps  where  tramping  is  a  special  feature,  longer  walks  and 
more  ambitious  climbs  are  boasted  of,  but  these  should  be, 
and  generally  are,  restricted  to  the  exceptionally  strong  girls. 
Overdoing  is  possible  because  of  the  eager  interest  of  the 
young  campers,  but  in  well-conducted  camps  the  experience 
of  the  counsellors,  together  with  the  advice  of  the  resident 
physician  or  trained  nurse,  is  successful  in  restricting  the 
activities  to  the  strength  of  the,  perhaps,  too-ambitious  in- 
dividual. 

How  to  Choose  a  Camp 

"In  well-conducted  camps" :  there  is  an  important  phrase 
which  will,  perhaps,  bear  a  word  or  two  of  interpretation. 
"How  shall  I  choose  a  camp  for  my  daughter  ? "  is  a  question 

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CAMPING   FOR   GIRLS 


naturally  to  be  asked  by  one  not  familiar  with  the  subject. 
The  important  points  are,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  three : 
the  situation  of  the  camp,  its  size,  and  last,  but  by  no  means 
least,  the  make-up  of  the  camp  council,  as  the  group  of  di- 
rectors and  their  assistants  is  generally  called. 

In  the  first  place,  a  camp  for  girls  should  be  sufficiently 
far  from  any  town,  however  small,  sufficiently  removed 
from  the  beaten  track  of  tourists,  to  insure  privacy  and 
freedom  from  uninvited  guests;  though  there  should,  of 
course,  be  a  town  within  easy  reach  by  boat  or  wagon  in  case 
of  emergency.  It  is  obviously  important  that  no  girl  shall 
leave  camp,  however  safe  the  neighborhood,  without  a 
counsellor  as  chaperon,  and  accordingly  there  should  be 
enough  ground  in  the  camp  proper  to  give  fairly  wide  free- 
dom for  wandering  about  within  its  boundaries;  for  no 
group  of  people,  however  congenial,  can  live  restfully  in  too- 
restricted  quarters.  There  ought  to  be,  if  not  immediately 
at  hand,  at  least  within  short  walking  distance,  a  lake  or 
river  suitable  for  swimming.  This  adds  inestimably  to  the 
pleasure  and  comfort  of  the  summer,  for  porcelain  tubs  and 
tent  life  do  not  go  hand  in  hand!  But  under  no  ordinary 
conditions  should  this  body  of  water  be  expected  to  supply 
drinking-water  for  the  camp.  Definite  provisions  should 
be  made  for  this,  the  use  of  a  spring  or  deep  well  whose 
water  has  been  tested  being  the  safest  plan. 

By  the  size  of  the  camp,  the  number  of  members  rather 
than  the  extent  of  territory  was  meant,  though,  as  has  been 
said,  the  latter  is  a  feature  worth  consideration.  Member- 
ship in  a  camp  of  restricted  numbers  is  apt  to  prove  more 
beneficial  than  in  a  camp  of  larger  proportions,  for  at  least 

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one  very  excellent  reason.  Unless  a  large  camp  is  conducted 
with  rather  extraordinary  care,  the  weaker  members  will 
not  receive  sufficient  consideration.  Not  that  any  one 
should  be  pampered !  It  is  the  escape  from  exactly  that 
sort  of  thing  which  in  many  instances  makes  camp  life 
valuable.  But,  as  it  was  granted  in  the  beginning,  girls — 
average  girls — have  not  at  the  outset  the  physical  endurance 
for  too  strenuous  a  life,  though  they  have  often  a  nervous 
force  which  makes  them  eager  to  pursue  any  new  interest 
and  blinds  them  to  their  own  limitations.  They  must  be 
studied  individually  and  guided  with  considerable  care,  and 
it  is  easy  to  see  how,  in  a  group  of  say  fifty  girls,  all  en- 
thusiastic, the  spirit  of  one  might  carry  her  beyond  her 
strength,  the  overactivity  proving  quite  as  harmful  as  no 
activity  at  all. 

Counsellors 

And  this  leads  naturally  to  the  third  point — the  members 
of  the  camp  council,  for  not  only  its  character,  but  its  num- 
ber is  important.  There  should  be  at  least  an  average  of 
one  counsellor  to  every  three  or  four  girls,  to  act,  not  as  police- 
man, but  as  jolly  companion  as  well  as  tactful  adviser. 
Young  girls  are  easily  led  and  quick  to  appreciate  genuine 
and  unselfish  interest.  There  are,  of  course,  some  com- 
mercially organized  camps — mere  money-making  schemes — 
in  which  the  welfare  of  the  girls  is  of  secondary  importance, 
but,  fortunately,  these  are  few  and  easily  detected  by  a 
thorough  investigation,  not  only  of  references,  but  of  former 
patrons.  The  men  and  women  who  undertake  this  work 
are  usually  college  bred,  and  in  very  many  cases  trained 

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teachers  who,  through  experience,  have  a  sympathetic  un- 
derstanding of  young  people.  And  here  must  not  be  for- 
gotten one  member  of  the  camp,  who,  though  not  a  counsellor, 
is  important  to  everybody's  health  and  happiness — the 
cook!  Above  all,  he  must  be  really  skilful,  for  camp  fare 
is  simple  at  best,  but  if  it  is  well  and  daintily  served  no  one 
will  tire  of  its  necessary  plainness. 

It  has  been  taken  for  granted  that  a  resident  physician 
or  a  trained  nurse  of  experience  is  a  member  of  every  camp 
council  for  precaution's  sake,  though  the  wholesomeness  of 
the  life  generally  reduces  their  duties  to  the  application  of 
collodion  to  the  occasional  scratch,  or  of  a  cooling  lotion  to 
a  severe  case  of  sunburn !  The  long  day  in  the  open,  the  long 
cool  night's  refreshing  sleep,  plenty  of  plain,  wholesome 
food,  and  the  eager  interest  for  each  new  day's  adventure- 
surely  here  in  itself  is  a  prescription  beyond  any  doctor's  art. 

Advantages  of  the  Life 

Consider  for  a  moment  the  difference  between  such  a  sum- 
mer and  that  spent  by  the  average  young  girl  at  the  average 
summer  hotel.  Instead  of  nightly  dances,  exciting  and  ex- 
hausting; instead  of  constant  teas,  late  elaborate  dinners,  and 
confections  at  all  hours ;  instead  of  the  nerve-stretching  whirl 
of  social  life,  a  half-dozen  toilets  to  be  made  in  a  day,  and 
either  the  unnatural  responsibility  of  creating  her  own  po- 
sition, or  the  necessary  but  ungirlish  caution  in  the  meeting 
and  judging  of  strangers  which  leads  to  false  standards — 
early  hours  and  regular  nourishing  meals;  interests  centred 
in  the  out-of-doors,  not  of  veranda  flirtations,  but  of  games 

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CAMPING   FOR   GIRLS 


and  nature  study;  simplicity  and  perfect  comfort  of  dress; 
and  finally,  the  unselfishness  generated  by  that  intangible 
but  delightful  and  "catching"  thing  called  "camp  spirit "- 
the  spirit  of  community  interest,  fair  play,  obedience  to  the 
laws  of  consideration  for  others  and  of  playing  the  game  for 
the  game's  sake — good  sportsmanship.  It  is  worth  con- 
sidering, and  that,  more  and  more,  parents  are  beginning  to 
appreciate  this  fact  the  ever-increasing  number  of  successful 
camps  proves. 

The  life  is  within  the  grasp  of  almost  any  girl,  even  of 
moderate  means,  for  the  expenses  of  the  camping  season  are 
generally  to  be  estimated  within  two  hundred  dollars,  a  sum 
easily  spent  on  the  frocks  and  pretty  fripperies  required  for 
the  months  at  a  good  summer  resort.  The  camp  outfit,  on 
the  other  hand,  is  extremely  simple;  the  khaki  uniform  of 
blouse,  bloomers,  and  short  skirt,  white  skirts  and  blouses 
for  Sundays  or  the  occasional  "dress  affairs,"  shade  hat, 
sweater,  rain-coat  or  poncho,  tennis  and  walking  shoes,  a 
bathing-suit,  warm  bath-robe,  and  three  changes  of  plain 
underwear,  are  absolutely  all  the  requirements,  unless  the 
girl  plans  to  ride,  when  a  khaki  divided  skirt  must  be  added. 
Usually  each  girl  is  required  to  take  her  own  sheets,  pillow- 
cases, towels,  two  army  blankets,  and  a  rubber  blanket 
for  use  in  sleeping  out-of-doors.  Hammocks,  kodaks,  fishing- 
rods,  racquets,  steamer  rugs,  musical  instruments,  are  of 
course  welcome  though  unnecessary  additions.  And  the 
expenditure  for  this  out-of-door  summer  buys — what  ?  Clear 
eyes,  strong  and  flexible  muscles,  keen  interests,  keen  sym- 
pathies, self-reliance,  and  contentment — the  qualities  that 
go  to  make  a  normal,  healthy,  lovable  girl. 


Chapter  XXX 

A  CARAVAN   TRIP   IN   ENGLAND 

OUR  caravan  was  a  gaudy  wagon  of  bright  yellow  picked 
out  in  blue  and  red,  with  tiny  green   shutters  at  the 
little  windows.      Moreover,  the  front  door  was  decorated 
by  a  letter-box  as  well  as  a  brass  knocker,  so  we  felt  very 
superior  to  all  other  caravan-dwellers. 

Prince,  our  big  bay  horse,  stood  patiently  between  the 
shafts  while  his  owner  explained  to  us  the  intricacies  of  a 
cart-horse's  harness.  We  were  taking  no  man,  in  spite  of 
our  friends'  warnings  that  we  should  come  to  grief,  for  there 
were  few  who  could  view  with  equanimity  the  spectacle  of 
four  girls  setting  out  alone  on  a  caravan  trip  of  a  fortnight 
through  England. 

Starting  from  Bath 

When,  on  a  certain  bright  Wednesday  in  August,  we  left 
Bath,  the  shade  of  Jane  Austen,  which  pervades  the  quaint, 
quiet  old  city,  must  have  stood  aghast  at  the  sight  of  our 
lumbering  vehicle  swaying  through  the  narrow  streets. 
Certainly  the  inhabitants  did.  The  small  boys  followed  us 
in  the  hope  of  a  show,  and  pointed  to  our  little  yellow  dog, 
and  our  big  hoops  slung  on  behind,  as  proof  that  we  were 
travelling  performers. 

38* 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


We  put  on  a  chain-horse  to  climb  the  hills  by  which  Bath 
is  surrounded.  For  five  miles  the  road  wound  up  till  we  came 
at  last  to  the  top  of  the  Cotswolds  and  saw  Somerset  and 
Gloucestershire  lying  at  our  feet.  There  we  dismissed  the 
boy  with  the  extra  horse  ;  Prince  was  unharnessed  and 
given  a  nose-bag  and  a  pail  of  water  which  we  fetched  from 
the  nearest  farm.  Then  a  rug  was  spread  in  the  shade,  our 
blue  and  red  mugs  were  filled  with  cider,  and  we  fell  to  on 
bread  and  cheese  in  the  silence  that  comes  from  keen  hunger. 
Later,  with  every  muscle  relaxed,  we  drowsed  in  the  noon- 
day heat,  resting  easily  on  the  warm  grass. 

All  the  afternoon  we  marched,  with  occasional  halts  to  in- 
vestigate some  interesting  bits  of  antiquity.  Once  it  was  an 
old  oak  mentioned  as  a  boundary-mark  in  the  reign  of  King 
John,  and  now  grown  so  huge  that  it  is  a  miniature  wood. 
At  six  o'clock  we  came  to  Old  Sodbury,  fourteen  miles  from 
Bath,  and  there  we  found  an  hospitable  farmer  who  readily 
permitted  us  to  camp  in  his  field.  Then  began  the  real  work 
of  the  daya 

Making  Camp 

First,  Prince  was  unharnessed  and  fed,  after  which  he 
grazed  at  will  through  the  night.  Then  the  tent  hoops  were 
untied,  the  bath-tubs  lifted  from  the  rack  and  unpacked, 
the  fire  made,  the  tables  and  chairs  set  up  and  prepared  for 
supper,  and  the  food  cooked .  The  bath- tent  was  rigged  up, 
and  the  tubs  pumped  full  of  water.  For  this  tent,  two 
light,  wooden  hoops,  seven  feet  in  diameter,  were  furnished 
with  rings  to  which  was  hooked  a  straight  piece  of  chintz 
about  eight  feet  high;  a  rope  was  then  tied  to  a  nail  on 

384 


A   CARAVAN   TRIP 


the  outside  of  the  van,  wound  around  one  side  of  the  upper 
hoop,  fastened  to  the  nearest  tree  or  hedge  and  brought 
back  to  the  van  in  the  same  way,  so  that  it  formed  a  triangle 
on  which  the  tent  hung  securely.  The  lower  hoop  rested 
lightly  on  the  ground,  and  in  case  of  wind  could  be  steadied 
with  a  few  stones.  On  the  inside  of  the  curtain  were  large 
pockets  to  accommodate  towels,  etc.,  and  in  case  of  rain  a 
tarpaulin  could  be  drawn  across  the  top.  This  tent  could 
be  set  up  in  ten  minutes. 

The  dusk  fell  rapidly  and  our  camp-fire  glowed  pictu- 
resquely under  a  big  tree.  While  the  dishes  were  washed  and 
everything  put  away  for  the  night,  the  bath-tubs  were 
heating  on  the  fire,  and  then  came  what  was,  perhaps,  the 
most  delightful  experience  of  the  day.  To  sluice  off  in 
clean,  hot  water  all  the  dust  and  weariness  of  the  march, 
with  the  night  wind  stirring  the  branches  that  formed  our 
roof,  with  the  short,  thick  grass  for  a  carpet  and  the  moon 
for  a  candle,  is  an  experience  to  be  remembered.  Our 
lighted  van  looked  wonderfully  cozy  when  at  last  we  were 
ready  to  turn  in.  Two  slept  on  a  broad  shelf  below,  one 
on  a  ledge  above,  and  the  fourth  spread  her  mattress  on  the 
floor  and  lay  like  a  knight  in  effigy  with  Robert  at  her  feet. 
Beside  the  dog,  we  had  for  defence  a  spade  and  a  stout 
bludgeon,  which  unfortunately  we  never  had  occasion  to  use. 

Promptly  at  six  the  next  morning  we  were  up,  and  by 
eight  had  struck  camp.  No  part  of  the  day  was  more 
delightful  than  the  setting -out  in  the  cool  of  the  morn- 
ing on  an  unknown  road  with  all  our  adventures  before  us. 

That  day  we  went  through  Berkeley  and  saw  the  castle, 
once  a  royal  palace  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  and  still  filled  with 

385 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


treasures  brought  her  from  the  four  corners  of  the  earth  by 
that  glorious  band  of  adventurers  whose  names  stand  out  in 
a  golden  cluster.  Berkeley's  chief  interest  lies  in  its  associa- 
tion with  the  murdered  King  Edward  II.,  and  it  was  good  to 
turn  from  the  grim  castle  to  the  open  road  and  travel  gayly 
along  to  Cirencester,  the  ancient  Roman  camp.  From  there 
the  road  runs  straight  and  broad  to  Gloucester — 

"  For  the  Roman  wrought  as  a  Roman  ought 
A  street  for  the  cars  of  kings." 

The  keen  wind  swept  across  the  uplands,  and  we  shelter 
for  lunch  under  a  thatched  haystack  fifteen  feet  high.  That 
night  we  camped  in  the  fields  of  the  "Golden  Heart,"  and  a 
new  moon  rose  over  the  hill  and  poised  above  our  valley. 

Sunday  we  came  to  Gloucester — creating  great  excitement 
in  the  quiet  streets — and  went  to  afternoon  service  in  the 
Cathedral.  The  next  day  we  passed  through  Tewkesbury. 
As  the  girl  in  charge  of  the  van  walked  by  Prince's  head 
through  High  Street,  she  forgot  her  responsibilities,  and  the 
van  crashed  into  a  large  glass  lantern  which  overhung  the 
road.  A  painful  scene  ensued,  during  which  the  culprit  in- 
sisted that  the  sign  had  no  business  to  be  there,  and  that  it 
was  not  worth  more  than  a  shilling,  anyway.  But  gypsies 
have  no  rights,  and  public  opinion  extracted  five  shillings 
from  the  offender,  who  left  Tewkesbury  feeling  that,  doubt- 
less, it  had  deserved  all  its  misfortunes. 

A  Strenuous  Life 

Up  to  this  time  the  weather  had  been  fairly  cool,  but 
during  the  last  three  days  of  that  week  the  thermometer 

386 


A   CARAVAN   TRIP 


stood  at  95°  in  the  shade.  Moreover,  we  were  now  in  a  hilly 
country,  where  it  was  often  impossible  to  procure  chain- 
horses.  Up  those  hills  we  pushed  the  caravan — which 
weighed  over  a  ton  and  a  half — stopping  every  few  yards  to 
rest.  One  to  each  wheel  was  how  we  did  it,  all  grasping  the 
spokes  firmly,  and,  at  the  word,  with  a  great  heave  the 
wheels  were  started  and  we  ran  alongside  pushing,  stum- 
bling, panting,  choking  in  the  dust,  cracking  the  whip,  and 
yelling  encouragement  to  the  horse  till  he  stopped  exhausted, 
when  the  block  was  slipped  in  place  and  we  fell  by  the  road- 
side laughing  and  gasping  till  the  call  "To  your  tents,  O 
Israel!"  brought  us  once  more  to  our  posts.  With  broad 
hats  pulled  over  our  eyes,  and  sleeves  rolled  over  the  elbow, 
we  trudged  along  in  the  shadow  of  the  van,  three  miles  an 
hour  up  hill  and  down,  with  frequent  stops  at  the  inns,  where 
a  smiling  landlord  would  bring  us  four  great  mugs  of  spark- 
ling cider,  which  we  would  drink,  sitting  on  our  little  shelf, 
while  the  country  folk  gazed  at  our  van,  and  the  automobiles 
whirled  past  filled  with  people  who  laughed  and  stared,  and 
exclaimed  "Gypsies!"  as  they  flashed  by.  How  we  looked 
for  those  inns  and  how  eagerly  we  inquired  for  them  ofrevery 
passer-by.  The  place  for  a  public  is  at  the  top  of  a  hill— 
we  were  all  agreed  on  that;  the  next  best  place  is  at  the 
foot — never  should  one  stand  on  a  level  stretch  where  the 
van  rolls  easily  along  and  the  thirsty  one  must  spring  off, 
rush  in,  hastily  drink  something,  and  run  after  the  van  in 
a  choking  cloud  of  dust.  Even  our  noonday  halts  were 
often  curtailed  in  those  days,  since  it  is  possible  to  march 
under  a  burning  sun,  while  resting  in  it  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. From  ten  to  four  the  air  vibrated  with  heat,  and 

387 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Prince  was  white  where  his  harness  touched  him,  but  as  soon 
as  the  sun  declined  the  air  grew  chill  and  damp,  and  by 
seven  o'clock  we  were  apt  to  shiver  and  pull  on  overcoats. 
The  nights  were  nearly  always  cold,  so  that  we  were  glad  of 
rugs  over  our  sleeping-bags,  and  it  was  frosty  enough  fetching 
water  across  the  fields  in  the  early  morning. 

Going  through  Worcestershire — and  a  lovely,  though  hilly, 
country  we  found  it  —  what  we  called  a  steep  climb  the 
country  folk  called  "a  bit  of  a  bank,"  for  the  speech  varies 
in  each  county  in  a  surprising  way.  "That  don't  belong  to 
we;  us  hasn't  no  jug  like  she,"  said  a  Somerset  farmer  to  us 
when  the  ownership  of  a  pitcher  was  discussed.  That  same 
day  we  fell  in  with  numberless  tramps  going  to  the  hop- 
picking;  dreadful-looking  creatures,  but  harmless  enough, 
passing  us  with  a  nod  of  fellowship. 

When  we  had  gone  through  the  quaint  market-town  of 
Ledbury  we  found  ourselves  in  Herefordshire  where  the  hop- 
grinders  stand  out  weirdly  against  the  sky,  and  all  the  cows 
are  red  and  white.  The  sheep  were  no  more  the  small, 
black-faced  variety  we  had  seen  when  we  started,  but  big, 
stolid  creatures,  following  meekly  the  shepherd  who  walked 
at  their  head.  In  the  north  the  men  drive  the  sheep,  chivy- 
ing them  with  dog  and  stick,  but  in  the  soft  southland  they 
pace  slowly  in  front  of  their  flocks,  leading  them  to  pasture. 

Sight-seeing 

On  Wednesday  we  reached  Hereford,  where  we  rowed  up- 
stream after  seeing  the  Cathedral,  and  revelled  in  the  cool 
river  banks  after  the  dusty  highways.  The  next  day  we 

388 


A   CARAVAN   TRIP 


paid  toll  at  Kyrle  Bridge  after  leaving  Ross,  and  went  along 
the  bank  of  the  Wye,  which  runs  between  beautifully  wooded 
hills.  On  Friday  we  reached  Monmouth  and,  leaving  Prince 
to  rest  in  a  field,  took  the  train  to  Raglan,  one  of  the  finest 
ruins  in  England.  It  was  here  that  Charles  came  with 
great  secrecy  one  night  to  confer  with  the  ancient  Marquis, 
whose  devotion  to  his  family  was  unbounded.  A  magnificent 
stone  staircase  leads  to  his  apartment,  from  which  he  could 
look  on  many  miles  of  the  fair  country  he  had  lost.  The 
same  day  we  visited  Goodrich  Castle,  an  exquisite  little  ruin 
dating  from  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  It  contains  a  verita- 
ble gem  of  a  Norman  window,  and  its  buttery-hatch  is  almost 
unique  in  England. 

Saturday  dawned  bright  and  hot.  We  were  all  rather 
tired  after  the  hard  week  and  the  fierce  heat,  but  we  started 
in  good  time,  knowing  we  should  rest  the  next  day. 

After  a  wind  down  a  long  incline,  it  was  pleasant  to  ride 
along  the  flat,  shady  road  till  Tin  tern  Abbey  came  in  sight. 
By  then  it  was  one  o'clock  and  the  sun  was  fierce.  We 
dragged  our  things  up  a  grassy  slope  above  the  Abbey,  and 
rested  in  the  shade  till  a  constable  informed  us  we  were 
liable  to  arrest  as  vagrants  and  must  move  on.  So  we 
harnessed  up  and  departed  after  a  visit  to  what  is  perhaps 
the  most  beautiful  abbey  in  England.  Beyond  Tin  tern 
there  is  a  three-mile  hill,  and,  as  no  chain-horse  was  pro- 
curable, we  pushed  the  van  till  we  were  well  tired.  Fort- 
unately the  road  was  shaded,  and  the  view  below  was 
enough  to  compensate  us  for  much  hard  work.  Across  the 
valley  rose  magnificently  timbered  hills,  while  to  the  right, 
beyond  rolling  meadows,  the  Severn  glistened  like  a  blue 

389 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


ribbon  in  the  sunlight;  and  when  we  saw  the  Severn  we 
cried  aloud,  as  Xenophon's  soldiers  of  old,  that  we  had  at 
last  reached  that  which  we  had  come  so  far  to  see. 

Over  the  cruel  hill,  joyfully  we  climbed  aboard,  and 
lounged  on  the  shelf  as  we  ate  a  large,  cool  melon.  At  six 
we  reached  Chepstowe  and  stopped  to  see  the  Castle.  On  two 
sides  it  rises  in  a  sheer  wall  from  the  river,  and  is  remarkable 
for  its  great  strength.  The  walls  are  of  extraordinary  thick- 
ness, so  that  one  can  well  believe  the  story  that  Cromwell 
besieged  it  in  vain  until  a  girl,  whose  lover  was  among  the 
Roundhead  army,  waved  her  kerchief  from  the  weakest  spot. 

Rest  in  a  Turnpike  House 

On  through  the  town  we  went,  down  a  terrible  hill,  where 
Prince's  hoofs  clattered  on  the  cobbles  and  the  van  lurched 
like  a  ship  at  sea.  When  we  reached  the  bridge  at  the  end 
of  the  town  we  "held  a  council,  standing  beside  the  river- 
gate."  No  farm,  they  told  us,  was  to  be  found  for  two 
miles;  a  long,  steep  hill  rose  before  us  and  no  chain-horse 
could  be  hired.  The  loafers  on  the  bridge  grinned  as  we 
halted  despondently;  it  was  nearly  seven  o'clock.  Prince's 
head  was  drooping  pitifully  and  we  were  all  worn  out. 
However,  there  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  to  go  on.  We 
bent  to  the  wheels  and  pushed  wearily  up  the  hill ;  the  even- 
ing was  misty,  and  the  prospect  of  a  late  camp,  with  all  the 
work  to  be  done  in  the  dark,  was  not  encouraging.  Breath- 
less and  footsore  we  stumbled  on  for  half  a  mile,  and  then— 
around  a  bend  in  the  hill — we  saw  our  port.  A  little  turn- 
pike house  stood  at  the  corner,  eloquent  of  comfort  from 

390 


A   CARAVAN   TRIP 


its  vine-covered  porch  to  its  lighted  windows,  which  shone 
cozily  through  the  dusk.  In  the  doorway  sat  a  dear  old  lady, 
who  looked  with  amazement  on  the  dusty  travellers  and 
gave  a  ready  assent  to  our  request  for  the  use  of  her  field. 
She  and  her  husband  came  to  show  us  the  way,  and  when  we 
had  squeezed  through  the  gate  we  cheered  for  joy  as  we  saw 
our  resting-place.  Behind  a  mighty  hedge  which  screened 
us  from  the  road  the  field  rolled  away  over  low  hills,  on  one 
of  which  stood  a  tower  used  by  Cromwell  to  grind  his  powder 
during  the  siege  of  Chepstowe.  There  were  big,  shady  trees 
and  convenient  stones  for  the  fire;  there  was  a  pile  of  fire- 
wood in  one  corner  and,  best  of  all,  the  pump  was  close  at 
hand.  What  this  meant  can  be  appreciated  by  those  who 
have  been  forced  to  camp  sometimes  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  water.  Joyfully  we  unharnessed,  hurried  through  the 
work,  and  ate  until  the  pans  were  empty.  Before  turning  in 
we  walked  over  the  hill  to  see  the  tower  in  the  moonlight 
and  fancy  the  figure  of  the  great  Protector  behind  every 
shadow. 

The  next  day  we  lay  under  the  trees  till  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon.  Prince  browsed  happily  in  the  long,  thick  grass 
in  company  with  various  ponies  and  donkeys,  while  Robert 
drove  away  all  strange  creatures  with  ostentatious  valor, 
and  stretched  out  in  the  shade  to  dream  of  rabbits  in  the 
hedge. 

After  Two  Hundred  Miles 

On  Monday  we  put  the  van  on  a  railway- truck  and  crossed 
the  Severn  from  Lidney  to  Berkeley.  There  we  saw  friends 
who  greeted  us  with  amazement  at  sight  of  our  tanned  faces 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


and  tattered  boots.  We  had  covered  over  two  hundred 
miles,  and  our  outfit  showed  signs  of  wear.  Tuesday  we 
took  the  homeward  road,  and,  after  a  march  of  twenty  miles, 
stopped  half-way  down  the  hill  for  our  last  camp,  the  lights 
of  Bath  shining  below. 

So  we  returned  safely  after  a  fortnight  which  none  of  us 
will  ever  forget.  It  would  fill  a  volume  to  tell  of  all  the 
quaint  sights  we  saw,  of  the  winding  roads  that  led  to  ever 
new  and  unexpected  places,  of  the  cool  gardens  we  passed, 
where  the  hollyhocks  leaned  over  the  wall  to  look  with  lovely, 
laughing  faces  at  the  dusty  wayfarers,  and,  above  all,  of  the 
kindnesses  shown  us. 

The  cost  of  the  expedition?  Twenty  dollars  a  week  for 
horse  and  van,  making  ten  dollars  apiece  for  us  for  the  fort- 
night. Then  there  was  the  food,  some  of  which  we  took 
with  us,  but  most  of  which  we  bought  on  the  road,  that 
came  to  eight  or  ten  dollars  apiece,  so  the  fortnight's  excur- 
sion cost  us  each  about  twenty  dollars,  and  we  thought  it 
cheap  at  that.  The  real  joy  of  the  trip  can  be  measured 
only  by  those  who  have  taken  the  trail  themselves,  done 
their  own  work,  planned  their  own  route,  and  surmounted 
their  own  difficulties. 

From  Roman  roads  to  cannon  taken  in  a  modern  sea- 
fight,  we  had  seen  the  history  of  England  written  clear  in 
earth  and  stone  and  wood.  One  remembers  the  towns  by 
name,  but  the  best  memories  are  of  the  shady  inns  where 
the  women  set  out  water  for  our  thirsty  little  dog;  of  the 
burly  carters  we  met  as  far  north  as  Hereford,  who  hailed  us 
as  fellow-travellers  from  the  south  country;  and  of  flaxen- 
haired  children  who  flitted  shyly 'behind  the  van  in  the  dusk 

392 


A   CARAVAN   TRIP 


and  crept  in  like  shadows  to  watch  the  camp-fire,  bearing 
gifts  from  their  mothers. 

For  all  who  love  the  Long  Trail,  who  are  not  afraid  of 
hard  work  and  unknown  paths,  there  is  but  one  word— 

"  Send  the  road  is  clear  before  you  when  the  old  spring-fret  comes 

o'er  you, 
And  the  Red  Gods  call  for  you." 


INDEX 


A  B  C  of  boats,  280,  281. 
Adirondacks,  camping  in  the,  8,  9. 
Anchorage,  282. 
Army  kitchen,  79-81. 
Army  tent,  second-hand,  49 ;   draw- 
backs to,  6 1. 
Artificial  bait,  94,  106. 

BADEN  -  POWELL,  Sir,  and  Boy 
Scouts,  302,  311. 

Bailer,  boat,  102. 

Bait,  worms,  94,  95,  96,  98,  102,  103, 
104;  seine  for  live,  98-100;  boat, 
100,  101;  for  large  fish,  102; 
frogs,  104;  crabs,  104;  dobsons, 
104;  grubs,  105;  minnows,  105; 
crickets,  106;  artificial,  106; 
darning-needles,  107. 

Bait,  bag,  94;  net,  101. 

Bass-fishing  of  the   Delaware,    9. 

Batter  cakes,  222. 

Beard,  Dan,  Boy  Pioneers,  311,  313. 

Beef,  capsules,  209;   frizzled,  223. 

Beverages,  213. 

Bill  of  fare,  the,  209-227. 

Birds,  familiar,  326-328. 

Biscuits,  hot,  212. 

Black  bass,  notes  on,  173,  174. 

Blanket-rolls,  261. 

Blankets,  rented,   165. 

Bleeding,  to  control,  287;  from  nose, 
289. 

Boats,  handling,  280-286;  ABC 
of,  280,  281;  masts  and  rigging, 
282;  anchorage,  282,  283;  power, 
284;  camp  yachts,  285;  nautical 
schools,  285,  286, 


Bones,  fractured,  289;  dislocated, 
290;  treatment,  290,  291. 

Book  of  Camping  and  Woodcraft,  The, 
Horace  Kephart,  ^69,  170,  207. 

Boys'  camps,  organized,  183-188; 
origin,  187;  objects  of,  187,  188; 
how  to  conduct,  189-208;  trained 
directors,  189-193;  sanitation, 
193,  197;  dietetics,  193;  location, 
194;  surroundings,  195-197; 
privacy,  198;  tents,  200-208. 

Boy  Scouts  of  England,  301—310; 
organizing,  301-302;  oath,  303; 
law,  303 ;  patrols  and  troops,  305 ; 
tests,  305-307;  badges,  308-310; 
of  America,  311  -319;  head- 
quarters, 312-314;  tests,  314- 
316;  the  guide,  316-319. 

Bread,  unleavened,  223. 

Brook  trout,  notes  on,  172. 

Brush   houses,  30-35;  a  "lean-to," 

34,  35- 

Burbot,  the,  notes  on,  176,  177. 
Burns,  treatment,  289. 

CAMP,  how  to  fit  out,  65-74;  bed 
of  boughs,  65,  68;  canvas  cot,  65; 
folding-cot,  66,  67;  hammocks, 
67,  68;  tables  and  benches,  68,  69, 
70,  226;  chairs,  69;  equipment, 
71;  lockers  and  mess-kits,  71,  72; 
a  carryall,  73,  74;  fires,  75-81; 
simple  range,  75;  stone  stove,  75, 
76;  army  kitchen,  79-81;  cook- 
ing, 8 1-86;  sanitation,  228-233; 
policing,  232;  a  temporary,  244; 
stoves,  252,  253;  yacht,  285. 


395 


CAMPING   AND   SCOUTING 


Camp  Fires  in  the  Wilderness,  C.  W. 
Burt,  171  n. 

Camp-site,  choosing,  39,  40;  per- 
sonal outfit,  39,  40;  camps  on 
lakes,  41;  river  cruising,  44-46; 
cooking  utensils,  46,  47;  provi- 
sion supply,  47,  48. 

Camper's  responsibility,  4;  warn- 
ings for,  1 70, 1 7 1 ;  information  for, 
171. 

Camping,  near  home,  3-4;  in 
Maine,  4,  6,  10,  168,  169,  170,  171; 
in  Canada,  8,  10;  in  New  York, 
8,  9,  1 68,  169,  170,  171;  West 
and  South,  9,  10;  equipment,  71; 
outfitters,  165,  166;  bag,  166, 
167;  for  girls,  367-381;  a  day's 
program,  368,  369;  work  and 
play,  369,  370;  rest  hour,  370, 
371;  taps,  372;  amusements, 
372>  373;  trips,  373.  374;  outfit, 
374-376;  how  to  choose  a  camp, 
376-378;  counsellors,  378-380; 
advantages  of  the  life,  380-381. 

Canned  goods,  211,  212. 

Canoe,  how  to  use,  234-243;  cost, 
235;  repairing,  237;  to  paddle, 
237—239;  equipment,  239;  load- 
ing, 240,  241;  rough  water,  242, 
243;  carrying,  245. 

Canoe  trips,  food  for,  210. 

Canopy,   for  camping-tent,    57,    58. 

Caravan  trip  in  England,  382-393; 
starting  from  Bath,  382;  making 
camp,  384—386;  strenuous  life, 
386-388;  sight-seeing,  388-393. 

"Carron  Oil"  for  burns,  289. 

Carry-all,  a,  73,  74. 

Casting  line  or  leader,  93. 

Cecil,  Lord  Edward,  and  Boy 
Scouts,  302. 

Citronella,  oil  of,  for  insects,  169, 
170. 

Clark,  W.  P.,  sign  language,  346. 

Clouds,  varieties,  321,  323,  324. 

Cooking,  utensils,  46,  47;  bill  of 
fare,  209-227;  pointers,  214,  215; 
practical  hints,  2  2  5-2  2  7 ;  arrange- 
ment of  dishes,  248. 

Cooks,  cleanliness,  230. 


Cot,  of  boughs,  65,  68;    canvas,  65; 

folding,  66,  67. 
Crabs  as  bait,  104. 
Crickets  as  bait,  106. 
Cruising,  river,  44-46. 

DARNING-NEEDLES  as  bait,  107. 

Dishes,  wooden,  264. 

Ditty-bay,  canvas,  40,    166,   167. 

Dobsons  as  bait,  104. 

Drowning,   291,   292;    artificial  r< 

piration,  292. 
Dudley,    Sumner    F.,    boys'    cam] 

187. 
Dux-bax,  39,  166. 

EEL-POT,  how  made,   110-113. 
Eggs,  cooking,  219,  223. 
Electric  shock,  295. 
Elements  of  Navigation,  W.  J.  Hen- 
derson, 280  n. 

FAMILY  camps,  184,  185. 

Feet,  care  of,  258,  259. 

Fires,  forest,  170,  171;  building,  248, 
249,  250,  251;  to  light,  251. 

Firewood,  246-250. 

Fishing  tackle,  89-97;  rods,  91,  92; 
lines,  92;  hooks,  92,  93;  reels, 
93;  casting  -  line,  93;  floats,  93, 
101;  sinkers,  93,  102;  bait-bag, 
93,  94;  landing-net,  94;  flies,  94; 
bait-net,  101;  repairing,  143—164. 

Fish,  lines,  92;  bait,  95,  96,  98,  102- 
107;  general  notes  on,  172-180; 
cooking,  217-218. 

Flapjacks,   212. 

Flies,  danger  of,  231. 

Floats,  93,  1 01. 

Flowers,  knowledge  of,  328. 

Fly-fishing,  how  to  learn,  117-138; 
first  position,  120-122;  back 
cast,  122-125;  forward  cast,  125- 
128;  the  stride,  128-131;  a  car- 
dinal principle,  131-133;  the 
manipulation  of  the  fly,  133-136; 
practical  conclusion,  136-138. 

Fly,  for  camping-tent,  57,  58. 

Fly-rods  and  Fly-tackle,  H.  P.  Wells, 
91  n. 


396 


INDEX 


Forest  fires,  rules  and  regulations  to 

prevent,   170,   171. 
Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission, 

warnings  for  campers,  170,  171. 
Frogs  as  bait,  104. 

GAMES,  camp  or  scouting,  266-278; 
war  game  No.  i,  266;  besieged 
city,  267;  attacking  party,  268; 
ensai-tai  parties,  269;  canoe  tag, 
270;  capturing  the  flag,  272;  In- 
dian games  272;  map-making, 
272;  feet  and  inches,  273;  help- 
fulness and  courtesy,  273;  shoot- 
ing the  chute,  275,  276;  seeing 
and  remembering,  277;  Up,  Jen- 
kins! 277;  identification,  278; 
I  spy,  279;  wind  ball,  279. 

Grubs  as  bait,  105. 

Guides,  6,   167-169. 

Guide  to  Wild  Flowers,  Mrs.  Caroline 
A.  Creevey,  328  n. 

HAM  and  eggs,  218. 

Hammock,  canvas,  67,  68. 

Hard  tack,  212. 

Hash,  224. 

Hatchets,  265. 

Health  hints,  296,  297. 

Hiking,  254-265 ;  distance  to  march, 
255;  clothing,  256-258;  care  of 
feet,  258,  259;  blankets,  259,  260; 
canteen,  260;  beds,  260;  blan- 
ket-rolls, 261;  cooking  articles, 
262;  pointers,  262-265. 

Hints  for  campers  and  scouts,  329— 
34i- 

Hooks,  fish,  92,  93. 

Hoop  drop-net,  how  made,   114. 

House-tent,  a,  58-61. 

Huts,  tree,  18-30. 

INDIAN,  wigwam,  11-14;    tepee,  12, 

14-17;   sign  language,  343-347. 
Insect  pests,  "dope"  for,  169,   170. 

KHAKI,  military,  39,  166. 
Kitchen,  army,  79-81. 


LAKES,  camps  on,  41,  42. 


Lake  trout,  notes  on,  172,  173. 

Landing-net,  94. 

Landsman,  The,  E.  L.  Roff,  280. 

Latrines,  230,  231. 

Leader  or  casting-line,  93. 

Lines,  fish,  92. 

Lockers,  71,  72. 

MAINE,  camping  in,  4,  6;  trout- 
fishing  in,  8. 

Masts  and  rigging,  282. 

Meat,  cooked,  218. 

Medical  hints,  295,  296. 

Mess-kits,  71,  72. 

Minnows  as  bait,  105. 

Morse  alphabet,  312. 

Mosquitoes,  preparations  for,  169, 
170;  transmitters  of  malaria,  197, 
231;  malarial  and  non-malarial, 
198;  nets,  264,  265. 

Mountain-climbing,  351-364;  White 
Mountains,  351;  Adirondack  ad- 
venture, 353-355;  Mount  Wash- 
ington, 356;  Mount  Adams,  356; 
Mount  Tacoma,  357-362. 

Mush,  222. 

Mushrooms,  221. 

Muskallunge,  notes  on,   174,   175. 

NAUTICAL  schools,  285,  286. 

Navigation  Simplified,  C.  E.  Mc- 
Arthur,  280  n. 

Nessmuk,  camping  range,  75;  knap- 
sack, 167;  tar-oil  preparation  for 
insect  pests,  169,  170. 

Net,  a  seine,  98-100. 

OBSERVATION,  power  of,  320—322. 
Ouananiche  fishing,   8,    166;    notes 

on,  177-180. 

Outdoor  Book  for  Boys,  Harper's,  2  Sow. 
Outfit,  personal,  39,  40,  166,  167. 
Outfitters,  camping,  165,  166. 

PENNYROYAL,  oil  of,  for  insect  pests, 

169. 

Personal  outfit  for  campers,  39,  40. 
Poisoning,  293,  294,  295. 
Policing  camp,  232. 
Poncho,  259,  260,  261. 


397 


CAMPING   AND    SCOUTING 


Pork  and  beans,  224. 
Power  boats,  284. 
Proverbs,  weather,  324—326. 
Provision  supply,  47,  48. 
Pudding,  corn-starch,  225. 

REELS,  93. 

Repairs,    143—164;    first   principles, 

144—146;  the  invisible  knot,  146- 

149. 
Rods,  fishing,  91,  92. 

SANITATION,  camp,  228-233.. 

Scap-net,  how  made,  113,  114. 

Seton,  Ernest  Thompson,  wood- 
craft Indians,  311. 

Shooting  the  chute,  196,  275;  plan 
of  chute,  276. 

Sibley  tents,  207—208. 


Signalling,  336,  337,  347. 
Signal  Service,  United  S 


States,  322, 


323- 


Sign  language,  Indian,  343~347- 

Sinkers,  93,  102. 

Slapjacks,  222,  223. 

Sleeping  in  barns,  262. 

Sleep,  loss  of,  264. 

Soups,  215-217. 

Sprains,   291. 

"Sterzo,"  beef  capsules,  209. 

Stove,  camp,  75,  76,  252,  253;  stone, 

75,  76. 
Sunstroke,  295. 

TENT,  second-hand  army,  49,  61; 
of  medium  size,  49-54;  a  large 
camping,  54—57;  flies  and  cano- 
pies, 57,  58,  202;  a  house,  58-61; 
the  new,  61-64;  placing,  200,  201; 
material,  202 ;  to  erect,  203  ;  poles, 
203,  204;  floors,  204,  206;  Sibley, 
207,  208;  hygiene,  233. 

Tents,  and  tent  -  making,  49-64 ; 
rented,  165. 


Tepee,  Indian,  12;  square,  14,  15; 
ridge-pole,  15-17;  to  erect,  206, 
207. 

Tourniquet,  287. 

Trap,  for  small  fish,  107-109;  for 
water- turtle,  109. 

Trees,  and  lightning,  199,  201;  tree 
huts,  18-30;  a  low  twin-tree  hut, 
18—24;  a  high  twin-tree  hut,  24- 
26;  a  single-tree  hut,  28,  29;  a 
low  single-tree  hut,  29,  30;  knowl- 
edge of,  328;  height  of,  330. 

Trees  of  Eastern  North  America, 
Romeyn  Beck  Hough,  328  n. 

Trout  -  fishing,  in  New  England 
States,  8;  in  Pike  County,  9. 

UNCONSCIOUSNESS,  293-295. 
Unpacking,  245,  246. 

VEGETABLES,  cooking,  219—221. 

WATER,  drinking,  263,  264. 

Weather,  signals,  322,  323;  vane, 
323;  proverbs,  324-326. 

Weights  and  measures,  table  of,  226. 

Welsh  rarebit,  224. 

Wigwagging,  347. 

Wigwams,  11-14,  2°6,  207. 

Wilderness  camping,  essentials,  48, 
165;  outfitting  points,  165,  166; 
personal  belongings,  166,  167; 
guides,  167;  preparations  for  in- 
sect pests,  169,  170;  warnings, 
170,  171. 

Woodcraft,  Nessmuk,  169. 

Worms,  "scoured,"  94;  as  bait,  95, 
96,  98,  102,  103,  104. 

Wounds,  treating,  287,  288;  to  con- 
trol bleeding,  287;  dressing,  288, 
289. 

YEAST,  226. 

Yellow  perch,  notes  on,  175,  176. 


THE    END 


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